coloradotom

I picked up a gallon of T6 5w-40 yesterday and put it in with a Toyota OEM filter. Let the monitoring begin!

pruney81

Nice! Let us know how it works out for ya.

john4wd

@ local walmart they have
1. Delvac super 1300 $12.96 a gal 15w-40 with (1380 ppm zink) dino oil
2. Rotella tripple protection 13.79 a gal. 15w-40 & (around 1200 ppm zink) dino oil
3. Rotella t-5 $16.00 a gal. synthetic blend & (around 1200 ppm zink) synthetic blend oil
4. Rotella T-6 $21.36 a gallon 5w-40 & (around 1200 ppm zink) full synthetic oil

@ Auto Zone has same as above oil but cost way more!!!!
An example of price difference 50/50 prestone is $14.99 @ AZ & at walmart it's just under 10 bucks, used to be 8 bucks at walmart a few months ago.
Bought Medium blue thread locker at walmart $4.74 while at AZ it's almost $6

I go to Wal Mart Auto Section 1st, Then other places 2nd and so on!!!!

Auto Zone also has:
1. Valvoline Premium Blue 15w40 & (1314 ppm zink) dino oil, had no price tag.
2. Rotella T-1 SEA 30 weight straight dino oil, (???? on the ppm Zink) forgot to get price.


older specs of CI-4 and CH-4 have higher levals of zink
read to stay away from newer CJ-4 said has less levals of zink
read not to go above 1400 ppm zink
Would anybody use these? I'm leaning toward WM number #4!!!!

sb5walker

For your next test, I'd suggest trying the PureONE PL20195. I used the Toyota filters for the first 15 years I owned the truck, but found a tremendous improvement when I switched to the PureONE last year: the oil stays MUCH cleaner for much longer than with the OEM filter.

Both filters flow very well, but the PureONE has a tighter, uniform synthetic mesh. Oil pressure remains good, even at the end of the cycle, so I know it's still flowing well, possibly due to the higher surface area of the media (213 sq in. vs 160 on the Toyota 90915-YZZD1.

clk_cpa

what you guys think about mobil1 high mileage? Have been using 10W-30 for the last year or so and the engine sounds little better.

TNRabbit

I'm disappointed in your assessment here; you're usually SO SMART about all things Yota~

The bypass valve prevents any "clogging" effect that you would ever observe. If a filter is clogged, it just bypasses the element.

If anything, a clogged filter (with no bypass) would cause HIGHER oil pressure~

sb5walker

Sorry, dude, but the oil pressure sender is after the oil filter, so clogged filter would show lower pressure. You're right about the bypass valve, tho, depending on the pressure that it releases at. I would expect a change in oil pressure between a fairly new filter, and one which is clogged enough to bypass however, and I don't see that with the PureONEs. Amsoil Ea filters for example clogged and apparently the bypass valves didn't work, so the oil lights came on and there was no oil circulating:
http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...o%20toyota.pdf

Note how Amsoil danced around the issue of the bypass valve utterly failing to work:
In other words, the bypass valve wasn't opening and allowing oil to bypass.

xxxtreme22r

wow sb5walker, I hadn't heard that from the PureOne filters, that oil filter thread a while back convinced me to switch to them. Up until then I had always used the Fram Tough Guard filters. Without issue I might add. This was on My old chev pickup (350 SBC), and both broncos (II and FS) (351W HO/2.8L).

coloradotom

Back at the beginning of August 2011 I put Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic into my '91 22RE 2wd truck that was using a little oil after a head gasket replacement. The truck had 126,000 miles when I put in the T6.

I had tried my old stand-by, Castrol Syntec 5w-30 and it was using quite a bit of that. I was wondering if a higher viscosity oil was called for (and that question was discussed in this thread). Or, was synthetic causing more oil consumption? Or, was this engine (which I have owned since '94) that had never used any appreciable oil now simply going to use some regardless of what I used? So I dumped the Syntec and got the 5w-40 T6, for the higher viscosity.

I drive at least 1,000 a month in this truck, almost all of it my 25 mile commute on a two-lane road with 60 mph speed limit (I drive it at 65-70). It's relatively flat by Colorado standards, between 7,000 and 8,000 feet elevation, a short hill that causes a 4th gear downshift both directions.

Last weekend I changed the oil after almost exactly 7,000 miles. Here's how it went with the T6: I got the T6 in a 5 quart jug. So I had part of a quart left after the August oil change. By the end of August I had added all or most of that, so I bought another 5 qt jug. I changed the oil after I had used all of that 2nd 5 qt jug and the oil level was at the low mark on the stick. So basically the thing used just about a quart per 1,000 miles. I consider that pretty poor for a Toyota engine with (now) 133 K miles. It parks in a garage. No drips on the floor.

At oil change I chose 10w-30 Castrol dinosaur oil. I put a dose of BG MOA in it. I plan to sell the truck in March, not because of the oil but because it's a standard cab and I'm a 6 footer. Tired of the leg cramp seat position.

I should be putting at least 1,000 miles on it before it goes away. I'll report how it does. If it uses less or no oil, that will be telling me that synthetic will be consumed more by an engine that uses oil.

FYI.

xxxtreme22r

To be a completely fair comparison, I wouldn't have put the MOA in it. Less variables to consider.
I would try this too if my darn oil pan wasn't leaking. lol.

wanderingwayne

I like your approach, trying to figure things out like you are. Here is something I experienced with synthetic oil and what I read about it that you may be interested in?

I have a Toyota Tacoma with a 2.7. It has a little over 222,000 miles and appears to have been well taken care of. I bought it last July 1st. I watched the oil level in the engine closely and it appeared it didn't use any oil between then and Sept 1st. Then I put Amsoil synthetic in it that I bought at Napa for $9.00 a quart (Good for 15,000 to 25,000 miles). The first three month of running with Amsoil I used a quart (3000 miles). The last 2 months I haven't used any (2000 miles).

I read an article talking about synthetic oils that said when you switch over, the synthetic will clean off any gunk that is built up around the seals, causing oil leaks to start. As the oil gets to the surface of the seals it will recondition and re-expand the seals and the oil consumption will go down.

I think that's what happened to me. It appears I am back to where I was before I started the synthetic, so maybe the article was correct.

Your seals might have gotten cleaned off and be in the processes of reconditioning so what ever oil you use might start doing better.

I know, one more variable to have to deal with. But it's a possibility.

coloradotom

Agreed. But I had a can sitting around that I had bought a while ago and this was going to be my last oil change on this truck before the sale. However, if going from synthetic 5w-40 to dino 10w-30 with MOA drastically reduces oil consumption I'll have a hard time believing it was only due to MOA. But yeah, plain old oil would have been a better deductive reasoning strategy.

When my mechanic fixed my blown head gasket last spring he replaced valve seals, so it all should have been pretty clean. Right after that work I put in Syntec 5w-30 and it was drinking that down like water. So I went with the Rotella T6. I hoped that if it was that the new seals needed to swell, Rotella would do that. Once I realized that I was going to be going through a quart per 1000 miles, I decided that quart might as well be a little cheaper than synthetic.

After tomorrow's commute I'll have a little over 500 miles on this oil. I'll pull the stick and see how she looks.

coloradotom

Oil consumption after ~650 miles was what I would judge to be a smidgen. MOA muddies the water a little, but I would have expected to be at least 1/3 quart down if it was like it had been when running Synthetic.

Truck is for sale now, so it won't matter to me, but if I was keeping it I'd be sticking with dino oil, no question.