Newbie needs info on where to money for reliability
02-18-2007, 04:36 AM
#21
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a body lift wont do anything but raise your body and allow for bigger tires with stock suspension. a suspension lift will raise the entire vehicle giving more clearance. also allows you to run bigger tires, and yes you will get more flex(if you get the right lift) remember anytime you mod you rig you are playing engineer, so planning and homework is key.
if you wheel you wil break someday. you will break sooner if you dont do your hw
if you wheel you wil break someday. you will break sooner if you dont do your hw
Last edited by 20005spd; 02-18-2007 at 04:39 AM.
02-18-2007, 04:46 AM
#22
Some good advice in this thread...some irrelevant, some just plain bad.
Take your truck to a competent dealersip and let them inspect it. At my local dealer it usually costs about $36 and then they give you a list of things to fix. I have done this with several used Toyotas I have purchased. Perhaps they can pull a maintenance history from the VIN if it has been serviced at a dealership.
Then go from there. No sense rebuilding a perfectly good engine when all it might need is a fresh air filter and some minor adjustments from a competent mechanic. If you still want to add a header/new exhaust, LCE engineering has nice stuff but it is pricey.
Save your $1800 so you'll have some money for a rainy day.
Take your truck to a competent dealersip and let them inspect it. At my local dealer it usually costs about $36 and then they give you a list of things to fix. I have done this with several used Toyotas I have purchased. Perhaps they can pull a maintenance history from the VIN if it has been serviced at a dealership.
Then go from there. No sense rebuilding a perfectly good engine when all it might need is a fresh air filter and some minor adjustments from a competent mechanic. If you still want to add a header/new exhaust, LCE engineering has nice stuff but it is pricey.
Save your $1800 so you'll have some money for a rainy day.
02-18-2007, 06:19 AM
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02-18-2007, 06:21 AM
#24
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my 2 cents
Along with the tune up and greasing the thing, I would go through the Factory shop manual and inspect every sensor according to the instructions. If you make sure the sensors are set right and working properly, then your tune up will be accurate and probably increase your mileage.
I would focus on learning the Throttle position sensors TPS role in your air fuel mixture. Make sure your EGR system is working well, and check your vacuum hoses. Replace them all if they look like original equipment and clean out the metal vacuum routing lines. They are all probably full of old carbon and oil. Talk about low tech.
Read this thread at 4x4wire:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&o=all&fpart=1
If you read the whole thing carefully you will see that replacing the exhaust manifold isn't really worth it. Just up size the pipes behind the manifold to 2", and 2 1/4" behind the cat. Our manifold is much like a header in its design, unlike a chevy v6 manifold, it is a try-Y design.
If it is your daily, get street tires that are quiet, after you lower it, and have off road set for wheelin. You will enjoy the better mileage and noise reduction. FOr added comfort, line the floor and door innards with some cheapo sound dampening.
I would focus on learning the Throttle position sensors TPS role in your air fuel mixture. Make sure your EGR system is working well, and check your vacuum hoses. Replace them all if they look like original equipment and clean out the metal vacuum routing lines. They are all probably full of old carbon and oil. Talk about low tech.
Read this thread at 4x4wire:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&o=all&fpart=1
If you read the whole thing carefully you will see that replacing the exhaust manifold isn't really worth it. Just up size the pipes behind the manifold to 2", and 2 1/4" behind the cat. Our manifold is much like a header in its design, unlike a chevy v6 manifold, it is a try-Y design.
If it is your daily, get street tires that are quiet, after you lower it, and have off road set for wheelin. You will enjoy the better mileage and noise reduction. FOr added comfort, line the floor and door innards with some cheapo sound dampening.
Last edited by trythis; 02-18-2007 at 06:23 AM.
02-18-2007, 08:28 AM
#25
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I wouldn't touch the motor - it was rebuilt 23k miles ago! A header/exhaust can wake these motors up a bit, but will impact gas mileage. I always change ALL (oil, diffs, tranny, transfer case, coolant, brake fluid, power steering (which is actually ATF) - everything) the fluids when buying a used car so I know where I'm starting from.
If you 'wheel AT ALL and are concerned about reliability (ie - being able to get to school/work) the best way to spend the money is on armor. Start with rock sliders (www.4crawler.com and others make them) and skid plates (www.budbuilt.com). Save the rest of the money so you can repair/upgrade things that are going to wear out/break.
If you 'wheel AT ALL and are concerned about reliability (ie - being able to get to school/work) the best way to spend the money is on armor. Start with rock sliders (www.4crawler.com and others make them) and skid plates (www.budbuilt.com). Save the rest of the money so you can repair/upgrade things that are going to wear out/break.
