sethmcalister

My lspv on my 89 pickup crapped out so I have no rear brakes. Anybody know where I can get one for cheap so I don't have to deal with the dealer. Or, how hard is it to install a manual proportioning valve and it is legal?

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4Crawler

Used:
- http://www.car-part.com/

Manual PV:
- http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...9e20181af26d3b

__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad
Gettin'Off 4WD Club

fillsrunner4

Easy! and yes it is legal. Perfect for rear disks too! Frontrange sells summits manual PP

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94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more.

Might as well start reading this if ya want know more
Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread
Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

sethmcalister

So I simply plug in an adapter tube from the master cylinder to the manual valve. Then another adater line to the union and then run it back to my rear brakes? Also, how do adjust how much the rear gets?

Thanks for the help guys.

Yoda

I bought one for my landcruiser.

The instructions say to install and bleed, then adjust til the rear brakes lock up just AFTER the fronts lock.

On mine, screwed in tight is full pressure, backing it off reduces pressure.

The fittings on mine are SAE, so I will need to cut and double flare tubing

__________________
David
TLCA 14788
71 Landcruiser FJ-40 TBI 327, TH-350, Warn 8000, disk axle swap.
76 Landcruiser FJ-40 project/parts (haven't decided)

sethmcalister

I don't have the tools to flare and have never done it. Still learning many things. Also, how does it affect the emergency brake?

fillsrunner4

Yup



When you look at the brake lines on the pass side you have a split were it sends fluid to the front pass brake and line that feeds to the rear. Take the rear side off the spit conector and cap it off so now the front only controls the front. Then off the new manual propotioning valve run a line directly to the rear brakes off that

Remove the LSVP and have a line go straight to the rear brakes

Sorry if thats kinda confusing but hope it helps some

__________________

94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more.

Might as well start reading this if ya want know more
Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread
Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

Yoda

The e-brakes are cable......not affected

__________________
David
TLCA 14788
71 Landcruiser FJ-40 TBI 327, TH-350, Warn 8000, disk axle swap.
76 Landcruiser FJ-40 project/parts (haven't decided)

sethmcalister

Thanks fillsrunner4, I think I sorta get it. Just never worked on my brakes before but I have to get it inspected. BTW, loved your build.

sethmcalister

I thought so but wasn't positive. Guess, I have to figure that out too. Dang, northeast rustbucket.

fillsrunner4

Thanks man!

Good luck with it. I love the MPP When you buy it from Frontrage they come with some pretty good instructions and once you really think about it and look at it it will make more sence on how it works and all.

Just takes doing it to learn it

__________________

94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more.

Might as well start reading this if ya want know more
Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread
Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

sethmcalister

Thanks for the reinforcement. I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way.

dirtoyboy

You dont need to flare or cut anything...

just buy the kit from FROR and it comes with all the required standard to metric adaptors...


It takes about 30 minutes to install including bleeding.....

Cleans up your rear end (no more valve) and simplifies your brake system (the entire "return" line) is eliminated...very nice addition IMO

__________________
Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler.


Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall!

It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand

Yopar

Here's a pic of mine. I used a flare kit to make the conversion ends clean...ie, cut the metric fittings off and put SAE ones on..

I have a good LSPV that I'll sell you cheap if you want it...PM me.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'87 4runner: fresh 22RE .020, 261c, OME springs/shocks, SDORI, relaxed Ts, 4.88s, TC idler, front Lockright, marlin 1200 clutch, 16" Tacos, 255/85 bighorns, LCE header, magnafloW
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"The Federal Reserve pretends to fight inflation but actually creates it. Inflation is the most insidious tax of all." --- ABOLISH THE FED

dirtoyboy

Heres a pic of mine too...

__________________
Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler.


Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall!

It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand

Flash319

I am not running one and find that it is fine (LSPV or Flow control). The single in flow controls are just that, flow control not pressure reducers (where is the pressure going with only 2 ports?). All they do is delay the rear brakes for a split second as to not lock up first if you pound on them. Drum brakes by nature do not have the same power as disks.
If you want to really do it right you need a 5 port proportioning valve that puts pressure to the front. Just my 2 cents........

__________________
BRAKE LINE NUTS $1 each !!!!!!!(min 10)
PLASTIC COATED BRAKE LINE $1.50/foot
Coated Front brake lines with nuts $10 each

95 22re extra cab, custom box, 4:56, 31inch tires, electric fan, Flat black paint, 4 runner buckets and mirrors


WANTED: aussie or lockright in CANADA!!!

sethmcalister

So you're saying that you simply have to rear brake lines going straight to the drums? I think I may still just get the manual valve when I get a job (damn economy). Fresh out of college and can't get a job.

Also, I ran into a small problem this morning. I was trying to adjust my parking brake for inspection and found that the back nut on my equalizer that adjusts the rear cable to be rusted. So, I cannot tighten or loosen the cable. I am hesitant to take heat to it because it is near gas tank/lines.

Another problem I ran into is that my bellcrank housings (I think) that the e-brake cables connect to are rusted pretty much open. The backing bolts have been rusted and broken off. So, I can't even adjust those.

What do you all think I should do to fix these problems? Thanks by the way for all the help.

Flash319

Ya I just have straight line from master to the back splitter.

As for the rusted e-brake. I would pull the assemblies apart at the wheels and free them up on a bench and cover everything in grease. Fill the boot with grease. As for the other part I am not sure what you are talking about exactly but if you mean where the front cable meats the pivot under the cab you may have no other option but a new cable.

__________________
BRAKE LINE NUTS $1 each !!!!!!!(min 10)
PLASTIC COATED BRAKE LINE $1.50/foot
Coated Front brake lines with nuts $10 each

95 22re extra cab, custom box, 4:56, 31inch tires, electric fan, Flat black paint, 4 runner buckets and mirrors


WANTED: aussie or lockright in CANADA!!!

sethmcalister

It's not actually the rear cable. It is where the cable hooks into the equalizer. There is a back nut and a front nut. You move one to adjust and then the other to tighten and vice versa. I don't have a place to work on this stuff. I just moved into a new apartment and don't know anybody here and I don't really have a place in my apartment. I guess some cardboard will work. I doubt I can get off my backing plate very easily because of the rust though, will be tough.

Flash319

You don't need to take the backing plate off, but you do need to take the drum off. There are 2 bolts from the inside that hole the block on.
I am not sure what you mean by "equalizer"?

The front cable goes from the cab to a lever assebly under the cab.

The back cable meets it there. That is where you adjust the preload of the cable. From there the back cable goes back to a block that splits to single cables to each wheel.

The only adjustment place is under the cab at the lever intersection. the threads are a part of the cable so if You can't turn the nuts the cable is garbage. A new one is $150 at the dealer. I have only been able to get them at the dealer here in canada but have heard guys can get them in the US at autozone or whatever for cheap $70.

__________________
BRAKE LINE NUTS $1 each !!!!!!!(min 10)
PLASTIC COATED BRAKE LINE $1.50/foot
Coated Front brake lines with nuts $10 each

95 22re extra cab, custom box, 4:56, 31inch tires, electric fan, Flat black paint, 4 runner buckets and mirrors


WANTED: aussie or lockright in CANADA!!!

dirtoyboy

The adjuster could very well be seized/rusted with no chance of working...thats how mine was...I had to cut it off and replace with a new one

__________________
Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler.


Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall!

It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand

sethmcalister

That's my problem. Haynes called the assemly the "equalizer". Sorry for the confusion. Looks like I'll need a new adjuster. How much was yours dirtoyboy?

What exactly do you mean by the block?