Front crank seal change in truck?

Beaniam · 10-15-2007, 03:33 PM

1993 4x4 pickup w/22RE
Today I noticed oil spray all around the engine compartment and it looks like the front seal is starting to go. I've never done one on a 22RE before and was wondering if it's possible to do without pulling the engine. Is there enough room to play around in there if I pull the radiator, shroud, and front grill? I guess I'm figuring correct that the crank pully bolt is going to be a total bitch to get off too

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Guardian_Saint · 10-15-2007, 06:39 PM

My V6 doesn't need to pull the engine to replace the seal, has pretty much space there, and I am currently diong mine also...

Yeah the darn crank bolt is a b*tch... but you can try this though, get a long ranchet or you can use the torque ranchet and lay the other end touching the frame and make sure that it is in the opening position then crank your engine, but don't start it, just by cranking it a bit, that should have a chance that it will come loose, try heating the bolt first before cranking it ( 500 F?). But I fail on mine trying that cranking. We successfully done it before so no doupt that you can't do it that way.

SoCal4Running · 10-15-2007, 08:23 PM

Yea its totally possible with the engine in the truck. Might as well just pull the oil pump and put the seal in with it not mounted to the motor.

longhungsilver · 10-15-2007, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal4Running

Yea its totally possible with the engine in the truck. Might as well just pull the oil pump and put the seal in with it not mounted to the motor.

you could but thats not necessary.. its easy you dont need to pull the grill.. just the rad, shroud, fan(i think), belts and of course the crank pulley (use the starter to get it off). then your there

Guardian_Saint · 10-15-2007, 11:51 PM

OK, done the same procedure today and finally got it loose, if you have the tool this is all you need, picture below, save you $100+ on tool.

Just as the picture shown, and make sure that you have it on the opening position then just by turning the key to start then immediately shut it back down, DO NOT START IT, so goodluck man.

n4ynu1010 · 10-16-2007, 09:33 AM

Nice Trick with the starter for a Impact Gun hehe

Beaniam · 02-28-2008, 10:01 AM

I think I'm finally getting around to doing this on this weekend, getting to be about a quart of oil a week now and getting things messy. My question is am I going to need a gear or crank pulley puller or does it come off fairly easy once you get the crank bolt out? Hopefully the starter/breaker bar method will make easy work of that.

farmerj · 02-28-2008, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n4ynu1010

Nice Trick with the starter for a Impact Gun hehe

Had a buddy helping me do my truck. When I took my clutch out I saw the damage it did to my ring gear.

But hey, ifn' yas want to ruin your flywheel, go for it.

Make sure you put some lube on that seal when you put the balancer back in. Lube up the balancer too.

Don't be afraid to put a speedy sleeve on your old balancer either, you will be changing it real soon again if you have a nice gouge in your old balancer.

I opted to just replace my old balancer with a new one. Found it on Ebay and it's been about 4 years since I put it in.

thook · 02-28-2008, 11:12 AM

You'll need a puller to get it off. It has a keyway that it slides off of.

The starter/breaker bar works well enough. Just soak it with some penetrating fluid well enough beforehand. Also, disconnect the distributor before you bump the starter. Saves on mishaps, eh.

One more thing. You might go to O'Reilly or NAPA and get a repair sleeve in case you've some wear on the front of the crank. A new seal won't stop the leaking if so. And, if you don't need it, you can always take it back. They're cheap enough.....less than $10, atleast.

thook · 02-28-2008, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmerj

Had a buddy helping me do my truck. When I took my clutch out I saw the damage it did to my ring gear.

But hey, ifn' yas want to ruin your flywheel, go for it.

Make sure you put some lube on that seal when you put the balancer back in. Lube up the balancer too.

Don't be afraid to put a speedy sleeve on your old balancer either, you will be changing it real soon again if you have a nice gouge in your old balancer.

I opted to just replace my old balancer with a new one. Found it on Ebay and it's been about 4 years since I put it in.

That's a good point. I've never had a problem chipping the flywheel, but it's a possibility. You're not the only one I've heard this happen to.

O'Reilly, NAPA may have a tool for the pulley to hold it in place. Check it out.

farmerj · 02-28-2008, 11:23 AM

I ended up putting the truck in 5th gear, low range and blocked the tires.

using my big breaker bar, everything popped loose just fine.

I also got lucky in that when I did pull my balancer, it slid right off with no puller. Ya never know how lucky you might git.

Beaniam · 02-28-2008, 11:34 AM

Thanks for the input, got a balancer off ebay. Won't have to worry about damaging the old one now if it's stubborn coming off and my gear puller damages it.

farmerj · 02-28-2008, 12:05 PM

Speedy sleeve slips onto the balancer. It's purpose is to create a new surface for the seal to fit against. It's really quite "flimsy" when it's now on the balancer. Easy to damage while handling.

