Blurr

a 1/2" ratchet with a 3' long cheater bar on it. i pretty much did a pullup on the bar before the bolt broke free. the BANG of the bolt breaking free almost gave me a heart attack since i was convinced that i either broke the ratchet, snapped the head off the bolt, or something worse.

with all of the torque i put on those bolts, i wanted to be safe so i went to the dealer and got new ones when it was time for reassembly.

be sure to leverage your tool against the top idler pulley.

Rocketwrencher

I have the 900lb impact in hand. I will stop by the auto parts store and pick up some 1/2" impact sockets on the way home and let you guys know how it turns out. I agree with you Blurr on the idea of replacing the bolts, especially after I hit them with 900 ft\lbs of torque. What did the bolts run you at the dealer?

Blurr

I think the bolts were a few bucks each.

Team420

I have one of these.... They work great.

GSGALLANT

Yes they do... but not for cam bolts.

Rocketwrencher

WOO HOO!!! they are off. It took about a minute of hitting them with the impact but they came off. God, I cant believe how tight they were. No evidence of locktight on the threads either. With the impact, I really didnt even need the tool that I made at work (and still got paid for), but at least I got a pretty good looking tool. My next question is where is the best place to disconnect the fuel line going to the fuel rail so I can remove the intake. You can probably guess why I ask; Damn 3.0 head gaskets. I was going to go 3.4 but time and money are in the way. My son is screaming for his truck. God I cant wait till he graduates!!!

GSGALLANT

Don't be too discouraged about not using that tool... You'll need it to re-torque the bolts. Good job getting them off.

KevinInSac

I just did it at the main inlet on the Pass side rail. Open the gas cap to relieve pressure and disconnect the line. It'll leak fuel, but not much, jsut try to catch it.

You may want to replace the fuel damper on there too. It's a $70 part, but tends to lead itself to leak. That leaking was the only issue I had after my HG rebuild.

Rocketwrencher

Thanks for all the info and support guys. I will keep you informed of my progress and definately let you know if I need more help.

hgill

Hi All,

I am stuck at this step aswell and didnt want to post a new thread on the same topic.

After reading alot, I bought this tool from amazon http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38220-Un.../dp/B0002SQZPO to remove my cam gear bolts and somewhat fits like this:



Unfortunately, the special tool snap'ed (the screw in prong's broke) when I put my full force on the 24inch breaker bar to unbolt the cambolt. Bought new screws and the SST tool is all fixed. All this is with the timing belt off, so I searched around and found that it might be better to put the timing belt on and put the truck in 5th gear and E-Brake and try again with the tool on.

Is this a good idea? I mean I am worried that if I put too much pressure on the belt, will it ruin the belt or camshaft spin and break a tooth? Also, will the cam gear slip?

I found someone who did the same in the below pic:



2. Second Issue, in the above pic, the notch on the cam gear is not at TDC when the bolt was removed, so now, how will the guy above put the crank & cam at TDC since the cam gear bolt is a bit loose and might move/adjust?

Please help?