iselloil

Amsoil 10w40 made for the flat tappet cams.Its the only oil I have run in my 3.0 that holds viscosity and steady oil pressure.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx

94toy22re

i run 5-40 rotella t6 in everything from my 05 sv650 and 08 600rr, riding lawn mower, bolth of my 22r/e (180k on 22re and 265K on 22r) powered trucks and my fiancee's s2000. the 600rr has 3k in track miles and 14k street miles and ran rotella oils since it was new. it cheaper than other synthetics and they have it at all my local walmarts. I think putting amsoil in a 22re or 3vze is waste of money when they will last just as long on dino 10-30 changed regularly.

iselloil

Why would it be a waste with proven performance?

KenC

there are too many variables to recommend 1 weight only,mileage,climate and driving conditions are some things to consider when choosing,it also depends on the bearing clearances ect.i ran 20w50 in my built lt1 trans am but the clearances were made on the loose side to prevent spinning a bearing.i run 10w30 in my jeep and 10w40 in my higher mileage toyota and the yota has been run with 10w40 for over 40k miles with no issues.i owned it 4 years ago then sold it to my cousin and just bought it back cause i missed it lol

racinfestus

hey keith,how you doin.im ok.the manufacturers oil specs is probably the best way to go,it depends on the temps where you run it.ive run all oil between 10/30 and 10/50 the thicker the oil it doesnt break down as fast in high temp climates.hope this helps.

BT17R

I'm not so sure the manufacturer and end user have the same goals. When any vehicle is tested for CAFE/EPA compliance, it must specify the same oil used in those tests in user guides and factory service manuals. You can see the problem. Manufacturers, including Toyota, want the lightest weight oil to reduce friction that will increase fuel economy while also reducing emissions since a little less fuel is required to overcome pumping losses.

For example, when EPA regs tightened in IIRC 2008, Toyota changed the oil requirement for the 1GR engine from 5W-30 to 0W-20 as shown on the filler cap yet nothing else changed within the engine proper besides the addition of variable valve timing on both sets of cams.

I think a knowledgeable end user knows best, at least in this case, the only situation where I'd second guess factory engineers. Another benefit to DIYers out there who given a choice can play with one maintenance variable with little worries.

BMcEL

I've been running 10w-40 in my 3VZ-E since I bought it in '04 with 146k miles and just switched to Delo 15w-40 at 250k (never rebuilt). I ran 10w-30 once for about 500 miles and changed back to 10w-40 due to excessive valve train noise. Take that as you will. I personally believe quality filters have MUCH more influence on wear than thicker oil.

wanderingwayne

I think using a heavier oil in an engine as the engine gets older sound like a logical way to go. More film thickness to fill the larger voids created by wear on the engine. But..............

I may be mistaken here about Delo oil. From my younger days I remember people saying not to use Delo in your small gas engines because it was made for diesels and was a high detergent oil and would shorten the life of your engine. I looked up Delo and found this in a Harley Forum.

In the past few years oil makers have drastically reduced the amount of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils to stop the fouling of catalytic converters. ZDDP is the additive that helps oil bind to bearing surfaces. Diesel oils don't have that issue because diesels don't have the same converters. It's widely believed that the lubricity of diesel oils is therefore superior now.

John Deere has an oil called Plus-50 II 15W-40 Engine Oil and it is recommended for vehicles requiring CJ-4 oil, heavy-duty off-road equipment, on-road trucks, marine engines, natural gas engines, pickups, and automobiles. I have a John Deere place about 2 miles down the road where they sell this oil in 5 gallon buckets. It would work in the car, pickups and tractors. That would be handy and it's probably cheaper in bulk.

Now I'm more confused. Does anybody know anything more about less zinc in auto oils??? and if it true does that means it's not as good as it once was??? Will higher detergent oils shorten engine life???

xxxtreme22r

Less zinc in most oils is correct. Valvoline I have been told has retained it and has the most for a standard oil.

I've been using Rotella 15-40 and Valvoline 15-40 for years in all my vehicles. With the exception of my rebuilt engine which I only ran 10-30 Valvoline in it till I hit like 8000 miles or so. Back to using 15-40.

I also use it in my BMW E34 M30 engine which actually calls for a 15-40 weight oil. Only thing with that weight is actually diesel oil. IIRC nothing on the market other then diesel oil has ever had a 15-40 weight. But I could be wrong.

