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Off Road Light Wiring?

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Old 07-27-2012, 07:13 AM
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I was going to mention that one of those leads on the switch would be to illuminate it when on. Guess you already figured that out.
Old 07-27-2012, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by NickMiller
So I'm looking into getting 4 Hella lights and a light bar for my 88 4Runner... retain a factory look.

Switch I was gonna use...
Originally Posted by NickMiller
Then that's probably what I'll do. 30 amp relay an 10 gauge wire just to be safe.
Deck lamp switch is clean, functional and will retain factory look.
Doesn't hurt to use thicker wire; try to keep wires short as possible and make sure you have grommets in bulkhead openings.
Here's schematic that shows relay contact and coil in detail. Just substitute off road lights for fog lamps. It uses switched-ground, typical of Yota control circuits. Control power is taken from parking light so you can turn your driving lamps whenever you damn please, yet not forget to turn them off because of light reminder alert. Add-a-circuit fuse holder is also clean way to tap for power.
Old 07-27-2012, 04:44 PM
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EBay? Oh, Nick ...

The form-factor of these switches is commonly referred to as a Contura Switch (Contura is a brand name: think "Kleenex"). Do a google search. Here are some brand new ones, labelled "Fog Lights", "Roof Lights", "Rock Lights" etc. http://www.otrattw.com/products.php?cat=5

$10.95-$12.50.
Old 07-27-2012, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by scope103
EBay? Oh, Nick ...

The form-factor of these switches is commonly referred to as a Contura Switch (Contura is a brand name: think "Kleenex"). Do a google search. Here are some brand new ones, labelled "Fog Lights", "Roof Lights", "Rock Lights" etc. http://www.otrattw.com/products.php?cat=5

$10.95-$12.50.
YES, those are nice! I especially am a fan of the 'ZOMBIE LIGHTS'! Toyo, on here, has them in his White 88 4Runner for his lights.... Couple more for the elocker and such. NICE quality, he said.

Hope you're well, Scope... Thanks for chiming in when I needed help
Old 07-28-2012, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by NickMiller
I was wondering if if would be possible to use a "deck lamp" switch to control them via relay... I'm not a wiring wiz and I was wondering if it could be done to retain a factory look. Thanks in advance for the help!

Switch I was gonna use...
what is the amp rating on that deck lamp switch?
it was only set up to run a single lamp...i would swap it out for one of quality switches...
Old 07-28-2012, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dropzone
what is the amp rating on that deck lamp switch?
it was only set up to run a single lamp...i would swap it out for one of quality switches...
Current rating for deck lamp switch is not critical because it will only carry low control current for relay. The purpose of a relay is to use low control current to energize coil that actuates and closes heavier contact that carry the high current. Similar to starter solenoid closing contacts to send high current to starter.
Old 07-28-2012, 11:49 AM
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Yes, and you want a HIGH AMP relay for 4 powerful lights... Fo Sho! lol. My buddy has 2 relays to run 4 lights... Along with 2 switches. He wanted 2 of the 4 off road lights more 'IN BETWEEN' for the road in front of him so to speak.. and the other 2 for distance floods.... He could use only 2 if he wanted, which he liked for when he was just setting up a winch and such, closer to the truck than the other FAR OFF spots were needed/to save power, too, while running the winch and lights, sometimes with engine stalled(He lives in Alaska, does pretty crazy treks... And also has lights on the back, but with a different switch to all 4 lights at once) It's a relay market place on his rig with a 12 Post Aux Fuse Block(which I should have gotten in stead of 6... But oh well, lol)>

CAN'T WAIT FOR PICS, MAN!
Old 07-28-2012, 07:25 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys! I'm planning on installing the switch in the dash panel sometime this weekend and I'm also gonna try and install the inclinometer I've been sitting on (waiting to find an un-cracked dash pad, but oh well) so you can see it in the dash, but I don't have the light bar/lights yet so that'll have to wait.

As for the inclinometer, will the harness plug into the trucks harness? If I remember correctly all of the SR5 models had the plug so I should be okay.
Old 07-28-2012, 07:48 PM
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Hmmm, not sure on the 'plug and play'... Should be, IIRC... But don't wanna commit to that! haha.

BTW, SCREW the new dash cover if you're having trouble finding one... JUST GRAB A COVER, like I have, and protect your new Inclinometer and the future dash when you get it!

One of the BEST investments the PO of my rig made! >>>



Also, ...if you have a problem with that switch... I got mine at PepBoys for like 3$ on sale.... And it's good quality w/cover. NOT for everyone, I know, but pfffffbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbt! lol.

