jgrady1982

Hello,
I am new to this site, but it looks freaking awesome.

Here is my question/problem: I bought a 1988 2wd Toyota pickup (22RE) off of CL about 2 months ago. The truck runs great now, expect for a few issues. Last night the truck would not start. It would crank over, but not fire. I only got it to fire after I pumped the gas a couple times while turning over the engine. The truck had been sitting for about an hour after getting up to normal operating temperature. Once it was started it idled great, drove great, shifted and stopped great. It just did not want to start.

I figured that it did not want to because it was almost on E on the gas gauge, so I took it to the gas station and filled it up. Went to start it and it fired right up. Today at 6:30am went to start it for work, started right up...8 hours later when I went to leave work, started right up. Went to the gym, about an hour later went to start it, would not fire, again had to pump the gas to get it to fire up. Once I did the engine died, I cranked it over again, pumped the throttle and once it started reved it once to keep the idle up. It started and idled fine.

What do you guys think? I was recommended by my other website (advrider.com) to come here with my Toyota questions. Basically it does not want to start when warm..er. What could be causing this? I will post pics and a "history" of the truck later tonight.

Thanks,
Jack

rogerman

I have the same problem with my truck. It runs fine except when I leave for class on hot days and I gotta pump crank it when I get back. I'll be watching this thread.

broncrider

might sound like a fuel pump problem. once it gets hot it doesnt put enough pressure out to start it. but its hard to tell without being there to test it. if you can get it hot then take it to your house and try and get it to act up for you so you can trouble shoot it. make sure your getting a good spark fuel pressure ect. thats just my 2cents

abecedarian

EFI, right?
Try disconnecting the electrical connector to the cold start injector (it's on the side of the intake, near the middle, and has a fuel line and electrical connector attached to it) and see if it starts more easily when warm. Warning- disconnecting the CSI may cause problems with cold starts but this is only a troubleshooting test.

4runnerx3

Make sure the plugs are not fouled.

jgrady1982

Okay so I'm back...from the mechanic...I know I suck, and bit one by taking it there. However, the wife wants me to install new counter tops this weekend and I need the truck to a. go get the saw horses from my Dad's place in order to cut the counter tops b. be able to go to Home Depot to get the countertops and c. take the old counter top to my Dad's dumpster to get rid of it.

Enough of that, who cares...right. I was thinking along the same line of...abecadarian. When I called my mechanic he immediately thought of the cold start injector. O well, we'll see what he has to say. I kind of told him that I need it by Saturday, he said that I should (fingers crossed) have it by Friday. He's pretty good, he used to work as a Honda cert. mechanic.

Anywho he here is the history of the truck. Like I said earlier I bought it about 2 months ago off of CL from this kid who bought it 2 years ago from the original owner. At that time the truck had 18,000 miles on it. So he put about 20,000 miles in 2 years. He used it mostly for hauling his CRF450 to the motocross tracks for his races. I had to have the truck towed to my condo because the day that I bought it the front wheel bearings went out on the PO. The outer bearing on the drivers side had exploded and the inner race had welded itself onto the spindle. Also the exhaust was done, there was no tail pipe and one of the rear brake lines was leaking. The PO told me that him and his step dad replaced the the fuel lines and all but the one leaking brake line.

So I replaced the two front calipers, wheel bearings (inner and outer both front wheels), the front drivers hub (the PO drove on the exploded wheel bearing and this ovaled the hub causing the outer race not to sit snugly in the hub, this was a PITA because I had to order one from a junk yard), the leaking rear brake line, front rotors, pads, and rear shoes. I did an oil change and changed the plugs and PCV valve. The wires look good, I have yet to look at the cap/rotor.

Once it is mechanically A1, I am going to install new 4 inch speakers in the dash. There are no speakers there now, the PO said that they stopped working so he removed them. The PO did put in a new, really nice Sony headunit with an ipod hookup already routed to the glove box. So the sound system does have potential. But again, I am not touching the interior until the truck runs perfect.

Okay here are some pics. I also had my mechanic take off the tires when I bought it so that I could sand blast the wheels and paint them. This made a huge difference in overall appearance. The only rust in on the rear wheel fenders, and there is a quarter size hole in the bed. The under carriage is rust free, and the frame is solid (tested via the ball peen hammer taps to the frame rails).

Here are the pics:

This is when I had it flatbed-ed home








Prelude buckets, may be going in sometime in the spring




Old exhaust




"welded" on old outer inner part of wheel bearing, I cut it with a cut off wheel and then pulled it with my puller. Then I had to file the spindle in order to get the new bearing to slide on, this was a pain.


Old and new drivers hubs


This is what the truck looks like now with the new wheels

jgrady1982

So I got my truck back from the mechanic last night...$463 later. But it does run pretty much perfect right now, with the exception of the squeaky rear brake or brakes.
Anyways this is what he told me was wrong. He said that this year or design had not a recall, but a service bulletin regarding the cold injector sensor. He said that what happens is the cold injector sensor sends a fauly temp to the computer which then does not tell the cold injector to fire when it actually should. So basically when it was "warm" the sensor should have told the computer to fire the 5th cold injector, but it did not, so this is why it did not start. So he replaced the cold injector sensor and he also replaced the water temp sensor. He said that when he hooked up the sensor to his reader the actual water temp, and the temp that the sensor was sending to the computer was 10 degrees off, so he replaced the water temp sensor too.
He also told me that somebody had mixed the red coolant with the green coolant, which I guess is a big no-no. Apparently when you mix those two coolants, they mix and cause a reaction which breaks down the coolant into a sludge. Which, after time will clog up the cooling system and make it not operate correctly. So he flushed the coolant and cleaned the carbon off of the throttle body plates. The truck now idles a lot better and is smoother at start up. Overall it runs very nice right now. Let's just hope that this is it for repairs on this truck. I feel like it has been worked on more than I have driven it.
However, tomorrow I am going to go pick up my bike from my wife's grandma's house. I can't wait, my bike will be back!!!!:freaky :freaky :freaky
So there is the update, apparently these year 22r's had a funky cold temp sensor that when would go bad would not tell the comp to fire the 5th injector.
Thanks,
Jack

rogerman

Cold start injector... thanks for the heads up jgrady