Slip it onto the balancer, slide the balancer on, piece of cake... Make sure you put a touch of sealant, NOT RTV, on the balancer before you put the sleeve on. a really light coat is what I do. Stops it from weeping out the balancer.

4runnerx3 · 02-28-2008, 01:34 PM

the groove

sleeve installed

Beaniam · 02-28-2008, 02:05 PM

thanks

Targetnut · 02-29-2008, 08:00 AM

Warning!

If you use the starter method for breaking loose the crank pulley bolt,

Stand clear and don't watch!

I used to work with a fellow that had a 4" scar on the side of his head from when something broke when someone else cranked it while he was watching

He's lucky he did not lose an eye,

Or his life!

Beaniam · 02-29-2008, 08:34 AM

yeah I'll be working alone, won't be anyone around the engine when I'm breaking it loose. That's only if I can't do it with a breaker bar first which I hope I can. I'm also not too worried about chipping a tooth or two on my flywheel. My clutch is going to need to be replaced soon and I'm going with a marlin clutch and flywheel so it's coming out anyway. Thanks for the heads up

Beaniam · 02-29-2008, 09:45 AM

I guess on the upside I don't have to worry about rust or any bolts in the front end of the truck seizing up

surf4runner · 02-29-2008, 02:11 PM

i had a bad time w/the crank bolt and it had to be chiseled off.

i found 2 different thickness seals so i didnt need to use a repair sleeve, just the other thickness seal.

4runnerx3 · 02-29-2008, 02:15 PM

I bet the tie rod adjustments are still stuck/rusted.

Beaniam · 03-03-2008, 04:01 PM

The breaker bar/starter method worked too well. The balancer slid off by hand. The whole process took about 45 minutes to replace the crank seal. I never have this luck. ...something bad is going to happen tomorrow

10-15-2007, 06:39 PM	#2 (permalink)
Guardian_Saint Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: California Posts: 415	My V6 doesn't need to pull the engine to replace the seal, has pretty much space there, and I am currently diong mine also... Yeah the darn crank bolt is a b*tch... but you can try this though, get a long ranchet or you can use the torque ranchet and lay the other end touching the frame and make sure that it is in the opening position then crank your engine, but don't start it, just by cranking it a bit, that should have a chance that it will come loose, try heating the bolt first before cranking it ( 500 F?). But I fail on mine trying that cranking. We successfully done it before so no doupt that you can't do it that way. __________________ My Rig - 1992 TOYOTA 4RUNNER, 3VZE V6, R150 5 Speed Transmission (5 Speed Swap, running on AUTO ECU & Wire Harness) 4x4, ( 225,500 miles ) all bonestock. Replace HG at 215,000 miles ( MLS HG). 1992 Toyota 4runner V6 A/T ECU/ECM for sale, part # 89661-35770, asking price at $100.00 USD. Free Shipping in the US.

10-15-2007, 08:23 PM	#3 (permalink)
SoCal4Running Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Oceanside, CA. Posts: 786	Yea its totally possible with the engine in the truck. Might as well just pull the oil pump and put the seal in with it not mounted to the motor. __________________ '86 4runner 22RE, 5-speed, LC Street EFI head w/ cam, LC Pistons, ARP Head Studs, Downey header, Dynomax 2 1/4" full exhaust, VDO water temp guage, 01-03 Tacoma cd\tape radio with 10" Bazzoka, Downey 2" rear springs, GDI radiator, Torus fan DONE!!!! '68 Ford Mustang Fastback Daily driver with a built 289 and a streetfighter trans.(Retired) 98 Subaru Outback-Took over daily driving duties MicroMatic.com Waco93.com

10-15-2007, 11:51 PM	#5 (permalink)
Guardian_Saint Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: California Posts: 415	OK, done the same procedure today and finally got it loose, if you have the tool this is all you need, picture below, save you $100+ on tool. Just as the picture shown, and make sure that you have it on the opening position then just by turning the key to start then immediately shut it back down, DO NOT START IT, so goodluck man. __________________ My Rig - 1992 TOYOTA 4RUNNER, 3VZE V6, R150 5 Speed Transmission (5 Speed Swap, running on AUTO ECU & Wire Harness) 4x4, ( 225,500 miles ) all bonestock. Replace HG at 215,000 miles ( MLS HG). 1992 Toyota 4runner V6 A/T ECU/ECM for sale, part # 89661-35770, asking price at $100.00 USD. Free Shipping in the US. Last edited by Guardian_Saint; 10-16-2007 at 12:02 AM.

