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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
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Need help with a bolt
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Something tells me I'll be working on this truck for a long time..... |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: 60 mi west of Chicago
Posts: 3
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How long did you let the PB Blaster work? Spray the heck out of it and leave it overnight at least. Make sure you get the back side too, if at all possible. Good luck, I believe that's called a banjo fitting. They are a bear!
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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PB blast and a flare nut wrench. Hold the other side in a vice and rock it back and forth.
Also, that's not a banjo fitting, that's just a union. This is a banjo fitting on the bottom of this pic. It's a Celica, but you get the point- it's a Toyota fuel filter: A closer look at a banjo: (For the record, I just snagged that image from Google.)
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My heatercore replacement writeup with pics. -'94 Toyota 4X4, 22re, 31X10.5 BFG M/T's, 5 speed, MC rear bumper. (Winter DD/ off road fun) -'95 BMW M3, modded/suspension, sticky rubber, back road monster (Summer DD) -86.5 Toyota Supra, too much to list. (Never-ending project) Last edited by shaeff; 11-03-2009 at 04:28 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 397
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Man,
That is a bear. Those unions can be a problem. Like was said above, spray it and leave it overnight. DO NOT USE A TORCH. Just in case someone else throws that out there. It is a fuel line... A line wrench will help to hold the hex better. They grab more points than an open end wrench. It looks like you have already bent/crimped the engine side of that line, in the photo. You might have a fuel restriction there. Good luck
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1989 4Runner V6 Auto IFS, 1.5" BJ spacers, 2" OME leaf springs, OME T-bars, 3/4" 4Crawler body lift, 1" 4Crawler front diff drop, ARB Bull Bar, Warn M8000, PIAA driving lights, MC rear bumper, OME shocks f/r, OME steering stabilizer, Total Chaos idler arm, 33x10.5.x15 BFG AT's on RockCrawler 15x8"x4.5"BS wheels, Downey Headers, Flowmaster 70 series, 5.29 gears, LockRights f/r Build Thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f191/outlawm...thread-187558/ |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Originally, I thought I had crimped the engine side, but on further inspection, I noticed that it seems like that's been curved on purpose. The line curves up, following the body shape of the underside of the truck. Of course..maybe it is crimped. >.< I reaaallly hope not. What does this line go to? Something in the fuel injector I suppose? probably have to replace another 160 dollar part lol.
Actually, someone did mention using heat. I found myself laying under the truck on a piece of thin wood panelling that had been rather well soaked with some gas a couple days prior, looking at a fuel line coated with pb blaster, and decided to put the lighter away. Haha. When you say a line wrench, do you mean the...round side of the wrench? I've tried fitted wrenches, and putting some channel locks on this thing to hold it down. Nothing is turning these suckers. Does anyone know if it's possible to cut the rubber part of the hose and simply..replace the "union" bolt/nut/thingy?
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Something tells me I'll be working on this truck for a long time..... |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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On a side thought. If that IS crimped...Would squeezing it a bit on the sides like..open it back up maybe?
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Something tells me I'll be working on this truck for a long time..... |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern Colorado :-(
Posts: 1,291
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Might make it worse. Sort of like when you squeeze a soda can, and then squeeze it just opposite of where you did to try and round it out, sometimes the can can weaken and split open. The same might happen here. If worse comes to worse, you can always just cut that section out and replace it with a rubber hose, can't you?
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1989 Toyota pickup 22re - K&N filter with custom air intake |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 11
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that line looks very similar to a break line you might be able to swap it out with one. NAPA usually carries them unbent and you have to hand bend them yourself to whatever shape you need. The bad part is your going to need to find out where that other end is. That's a worst case scenario though. It would be easier to cut it and run a hose.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 1,664
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do not use pb blaster or wd-40.
use a mix of transmission fluid and acetone. It works 1000 times better than either of those. mix it up, rub it on and let it sit overnight. can reduce the breaking power from 500 ft-lb to 20 ft-lb.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 226
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When I did this I cut the hard line up to the fitting and put a socket wrench on that side and a line wrench on the other. Use cheater pipe and patience, no sweat.
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3.0 V6, 5-speed, 4x4, 200,xxx, Daily Driver |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Just North of Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,899
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That can be a real pain in the butt...I just took a small pipe cutter and cut it out. Mine was leaking though.
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"""The Official Unofficial build thread!""" 92 std cab 22RE 5 spd 4x4 268 Engnbldr Cam 3"Intake w/ cone 31X10.5----4.10's Purchased 11/08 @125K miles Great find first project Toy 95 SR5 4Runner 3.Slow Auto :-( 4x4 (5 spd someday) 33X12.50----4.88's LC Coils She's raked a bit now 5/09 Traded a 1980 CB 750 for it!!! Yeah for me... 106K miles IFS Club #2 |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 778
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Quote:
o.0
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1987 Toyota Pickup DLX. 30" Cooper Discoverer S/T's. 1" AAL lift and Tbar crank. and two KC HiLites. IFS Club #5 1978 Camaro Z28, 454 Big Block V8 with a 4 Speed. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I've done that a few times. I also know a sweet old mechanic's trick for loosening things that absolutely refuse to break free. Works better than the acetone and tranny fluid mix.For sure. ![]() For what it's worth, I finally have to replace my hardline from the tank to the filter. I replaced the pump hanger about 4 years ago. My fuel line has been patched since then, and it's SUPER crusty now. I get a wicked discount at my dealership. List price for the hardline is $54.02, I paid $29.71 for it. Totally worth every penny. ![]() If anyone's wondering, it's P/N: 7720535170- Tube sub-assy, fuel- for my '94 4x4 short bed. It'll be nice to have a brand new line on there just for piece of mind, as I take the truck on three four hour each-way trips.
