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Got some BJ spacers for $60

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Old 03-14-2010, 05:15 PM
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Thats funny I threw my 9000's away when i SAS'd, brand new, and new CV's lol its funny how much you don't care about the IFS components when the day of SAS'ing finally arrives. =P
Old 03-14-2010, 05:22 PM
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What about the ES1000's? do they suck?
Old 03-14-2010, 09:44 PM
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They are what, the lowest quality shock from poocomp?

I dont like my es3000's... ride like arse.

Good luck with the spacers, look hokey to me..
Old 03-14-2010, 11:51 PM
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Ideally, you want to keep unsprung weight down on a vehicle- that's to say that you wan as little possible weight that's not attached rigidly to the frame. This is important for ride quality... I'll explain why if you like, or you can google.
Old 03-15-2010, 02:43 AM
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i got the procomp es1000's, got em on a ebay deals for like 80 bucks for the set. i think they're good for the money but for sure not the best. they do ride a lil rough but i just got use to it.
Old 03-15-2010, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt16
Ideally, you want to keep unsprung weight down on a vehicle- that's to say that you wan as little possible weight that's not attached rigidly to the frame. This is important for ride quality... I'll explain why if you like, or you can google.
do explain

my google fingers are lazy today
Old 03-15-2010, 05:39 PM
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Quote from the Wiki on "unsprung mass": Unsprung weight includes the mass of components such as the wheel axles, wheel bearings, tires, and a portion of the weight of driveshafts, springs, shock absorbers, and suspension links. If the vehicle's brakes are mounted outboard (i.e., within the wheel), their weight is also part of the unsprung weight.

So if you go from the stock 26 inch tires to 35" tires you just added like 25 pounds of unsprung mass to each corner of your truck. So??? It's gonna burst into flames right??? Haha. Obviously your "unsprung mass" argument is pointless and ill-founded. If you were an engineer I would listen to you. They're simple spacers, that's all. They're made of steel like ALL of the other suspension components on a Yota. Theyre not gonna cause any issues what-so-ever and I only paid $60 for them ahahaa.
Old 03-15-2010, 05:53 PM
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I paid $40 more than that for mine, and I don't have to worry about mine rusting on me any time soon, so ahahaa back at you
Old 03-15-2010, 05:56 PM
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Haha. I will start replacing every part on my truck with billet aluminum from here on out! Starting with the entire frame! There's really no such thing as rust where I live anyways...
Old 03-15-2010, 06:07 PM
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lol

that would be a big hunk of aluminum!


yeah I don't have to worry about rust too much here in Fl, as far as salting the roads being the main cause. as long as you stay off the beach, you're fine, lol

the rust is an easy thing to prevent IMO; the fact that they are 3 separate peices stacked together is what I would worry about the most


if it were me, I would definately look into putting a good weld at the joints of them, all the way around

maybe bolt them together so they're in line (before installing them), and run a good solid weld ALL THE WAY AROUND each mating line between the layers, and you should be fine

then prime them, paint them, bolt them on, and you should be good to go (after an alignment of coarse)






Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 03-15-2010 at 06:08 PM.
Old 03-15-2010, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bridger5228
Haha. I will start replacing every part on my truck with billet aluminum from here on out! Starting with the entire frame! There's really no such thing as rust where I live anyways...
you can take lessons from this guy http://jalopnik.com/5385797/how-to-b...aluminum-cobra
Old 03-16-2010, 09:27 AM
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These seem pretty sketchy to me. Definitely want to weld them up.

Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
I paid $40 more than that for mine, and I don't have to worry about mine rusting on me any time soon, so ahahaa back at you
me too, AND they came with the 8 mounting bolts + nuts (maybe $20 from the hardware store?), AND we didn't have to modify them to make them work (welder + time + paint = more money). Sounds like your $60 steel BJ spacers just bumped up to the price of aluminum SDORI BJ spacers.
Old 03-16-2010, 10:28 AM
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Let them rust so they are chemically welded together.
Old 03-16-2010, 04:05 PM
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Bolts, nuts, washers(GRADE 8)cost me 8 bucks. Not gonna weld them up. Why should I? It will make no difference if I do or don't. Paint, wow, .15 cents worth of paint, hope I can afford that..... I promise they're not going to rust just because they're made of steel. Aluminum oxidizes also just FYI.
Old 03-16-2010, 04:07 PM
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Oh and if I want to weld them up I can, for free, at work while I'm on the clock haha.
Old 03-16-2010, 04:18 PM
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It's your truck, so of course you are entitled to do what you want. I'm curious as to how this will work out, so definitely post a write-up.

I'm also curious as to why you are giving so much attitude. The point of this site is to get in touch with other toyota owners who can share knowledge and constructive feedback. But it seems that you're not very receptive towards anyone's ideas...

Last edited by toyNG; 03-16-2010 at 04:23 PM.
Old 03-16-2010, 04:36 PM
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aluminum will not oxidize under normal NATURAL conditions outside.......

i think the stacked BJ spacers will be just fine...but would it be SAFER to weld...hell yea...that's why i recommended it?
Old 03-16-2010, 05:07 PM
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okay enough arguing about welding and rusting... just bolt 'em on, and be the first to try them out

find out the pros and cons, and share with the Yotatech community

you've already bought them, you're going to do whatever you want to do, so to drag this out is pointless



I for one hope they work out great for you



Old 03-16-2010, 05:29 PM
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Bleeder, thank you and I agree.
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