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reasonable shop cost for pinion seal replacment??

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Old 11-07-2008, 07:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by thewjsand
This is a great thread, i hope that anyone with questions will find this thread and not start a new one!

I have some further advice that is not touched upon by the experts who have posted to this thread:

I did my pinion seal this past Wednesday and it took me close to 5 hours. That is 4 hours two long, 2 of which were spent trying to un-stake the nut and the the other trying to pound my seal in. For both i offer advice since neither is touched upon and is referred to as a just do it. Yet for the first timer these are the major stopping points.

1st: To un-stake the nut, use a screw driver or cold chisel that is the correct width. Mine was staked so far that it was flush with the pinion shaft, i needed to wedge a sharp edge between before i impacted the nut off. You have to hit it much harder than you would think but keep at it an you will sperate the two. I ground down a cheap flat head screw driver to be adquate but i'm sure you can find something off the shelf to do the trick.

2nd: Getting the seal in can be very tricky, no matter what method you use it will go in uneven at first. When it is in uneven (not fully but about twice as far in on one side versus the other) use a piece of a 2x4 or 2x6 of soft wood. I used pine, put the end of the wood on the side that is sticking out and pound it in with a hammer. The wood will supply and even distributed load to the side and will sink the side without popping out the other. This method worked for me on the second try. Give it shoot it is much easier than using the old rubber mallet trick.

Good luck i hope this helps someone.

A center punch / drift can be used to 'un-stake' the retaining nut.
A large enough piece of pipe or a sufficiently large socket can be used to drive the seal down. That's my 2 cents.

thewjsand has posted good information nonetheless.
Old 11-13-2008, 11:43 AM
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yes, i just did a search and found this, i am recommending it for a sticky, as seals tend to go bad all the time, and people will always ask.
Old 11-13-2008, 11:48 AM
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Do it yourself, no special tools necessary... save your money...



damn, I sound like the ING DIRECT guy
Old 11-13-2008, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by toyospearo
ZUK, you are the man. Due to your patience and clear instructions I understand the procedure.
To thank you I brought you something from the sea.
thank you thank you
Well toyospearo, did you have a chance to do the seal replacement yet?
Old 02-12-2009, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 86tuning
24mm is the size.

Be sure you can remove the fill plug before the drain plug, otherwise you can't even drive the thing to a shop if you drain the oil and cannot refill it.

...

If the gearset already has a solid pinion spacer installed, you can definately shortcut it, in which case it will take less than an hour to flip in a seal and refill the diff.
Thank you all for your advice on the rear pinion seal replacement. Mine was leaking like the one shown in the photos, and I replaced the seal back in December with help from the PO. I have been watching it since then, and so far, so good - no more leaks!

The advice above about checking the fill plug first is good. I tried that, but sure enough, we could not get the fill plug off, even with an impact wrench. Our workaround was to pump the correct amount of oil (spec from the shop manual) using a hand pump with plastic hose, through the breather opening on top. This worked well, but took a little longer.

Last edited by Atlanta4Runner; 02-12-2009 at 10:34 AM.
Old 02-12-2009, 11:40 AM
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A added note,one reason the seals go,is sometimes the breather clogs up,change the DIff. Breather or clean it when you put the seal in. A seven dollar part.
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