Myron

Today i noticed that there was a rubber tube missing from my truck. I could not trace where the other end went to. Maybe you guys can help me out.

The next thing is that, i have lost a tremendous amount of pressure from my brakes. My truck still stops but i have to push the pedal all the way. It never used to be like that. I checked and filled the reservoirs and still having that problem.

so any help would be awesome.

Justinvd

And this is on your 1987 p/u? 22R-E i assume. Its a vacume hose i think, when i go to the movies later ill look at mine, sorry im too lazy to do it right now, there are alot of stairs between here and my truck. As for ur brakes, are u loosing brake fluid anywhere? is the vacume line hooked up to your booster? have u gotten i worked recently?

Myron

i only lost pressure the other day, that line has been disconnected longer than that

thook

That part is the the A/C idle up valve. It also helps regulate the power steering vacuum pull. What goes into the tube is a spring loaded screw, though....not a vac hose. Makes for a nice vacuum leak, now...

To add......do you see on the idle up valve where you have a cap on the port coming from the side? It's just below that hex head. There should be a vac line running from it to the power steering pump. On the pump, there should a cylindrical, shiny aluminum valve with two ports. The line runs to there. But, notice to the left of the idle up valve....about 1-2in's....is another hex head threaded into the plenum. There should be an open port that threads there instead so that yet another vac line connects there and runs to the second port on the cylindrical pump valve. This idles the engine up when making tight turns at low rpms. It makes it easier on your pump and engine.

As far as the brakes go, it's hard to say. Have you tried bleeding them, yet? Sounds like a wheel cylinder or both may have given out or blown a hole in a line. You might just have to start pulling things apart and have a look. Keep an eye out for brake fluid leaking anywhere.

just a 22re

yeah what thook said but to speed things up and find weak spots truck off and pump them brakes then stand on them and if they slowly go to the floor theres a leak if not then it might be a master going our or the cly going out but try the pump and stand first and see if there any fluid coming out anywheres

wardriver

P.S. Brake fluid eats paint so be careful where you put those used shop rags.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Take your truck into a place that does free brake inspections and then fix yourself. Lots of things could be causing your issues with the brakes.

Crawdad

Yep. Bad booster, bad master cylinder, air in the lines, busted soft lines, messed up caliper, brake pads that need replacement. How does your brake fluid look, color-wise? Is it nice and clear, or is it brown? If it's brown, flush the system.

This is the procedure that I would do (for any brake problem, really):

I would top off the reservoir, bleed the brakes, starting with the passenger's side rear tire, then the driver's side rear, then passenger front, the driver's front.

If the pedal is still low, then I would tighten the adjusters on the rear brakes. See the FSM for how to, it's easy, and can be done with the wheels on.

Then, pull the front wheels and check the pads. Replace them if they're getting thin. Note uneven wear - one brake pad that is much more worn than the other indicates a problem in the caliper.

Check the soft lines while you're in there, the ones that run from the caliper to the hard lines. If they are cracked or splitting or any any other way coming apart, they need to be replaced.

From there, move up to the master cylinder. Make sure it's not leaking, and the cap is tight and making a seal.

Then, check the brake booster. Start the engine, let it run for a few minutes, and then shut it off. Slowly pump the brakes. Each time you press them, they should build up, and get harder to press each time. If they don't, then the brake booster is going bad.

With the engine off, stand on the brake pedal. It should stay in the same spot, if it begins to slowly go down, the brake booster is going bad.

Lastly, check the brake booster under load. With the engine on, press the pedal all the way down, and then shut the engine off. The pedal should not rise or fall, it should stay in the same place. If it doesn't, the brake booster is going bad.

There are more things to look at, but this is the general procedure I follow when checking for brake problems.

Myron

Thanks for all the info..I do not have P/S.
I will try and check that Ac Vac line again.
I took a look out side and could not find where the ac vac line connected to.
If you could use my image and draw a line or arrow for the where abouts..that would be awesome. I a, also going through the 85 FMS to see if i can get any pics




Thanks for the help..

thook

Alright....well, if you don't have P/S, then nevermind all that.

