reasonable shop cost for pinion seal replacment??
#21
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This is a great thread, i hope that anyone with questions will find this thread and not start a new one!
I have some further advice that is not touched upon by the experts who have posted to this thread:
I did my pinion seal this past Wednesday and it took me close to 5 hours. That is 4 hours two long, 2 of which were spent trying to un-stake the nut and the the other trying to pound my seal in. For both i offer advice since neither is touched upon and is referred to as a just do it. Yet for the first timer these are the major stopping points.
1st: To un-stake the nut, use a screw driver or cold chisel that is the correct width. Mine was staked so far that it was flush with the pinion shaft, i needed to wedge a sharp edge between before i impacted the nut off. You have to hit it much harder than you would think but keep at it an you will sperate the two. I ground down a cheap flat head screw driver to be adquate but i'm sure you can find something off the shelf to do the trick.
2nd: Getting the seal in can be very tricky, no matter what method you use it will go in uneven at first. When it is in uneven (not fully but about twice as far in on one side versus the other) use a piece of a 2x4 or 2x6 of soft wood. I used pine, put the end of the wood on the side that is sticking out and pound it in with a hammer. The wood will supply and even distributed load to the side and will sink the side without popping out the other. This method worked for me on the second try. Give it shoot it is much easier than using the old rubber mallet trick.
Good luck i hope this helps someone.
I have some further advice that is not touched upon by the experts who have posted to this thread:
I did my pinion seal this past Wednesday and it took me close to 5 hours. That is 4 hours two long, 2 of which were spent trying to un-stake the nut and the the other trying to pound my seal in. For both i offer advice since neither is touched upon and is referred to as a just do it. Yet for the first timer these are the major stopping points.
1st: To un-stake the nut, use a screw driver or cold chisel that is the correct width. Mine was staked so far that it was flush with the pinion shaft, i needed to wedge a sharp edge between before i impacted the nut off. You have to hit it much harder than you would think but keep at it an you will sperate the two. I ground down a cheap flat head screw driver to be adquate but i'm sure you can find something off the shelf to do the trick.
2nd: Getting the seal in can be very tricky, no matter what method you use it will go in uneven at first. When it is in uneven (not fully but about twice as far in on one side versus the other) use a piece of a 2x4 or 2x6 of soft wood. I used pine, put the end of the wood on the side that is sticking out and pound it in with a hammer. The wood will supply and even distributed load to the side and will sink the side without popping out the other. This method worked for me on the second try. Give it shoot it is much easier than using the old rubber mallet trick.
Good luck i hope this helps someone.
A large enough piece of pipe or a sufficiently large socket can be used to drive the seal down. That's my 2 cents.
thewjsand has posted good information nonetheless.
#25
24mm is the size.
Be sure you can remove the fill plug before the drain plug, otherwise you can't even drive the thing to a shop if you drain the oil and cannot refill it.
...
If the gearset already has a solid pinion spacer installed, you can definately shortcut it, in which case it will take less than an hour to flip in a seal and refill the diff.
Be sure you can remove the fill plug before the drain plug, otherwise you can't even drive the thing to a shop if you drain the oil and cannot refill it.
...
If the gearset already has a solid pinion spacer installed, you can definately shortcut it, in which case it will take less than an hour to flip in a seal and refill the diff.
The advice above about checking the fill plug first is good. I tried that, but sure enough, we could not get the fill plug off, even with an impact wrench. Our workaround was to pump the correct amount of oil (spec from the shop manual) using a hand pump with plastic hose, through the breather opening on top. This worked well, but took a little longer.
Last edited by Atlanta4Runner; 02-12-2009 at 10:34 AM.
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