New motor break-in
#1
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New motor break-in
I have a freshly rebuilt 22re.
I ran SAE 30 conventional oil for initial startup, and seating the rings. I the drained the oil and changed the filter, replacing with 15w 40 Rotella for the first few hundred miles.
Questions-
How far can I go before I need to change the oil again?
When should I check the head bolts? and is once enough, or should they be checked often?
I ran SAE 30 conventional oil for initial startup, and seating the rings. I the drained the oil and changed the filter, replacing with 15w 40 Rotella for the first few hundred miles.
Questions-
How far can I go before I need to change the oil again?
When should I check the head bolts? and is once enough, or should they be checked often?
#3
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I did mine 15w 40 at 20, 700, and will again at 3k (been driving it like I stole it so it breaks in like that, break it in like you want it to run when broke in and will run 100%) then I will go to AMSOIL full syn for the life of the motor.
Headbolts should be checked retorqued within the first 1-200 miles, check the valves within the first 1-200 miles and you can check the headbolts at the same time
Headbolts should be checked retorqued within the first 1-200 miles, check the valves within the first 1-200 miles and you can check the headbolts at the same time
Last edited by olharleyman; 11-12-2009 at 10:35 PM.
#4
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I guess I made the mistake of switching to synthetic after ~1200 miles. I am incidentally seeing quite a bit of oil loss, but believe this is due to more significant issues (valve seals)... woh woh wohhhhhhh
#5
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An article that includes the zinc issue: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html
That sucks.
I saw a post in another forum advising to add a can of GM EOS to the oil for initial break-in. Any thoughts on that?
Any preferences for cam assembly lube?
That sucks.
I saw a post in another forum advising to add a can of GM EOS to the oil for initial break-in. Any thoughts on that?
Any preferences for cam assembly lube?
#6
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Here is an interesting write-up of what needs to be lubed with what for break-in. It's by a company pushing their products, but the info in general makes sense: http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief12%2...20Break-in.pdf
#7
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I have a freshly rebuilt 22re.
I ran SAE 30 conventional oil for initial startup, and seating the rings. I the drained the oil and changed the filter, replacing with 15w 40 Rotella for the first few hundred miles.
Questions-
How far can I go before I need to change the oil again?
When should I check the head bolts? and is once enough, or should they be checked often?
I ran SAE 30 conventional oil for initial startup, and seating the rings. I the drained the oil and changed the filter, replacing with 15w 40 Rotella for the first few hundred miles.
Questions-
How far can I go before I need to change the oil again?
When should I check the head bolts? and is once enough, or should they be checked often?
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#8
I used rotella 15w40 at first.Its way to thick.Rattled for a couple of seconds at startup.Switched to 5w40 rotella after about 1500 miles.Much better.The zinc content is not what it used to be even in rotella so I suplement with redline zinc additive.Lubriplate makes a good engine assembly lube.I changed engine oil at 500 miles on my break in,then another 500 after that.And I never retorqued my head bolts.Runs like a champ.
#10
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ENGNBLDR recommended me to use Valvoline 10-30. during initial and really any time because it has a higher zinc content in it than others.
He had also said, change it after the first 20-30 minute cam breakin, then again at 500, and again at 1500, and again at 3000. And do not use synthetic till at least 5000 miles. This would include the 5-40 rotella which is synthetic unlike the 15-40 synthetic.
He had also said, change it after the first 20-30 minute cam breakin, then again at 500, and again at 1500, and again at 3000. And do not use synthetic till at least 5000 miles. This would include the 5-40 rotella which is synthetic unlike the 15-40 synthetic.
#11
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