02-18-2007, 08:59 AM
#26
02-18-2007, 11:37 AM
#27
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From reading the original thread starter's post it seems he wants something reliable to dd, yet hasn't had the mechanical reliability of the vehicle thoroughly evaluated. So before he starts dumping money into things that are essentially "mods"...see my previous comments.
Gotcha... I thought there was specifically bad advice in the thread, but you're just saying that most of the replies just missed the question entirely.
02-18-2007, 06:51 PM
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Hello everyone!
I just got home, which is also work and I ahve to get to it but I wanted to say thank you again to everyone who is posting to help me. I will post again later to to reply to all who have posted since last night. Thank you!
I just got home, which is also work and I ahve to get to it but I wanted to say thank you again to everyone who is posting to help me. I will post again later to to reply to all who have posted since last night. Thank you!
02-18-2007, 07:31 PM
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Some good advice in this thread...some irrelevant, some just plain bad.
Take your truck to a competent dealersip and let them inspect it. At my local dealer it usually costs about $36 and then they give you a list of things to fix. I have done this with several used Toyotas I have purchased. Perhaps they can pull a maintenance history from the VIN if it has been serviced at a dealership.
Then go from there. No sense rebuilding a perfectly good engine when all it might need is a fresh air filter and some minor adjustments from a competent mechanic. If you still want to add a header/new exhaust, LCE engineering has nice stuff but it is pricey.
Take your truck to a competent dealersip and let them inspect it. At my local dealer it usually costs about $36 and then they give you a list of things to fix. I have done this with several used Toyotas I have purchased. Perhaps they can pull a maintenance history from the VIN if it has been serviced at a dealership.
Then go from there. No sense rebuilding a perfectly good engine when all it might need is a fresh air filter and some minor adjustments from a competent mechanic. If you still want to add a header/new exhaust, LCE engineering has nice stuff but it is pricey.
Once all that is out of the way, if you really want to wheel your DD, which I have done, but dont anymore, a good improvement which wont affect reliability or gas mileage is a rear locker. Now I'm sure me saying this is going to open the whole "locker purchasing" can of worms so to speak, but that is my opinion. Something else to consider, if in the long run, youd like to wheel your vehicle more and more, you might want to weigh the benefit of a second vehicle. But in doing so remember costs such as insurance and so on. But, with a dedicated play toy, if you break it, you dont have to fix it right away. Best of luck!
my .02
Last edited by colsoncj; 02-18-2007 at 07:32 PM.
02-18-2007, 08:36 PM
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Some good advice in this thread...some irrelevant, some just plain bad.
Take your truck to a competent dealersip and let them inspect it. At my local dealer it usually costs about $36 and then they give you a list of things to fix. I have done this with several used Toyotas I have purchased. Perhaps they can pull a maintenance history from the VIN if it has been serviced at a dealership.
Then go from there. No sense rebuilding a perfectly good engine when all it might need is a fresh air filter and some minor adjustments from a competent mechanic. If you still want to add a header/new exhaust, LCE engineering has nice stuff but it is pricey.
Save your $1800 so you'll have some money for a rainy day.
Take your truck to a competent dealersip and let them inspect it. At my local dealer it usually costs about $36 and then they give you a list of things to fix. I have done this with several used Toyotas I have purchased. Perhaps they can pull a maintenance history from the VIN if it has been serviced at a dealership.
Then go from there. No sense rebuilding a perfectly good engine when all it might need is a fresh air filter and some minor adjustments from a competent mechanic. If you still want to add a header/new exhaust, LCE engineering has nice stuff but it is pricey.
Save your $1800 so you'll have some money for a rainy day.
Thank you very much! I was soo excited to rebuil the engine, I was planning to order the parts tomarrow! My buddy John agreed to help me to it, I even already told my business partner I was take the time off to do it. I may still. First though I think I will take it to the dealership.
Heres my concern though. I know that the person that sold it to me said the engine had been rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago. I'v driven it at least 3000. She told me that the master cylinder for the brake and clutch leaked. She did not tell me that the drivers side brake slave leaked. This caused the bareings in the axle to ruin and I had to replace them. I did both sides for good measure. That oversight on her part worries me. The problem made the truck undrivable. The axle smoked and nearly caught on fire at least twice. If I take it to the dealership they can look at it and give me an educated guess but they have no way to know the condition of the inside of the engine with tearing it apart and that is no $36 evaluation. I would like to save the money but I am tempted to just do the rebuild so I really know what i'm dealing with when i'm done.