CajunKenny

My Supra gets German Castrol 0-30w and a Napa Gold Filter (made by Wix).
My Runner gets SuperTech 5-30w and Filter. SuperTech filters are made by K&N.

coloradotom

I just had a head gasket replaced on my '91 22RE because the blown one was leaking oil. Before the HG went, the truck used no oil (only 125K original miles on it). After it blew, oil leaked out onto the ground.

I've always used Castrol 5w-30 and Toyota filters. I'd been running conventional oil in it, but decided to go to synthetic (Castrol Syntec) after the work was done.

My mechanic got one of the half moon seals in a little wrong when he replaced the valve cover so it continued to leak a little, but then he fixed that and washed the engine. No oil is leaking from the valve cover or head right now. But it seems to be using a little. I haven't had more than 4-500 miles yet since everything got sealed up to watch, but it seems to be.

I've heard that some vehicles will always use a little oil when running synthetic (my old T100 was NOT one of those, I used Syntec 5w-30 in it after 130K miles and it never used a drop of anything but gasoline). I've also heard that synthetic sometimes finds little leaks that conventional oil does not.

I was thinking of dropping that synthetic oil this weekend and putting conventional back in, and I was thinking maybe it was time to go with 10w-30. That's when I found this thread. I read Ferrari-guy's essay (well, most of it. I only have so much time) and I'm not sure what to think of it, sounds like lots of it makes sense.

My first priority right now is that I don't want to have to add oil to my truck with only 125K miles on it. I know it might use some, but I'd like to at least be able to go from oil change to oil change without needing an extra quart. I'd also like the reduced wear and added fuel efficiency of running low viscosity oil, and/or synthetic. This rig is my DD and it gets subject to about 5 months worth of very cold early AM starts. I think that 5w-xx probably really is better for avoiding wear at startup in the cold than 10w-xx or 15w-xx, but would a higher first number oil use less, or no oil? What about the danged synthetic? Could that be the whole problem with my missing oil?

Right now I'm thinking I'll go with 10w-30 for now while it's still summer to see what effect that might have on oil consumption. Then I'll probably change to 5w-30 when it turns cold again. I'm thinking I'll just go back to conventional.

But the real test would be to put 5w-30 Castrol conventional oil back in and see if it goes back to no oil consumption. That would tell me that synthetic is the culprit and viscosity is not. If I go to 10w-30 conventional and oil consumption stops, then I'd need to go to 10w-30 synthetic to see if viscosity makes the difference.

What do all you folks think about this? Have you seen synthetic oil get consumed in an engine that does not consume conventional? I know some go for higher viscosity and others do not. I'm not sure where I stand on that right now. Ferrari guy makes a fair amount of sense, but common sense says thicker would lubricate better...

john4wd

Found this - not sure how up to date it is....
John4wd

Name Vis P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Detergents (ppm) API Date Type Source

