Rusted On Cat Bolts

Whiplash Willy · 01-05-2009, 06:03 AM

I am trying to replace my Cat Converter, but the bolts are rusted on pretty bad. I have tried PB blaster and an air impact gun, but all that has done is rounded the bolts. Any ideas on how I can get these off without damaging anything?

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claudebadly · 01-05-2009, 06:25 AM

cut the bolts off. be carefull and take your time

GorgeRunner · 01-05-2009, 07:00 AM

For stubborn nuts, I like a torch first, maybe a nut splitter if you can get it in there second, cutting wheel third.

rvsmichael · 01-05-2009, 07:03 AM

go to auto parts store and get a stripped bolt or nut remover socket they work well the new type

91TPU · 01-05-2009, 07:25 AM

i find the best way is to cut them off, and then drill the remaining out and put in your own hardware.

the_ocho · 01-05-2009, 08:15 AM

FTW

okie81 · 01-05-2009, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvsmichael

go to auto parts store and get a stripped bolt or nut remover socket they work well the new type

...X2 Those nut-remover kits are invaluable and handy to have around

ozzydg55 · 01-05-2009, 10:39 AM

I just put a new cat on about 6 months ago just cut them with a saws-all on one side and they pop right out

89whitetoyota · 01-05-2009, 11:58 AM

I would sawsall it off and just put a piece of straight pipe in the place and weld, that way, some one wont be tempted to walk of with your new like they did mine a month ago, if your truck is 4x4, it is an easy targer for cat theives.

Jay351 · 01-05-2009, 12:01 PM

Heat it up till its real hot, then douse it in pb blaster or liquid wrench. If it still does not come off, its time to cut it off..

TNRabbit · 01-05-2009, 12:10 PM

Check this out:

http://www.yotatech.com/f116/o2-sens...-rusted-92409/

Jay351 · 01-05-2009, 12:19 PM

I have the same problem TN! Mine look like two gobs of metal... I think my only option is to cut and tap....

Squiddy · 01-05-2009, 12:34 PM

IMHO use a grinder - fast and clean if careful. Bolts should then come out easy. Don't waste your time with nut splitters, etc. Sawsall is good but run thru blades fast.

82yota · 01-05-2009, 12:45 PM

Cut the bolts off with an angle grinder and zip disc and hit the rest of the bolts out with a punch and then put in some 3/8'' bolts. They will hold just as good. Whenever I have to cut a bolt off my truck or tap something out it doesn't get replaced with anything metric.

NicCantDecide · 01-05-2009, 01:32 PM

^^ that must suck for when you're working on your truck and have to keep metric and SAE wrenches around you

I was able to get my front cat bolts out easy with a stripped not remover, but the back ones I had trouble because the muffler got in the way of hammering the nut remover onto the nut. I ended up pulling the whole exhaust out from the downpipe back and using a cutoff wheel to get the nuts off, then I just kicked the cat and it came loose.

All I had to do then was install a new cat, of course I went with a 2.5" magnaflow cat and muffler followed by a turndown before the axle heheh sounds pretty sexy and not too loud. Get a little gurgle when I let off the gas below 2500rpms.

4Crawler · 01-05-2009, 01:38 PM

I use 3/8" stainless steel bolts and nuts on my '85 cat. conv. Nice thing is those bolts use a 9/16" wrench and 14mm fits just fine as well. I also apply some metallic anti seize paste on the threads before installing the nuts. Bolts look like new even after 10+ years of use. You could use metric s/s hardware, but realize that those cost a lot more and they will likely have a 17mm head, which means I need to get a different wrench for those than for the other factory 10mm bolts, that have a 14mm head.

82yota · 01-05-2009, 02:55 PM

I keep metric and standard wrenches with me anyways. Socket sets generally come with both. And as 4crawler said 9/16 and 14mm are the same thing and 3/8'' bolts are 9/16. And generally standard bolts are much easier to get. Around here at least.

Matt16 · 01-05-2009, 04:48 PM

Cut them off with a grinder or Dremel. Mine cat bolts and nuts don't even have distinguishable facets. No way in hell you'd be able to unbolt them normally.

86Toyrunna · 01-05-2009, 05:02 PM

the best luck i have ever had on stuff like that is taking a larger generaly a 3/4" nut, crank up the welder and weld the new larger nut to the bolt head, really lay the weld into it, by the time you are done the bolt head and nut should be glowing red hot, almost white hot. grab a impact gun with a good tight fitting sockett and let er' rip.... if that dont work get out the grinder or torch

943kgt · 01-05-2009, 06:09 PM

Ohh man am I glad I have oxygen-acetylene torches LOL.. I'd have those bolts out in 2 minute

01-05-2009, 07:00 AM	#3 (permalink)
GorgeRunner Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: The Gorge Posts: 153	For stubborn nuts, I like a torch first, maybe a nut splitter if you can get it in there second, cutting wheel third. __________________ WatermanAtWork - 1995 4Runner SR5 - 1990 Pickup

01-05-2009, 07:03 AM	#4 (permalink)
rvsmichael Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Miami,oklahoma Posts: 43	go to auto parts store and get a stripped bolt or nut remover socket they work well the new type __________________ Mike rvsmichael@gmail.com

01-05-2009, 10:39 AM	#8 (permalink)
ozzydg55 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Wilkes Barre Pa. Posts: 140	I just put a new cat on about 6 months ago just cut them with a saws-all on one side and they pop right out __________________ 1994 X-cab SR5 3.oL 5 spd.,33/12.50/15 AT,3inch body lift,3 inch aal,1.5 inch BJ spacers,Skyjacker 7ooo on the corners and steering stab.,K&N CAI,Rhino liner bottom half of truck,some cheapass cb,Pacesetter cat back,1 1/2 inch longer shackles,asian manual hubs,remote fog lights If you can't take it ,DON'T dish it out DON'T worry mommy will buy you a new one SEARCH THIS...........

