Rocketwrencher

O.K., I know the trick to loosen the crankshaft bolt with a breaker bar and hitting the ign., but how do you loosen the cam gear bolts on the 3.0? Is it the same process? what would you leverage it against? All help is greatly appreciated.

JDMSLIK

Here's 2 ways

Use a fat screwdrive to leverage against the 10mm bolts behind the gear. WARNING you'll probably mangle the bolts a little but they're not really load bearing so as long as you can still get em in and out your good. Just watch your teeth and knuckles....slow and steady.

I used a door panel prier tool? instead of screwdriver....actually I ended up using two of em....each busted a fork off...but they got the cams off



The proper way, I should've done this at the beginning.

This is a kent moore specialty tool (expensive). You might be able to find a knock off tool somewhere. I've seen em on ebay, just look up cam tool. This ones for subarus but it works on quite a few japanese cam gears. I included a picture of the part number.

swapped89

I used a 500ft lb impact gun to take them off and a smaller one too put them back on. 15,000 miles later they are still on and workin good. (i had to replace the seals behind the cam gears)

JDMSLIK

I can't remember but I think I ran into problems with the impact cause with the rad in, there wasn't enough room. Either way that'll work too.

Rocketwrencher

Thanks for the input guys. I tried the screwdriver method but it kept slipping off the 10mm bolts and did kinda mangle them. I dont think my impact is strong enough because it did not budge them either. I guess I will make up a tool at work like the one pictured. Maybe a crescent wrench with two studs welded onto the tangs, that way it will be adjustable and might work on other applications. I will let you know what I come up with.

Rocketwrencher

By the way, are they righty tighty, lefty loosey, same as the crank bolt? They should be since they turn in the same direction as the crank, right?

GSGALLANT

Yes... They are normal thread. Lefty loosy.

I made a crank pulley holding tool, and it also works for the cam pulleys. As an alternative, instead of using a big screwdriver on those 10mm bolt heads (which will damage them), use a 10mm socket with a long (12") extension on it. put that on one of the 10mm bolt heads and use that to hold the pulley. Make sure you hold it on tight so that it doesn't slip.

Team420

^^ Thats the best way, if you dont have the tool. Although...I kinda like the cresent wrech and welded studs idea too...

krb90

I tried using the 10mm bolts and sheared one of the bolt heads off....impact gun didn't budge them either. Is the timing belt off? Put it on if its off, put it in gear, emerg brake and that will hold pretty good, maybe combine that with prying against the 10mm bold head. Luckily, I had an old oil filter wrench that used a chain similar to a bicycle chain to wrap around the cam gear and a friend to hold (didn't have anything to brace against). When it broke loose, we both went flying backwards....btw, they come factory with lock-tite on them. Also, I would suggest using a boxed in wrench and pipe or another larger wrench for more leverage...if they are as tight as mine were, you're gonna need the leverage and the boxed in wrench has a less chance of boogering up the bold head.

EDIT: the special service tool is available on amazon.com for $20-$30....or at least it used to be.

KevinInSac

I don't get it. After taking off my cam bolts and seeing how fuggin small of a bolt that 10mm was, and how little threads were behind it, I was very glad I didn't try to anchor onto it. I had to put a pipe on the end of the breaker and wedge the proper tool pictured above in the frame. I would cringe at the thought of all that torque being applied to such a very very fine area. If I am not mistaken, you screw up those threads, the head itself is virtually toast. Just do it the right way for once.

Elvota

My recall abilities are rusty... but if you have access to the cam shaft itself, there are flats you can hold with a wrench.

Towards the right in this pic:



Detail:

swapped89

i rented a high powered impact gun from a local auto parts store. if your friends with someone at an automotive shop they might let you borrow theres. it made taking mine off easy as pie.

Rocketwrencher

O.K. Thanks for all the input. Here is what I did. I made this tool at work today out of some flat bar stock and a couple of 3/8" allen bolts and nuts. The reason I used the bolts and nuts is because now the tool is adjustable for depth. It may come in handy on something else. I didnt go the cresent wrench route because I would have had to use at least a 15" wrench and the arent exactly cheap. The only thing I bought for this was the liquid grip stuff. I think it came out pretty good after I blued the steel.



The tool worked like a champ. I was able to tighten the bolts up against the back of the spokes of the pully for a positive lock.
Now the bad news; The friggen cam bolts still would not budge. I bent one wrench and snapped a 3/8" socket adapter. My 3/8'" snap-on impact didnt do it either. Cheater bar was no help. I guess I will be picking up a nice 1/2" impact tomorrow. What a shame, Ha,Ha. I will keep you posted.

Rocketwrencher

One other thing. With the rotational forces of the cams and pulleys working to tighten the bolt everytime it turns, why would Toyota put locktight on them? There is no possible way the bolts would ever spin out with the direction the pulleys spin.

Team420

Tell thet to my buddy who didnt use locktite when he worked on his. What a mess that made.

Rocketwrencher

Are you saying he acually spun the bolt out? Provided the bolt was originally torqued to spec., the cam actually tightens the bolt as it spins. Did the entire cam gear come off as well?

Team420

When he put it back together, he didnt use locktite, and ya, it spun on him. I was not there during the process, but he's pretty good. Maybe just one of those freak things, but toyota obviously put it there for a reason...I say, better safe than sorry.

Blurr

great tool, you did a good job with that! my cam bolts didn't have loc-tite and there wasn't any evidence of loc-tite used in the past.

i broke one socket, a ratchet, and two breaker bars trying to get those suckers off.

Rocketwrencher

What finally did the trick? I am going to try a 900ft\lb impact that we have here at work. If that doesnt do it, I am all out of ideas.

GSGALLANT

Something's wrong if you can't get them off with a (high quality) 1/2" breaker bar, a good 6-point 1/2" drive socket, and a 4 foot piece of pipe (jack handle works nice) for leverage. You might need more leverage on your holding tool as well unless you have a strong friend. 3/8" drive sockets and drivers aren't meant for work like this.