The money I have is partly from a settlement from an accident and partly from what I got for my wrecked 1998 Toyota Tacoma (2.4 2wd). Aside from that I am completely broke. Completely. My cousin Steven and I run our Screen Printed business and things are taking off but most people know how the first five years of any new business are. This is why I can not save the money. I don't think i'm the only person who works away at their savings when they're totaly out of money. It wouldn't last more than a few months.
Still not sure what to do....
02-18-2007, 08:44 PM
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Along with the tune up and greasing the thing, I would go through the Factory shop manual and inspect every sensor according to the instructions. If you make sure the sensors are set right and working properly, then your tune up will be accurate and probably increase your mileage.
I would focus on learning the Throttle position sensors TPS role in your air fuel mixture. Make sure your EGR system is working well, and check your vacuum hoses. Replace them all if they look like original equipment and clean out the metal vacuum routing lines. They are all probably full of old carbon and oil. Talk about low tech.
Read this thread at 4x4wire:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&o=all&fpart=1
If you read the whole thing carefully you will see that replacing the exhaust manifold isn't really worth it. Just up size the pipes behind the manifold to 2", and 2 1/4" behind the cat. Our manifold is much like a header in its design, unlike a chevy v6 manifold, it is a try-Y design.
If it is your daily, get street tires that are quiet, after you lower it, and have off road set for wheelin. You will enjoy the better mileage and noise reduction. FOr added comfort, line the floor and door innards with some cheapo sound dampening.
I would focus on learning the Throttle position sensors TPS role in your air fuel mixture. Make sure your EGR system is working well, and check your vacuum hoses. Replace them all if they look like original equipment and clean out the metal vacuum routing lines. They are all probably full of old carbon and oil. Talk about low tech.
Read this thread at 4x4wire:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&o=all&fpart=1
If you read the whole thing carefully you will see that replacing the exhaust manifold isn't really worth it. Just up size the pipes behind the manifold to 2", and 2 1/4" behind the cat. Our manifold is much like a header in its design, unlike a chevy v6 manifold, it is a try-Y design.
If it is your daily, get street tires that are quiet, after you lower it, and have off road set for wheelin. You will enjoy the better mileage and noise reduction. FOr added comfort, line the floor and door innards with some cheapo sound dampening.
I appriticiate everyones input!!
02-18-2007, 08:46 PM
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i meant you could have someone do the machine work to the bottom end install new pistons and crank and other parts needed then you could get a new head from engnbldr install that your self then do the timing chain too and sell your old motor almost complete and make a some money back
I looked at that kit and was planning to buy it tomarrow. Now i'm not sure. I hope I decide to. I have to do whats best though.
02-18-2007, 08:48 PM
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The Best noney you can spend right now is gonna be to do just what this post recomends! Find out where you stand with what you have. The compression and leak down test will give you a good idea of the condition of the head and rings.The test kit aint real expensive,and the instructions will most likely come with it. If not someone here will walk you through it. Really easy to do. Find someone near that knows what they are looking at and pull the valve cover and see what the timing chain guide rails look like. If they are breaking up you spend that money quick, cause when that chain wears a hole in the timing gear cover you start to cry.When you pull the sparky plugs to do the comp and leak down test see if they all look about the same. A good tune up sure is a good idea for your next step, check the condition of the plugs, wire's, rotor and cap. Replace if needed. Check the timing, gap the plugs. Then belts and hose's. Dont forget heater hoses and vacuum lines. All those little lines get brittle with age and can start to crack. Just make sure that you do one at a time if you replace them so you wont get mixed up. Don't jump into pulling the motor down if you were told it's been done recently a good maintenance program and another few thousand miles of driving will sure let you know what you have. Drive you new ride for a while. Get to know her.
All that and a dollar will get ya a double cheesburger
Jim
All that and a dollar will get ya a double cheesburger
Jim
02-18-2007, 08:54 PM
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a body lift wont do anything but raise your body and allow for bigger tires with stock suspension. a suspension lift will raise the entire vehicle giving more clearance. also allows you to run bigger tires, and yes you will get more flex(if you get the right lift) remember anytime you mod you rig you are playing engineer, so planning and homework is key.
if you wheel you wil break someday. you will break sooner if you dont do your hw
if you wheel you wil break someday. you will break sooner if you dont do your hw
"if you wheel you wil break someday. you will break sooner if you dont do your hw"
Sooo true! My friend John warns of this regularly. I want to build up this truck. I will start with making it completely reliable. No engine problems on the horizon. I have very limited time so wheeling these days is not something I do very often. I do want it to be able to do ANYTHING. As someone here suggested, I do plan to buy a second car. I want an AE-86 Corolla. or an MR2 or a Supra. Whatever I can get cheapest and in the best condition.
