newbie Toyota owner 22re
12-30-2012, 11:53 AM
#21
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No vaccum leaks detected...or idle change with brakes applied....
1/4 turn is the way I have throttle stop adjusted..
when I crack the throttle, dash pot moves out but when I release throttle from like 2k rpms it slams against stop
1/4 turn is the way I have throttle stop adjusted..
when I crack the throttle, dash pot moves out but when I release throttle from like 2k rpms it slams against stop
Idle speed is set at normal operating temperature and parked. You adjust the idle speed with the jumper installed to 750 RPM. When you take the jumper out it'll be around 900. It's better to adjust it to 750 with the jumper in rather than just setting it at 900 without the jumper because you have to keep moving back and forth between adjusting idle speed and timing to get them both right.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Does the engine bogg our due when you hit the brakes? Hit the brakes while parked in your driveway. If the engine does anything you probably have a vacuum leak in the brake booster and you'll have to replace it. Check the rest of your vacuum lines with an unlit propane torch. Get the propane flowing and move the nozzle along all the hoses...especially where they connect. If there's a leak the RPMs will go up at that spot.
The throttle stop screw is set like this: Back the screw out until the throttle body flapper is fully closed. Slowly tighten the screw until it touches, but the flapper should still be fully closed. Give the screw another 1/4 turn and set the locking nut.
As far as the dashpot....open the throttle by hand and let it go. Does the dashpot catch it and ease it down that last little bit or does it just slam all the way shut?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Does the engine bogg our due when you hit the brakes? Hit the brakes while parked in your driveway. If the engine does anything you probably have a vacuum leak in the brake booster and you'll have to replace it. Check the rest of your vacuum lines with an unlit propane torch. Get the propane flowing and move the nozzle along all the hoses...especially where they connect. If there's a leak the RPMs will go up at that spot.
The throttle stop screw is set like this: Back the screw out until the throttle body flapper is fully closed. Slowly tighten the screw until it touches, but the flapper should still be fully closed. Give the screw another 1/4 turn and set the locking nut.
As far as the dashpot....open the throttle by hand and let it go. Does the dashpot catch it and ease it down that last little bit or does it just slam all the way shut?
12-30-2012, 02:22 PM
#22
How old is your fuel filter? You may need to replace it. Also check your fuel pressure. It'll be better for you to do a search on that. Other than that you really need to get that CEL working. You probably have some codes stored in there that'll tell you a lot.
12-30-2012, 04:51 PM
#23
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every time I pick up an older yota i always start by replacing everything that could have gone wrong or will go wrong, from a full tune up to you name it. Timing chain for sure as who knows if it was changed and not installed properly causing idle issues, fuel filter which many dont bother changing since its hidden under the intake plenum, oxygen sensor and so on,and make sure you get quality stuff as it makes a difference especially for the oxygen sensor !! trust me it makes a world of a difference when you tackle all these at once as it eliminates a lot of problems knowing that they have been replaced, and no worries down the road for a good while.
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