The a/c vac lines go to that switching valve on the top of the valve cover in the second pic. It has two vac lines connected to and an electrical connection. That part of your system is all hooked up correctly. But, you idle up valve should look like this...



You see the white hex head and spring on the valve?

Myron

Sweet...Got it...by any chance do you know the part number and when i get it..How do i adjust it? screw it in half way..or all the way

Myron

okay so i checked the brake lines and there are no leaks..NOTHING..so my next step i took off the front wheels and changed the brake pads.
This was the first time doing this on this truck. it was odd for me due to the fact, I did not expect fluid to seep out of the caliper when i loosened the 4 caliper bolts.
i then noticed that only half of the break caliper came off, i then had to loosen another 2 caliper bolts to take of the other part..that was connected to the brake line. I then cleaned off the calipers and pressed in the pistons and then put a new set of pads on there, put everything back together.
Filled the reservoir up because fluid had leaked out...BTW my fluid color is dark brown..I know not good, i will do a flush.
So after putting everything back together, i started up the truck and test the brakes..NO BRAKES..i mean NOTHING..worst than before...NO PRESSURE.
when the truck is turned of and i PUMP at a steady pace..it begins to to build up pressure, then it looses it again.

Now Do i bleed the brake system because i opened up the caliper and could of got air in the system..or is some thing really broken. My e-brake works..lol..
let me know what you guys think..and also what is the best way to bleed this system..Ive done it on my lancer and a friends honda..maybe its different with the truck

All the info you guys have given is GREAT..thanks alot...

CyMoN

ouch you are not supposed to open the caliper up like you did to change the brakes, you only need to remove the retainer spring on the back and knock out the pins then pull the pads out.
make sure you are not leaking fluid from the calipers now you may have to replace the calipers now try searching on the site about bleeding brakes it has been covered hundreds of times on here

Myron

i am not leaking fluid from the calipers, but then again, i don't know if fluid is getting pumped to them...I will search and see what i come up with..I can kick my self now..because i told my self..to ask before i do it..

thanks

Myron

so this sucks, I started bleeding the brakes, i bled the back and everything was good, i then went to the passenger front side and for some reason, there was no fluid been pumped to the front. I tried the sucking method, but noting, tried the bleeding..nothing, now i did notice there is a hissing sound near the master cylinder...so this is what i think..the master cylinder is gone, and thats why nbo fluid is pumped to the front ..but how come there is fluid coming out the back?

what you guys think?

Crawdad

So if you crack the bleeder valve on the front, no brake fluid comes out when you pump the brakes? What about if you disconnect the hard line? If you're getting fluid to the hard line but not out of the bleeder, your caliper is messed up. If you're not getting fluid out of the hard line, you've either got a kink or obstruction in the hard line, or a screwed up master cylinder. Check that hard line for kinks all the way up to the master cyl.

And the best way I have found to bleed brakes is to use two people. One person at the bleeder valve, one person in the vehicle. Have the person in the vehicle pump the pedal a few times, then hold it down as the person at the bleeder valve cracks it open momentarily, and almost immediately closes it back up. Repeat a few times per corner.

This purges air and fluid from the system quick enough that there's almost no chance of any air getting back in.

My girlfriend is very accustomed to bleeding brakes with me. PUMP PUMP HOLD!

Myron

after a few times of pumping..i got a drip out of the bleeder valve..but not normal. What is the best way to check for kinks..do i need to discconect the ard lines..should i start with the one behind the caliper first then make my way to the MC...

I have my wife help me out..thats the only thing she knows how to do with cars..lol...

thanks for the info

Crawdad

Definitely disconnect the hard line where it screws into the caliper. See if there is fluid coming out of that hard line. If no fluid, just follow the line, it will go to a junction block in the middle of the axle, and then up to the master cylinder.

If fluid DOES come out of the hard line but not the bleeder valve, your caliper is screwed up.

Myron

aight..ill check that...might be my caliper since i did take it apart..but then again i had this issue before this caliper and stuff..so ill check the hard lines...then i think im going to the MC

thanks

Myron

Okay so the issue was the master cylinder,
Got a new one,
Bench bled it..put it in...bled the brakes...and all was goood.

thanks for all the help ideas and support