oil filters
#21
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#22
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I have used Fram, and noticed no difference than the Purolator that I normally use.
Come on, it's an oil filter. It's got no moving parts, and you're gonna throw it away in 3000 miles anyway, why spend more?
#23
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#24
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the anti-drainbacks tend to leak on frams too, and lets the oil drain back into the pan, causing dry starts.
The low end purolator/wix filters are the same cost as the low end fram!
The low end purolator/wix filters are the same cost as the low end fram!
#25
Fram Filters
Wow, lots of subjective opinions on this one.
I have been using Fram for 40 years. New cars, old cars. Conventional motor oils and synthetics. I have yet to have an filter related engine problem. My conjecture is Fram prices their filters low and gets the volume of sales. Have any of their filters exploded, probably not. Are they concerned about dry starts, you bet. Do they want you to have a good experience using their products, you bet. Do they want a class action law suit for crappy filters, he11 no. So, go ahead and buy those $10 filters if it makes you feel good.
My $0.02
I have been using Fram for 40 years. New cars, old cars. Conventional motor oils and synthetics. I have yet to have an filter related engine problem. My conjecture is Fram prices their filters low and gets the volume of sales. Have any of their filters exploded, probably not. Are they concerned about dry starts, you bet. Do they want you to have a good experience using their products, you bet. Do they want a class action law suit for crappy filters, he11 no. So, go ahead and buy those $10 filters if it makes you feel good.
My $0.02
#27
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I would like to add, that I used to use fram filters all the time - only real reason I switched to the purolator premium pluss is because I changed which auto parts store I shop at (and they only stock those filters).
#28
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I have been a Mobile 1 guy since forever. I mean how many companies can offer you and oil that they guarantee for 15,000 miles.Im not sayin that I buy the 15,000mile stuff but thats a pretty awesome claim when you think about it. I have used their filters too and havent really noticed much difference between them and a WIX except for the extra $6-7 bucks still im my pocket. But i would also avoid the Frams but thats just me.... Also has anyone ever tried using a bigger oil filter to get more oil capacity?
#29
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yep, trying it right now motorcraft fl-1a(manufactured by purolator). Same thread/seal size as the regular filters on the 22re.
the fl-1a is a pretty common filter because its what ford used on all of its v8's for years. I think it holds about twice what the stock filter holds.
the anti-drainback valves on frams dont seal properly. take it apart and see for yourself. they were actually well built filters way back when, but they're cheap crap now. If you have a filter on the bottom of the engine it doesent matter,but on the side, or top the oil will drain back by the poorly sealing antidrainback and cause a dry start.
feel free to use fram if you want, but you wont ever see fram on my truck!
the fl-1a is a pretty common filter because its what ford used on all of its v8's for years. I think it holds about twice what the stock filter holds.
the anti-drainback valves on frams dont seal properly. take it apart and see for yourself. they were actually well built filters way back when, but they're cheap crap now. If you have a filter on the bottom of the engine it doesent matter,but on the side, or top the oil will drain back by the poorly sealing antidrainback and cause a dry start.
feel free to use fram if you want, but you wont ever see fram on my truck!
Last edited by MMA_Alex; 03-08-2008 at 10:12 AM.
#30
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After I rebuild my motor I restarted using Frams as I always did. I friend of mine about demanded that I change to WIX. I did after only 500 mile on an oil change (the third oil change), ie spun the fram off and put the wix on. In one weekend, the oil changed colors!!! from black to a darker tan. I mean no see through to see through. Nope not exactly scientifical but convincing for myself.
After all "stupid is as stupid does"
After all "stupid is as stupid does"
#31
Registered User
Wow, lots of subjective opinions on this one.
I have been using Fram for 40 years. New cars, old cars. Conventional motor oils and synthetics. I have yet to have an filter related engine problem. My conjecture is Fram prices their filters low and gets the volume of sales. Have any of their filters exploded, probably not. Are they concerned about dry starts, you bet. Do they want you to have a good experience using their products, you bet. Do they want a class action law suit for crappy filters, he11 no. So, go ahead and buy those $10 filters if it makes you feel good.
My $0.02
I have been using Fram for 40 years. New cars, old cars. Conventional motor oils and synthetics. I have yet to have an filter related engine problem. My conjecture is Fram prices their filters low and gets the volume of sales. Have any of their filters exploded, probably not. Are they concerned about dry starts, you bet. Do they want you to have a good experience using their products, you bet. Do they want a class action law suit for crappy filters, he11 no. So, go ahead and buy those $10 filters if it makes you feel good.
My $0.02
Last edited by Brenjen; 03-08-2008 at 10:45 AM.
#32
i have personally seen fram filters come apart an clogg up oil passages and take out a motor. seen it about four times. used to work for a used car lot in between toyota dealers.
#33
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Puralator PureOne for myself for the last 13 years and never had a problem and they are constructed well.
Here's a link
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ers/index.html
And another
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
and also check the filters to avoid part which includes Fram
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html
I figure spend a little time with these pages and make a good choice since an oil filter is a big part of a motor's life and spending a couple more bucks might be a wise choice.
Here's a link
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ers/index.html
And another
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
and also check the filters to avoid part which includes Fram
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html
I figure spend a little time with these pages and make a good choice since an oil filter is a big part of a motor's life and spending a couple more bucks might be a wise choice.
Last edited by X-AWDriver; 03-09-2008 at 06:51 AM.
#35
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Ive seen problems with the "High milage" oil sludging up. If you change your oil regulary then there is no need for it. I prefer wix filters in both my toyotas, and used wix filters when I was working on diesel trucks.
#36
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#37
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/l...-media-102066/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/n...esults-126558/
Last edited by mt_goat; 04-28-2008 at 11:42 AM.
#39
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I agree with the people about FRAM, esepcially there cheap sure grip orange ones. The tough gaurds are supposed to be better but you can try Napa Gold/Wix, Bosch and Purolator. For the price these filters are good and constructed well. The top of the line that I've heard of is K&N and Mobil 1. Both of these filters are really good but they come with the price. For oil any of the major brands are on the same lever as each other, Castrol, Valvoline, Quaker, Penzoil, etc. There all good. I even read that the Walmart Supertech brand is either Quaker or Penzoil but becasue it's sold as Walmarts brand it's much cheaper. High milage oil just means that there's extra seal conditioners in the oil to help swell the seal to prevent or slow leaks. If your engine isn't leaking then it's not required. Fix a leak the right way anyway.
#40
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Mobile 1 filter and one of the high-mileage oils (at this moment Valvoline).
Advance Auto is only 5 minutes away so I see no point in driving farther to save $3.
Advance Auto is only 5 minutes away so I see no point in driving farther to save $3.