Csbauer

So my parents are not giving me my toyota back cause i had too much fun in it.. but im going to nice and try to help them out still. Toyota has 31 AT's on it with stock gearing, 22RE and a 5speed manual. After going through a couple mud holes i tried repairing the read diff and failed. S

o, the problems are this when warm it idles at 2K on the spot and after driving you can smell gas in the exhaust, plus its getting 110miles to the tank, which would average to ~6mpg... Now from my understanding, even if you cant drive stick and have larger tires on there it shouldnt be THAT bad... I was told it could be a sensor on the EFI, that apparently all toyotas go through once or more in their life time, or could it be O2 sensor?

My thought on this is that if your smelling gas in the exhaust your running very rich and not burning all the gas. So its some how getting past the O2 sensor which could be bad or the valves/springs are just bad enough where gas of that much volume can seep past.

The other thought would be that something in the EFI is feeding too much gas into the system and computer isnt compensating...

tell me if im wrong, or some other ideas or the solution cause 6mpg is just ty even for a 4cyl with slightly larger tires...

tnevy4

your timing could be off. have you had you head machined in the past because i had mine machined too much and it made it impossible to get in time so i had to get a new one

desertcox05

for starters
ck operation of egr valve
ck timing
ck vlv adjustment
I'm getting about 14mpg's with the same setup as you.
I'm aslo running rich according to the tail pipe and emissions tests.
I'm wondering if my exhaust leaks have anything to with running rich.
I've replaced nearly everything else except ignition related.
good luck
I do have over 300,000 mi on origional motor though.

Csbauer

I have not had the head machined, but i did have the timing chain replaced some 3000 miles ago and when that was done i didnt have this problem at all. I only really noticed this after i fixed the blown 80amp fuse a new battery that were bad cause it forded through water up to the hood line... that would be a sign that something went wrong??


Timing should be spot on but i will have that done cause its been at least 3000 miles, as for EGR how would i check that?

As for valve adjustment i would need to take the valve cover off and have the correct shim and then rotate the cam to have the lobe directly below the valve so there is no tension on the spring and tighten correct? thats what i found for a honda 4cyl at least. the specs are going to be different and should be in the Haynes manual or online somewhere on here etc.

I also have roughly 279,000+ on the original motor and tranny so thats why i thought valves.

desertcox05

I followed vlv adj procedure in haynes manual. the hardest part about it was getting to the valve cover. mark all the vacuum hoses very well.

the egr vlv has a sense tube that likes to get clogged with sludge.

Matt16

Was there an event that caused the truck to start getting bad mileage? You said your diff was screwed, did you go in a mud hole somewhere and get water in everything? That would help us out.

Csbauer

For some reason i thought i had made mention of this, but i did not (sorry guys) but yes i actually did submerge it a couple times up to at least the hood line. That is what caused my 80amp fuse and starter to stop working on me and which had to be towed home. After it being home and getting those parts replaced it started right up. After going in the mini pond i guess you can call it i did take the distributor off cleaned it where it needed and cleaned out the air filter. I should then make mention that i am not by the car what so ever so testing will have to wait 2 weeks till i get home from college.

Csbauer

I have taken the valve cover off a couple times because of a gasket leak there and then not properly laying it down and yea... well i can get it off and i have done it, but watching and reading online made it seem that it wouldnt be hard at all to do a valve adjustment.

Csbauer

ok update... i get the TRUCK... but since being home and driving the idle has gone down from 2500 to 1000 rpms... so??? im confused... all i did was wipe dirt away from the o2 sensor holes. Wet MAF??

Im going to get looking at the EGR and my vaccum tubes this week so hopefully i can figure this out.