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If you still end up with a fuel leak make sure to check the fuel pulse dampner. It has a small screw under the plastic cap that will work its way loose then leak fuel .....I bought a new one from toyota and did not realize it was just a loose screw.......So now I have a spare lol
If you still end up with a fuel leak make sure to check the fuel pulse dampner. It has a small screw under the plastic cap that will work its way loose then leak fuel .....I bought a new one from toyota and did not realize it was just a loose screw.......So now I have a spare lol
Couldn't decide between "dampener" and "damper"? Fuel Pulsation Damper is correct. The screw has nothing to do with the leaking. There is a rubber diaphragm inside, and the damper leaks when the diaphragm is torn. The screw is there just as a go/no-go check on fuel system pressure.
I have a 88 4runner with 3VZE engine... I don't know if I have blown head gaskets or not so I am seeking advice.... Ok, I got this truck from my dad a few months ago. The truck has been sitting in his backyard for about a year. I drove the truck home but as I was getting off the freeway I noticed I was losing power then the truck shut off... I pulled over let the truck cool. Once it did it started up again but now when I clutch pedal down it lost power and shut off again... Luckily I was next to a circle k so I pushed the truck in and parked it... I took the radiator cap off and added water.... Come to find out the lower radiator hose busted... I replaced it since there was an AutoZone across the street... Once change and with additional water added to the radiator I crank it over and tons of water rushed out the exhaust... I got a tow home... The next day I checked the spark plugs for wetness. The only spark plug of the 4th cylinder had wetness but it smelled like fuel. So I dried it off reinstalled it and it started up with the clutch cancel button enabled of course and with a lil effort and it started. Every time I pushed the clutch in it bogged down and shut off... Then I noticed smoke coming out of the valve cover so I decided to change the valve cover gaskets once I took off the valve covers I noticed milky residue under the drivers side valve cover but not the passengers side.... When I drained the oil from the pan the oil was black as hell but no milky or tan color showed in oil what so ever... Now, since I removed the air intake manifold I accidentally broke the fuel line that went to the fuel rail to the air intake manifold... I'm gonna be heading to the junk yard to find another but before I do I need to find out of I need to change the head gaskets... Did I mention there was oil inside the air intake manifold. But that could have been due to waaaaay to much oil in the motor... White Smoke was coming out of the tailpipe but I'm guessing that was also to due to much oil.... Please I need Help because I don't want to spend unnecessary money because I'm broker than broke... Please no suggestions of swapping motors because I do not have the money for that crap. Lol
"tons of water in the exhaust" means you leaked coolant into the cylinder. While a blown head gasket is a cause of that, if you broke a lower radiator hose and drove it until "it lost power and shut off" you could have cracked the head or even the block.
I would consider doing a leak down test, or at least a compression test, to get some idea of what you are looking at.
Couldn't decide between "dampener" and "damper"? Fuel Pulsation Damper is correct. The screw has nothing to do with the leaking. There is a rubber diaphragm inside, and the damper leaks when the diaphragm is torn. The screw is there just as a go/no-go check on fuel system pressure.
There was a part on a helicopter I used to work on called a dampner. Of course you build something like that and you call it what you want. I was curious though...
"tons of water in the exhaust" means you leaked coolant into the cylinder. While a blown head gasket is a cause of that, if you broke a lower radiator hose and drove it until "it lost power and shut off" you could have cracked the head or even the block.
I would consider doing a leak down test, or at least a compression test, to get some idea of what you are looking at.
I've been following this thread for a few months now while I am also rebuilding my 3vze 5speed. I'm in Australia and the dealers charge us an arm and a leg for parts - It works out cheaper to buy genuine toyota from the states and pay AUD $60-70 post..figure that one out.
Anyway enough rambling. I was just curious if you noticed anything you needed that wasn't included in the gasket sets etc. For example I'm pretty certain I didn't get any oil cooler gaskets in my genuine full gasket kit, no rear cam plugs etc. Did you have a list of "extra" things you needed to purchase? I'm trying to round up all the loose ends. I've got 3 pistons in and when I'm re assembling i don't want to miss anything!
Anyway enough rambling. I was just curious if you noticed anything you needed that wasn't included in the gasket sets etc. For example I'm pretty certain I didn't get any oil cooler gaskets in my genuine full gasket kit, no rear cam plugs etc. Did you have a list of "extra" things you needed to purchase? I'm trying to round up all the loose ends. I've got 3 pistons in and when I'm re assembling i don't want to miss anything!
All of my rebuild stuff should be arriving in the next few days. I will sort through it and help you out if Lola hasn't responded by then.
Hi Lola, I've been following this thread for a few months now while I am also rebuilding my 3vze 5speed. I'm in Australia and the dealers charge us an arm and a leg for parts - It works out cheaper to buy genuine toyota from the states and pay AUD $60-70 post..figure that one out. Anyway enough rambling. I was just curious if you noticed anything you needed that wasn't included in the gasket sets etc. For example I'm pretty certain I didn't get any oil cooler gaskets in my genuine full gasket kit, no rear cam plugs etc. Did you have a list of "extra" things you needed to purchase? I'm trying to round up all the loose ends. I've got 3 pistons in and when I'm re assembling i don't want to miss anything! Thanks mate!
Hi just finishing a re build on my 3.0 , if your rod bolts and head bolts are torque to yield plan on replacing them
I've been following this thread for a few months now while I am also rebuilding my 3vze 5speed. I'm in Australia and the dealers charge us an arm and a leg for parts - It works out cheaper to buy genuine toyota from the states and pay AUD $60-70 post..figure that one out.