Amerilube 10w50 1254 1115 3001 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil AFL Euro 5w40 701 804 50 1452 SL 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil HDEO 5w40 794 1081 2276 CJ-4 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil Series 2000 Racing 20w50 1014 1123 12 3209 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil V-Twin/MC 20w50 1193 1281 3564 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 434 532 165 1601 SL 08/06 SEMI Blackstone
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 334 1096 209 3061 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Act Evo 20w50 765 1126 1724 SG 05/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol GPS 4STK MC2 20w50 767 1133 1544 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Castrol GTX 20w50 1157 1422 1848 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Castrol GTX High Mile 20w50 1248 1382 1848 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol Syntec 5w40 786 918 1979 SL 09/06 SYN Blackstone
Castrol Syntec 5w50 921 914 58 2628 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Castrol Syntec Blend 20w50 937 916 1197 SM 03/07 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Tection Extra 15w40 965 1094 46 2461 CI-4 3/07 DINO Blackstone
Castrol TWS 10w60 425 1294 111 2383 SJ 06/06 SYN Staveley
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 1191 1622 3668 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Delvac 1 5w40 1390 1803 76 2583 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 1380 1702 78 2388 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Elf 505.01 VW 5w40 584 1092 2691 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Exxon Av Break-in oil 20w50 1 4 23 N/A 11/05 DINO Staveley
Exxon Av Oil 20w50 702 32 33 N/A 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Exxon Superflow 20w50 717 848 96 2650 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Ford Motorcraft 5w20 545 848 298 2005 SM 01/07 SEMI Staveley
Harley Davidson Syn3 20w50 1081 1182 264 1482 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Havoline 20w50 425 494 87 1049 SM 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Joe Gibbs Racing XP5 20w50 920 1231 504 SG 04/07 SEMI Blackstone
Kendal GT (Vintage) 20W50 1229 1415 2408 SE 11/05 DINO Blackstone
Kendall GT 20w50 904 1233 2885 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Kendall GT 10w30 582 872 278 1416 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Kendall GT 10w40 598 897 282 1565 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Lucas High Perf. Motor Oil 20w50 386 460 214 1079 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 761 876 167 2630 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 796 907 178 2650 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 808 976 185 3256 SL 04/03 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 706 834 148 2246 SM 02/05 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 15w50 952 1030 41 2175 SM 03/07 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1193 1376 228 2970 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1062 1279 79 2485 SM 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 906 1024 72 2071 SM 01/06 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1315 1428 226 2593 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1277 1460 188 2025 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1411 1623 188 2248 SG 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 R 0w30 1399 1536 178 3051 SG 02/04 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 Super Syn 15w50 1343 1390 205 2601 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w40 1034 1247 51 2826 CI-4 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 V Twin 20w50 1329 1949 204 2130 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 5k Clean 10w40 660 1028 2895 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Mobil High Mile 10w40 527 1021 2844 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Motul 300V Competition 5w40 1317 1409 19 3273 SH 04/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 300V Competition 15w50 1139 1130 20 2410 SH 05/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 505.01 VW 5w40 973 1226 2830 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Competition 15w50 1148 1327 11 2723 SH 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Tekma Mega 15w40 1220 1737 145 3469 CI-4 05/06 DINO Staveley
Mystik 15w40 1130 1224 3104 CI-4 03/07 DINO Staveley
Mystik 10w50 700 799 2003 CI-4 03/07 SEMI Blackstone
Pennzoil 20w50 501 800 223 2062 SM 01/07 DINO Staveley
Quaker State Q Full Syn 5w50 923 908 1917 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Redline 15w50 924 1004 27 2287 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Redline 10w40 1440 1872 3039 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Rotella 15w40 843 946 26 1881 CJ-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Rotella 15w40 996 1130 32 2054 CJ-4 04/07 DINO Staveley
Rotella 15w40 1278 1555 2946 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Rotella 5w40 1397 1552 2921 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple 20w50 668 763 2034 SJ 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple 20w50 1290 1337 3295 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Max Cycle 10w40 4085 1222 2599 SJ 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3179 1030 2142 SJ 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3907 1458 2478 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Racing 51 20w50 1285 1417 2639 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple XPR 10w40 1034 1741 2709 SJ 12/06 SYN Blackstone
Schaeffer 7000 Supreme 20w50 1249 1626 2451 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Schaeffer 9000 Supreme 5w40 1113 1315 10 3126 SL 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Torco SR-1 20w50 363 412 759 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco SR-5 20w50 1072 830 10 1481 SG 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco T-4SR 20w50 1059 969 1293 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Torco TR-1 20w50 670 571 958 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco V Series ST 20w50 1030 1286 2231 SG 05/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline All Fleet Plus 15w40 1110 1232 3559 CI-4 10/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Durablend 20w50 566 732 13 2606 SM 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline Max Life 20w50 691 879 17 2170 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Prem. Blue 15w40 1314 1838 158 4329 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 20w50 605 689 1786 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Valvoline VR1 20w50 1085 1293 17 2242 SL 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 835 976 10 819 SL 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 842 962 11 838 SL 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Bardahl No Leak/Smoke 53 4 0 11/05 O/A Staveley
Boron Motor Silk 116 0 05/06 O/A Staveley
CD-2 Maxx Detergent 1 7 2416 11/05 O/A Staveley
CMW Racing Concentrate 2292 1147 358 06/06 O/A Staveley
GM Cam Lifter Prelube 5710 5876 29004 01/07 O/A Blackstone
GM EOS Assembly Lube 5762 6221 8265 01/07 O/A Blackstone
Lucas Oil Stabilizer 36 13 0 01/07 O/A Staveley
Power Service Oil Extender 3567 4945 6394 11/05 O/A Staveley
Schaeffer Micron Moly 110 5 0 08/06 O/A Staveley
STP Blue 1704 2436 88 11/05 O/A Staveley
STP Red 2115 3932 901 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Max Life Protect 537 768 22 3871 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 356 551 650 11/05 O/A Staveley