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My heatercore replacement writeup with pics. -'94 Toyota 4X4, 22re, 31X10.5 BFG M/T's, 5 speed, MC rear bumper. (Winter DD/ off road fun) -'95 BMW M3, modded/suspension, sticky rubber, back road monster (Summer DD) -86.5 Toyota Supra, too much to list. (Never-ending project) |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Just North of Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,899
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12345
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"""The Official Unofficial build thread!""" 92 std cab 22RE 5 spd 4x4 268 Engnbldr Cam 3"Intake w/ cone 31X10.5----4.10's Purchased 11/08 @125K miles Great find first project Toy 95 SR5 4Runner 3.Slow Auto :-( 4x4 (5 spd someday) 33X12.50----4.88's LC Coils She's raked a bit now 5/09 Traded a 1980 CB 750 for it!!! Yeah for me... 106K miles IFS Club #2 |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern Colorado :-(
Posts: 1,291
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__________________
1989 Toyota pickup 22re - K&N filter with custom air intake |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Just North of Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,899
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One, two, three, four, five
Hunt the hare and turn her down the rocky road and all the way to Dublin, whack-fol-la-de-da! Didn't like what I had posted... Ok now get on with it. We have not heard from the OP for a bit. Wonder if he got it? Cut it, compression fit it and move on.
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"""The Official Unofficial build thread!""" 92 std cab 22RE 5 spd 4x4 268 Engnbldr Cam 3"Intake w/ cone 31X10.5----4.10's Purchased 11/08 @125K miles Great find first project Toy 95 SR5 4Runner 3.Slow Auto :-( 4x4 (5 spd someday) 33X12.50----4.88's LC Coils She's raked a bit now 5/09 Traded a 1980 CB 750 for it!!! Yeah for me... 106K miles IFS Club #2 |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 1,664
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__________________
Proud sponsor of the re-poster thread. Where there is Substance. http://www.yotatech.com/f5/you-re-poster-193103/ |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I drove the truck again today- I've got a nasty leak. The frame rail is soaked with gas. I'll be pulling the box this weekend.
__________________
My heatercore replacement writeup with pics. -'94 Toyota 4X4, 22re, 31X10.5 BFG M/T's, 5 speed, MC rear bumper. (Winter DD/ off road fun) -'95 BMW M3, modded/suspension, sticky rubber, back road monster (Summer DD) -86.5 Toyota Supra, too much to list. (Never-ending project) |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Alrighty...I'm not sure about the rubber hose thing. I've now realized this is the main fuel line. Lol I'm so new to all of this stuff, I'm not comfortable trying most of this stuff on my own. As for that breakup solution of Transmission fluid and Acetone..where did you learn that? I think I'm going to try that. I was also thinking about simply replacing the hardline but a friend of mine that fixes up toyota pick ups for a living reccomended against it. On sunday he's going to come out with parts from his shop and help me get it off.
The transmission and acetone. Do you mix it in equal parts? Is it diluted with anything? Will it work if I just pour it over it and let it sit? And...where the hell do I get acetone?
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Something tells me I'll be working on this truck for a long time..... |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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My dad taught me the acetone tranny fluid trick. Lots of old timers use it. Mix it 50/50. It's best if you can let the stuck part sit in the solution, but dripping it over will work, too.
__________________
My heatercore replacement writeup with pics. -'94 Toyota 4X4, 22re, 31X10.5 BFG M/T's, 5 speed, MC rear bumper. (Winter DD/ off road fun) -'95 BMW M3, modded/suspension, sticky rubber, back road monster (Summer DD) -86.5 Toyota Supra, too much to list. (Never-ending project) |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Also. cut it, compression fit it? umm..Not..sure what that means or how to do it, but if it lasts for three years when done right, I'd really like to know what to do.
__________________
Something tells me I'll be working on this truck for a long time..... |
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#22 (permalink) | |||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 1,664
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() Quote:
Compression fitting >>
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Proud sponsor of the re-poster thread. Where there is Substance. http://www.yotatech.com/f5/you-re-poster-193103/ |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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If I've crimped the line though, would that mean I'd have to replace it? Or can the fuel still get through? I'm now more worried about that bend I put into the line, then the broken fuel hose piece i need to get out of the other end. I'm going to go ahead and do the ATF-Acetone mixture. probably raise some container up to the piece on a jack, and fill it, let it soak and see what happens. I'll post the results. Anyone know where to get Acetone..I'm not quite sure wtf that is.
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Something tells me I'll be working on this truck for a long time..... |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 778
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Acetone? Check the paint department at like home depot or lowes.
__________________
1987 Toyota Pickup DLX. 30" Cooper Discoverer S/T's. 1" AAL lift and Tbar crank. and two KC HiLites. IFS Club #5 1978 Camaro Z28, 454 Big Block V8 with a 4 Speed. |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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>.< Acetone and ATF didn't do a thing. I think I'm just going to replace this damn hardline. lol screw it! I wasn't able to get my friend to help me out. I had to go to some wedding. So still it sits....no progress. >.<
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Something tells me I'll be working on this truck for a long time..... |
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