Anyway enough rambling. I was just curious if you noticed anything you needed that wasn't included in the gasket sets etc. For example I'm pretty certain I didn't get any oil cooler gaskets in my genuine full gasket kit, no rear cam plugs etc. Did you have a list of "extra" things you needed to purchase? I'm trying to round up all the loose ends. I've got 3 pistons in and when I'm re assembling i don't want to miss anything!
Thanks mate!
I'm trying to pull together all the things I picked up for the whole rebuild to get a good total price estimate on things. I'll post it, but I think you'll be done with your engine before i get to that!
The gasket kit I got didn't have the fuel rail gaskets, though I believe the genuine Toyota one does...at least based on this image from a vendor. This thread had a lot of the gaskets that came with the Toyota kit identified if you need help (I did!) the Toyota gasket kit doesn't come with the camshaft front and rear seals? That seems odd, but yeah, I don't see them in the diagram.
separate things I remember picking up from Toyota
*water bypass hoses that had hardened
*lifter shims that I didn't have the right sizes for
*fuel rail crush washers
*knock sensor wire
*misc parts that broke during disassembly/were missing (e.g. TVV valve, vacuum hoses that had holes
*new upper and lower radiator hoses
*distributor rotor, cap, wires
*some exhaust nuts (some of the studs came out with the nuts, so I replaced them with bolts instead)
*PCV valve and hose and grommet
things I didn't get from Toyota
*fuel injector rebuild kit (ebay)- the Toyota kit only had a few of the o-rings. this one came with complete o-ring set and new filters (http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Toyota-4Runner-Kit.html)
*my gasket kit (still OEM) -included main & rod bearings, head bolts, a lot of the gaskets that the Toyota kit had, pistons, oil pump, freeze plugs (I already had some of the parts, so I had them throw together a "custom" kit with what I didn't have, but here's the website: http://www.yotashop.com/search.php?search_query=kit1093)
*piston rings (vendor: Northern Auto; brand: Hastings)
*timing belt component kit (with water pump and pulleys- vendor: RockAuto; brand Aisin, Koyo, Mitsuboshi)
trying to think of anything else...if tomorrow is slower at work, I'll try to gather up all my online orders and organize them. Hope the rebuild is going well!
Originally Posted by dbd6604
All of my rebuild stuff should be arriving in the next few days. I will sort through it and help you out if Lola hasn't responded by then.
>_< yeah, haven't been logging in as often since I've been back to work full time!
Last edited by LolaL; 09-14-2015 at 03:59 PM.
Reason: added links
a few weeks ago, I popped the hood after coming home from somewhere so I could check the fluids (I made the mistake of NOT constantly checking the fluids on the sentra after rebuild and totally missed rings not sealing/oil consumption >_
Last edited by LolaL; 09-23-2015 at 08:53 AM.
Reason: having a lot of problems with this post for some reason.
What about oil cooler? Just pulled mine and completely plugged. Can they be cleaned and tested for flow? Thx if anyone out there has any exp or info
mine was also clogged. I used a combination of water and compressed air to clear out the passages until water flowed through freely. Replaced the hoses and the gaskets and washers.
So water flows freely through it?? wow mine is really clogged then, I had it hooked to garden hose n nothing. I think its stop leak
pretty sure water should flow freely through it. It's an oil cooler, so oil through the central bolt passages, coolant through the hoses, right? maybe you can use a slightly flexible rod to try to fish out some of the clog?
boy, it's been awhile since logging in. Thanks Janos for bugging me about a status update
about a month ago (or more?) I popped the hood open after coming home from somewhere so I could check the fluid levels, which were all good. However, I noticed a little "burp" of fuel coming out of the vacuum line that goes into the fuel pressure regulator (see red arrow in photo below)! Replaced the regulator and got rid of my hot start problem. Reasoning: the bad diaphragm must have allowed pressure in the lines to drop whenever I stopped the truck; the fuel in the rails vaporized from the drop in pressure, causing the vapor lock which resulted in difficulty starting (extended crank, sometimes no start).
I reached my 1000 mile mark on the break-in-oil too, so I did an oil change and sent it in for my "first" engine oil change. I'm about another 1400 miles into my next 5000 mile interval, which will be more informative than the break-in-oil analysis. I haven't had to add a drop of oil yet. It feels kind of weird looking underneath the truck and NOT seeing a mess of "rust prevention."
Took the truck on my first longer trip up to PA to camp this past weekend. It's ran well. I'm feeling paranoid about some top end sounds (probably just valves having the right amount of clearance, though I'll try to check them hot sometime.)
One more thing I haven't quite fixed- looks like the radiator shop where I had the necks repaired and radiator cleaned and pressure tested used something on the fill neck (topressure test) that kind of pulled up the flange, so my rad cap wasn't sitting tight and flush. Coolant's just seeping past that top seal and getting sprayed by the fan all over the intake/front cover/wherever the fan wants to direct it I hope a little bit more "cold forging" will solve it.
someone's clear opinions about the truck
just started in on the second year of school. Desperately need to drag the sentra out of the impound lot to see what I can do with its motor...again.
Good to hear Lolal. I about 6,000 K miles into my rebuild with no issues as well, about to do my 2nd oil change. For the valves, once the proper clearance is confirmed/preformed, all you will need to do is preform your oil changes regularly. From there you should not need to adjust them again. You might be able to get a Radiator cap that is held on with tension vs one that is screwed in place if the top is bent.
08-21-2015, 05:11 PM
I hope a little bit more "cold forging" will solve it.