Here are the running averages for all the oils tested thusfar:

API P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Mo (ppm) Ca (ppm) Mg (ppm) Na (ppm) Total Detergents
SE-SJ 1301 1280 151 357 1936 293 214 2443
CI-4 1150 1374 83 80 2642 199 2840
SL 994 1182 133 273 2347 109 22 2479
CJ-4 819 1014 26 2075 7 2082
SM 770 939 127 122 2135 13 139 2287

BT17R

Yes, when I switched my '97 FJ-80 with 125K miles (20K on a new short block replaced under original owner warranty) that stayed full between conventional changes to M1 of the same weight it "burned" (no visible leaks) about 1 qt./1K miles. I sold it before chasing the problem.

I've also read that once you change to synthetic, it's best to stick with it and not change back to conventional but don't recall why or if it's really a valid concern.

wanderingwayne

When Obleo met the pointed man he notice that he had a point in every direction. He quickly pointed out, "A point in every direction, is the same as no point at all."

But now, which oil should I use????? Maybe I've been reading this for to long. Going to bed.

TNRabbit

I have NEVER seen a 3VZE not use a quart between changes. Mine has for the past 11 years. They're designed to use a little; that's why we have such little wear on the cylinder walls. (IMHO)

redhanded

wow, good read. Im about to change my oil, and now Im more confused on what to use.

coloradotom

Well, this truck of mine has a 22RE not a 3.0 and I have never owned a 3.0. But I know that it should not be considered a real problem if a Toyota uses some oil.

But, every Japanese vehicle I've ever owned has consumed either no oil or not enough to notice. Many of these vehicles I bought new and then maintained well right from the start, but not all. And I have almost always changed the oil on a 3000 mile interval. Besides the four trucks listed in my signature, I had a new off the lot 91 Honda Civic 1.5 liter and a 92 Nissan Sentra that I bought with LOTS of miles on it a couple years ago as a DD.

Exception is the T100 after I started running synthetic--I took the interval to 10,000 on that truck with Syntec. As I said in my first post in this thread, that T100 with the 3.4 V6, no oil was used, even with Syntec in it for 10,000 miles in an engine with 145,000 miles.

I had a Tundra that I put Mobil 1 in (5w-30) when I got it and it used oil on that synthetic with less than 60K on the engine. When I went back to conventional Castrol 5w-30 with MOA in that truck it stopped using oil. But I also did a BG Quick Clean before putting in the Castrol conventional oil. So I don't know if the change was because I quit synthetic or whether it was because I cleaned the engine internals. And that truck had no leaks.

pruney81

I used to live in Leadville and I have been running Shell T6 5W40 Synthetic in my 90 22RE since it had 109K miles and now 30K miles later it doesn't burn or leak anything. I like the Shell for a couple of reasons: It flows well on start up and at operating temp it's a 40 weight, it's cheaper than most synthetics and can be found at any wal mart, and the ZDDP for our valve trains. I found it to be a very good oil for use in the extreme cold in Leadville and it's a solid weight when warm as well. I would try the T6 5W40 and see how that treats you.

sb5walker

Another thumbs up on the T6, for all the reasons pruney stated. Been working great in my veezy. Must have good seal conditioners because a small leak from the rear main seal that Valvoline MaxLife stopped has not started up again after almost a year of the T6. I think it's probably the best oil out there for any of our trucks with over, say, about 125k miles. (Below that a 30 weight would probably be better for tighter bearings.) But sufficient zddp is important, especially in 22REs because of the rocker arm/cam follower design, and modern SM grade oils do not have enough zddp. A synthetic 5W-30 diesel oil like Amsoil's would have enough (1300-1400 ppm) zddp and would be great for lower mile 22REs.

EDIT: And don't forget the Purolator PureONE PL20195 filter!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...filter-190242/

Keith B.

I like the idea of 5W-40(Valv Syn 966MST) for the 22RE. Thin for starting, thick for high temps. 15W-50 made it run slower. I add a little ZDDP with the new oil. I figure the 5W-40 has probably degenerated to 5W-30 by 5000 miles.