old 86

So my rear diff just went and after reading around here it almost seems as though it will be easier to replace the whole rear axle (as far as technical difficulty) than to do replace just the diff. In addition, my drivers side half shaft is bent and I have to replace my rear leaf springs anyways. Could anybody give me any info on these two options.

There is a 4runner up the road that is of the 85-90(?) body style, is there any way to tell the gears in my truck and in the 4runner, easily, to make sure they are both the same. Am I right that most of them are 4.10's? Mine is an 86 pickup and I am pretty sure it came with 225-75-15 tires and I do not the the 4runner came with 31's. I thought I read that if they are 4.10's I should be able to detach the rear drive shaft and see a pink dot.

Lastly if my idea to replace the whole rear axle is right is there anybody in Mass that has a complete rear axle with hubs diff etc, if that 4runner doesn't work out?

I am really in a bind here as this is my only car so if any of you can help me out I would greatly appreciate it.

thanks

Bill

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but here goes:

You could swap the whole axle pretty easily, both use the same width spring perches, brakes, etc. The only difference is the 4Runner axle is 1/2" wider(oooo....)

The best way to make sure that you're gears match would be to take the axle off the 4Runner, pop out the 3rd member, and put your current one in.

To swap the whole axle is pretty easy. Disconnect the brake lines at the T-junction. unbolt the shocks. unbolt the driveshaft, and then unbolt the u-bolts. (12 bolts total + brake fittings)

To swap the 3rd member, drain the diff, remove the drums, and undo the 4 nuts(per side) on the axle tube at the backing plate. Then just pull out the axle shaft. youmight need a slide hammer...or just a big friend. You only need to pull the shafts out a little ways (6-8")

once the shafts are out, unbolt the 3rd member and slide it out.

Robinhood150

Your years are off a little, you'll want an axle out of an 86-89 4runner. I'm not sure if the axles out of a truck are the same, with respect to the brake routing, etc. Somebody else will probably post about that.

I guess technically it'd be easier to swap the whole axle, but if you only swap the 3rd member you open up many more sources. You can use any non-elocker 3rd member from any toyota truck or 4runner. You can use an elocker, but you'll need to do some housing mods.

As for what gears you have, do a search, there's a link deciphering the VIN to tell you what gears you have.

amgraham

I just pulled a whole axle from a 92 Pickup for parts for my 87 4Runner and they seem the same. The way you can tell the ratio if you can't decode the vin is 1) if it is a open differential (most are) lift one of the rear wheels, chock the front wheels so you can put it in neutral, and have a friend spin the tire exactly 2 times. Watch the driveshaft while they spin the tire and take note how many times the driveshaft spins (you may want to mark it). If it turns a little more than 4 times it's a 4.10, about 4.5 is a 4.56, almost 5 is 4.88s. If it has a locker or posi you have to lift both rear tires and you only spin them once.

Good luck!

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

you can look at the door for the axle code. If it's the same, go for it.

old 86

Alright time to admit my ignorance here. I have done a my share of work on cars, like this truck to keep them running, but I have to admit sometimes I don't know the name of everything, so could anybody quickly tell me the difference between the rear diff and the third member, it seems as this would be good for me to know.

After doing a little reading it also seems as though I should double check my diagnosis. The other day I was backing up in my driveway and it felt as though I suddenly hit really something hard. Only problem was there was nothing there, so I coninued to drive back and forth testing things out and it happend a couple more times, I assume it was my rear diff I guess now it could be my third member as to this point the entire casing in the center of the rear axle was the rear diff to me. I have yet to check the universal joint but usually things don't go that easy for me. I guess all this is to say is there an easy way to tell if it is the diff or the third member? I don't think it is the transmission because I just replaced it and the transfere case last winter. Another little piece of info, my rear diff case has been leaking for about a year now and I do my best to keep fluid in it but...

Thanks all of you so much for your knowledge I feel as if I have atleast enough info to get started (or to get myslef into trouble) and I really appreciate your help.

If anybody else has more info to my first posting or this one I would be greatful for the help, as I need it, and really like knowing this stuff as well

I am leaning at this point towards doing a whole axle swap because I need to do the leaf springs anyways and will have the axle pretty much off already. My axle/half shaft on my drivers side is bent and I have always thought it would be nice to have a straight one even though it doesn't seem to effect anything, so this is further incentive to change out the axle.

BlackToySteve

In layman's terms, diff=third member.

Third member: the combined unit that is the carrier, ring & pinion, spider gears/locker/LSD, whathaveyou, all bolted into the unit that unbolts from the axle itself. Also known as a differential assembly in the context of Toyota pickup axles.

Differential: the type of carrier and spider gears/locker/LSD used, i.e. open, locked, etc. The actual meaning of differential meaning the split of power from the ring & pinion between the axles and thus to the wheels, allowing the axles shafts to turn at different rates to make turns more easily.

Axle housing: the part that holds the third member and the axles.

In other words, you are asking whether or not to replace the third member or the entire axle including housing and third member.

If I were you, and the third member is bad (probably fried pinion bearing or busted teeth) and an axle shaft is bent, I would replace the entire axle. If you can find the parts at the local salvage yard, then replacing only the bent axle shaft and third would be viable, as long as the axle housing itself is not bent.