Smokecdxx

First off I've searched the interweb and this and many other sites aimlessly. I'm not familiar with toyotas so I'm having trouble finding the exact information I need. So please be kind to me.The truck a 95 4runner 3.0 4x4 5speed 153k bought from the original owner had been sitting for about 2 years wasn't running. I added new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and fresh gas and got it running ok at best. Then I just couldn't get it to start one day and I couldn't hear the fuel pump so I tried the paper clip trick and got it started. Got the injectors cleaned and got a new fuel filter. No change. Still ran sluggish, randomly sounding like it was misfiring, hesitated on acceration, and had no power at all I couldn't go up any hills at all reguardless of the grade.I did a compression test just to make sure it wasn't leaking 155-160 all around. I then advanced the timing via the distributor and it ran great for a week. Then when trying to leave the store it wouldn't start and died 5 times before getting home (less than a mile). It started throwing a code 12. After that I started my quest for an answer found some on here. I've tested the ignition coil and exchanged the cap and rotor and wires for new and changed the plugs. Pulled the distributor to check for shaft play got everything reassembled correctly and not the beast won't start at all. And I'm currently at a loss. I was about to replace the timing belt, pulleys, water pump, and tensioner just because they propably need it. I figured I'd try this site first and see what you guys had to say before I dive any deeper into my pockets and I'm gonna have it slightly disassembled for the belt anyways so why not ask.

Thanks for any that respond.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps you got the distributor in wrong.

If this sat for 2 years I think I would want to check fuel pressure . varnish on the fuel pump sock could be effecting flow .

Just how much fuel was in the tank??

Then why was it parked for 2 years .

Smokecdxx

The truck sat because the original owner got a new truck and was going to give this truck to his son didn't want it so I bought it from him. And the distributor idea is a possibility I re-did it a few times to make sure but I could try it again. And the pump sock ill have to look at. I know they are cheap maybe I'll just replace

Sturmcrow

Two things. If you pull the distributor, you should set the engine to TDC first. Its easy to put the distributor back in correctly if the engine is at TDC and kinda a pain in the butt to put the engine there if the distributor is off. You can line up the marks on the crank, but then you only have a 50% chance that it is actually at TDC (so if it still doesn't start you can rotate it one full revolution and it should be then).

Just in case you don't know, the 4-runners have an access hatch for the fuel pump. Our trucks do not, so you lucked out there.

Smokecdxx

Where is said access hatch?

Smokecdxx

The distributor was the issue of it not starting. And I found the panel.

Sturmcrow

Good stuff, glad to hear you got it straightened out.

I've never actually seen the access hatch myself, so could not comment to the location. I seem to recall that it is under the back seat. Was that your experience?

91 4Runner

Only 1st gen 4Runners had the hatch. In order to get to the sock on a 2nd gen you need to drop the tank - OR make yourself a hatch. I've done it on my old 4Runner and probably will on this one.

Smokecdxx

Panel I found was not for the pump it looked like some sort of fuel line disconnect. But now it dies as soon as I get it started unless I feather it to life but sounds terrible Backfiring and trying real hard to die. Then it takes a while before I can even start it back up

Sturmcrow

You probably should check out your fuel system. There are writeups on this site for how to check the fuel pressure at the motor, which is likely where you want to measure it. It sounds like you have good spark and compression, so the only other options are timing or fuel. It could be that you need to change the fuel filter or the fuel pump sock.

bone collector

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

read and use wisely

Gamefreakgc

I concur. When old vehicles sit for long periods of time, you can get fuel line deterioration, rust and foreign contaminants that normal use would protect against. The fuel screen around the fuel pump may be clogged, I've seen that before on vehicles that have sat for a long time. Or your may have leaking or clogged fuel lines. Double check that when it's running or off, you do not smell any fuel vapors. If you do, there's a leak.

Smokecdxx

Ok so I can get it to consistently start wants to die for the most part unless feathering the throttle. I don't smell gas but it shuts down immediately if I take Fp +B jumper off. I made a video but I'm uncertain of the best way to upload it.

Smokecdxx

Dropped and cleaned the tank. There was hardly and debris in the tank and the sock/strainer is clean. Still replacing it though. Is there any way to test the fuel pump with it out? I also removed the throttle body and cleaned it. Tested the TPS and it was within spec. Starting to narrow it down but still can't figure out why the pump wont turn on without the jumper installed, any thoughts? The above manual that Bone Collector linked up doesn't say what the specs should be for the circuit opening relay or I would check ASAP. Any other causes for this problem? I'm letting the tank dry overnight so I have some time before re-install begins.

Thanks in advance guys

Smokecdxx

So upon assembling the tank back together I noticed the small fuel hose that connects the pump to the bracket was deteriorated pretty bad. Rubber was gooey and split the length of the hose and the mesh underneath had a 1/4 inch hole in it. I replaced the hose installed the tank. And wouldn't you know it started up and is running like a champ. The COR still doesn't work but I just have I jumped until I find a good one.

Thanks everyone I hope this helps someone else one day!