My lspv on my 89 pickup crapped out so I have no rear brakes. Anybody know where I can get one for cheap so I don't have to deal with the dealer. Or, how hard is it to install a manual proportioning valve and it is legal?

 

Used:
- http://www.car-part.com/

Manual PV:
- http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...9e20181af26d3b

 

Easy! and yes it is legal. Perfect for rear disks too! Frontrange sells summits manual PP

 

So I simply plug in an adapter tube from the master cylinder to the manual valve. Then another adater line to the union and then run it back to my rear brakes? Also, how do adjust how much the rear gets?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

I bought one for my landcruiser.

The instructions say to install and bleed, then adjust til the rear brakes lock up just AFTER the fronts lock.

On mine, screwed in tight is full pressure, backing it off reduces pressure.

The fittings on mine are SAE, so I will need to cut and double flare tubing

 

I don't have the tools to flare and have never done it. Still learning many things. Also, how does it affect the emergency brake?

 

Yup



When you look at the brake lines on the pass side you have a split were it sends fluid to the front pass brake and line that feeds to the rear. Take the rear side off the spit conector and cap it off so now the front only controls the front. Then off the new manual propotioning valve run a line directly to the rear brakes off that

Remove the LSVP and have a line go straight to the rear brakes

Sorry if thats kinda confusing but hope it helps some

 

The e-brakes are cable......not affected

 

Thanks fillsrunner4, I think I sorta get it. Just never worked on my brakes before but I have to get it inspected. BTW, loved your build.

 

I thought so but wasn't positive. Guess, I have to figure that out too. Dang, northeast rustbucket.

 

Thanks man!

Good luck with it. I love the MPP When you buy it from Frontrage they come with some pretty good instructions and once you really think about it and look at it it will make more sence on how it works and all.

Just takes doing it to learn it

 

Thanks for the reinforcement. I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way.

 

You dont need to flare or cut anything...

just buy the kit from FROR and it comes with all the required standard to metric adaptors...


It takes about 30 minutes to install including bleeding.....

Cleans up your rear end (no more valve) and simplifies your brake system (the entire "return" line) is eliminated...very nice addition IMO

 

Here's a pic of mine. I used a flare kit to make the conversion ends clean...ie, cut the metric fittings off and put SAE ones on..

I have a good LSPV that I'll sell you cheap if you want it...PM me.

 

Heres a pic of mine too...

 

I am not running one and find that it is fine (LSPV or Flow control). The single in flow controls are just that, flow control not pressure reducers (where is the pressure going with only 2 ports?). All they do is delay the rear brakes for a split second as to not lock up first if you pound on them. Drum brakes by nature do not have the same power as disks.
If you want to really do it right you need a 5 port proportioning valve that puts pressure to the front. Just my 2 cents........

 

So you're saying that you simply have to rear brake lines going straight to the drums? I think I may still just get the manual valve when I get a job (damn economy). Fresh out of college and can't get a job.

Also, I ran into a small problem this morning. I was trying to adjust my parking brake for inspection and found that the back nut on my equalizer that adjusts the rear cable to be rusted. So, I cannot tighten or loosen the cable. I am hesitant to take heat to it because it is near gas tank/lines.

Another problem I ran into is that my bellcrank housings (I think) that the e-brake cables connect to are rusted pretty much open. The backing bolts have been rusted and broken off. So, I can't even adjust those.

What do you all think I should do to fix these problems? Thanks by the way for all the help.

 

Ya I just have straight line from master to the back splitter.

As for the rusted e-brake. I would pull the assemblies apart at the wheels and free them up on a bench and cover everything in grease. Fill the boot with grease. As for the other part I am not sure what you are talking about exactly but if you mean where the front cable meats the pivot under the cab you may have no other option but a new cable.

 

It's not actually the rear cable. It is where the cable hooks into the equalizer. There is a back nut and a front nut. You move one to adjust and then the other to tighten and vice versa. I don't have a place to work on this stuff. I just moved into a new apartment and don't know anybody here and I don't really have a place in my apartment. I guess some cardboard will work. I doubt I can get off my backing plate very easily because of the rust though, will be tough.

 

You don't need to take the backing plate off, but you do need to take the drum off. There are 2 bolts from the inside that hole the block on.
I am not sure what you mean by "equalizer"?

The front cable goes from the cab to a lever assebly under the cab.

The back cable meets it there. That is where you adjust the preload of the cable. From there the back cable goes back to a block that splits to single cables to each wheel.

The only adjustment place is under the cab at the lever intersection. the threads are a part of the cable so if You can't turn the nuts the cable is garbage. A new one is $150 at the dealer. I have only been able to get them at the dealer here in canada but have heard guys can get them in the US at autozone or whatever for cheap $70.