10-16-2007, 09:33 AM	#6 (permalink)
n4ynu1010 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co. Posts: 1,062	Nice Trick with the starter for a Impact Gun hehe __________________ Guy '91 ExCab Dlx Longbed/3VZE-Fast/Stock 2WD/5spd Manual '95 GMC Jimmy SLS 4WD/4.3L Vortech/Euro Susp and Motor Package/Tow Package F.A.I.T.H. Forsaking All I Trust HIM Matthew 19,20 : 19 I say again unto you,that if two of you shall agree on earth as touching anything they shall ask,it shall be done for them of my Father which is in Heaven 20 For where two or three are gathered in my Name,there Am I in the Midst of them

02-28-2008, 11:23 AM	#11 (permalink)
farmerj Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Central Minnesota Posts: 456	I ended up putting the truck in 5th gear, low range and blocked the tires. using my big breaker bar, everything popped loose just fine. I also got lucky in that when I did pull my balancer, it slid right off with no puller. Ya never know how lucky you might git. __________________ Life is too short to have to work.... RIP - 4 July 2008 - '88 4Runner, Audiovox Cruise Control,Valvoline Full Synthetic Gear oil, SR5 instrument cluster, '95 4Runner Seats, Rear U-bolt Flip

02-28-2008, 10:01 AM	#7 (permalink)
Beaniam Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Tabernacle, NJ Posts: 401	I think I'm finally getting around to doing this on this weekend, getting to be about a quart of oil a week now and getting things messy. My question is am I going to need a gear or crank pulley puller or does it come off fairly easy once you get the crank bolt out? Hopefully the starter/breaker bar method will make easy work of that.

02-28-2008, 11:34 AM	#12 (permalink)
Beaniam Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Tabernacle, NJ Posts: 401	Thanks for the input, got a balancer off ebay. Won't have to worry about damaging the old one now if it's stubborn coming off and my gear puller damages it. Last edited by Beaniam; 02-28-2008 at 11:39 AM.

02-28-2008, 12:05 PM	#13 (permalink)
farmerj Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Central Minnesota Posts: 456	Speedy sleeve slips onto the balancer. It's purpose is to create a new surface for the seal to fit against. It's really quite "flimsy" when it's now on the balancer. Easy to damage while handling. Slip it onto the balancer, slide the balancer on, piece of cake... Make sure you put a touch of sealant, NOT RTV, on the balancer before you put the sleeve on. a really light coat is what I do. Stops it from weeping out the balancer. __________________ Life is too short to have to work.... RIP - 4 July 2008 - '88 4Runner, Audiovox Cruise Control,Valvoline Full Synthetic Gear oil, SR5 instrument cluster, '95 4Runner Seats, Rear U-bolt Flip

02-28-2008, 01:34 PM	#14 (permalink)
4runnerx3 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: North Carolina Posts: 834	the groove sleeve installed

02-28-2008, 02:05 PM	#15 (permalink)
Beaniam Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Tabernacle, NJ Posts: 401	thanks

02-29-2008, 08:00 AM	#16 (permalink)
Targetnut Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Manassas, VA Posts: 554	Warning! If you use the starter method for breaking loose the crank pulley bolt, Stand clear and don't watch! I used to work with a fellow that had a 4" scar on the side of his head from when something broke when someone else cranked it while he was watching He's lucky he did not lose an eye, Or his life! __________________ Targetnut don't talk about it, just do it! Precision Import Service '93 2WD 22RE, Ported w/os valves, custom intake manifold, crane cam,Megasquirt, 295cc injctrs, Supra fuel pump, adj fuel pres reg, 70mm throttle, LCE header, V6 Taco cat, 14lb flywheel, Kevlar clutch, W58 and short shifter, 4.10 gears w/Truetrac, drop spindles and blocks, 245/50-16 Yokos on 16x8 wheels, 4WD fenders, bumper, and valence, skinned tailgate

02-29-2008, 08:34 AM	#17 (permalink)
Beaniam Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Tabernacle, NJ Posts: 401	yeah I'll be working alone, won't be anyone around the engine when I'm breaking it loose. That's only if I can't do it with a breaker bar first which I hope I can. I'm also not too worried about chipping a tooth or two on my flywheel. My clutch is going to need to be replaced soon and I'm going with a marlin clutch and flywheel so it's coming out anyway. Thanks for the heads up

02-29-2008, 09:45 AM	#18 (permalink)
Beaniam Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Tabernacle, NJ Posts: 401	I guess on the upside I don't have to worry about rust or any bolts in the front end of the truck seizing up

02-29-2008, 02:15 PM	#20 (permalink)
4runnerx3 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: North Carolina Posts: 834	I bet the tie rod adjustments are still stuck/rusted.

03-03-2008, 04:01 PM	#21 (permalink)
Beaniam Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Tabernacle, NJ Posts: 401	The breaker bar/starter method worked too well. The balancer slid off by hand. The whole process took about 45 minutes to replace the crank seal. I never have this luck. ...something bad is going to happen tomorrow

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