01-05-2009, 11:58 AM	#9 (permalink)
89whitetoyota Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio - Amelia is the exact place. There is no one else on this site from where I am. Seems like everyone is from Cali or Washington. I guess I need to move. Posts: 557	I would sawsall it off and just put a piece of straight pipe in the place and weld, that way, some one wont be tempted to walk of with your new like they did mine a month ago, if your truck is 4x4, it is an easy targer for cat theives. __________________ John Stranko 89 Toyota Pickup - 22R-E AutoZone Fog Lights Blue Interior w/ brown dash American Racing 767's - 31x10.5 YOKO's Thats all the mods I got I think St. Patties Day is unAmerican. I technically celebrate St. Patties every night of the year, I dont need a holiday to justify it.

01-05-2009, 12:01 PM	#10 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 8,640	Heat it up till its real hot, then douse it in pb blaster or liquid wrench. If it still does not come off, its time to cut it off.. __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 250k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\|hella E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

01-05-2009, 06:25 AM	#2 (permalink)
claudebadly Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 61	cut the bolts off. be carefull and take your time

01-05-2009, 12:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 8,640	I have the same problem TN! Mine look like two gobs of metal... I think my only option is to cut and tap.... __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 250k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\|hella E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

01-05-2009, 12:34 PM	#13 (permalink)
Squiddy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 343	IMHO use a grinder - fast and clean if careful. Bolts should then come out easy. Don't waste your time with nut splitters, etc. Sawsall is good but run thru blades fast.

01-05-2009, 12:45 PM	#14 (permalink)
82yota Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 301	Cut the bolts off with an angle grinder and zip disc and hit the rest of the bolts out with a punch and then put in some 3/8'' bolts. They will hold just as good. Whenever I have to cut a bolt off my truck or tap something out it doesn't get replaced with anything metric.

01-05-2009, 01:32 PM	#15 (permalink)
NicCantDecide Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tempe, AZ Posts: 330	^^ that must suck for when you're working on your truck and have to keep metric and SAE wrenches around you I was able to get my front cat bolts out easy with a stripped not remover, but the back ones I had trouble because the muffler got in the way of hammering the nut remover onto the nut. I ended up pulling the whole exhaust out from the downpipe back and using a cutoff wheel to get the nuts off, then I just kicked the cat and it came loose. All I had to do then was install a new cat, of course I went with a 2.5" magnaflow cat and muffler followed by a turndown before the axle heheh sounds pretty sexy and not too loud. Get a little gurgle when I let off the gas below 2500rpms.

01-05-2009, 01:38 PM	#16 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,836	I use 3/8" stainless steel bolts and nuts on my '85 cat. conv. Nice thing is those bolts use a 9/16" wrench and 14mm fits just fine as well. I also apply some metallic anti seize paste on the threads before installing the nuts. Bolts look like new even after 10+ years of use. You could use metric s/s hardware, but realize that those cost a lot more and they will likely have a 17mm head, which means I need to get a different wrench for those than for the other factory 10mm bolts, that have a 14mm head. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

01-05-2009, 02:55 PM	#17 (permalink)
82yota Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 301	I keep metric and standard wrenches with me anyways. Socket sets generally come with both. And as 4crawler said 9/16 and 14mm are the same thing and 3/8'' bolts are 9/16. And generally standard bolts are much easier to get. Around here at least.

01-05-2009, 05:02 PM	#19 (permalink)
86Toyrunna Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: B-TOWN, ORYGUN Posts: 431	the best luck i have ever had on stuff like that is taking a larger generaly a 3/4" nut, crank up the welder and weld the new larger nut to the bolt head, really lay the weld into it, by the time you are done the bolt head and nut should be glowing red hot, almost white hot. grab a impact gun with a good tight fitting sockett and let er' rip.... if that dont work get out the grinder or torch __________________ current: 1986 4Runner, Rebuilt 22RE with engnbldr HP head, cam'd, battery/intake swap, SASed, 5.29s, detroit rear, 35in MTRs, trussed and armored axles, marlin HD clutch, soon to be dual cased, TG rear bumper, Best mod todate CHROME METAL SR5 DOOR HANDLES, thats whats up RIP: 1985 Standard Cab SR5 pickup, add-a-leafs and shackels, 33" BFGs, it died a horrible death (50mph roll over) DD: 2006 Scion Tc w/TRD Supercharge and TRD stainless cat-back exhaust

01-05-2009, 06:09 PM	#20 (permalink)
943kgt Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 99	Ohh man am I glad I have oxygen-acetylene torches LOL.. I'd have those bolts out in 2 minute

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