Djlarroc

How much has everyone spent on their regear? I'm looking to do that now and I'm trying to compare costs of leaving the front intact with 4:10s and regearing the rear 4:30, to a 4:10 in the e-locker install....OR leaving the 4:30 rear and spending whatever to regear the front to a 4:30 plus the cost of the hard to find 7.5" 4:30. What do you guys think I'm looking at as far as costs of the regear?

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

what size tire are you going to run? you lucky dog getting, all the good weather.

ewong

Go for the gears that match the tire size you want to run and save the pennies to do it right....

BTDT...

bob200587

I asked about this a long time ago, and came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth it to swap from 4.10 to 4.30.

I also don't believe that 4.30s would be low enough for 22re 5spd with 31's

I think your best bet will be to get the e-locker, and then get 2 sets of gears for whatever size tire you plan on running.

The thing is, if you regear now, when you get ready to do a front locker you'll have to pay to have that installed too. So the most cost effective way to do this is do both sets of gears and both sets of lockers at the same time to save on labor.

Djlarroc

Thanks for the reply guys.. NOT ENOUGH SNOW TORTIS!!!

Anyways, I know I've been posting questions about this and picking some members brains, but kinda like bob says. It doesn't make sense to ME at least either to spend so much to gain 1" in clearance to go to 33s from 31s. I'd rather keep it closer to stock and run 31s and then be able to swap on my stock 235s (29") in the winter. Or if I ever decide to sell it, the market for the truck closer to stock will be double than what it is if I regear to 4:88 and have the engine screaming for whoever tries to put 28s, 29s, or 30s. Some people like to keep their stuff stock and having an e-locker won't hurt stockability (is that a word?) at all, and will only appeal more to a 4wheeler, in case, I ever decided to sell it.

I'm going to leave it IFS, so no front e-locker. And no ARB because, I just happen to prefer the e-locker. Only reason I was gona go with 4:30 was because I'd already be getting 1 set in the e-locker and even if it is minimal, it's still better for 31s and a good compromise for the 29s. I know stock was 28s. Sooo... can I get some prices? haha

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

sent ya a PM

EWAYota

Have you pondered getting an E-Locker with 4.88's for the rear and hunting down a stock Toyota 7.5" 4.88 from a junk yard for the front?

seafarinman

$700 on the YG V6 5.29's for front and rear, and master install kits.
$250 for labor to get them installed.
$350 for TG 4.7 t-case gears.

I also got a used Toyota R151F turbo tranny, and a used 23 spline MC crawl box, and a used 23 spline topshift transfercase=$$$$

So all in all, I am out around $2300 but remember that includes the turbo tranny. (244:1 when it is all done-tranny and dual cases are not going in until the 2RZ swap)

jagger_snitt

Detroits with 4.88s front and rear(third members)were right around $1000 each but you won't ever have to worry about them,that is what I did. Just drop in a detroit true trac or quick lock in the 7.5IFS or leave it open and find a 4.88 gear set like said above.

sh0kk86

In my friends 85 he has 4.56's and arb's f/r. i think he said his uncle had it done for 2800 a couple yrs ago. definately go with 4.88 if your going with 33's, he has 4.56's and i can tell tis geared lower than my 4.10's, but it seems like a little lower would be better to make up for the low power of the 22r.


Im looking at getting either elockers/arb's after i do my sas with 5.29's.

tires are nvr big enough

CoedNaked

I'd just go with the 4.30's.

ovrrdrive

I got a 3rd member from Zuk with 5.29's in it that he had laying around for $425 for the rear and then I ran a wanted ad and found a front IFS diff with 5.29's in it already that I got shipped from CA for $150. Then I sold the stock 3rd with 210k on it and 4.10's for $150.

I made out like a bandit.

I bought a Lockright for the rear with the money I saved.

edit. Btw, Zuk will put your gears and master kit in your 3rd member for a very reaonable and competitive price. You just have to pay for shipping and wait. It's cold out so he's probably up to his ears in setups right now.

Jay351

payed 350 for a set of front and rear diffs with 4.88's and another 300 for new bearings in the rear. Plus a lockrite

Djlarroc

Thanks guys. Like I said, I know 4:88s is prime for 33s, but it won't work for 28s, 29s, 30s or maybe 31s. So, I'm losing out on that to just be able to put 33s. Not worth it to me. If I had a V6, 5-spd, maybe that'd be different. I like 4:10s and 31s for the $$ savings, I'd prefer 4:30s if I can get my hands on a cheap 7.5". I hit up Zuk, so hopefully he can find something. How much work in involved if I regear the rear e-locker to a 4:10? Is it the same as if I regear my front to a 4:30? Assuming I can find the part..

EWAYota

You running a 5speed or a auto? If your running an auto and up to 31's, I'd bite on the 33's.

Cebby

A couple of years back, I had $2,269 into mine for 5.29 gearing with ARB lockers front & rear. This included buying spare 3rds since at the time, this was my DD. I sold my stock 4.88 3rds for $400 for the set, so my net regear/locker install was $1,869 F & R total.

Jay351

To be honest, I woudlnt waste my money on 4.30 gears. I would step to at least a 4.56 for your 31" tire. I know you can get a front diff for pretty darn cheap. I know it would be worth it when you run 31" tire, then when/if you swap in the 29" your truck will feel nice an peppy

seafarinman

I decided that if I was going to do the gears, I would do it only once. So I made the jump from a 31" tire on 4.10's to a 37's on 5.29's. Why waste the time and money on gears going from 4.10 to 4.30 to 4.56 to 4.88 to 5.29? Do it once.

Turbo4Runner

You can run 31's with the 4.88's just fine.. That's what I'm doing now.. It's just fine. Actually I like it a lot better then the 4.10's.

phildelfino

Just like djlarroc, I am pondering doing the same things in my 88Runner with A/T & V6. I believe I have 4.10s and although my RPMs are ok on the highway, 70MPH and 2500RPM, I want at least 33s. I was just gonna go straight to the 4.88s with lockers F & R. What do you think?