02-18-2007, 08:57 PM
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I've been trying to respond to everones post, but its become unpractical. I would like everyone to know that VERY GREATLY APPRICIATE all of your adveice!!!
THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU!!!
02-19-2007, 12:39 AM
#36
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If you're dead set on rebuilding a motor, buy a junkyard block and rebuild it and leave it on a stand in the garage until you need it. Then you have a spare.
Or rebuild one and put it in the truck and take out the one you have and save it as a spare. Either way it would be nice to have a running engine laying around when and if you need it.
Or rebuild one and put it in the truck and take out the one you have and save it as a spare. Either way it would be nice to have a running engine laying around when and if you need it.
02-19-2007, 01:21 AM
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I might've missed this...but do you have any specific problems with your motor? If not, you're REALLY...REALLY wasting your time rebuilding it, as for one, the 22re is a very realiable motor (with proper maintenance). Therefore, I suggest you should just research everything maintenance related on your truck and establish a baseline on how things are running.
Then, once you've fixed all the minor problems, grab some headers, an exhaust and even a mild cam.
As far as the lift thing...well, what do you wanna do with it? What size tire? Remember, if you don't wanna spend too much money FIXING stuff, just settle on a modest tire size, beef up your suspension a bit (reinforcements...not lifts) and then wheel with what you have. I guarantee you'll be surprised what you can do. Then, once you have some experience under your belt, you'll KNOW when it's time to go bigger.
Then, once you've fixed all the minor problems, grab some headers, an exhaust and even a mild cam.
As far as the lift thing...well, what do you wanna do with it? What size tire? Remember, if you don't wanna spend too much money FIXING stuff, just settle on a modest tire size, beef up your suspension a bit (reinforcements...not lifts) and then wheel with what you have. I guarantee you'll be surprised what you can do. Then, once you have some experience under your belt, you'll KNOW when it's time to go bigger.
02-19-2007, 09:36 AM
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If you're dead set on rebuilding a motor, buy a junkyard block and rebuild it and leave it on a stand in the garage until you need it. Then you have a spare.
Or rebuild one and put it in the truck and take out the one you have and save it as a spare. Either way it would be nice to have a running engine laying around when and if you need it.
Or rebuild one and put it in the truck and take out the one you have and save it as a spare. Either way it would be nice to have a running engine laying around when and if you need it.
02-19-2007, 09:46 AM
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I might've missed this...but do you have any specific problems with your motor? If not, you're REALLY...REALLY wasting your time rebuilding it, as for one, the 22re is a very realiable motor (with proper maintenance). Therefore, I suggest you should just research everything maintenance related on your truck and establish a baseline on how things are running.
Then, once you've fixed all the minor problems, grab some headers, an exhaust and even a mild cam.
As far as the lift thing...well, what do you wanna do with it? What size tire? Remember, if you don't wanna spend too much money FIXING stuff, just settle on a modest tire size, beef up your suspension a bit (reinforcements...not lifts) and then wheel with what you have. I guarantee you'll be surprised what you can do. Then, once you have some experience under your belt, you'll KNOW when it's time to go bigger.
Then, once you've fixed all the minor problems, grab some headers, an exhaust and even a mild cam.
As far as the lift thing...well, what do you wanna do with it? What size tire? Remember, if you don't wanna spend too much money FIXING stuff, just settle on a modest tire size, beef up your suspension a bit (reinforcements...not lifts) and then wheel with what you have. I guarantee you'll be surprised what you can do. Then, once you have some experience under your belt, you'll KNOW when it's time to go bigger.
Thank you for this advice! The motor runs fine most of the time. It idles really rough and even thought the oil level is good the oil light starts to flash when it idles. Also, the engine will rev up and let down and rev up and let down when I come to stop. It only does this if I drive faster than 50 miles and hour or so and than come to a stop.
As far as the lift goes, I just got a set of 28s for her yesterday and i'll run those untill I need tires. I have 2 other sets of wheels though, and one of them will run 33x12.50s. I really want it to be as wide as possible because of the body lift. I want to do a full axle swap at some point in the future. It has IFS now and I want a solid axle. I also want full size axles. It seems that as long its all apart I may as well do a suspension lift. That way I can get the body lift out, which is lame, and still fun my larger tires. Not to mention the clearance. I really want to be able to go anywhere at all. By the time This thing is done i'll have a second car to rely on and thats when i'll really start wheeling.
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