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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: san antonio, tx
Posts: 10
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My 91 4runner, 4x4 issues
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#2 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 8,368
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Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. The ADD system that engages the front axle is vacuum actuated, so when you press the gas, you have enough vacuum to vercome the leak, but at idle you don't.
The "4WD" indicator is linked to the lever that engages the front axle, so it's a very good indicator of if you're actually in 4WD. Search for ADD, vacuum, etc
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Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Alhambra CA.
Posts: 395
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CHeck this out...
This is what your ADD vacuum controller looks like, Its on the passenger side fender.
The top hoses goe to a little tank under the passenger fender as a resurve, the bottom hoses got to the diff. Check all the hoses are connected right and have no cracks. The little blue thing in the picture is a oneway valve, Make sure its working properly by blowing through it both ways and that it is connected right, This valve keeps the vacuum in the cannister while the engine is throttled. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Montrose, CO
Posts: 637
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You have no traction aid (limited slip or locker) installed in the rear axle so yes your 4WD is working properly--just not working to its potential.
Hi or low range dont matter much if your wheel speed though the pebble surface was where you wanted it and you had power that you liked. One way to "cheat" the stock lack of traction is to actually apply the brake while staying on the gas when you get stuck. This serves to transfer power away from the wheel that is spinning and to the wheel that has traction. Sometimes a pulse method works best and sometimes steady pressure works best--just play with it. In the rocks if you have the manual transmission, I have had good success doing this with the engine off and using the clutch start cancel feature. The brakes prevent the engine from turning over fast enough in low range to start and it is a good way to effectively lock the axles in slow, creeping situation--say on roll over hill at poukeepsie gulch where one inch either way means complete and total destruction of the cherry 4Runner in an end over end rollover. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Downeast, ME/Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,421
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no, the 4wd is not working properly because there was no power to the front axle. The above advice in regards to the vacuum issues is a good thing to check out. We are assuming you have auto hubs correct?
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 644
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It may not make any difference here, but auto or manual? Make a signature, it will help us diagnose your future problems.
__________________
89 DLX xtra cab 4x4 22re Auto with 210,000, 225 75R 15, Stock except, "new" 2000 toyota cd/radio, rear speakers hidden in the back seat, SR5 instrument cluster, factory clock. dead aftermarket cruise and some matching blue door pockets! New timing chain with Engine builders front end rebuild kit. Tokico RT trekmaster shocks <-like them. I found the turtle in my yard, after mowing over it and it was fine! Old toyota trucks are like turtles: slow, steady and durable. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: san antonio, tx
Posts: 10
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yes the 4runner is the SR5 v6 with manual transmission. i assume they are ADD cause i dont need to unlock anything to 4wheel. Well the truck came with aftermarket wheels, which cover the hubs. but i assume manual locking hubs wouldnt have the floor shifter in the cabin correct? i will diagnose the vacuum line and see what i can see, hopefully something obvious....doubtful since there is vacuum when i'm on the gas, probably a small leak, we'll see.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Downeast, ME/Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,421
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I have a floor shifter, and manual hubs. It does sound as though you have auto hubs though, even if manual hubs arent locked in the 4wd light still stays on when the t-case shifter is in 4wd.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: san antonio, tx
Posts: 10
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Should there be vacuum coming from both hoses going to the differential?
Top hose has vacuum the bottom doesnt. other than that all hoses seem to be ok. anything else? Thanks again guys Last edited by AsahiMan; 08-06-2006 at 04:18 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Alhambra CA.
Posts: 395
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...... ok, Here goes.
In the picture there are 2 cellenoids. THe Blue one is the ADD off, And has power when the transfercase is in 2H and cause a vacuum at one of the hoses at the diff. The Blue one turns off when the put into 4H/L The Red one is ADD on and has power when the T-case is in 4H/L and will cause a vacuum in teh other hose at the diff. The red one is normaly off when in 2H. BTW, I have ADD and My avatar is an example of what Manual hubs looks like, If you dont have the little twisty dials on your front wheels then yours is auto hubs, Has nothing to do with ADD ( Which you do have ) only the year of the vehical does. Also in general all pre-electric 4x4 tranfercases have the shifter on the floor. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ameliasburgh, On. Ca.
Posts: 620
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Check the vaccum lines to the actuator. I had an issue like this a few months ago. I would have 4x4 sometime and sometimes no. It turned out there was a small leak in the lower hose (when it was covered with dry mud I had vaccum and when it wasn't I had no 4x4) easy fix. Just cut it at the leak and reattach (or if the line is now too short replace line... Hope this helps
__________________
Mostly Stock 90 4Runner SR5 V6 Auto w/ 33" Durango MT's (bent lower valance removed), bush bar w/ 55w Baja Offroad Lights, Custom fit 1st. gen rollbar (used to mount Hi-Lift and fire extinguisher), extended diff breathers, (Comming soon rear spool and 2" body lift..) My very slow buildup on Sontt.com - currently building. http://www.sontt.com/forum/viewtopic...&t=109&start=0 |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Co-Founder/Administrator
Staff
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 26,068
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Guy's, auto hubs last year was '88.
Many confuse auto with ADD, and this is not correct. ADD hubs you do not need to get out and turn the dial, those are manual hubs. ADD hubs you simply move the 4WD lever to 4H and go, up to 50 miles per hour you can do this, hence the phrase "shift on the fly." ADD hubs are the same as having manual hubs locked in all the time, hence parts are moving all the time. That is why many do a manual hub conversion and take off the ADD plates. Auto hubs are crap. Auto hubs often will disengage when you back up on a trail, not good.
__________________
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: san antonio, tx
Posts: 10
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FIXED!! or so it seems. the vacuum lines leading to the diff were reveresed..weird. The 4x4 light now stays on and the truck feels like its is in 4wheel drive now.
maybe this should be stickied. anyway. thanks for the help. i hope i'm not wrong and am in some way tricking the diff or light into thinking its in 4wheel drive. response? |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Montrose, CO
Posts: 637
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Quote:
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