Best wishes on all of it!
Old 07-28-2012, 08:49 PM
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since you have an automatic. this spot right here is perfect for a trio of switches!! i too like you wanted to use all OEM switches but i had an SR5 and no spots was open but one. the clutch cancel switch which our autos dont have. one spot wasnt enough so bam, i love this set up



anyways, cant wait to see your lights mounted up
Old 07-29-2012, 06:44 PM
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Well, I installed the switch, but since I don't have the lights yet it's not wired up... Inclinometer is installed and wired up! I'm gonna wait until it's dark to see if the lights/dimming work, but I can't see why it wouldn't!

Also, where do I get the carpet cover w/ inclinometer cutout?



Old 07-29-2012, 10:12 PM
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i got mine off ebay. it was made by "Original Dash Mat" i cant seem to find it anymore. might have to wait to see if seller puts more on ebay
this was the description for the one i got. i love it. i went with a dark gray/charcoal color




Original DashMat for 1987-1989 TOYOTA 4RUNNER WITH INCLINOMETER
Old 07-29-2012, 10:25 PM
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Nice work, Nick! .................

NICE DASHMAT, TOYO! hahaha... Yeah, seem harder and harder to find, ya know? Used to be I could go to ANY swap meet and there would be a guy there with the OEM dimmensions and part numbers, etc., etc., ... and one guy would MAKE YOU ONE! Any color, any pattern(within reason)... and saw plenty there like Camouflage(tan or green), and of course Cheetah, the like..... But mostly did Factory stuff, and WOW he wasn't cheap(like 85-145$ for his custom-hand made ones. He also embroidered stuff in em if you wanted, Vehicle Labels like Toyota's, Ford, whatever, or even your name, a loved one who'd passed, you know, the lot

NOW, ...NEVER see those guys any more. PLENTY of use parts and new parts sales(like lots of stolen stuff they can't put on CL ...YES, I know, because TPD catch em all the time! )...... Even the roundeyes.com type lights, etc., etc. Even have a toyota guy at the Carson Swap Meet at Alpine Village( I gotta hit him up! )......

LIKE IT, TOYO
Old 07-30-2012, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by NickMiller
Well, I installed the switch...
WOW! That's a clean install, Nick! Best of luck with the wiring.
-RAD
Old 07-30-2012, 09:15 AM
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Well I paid like 30 for mine
Old 08-28-2012, 08:11 PM
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Been a while with no progress, but I'm considering switching the idea of having the 4 rectangular hellas on the top to 3 KC's on the bumper similar to the pic... opinions?

Example:
Old 08-28-2012, 08:34 PM
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I like having my 2 on the front, regardless of whatever I do on the Con-Ferr... Because I might pull the top and not have any cage up there at times... and then what? I really don't want a light bar... So that's why I'm doing a grommet that's tight with all the light wiring tucked in when the top is off/cage is off... But still want the 5x7 KC's in the front and rear holes when the Con-Ferr IS on, ya know?

Only thing I hear that's against this set up in the pic is "Radiator cooling limiting"..... I'm not sure AT ALL how much it would limit air flow through the grill. Mine are sitting out a bit and spread apart a foot or so.... I just feel more comfy with unrestricted flow up there, s'all. But man it does look pretty good.

Why you changing lanes on this? Too much work to run em up there?
Old 08-29-2012, 09:32 AM
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The only thing that made me consider doing this was that pic I posted... Just looked sweet to me and I like the fact that I can keep my Yakima bars on. If I go with the 4 hella's on the top then I'll find a way to make a disconnect so I can remove it with little effort. I never thought about blocking air though. I need a new radiator so I wouldn't want to have anything else hurting cooling efficiency. I should be able to order the lights and light bar within a week so progress will continue
Old 08-29-2012, 10:10 AM
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Hey man, DO NOT avoid doing that solely based on what I 'threw out there', ya know? You asked, ... hopefully people will chime in.

Fans are meant to PULL cool air through the radiator/often condenser as well......... I have, as I said, NO IDEA how much flow that set up above would stop... I simply read a few comments over time from some guru's who didn't like it! lol. Plus, ok, when I think about the basic laws of physics.... it SEEMS like it would have to block it a LIL bit. But, HEY, that guy is running the set up.... I SWEAR I've seen him on here.... have you asked him on the 'air flow' thing?

BTW, I DO, also, honestly think that pic/set up looks sweet!
Old 08-29-2012, 10:33 AM
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I plant on making a removable storage rack with lights for my dd all u would need to do is get a trailer light connector


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