A free 1993 4x4 PickUp? I'll take it.
03-31-2009, 02:38 AM
#22
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My 1990 4Runner SR5 doesn't have power window, door locks, AC or a sun roof. It does have the 4-way adjustable seats and the variable wipers though.
And its not Rally (LOL), not is it Racing. That would be ridiculous for a 3500lbs truck with a 100hp motor to be badged with anything implying speed. All it originally stood for is the R-series motor (ie: 18R, 20R, 22R and so on).
And its not Rally (LOL), not is it Racing. That would be ridiculous for a 3500lbs truck with a 100hp motor to be badged with anything implying speed. All it originally stood for is the R-series motor (ie: 18R, 20R, 22R and so on).
SR5 used to stand for something, but no longer - I think it's just a marketing ploy anymore.
03-31-2009, 02:40 AM
#23
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My 1990 4Runner SR5 doesn't have power window, door locks, AC or a sun roof. It does have the 4-way adjustable seats and the variable wipers though.
And its not Rally (LOL), not is it Racing. That would be ridiculous for a 3500lbs truck with a 100hp motor to be badged with anything implying speed. All it originally stood for is the R-series motor (ie: 18R, 20R, 22R and so on).
And its not Rally (LOL), not is it Racing. That would be ridiculous for a 3500lbs truck with a 100hp motor to be badged with anything implying speed. All it originally stood for is the R-series motor (ie: 18R, 20R, 22R and so on).
SR5 used to stand for something, but no longer - I think it's just a marketing ploy anymore.
03-31-2009, 03:31 AM
#24
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HI,
While they look daunting, electrical problems like that are an easy fix. A heaping dose of patience, a spool of wire, heat shrink tubing, a soldering iron and some dash disassembly.
You may be on your head a times under the dash but it won't be all that bad. It will take a day.... or two but take your time, follow the diagram, connect the proper wires and you'll be as good as new quite quickly. Your crimp on connectors are only a very short term fix. They will corrode and decay and in a short while give you a lot of grief.
If you can get a new harness that's great but it could actually be more work unplugging EVERYTHING and feeding the wires to the proper locations than it be to patiently trace wires and repairing what you have there.
Dave
While they look daunting, electrical problems like that are an easy fix. A heaping dose of patience, a spool of wire, heat shrink tubing, a soldering iron and some dash disassembly.
You may be on your head a times under the dash but it won't be all that bad. It will take a day.... or two but take your time, follow the diagram, connect the proper wires and you'll be as good as new quite quickly. Your crimp on connectors are only a very short term fix. They will corrode and decay and in a short while give you a lot of grief.
If you can get a new harness that's great but it could actually be more work unplugging EVERYTHING and feeding the wires to the proper locations than it be to patiently trace wires and repairing what you have there.
Dave
03-31-2009, 05:42 AM
#25
Registered User
HI,
While they look daunting, electrical problems like that are an easy fix. A heaping dose of patience, a spool of wire, heat shrink tubing, a soldering iron and some dash disassembly.
You may be on your head a times under the dash but it won't be all that bad. It will take a day.... or two but take your time, follow the diagram, connect the proper wires and you'll be as good as new quite quickly. Your crimp on connectors are only a very short term fix. They will corrode and decay and in a short while give you a lot of grief.
If you can get a new harness that's great but it could actually be more work unplugging EVERYTHING and feeding the wires to the proper locations than it be to patiently trace wires and repairing what you have there.
Dave
While they look daunting, electrical problems like that are an easy fix. A heaping dose of patience, a spool of wire, heat shrink tubing, a soldering iron and some dash disassembly.
You may be on your head a times under the dash but it won't be all that bad. It will take a day.... or two but take your time, follow the diagram, connect the proper wires and you'll be as good as new quite quickly. Your crimp on connectors are only a very short term fix. They will corrode and decay and in a short while give you a lot of grief.
If you can get a new harness that's great but it could actually be more work unplugging EVERYTHING and feeding the wires to the proper locations than it be to patiently trace wires and repairing what you have there.
Dave
btw man NICE ride! i wish i could get free stuff like that...
03-31-2009, 08:24 AM
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I will stress this fact....... if done PROPERLY.
Dave
03-31-2009, 01:35 PM
#28
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Argh - wrote a huge reply and then firefox crashed.
So from what I understand there's a pretty big debate on soldering vs. crimping in automotive applications. A solder joint, being more perfectionist, won't necessarily stand up to vibration and other environmental problems with automobiles. Solder, especially ROHS stuff you get now, corrodes. A good crimp - with the wires properly stripped and a good $35 crimper - with a 1/4in crimp face and ratcheting action - is easier to troubleshoot, holds up to vibration better when covered properly, faster.
Either way - I'm lazy and went with the crimp route to speed things up.
Saturday it decided to rain, so armed with an umbrella and a few hand tools in my pocket I went to pull-a-part to scout things out. They had a 94 that had been in the yard for just a week, so I thought I might get lucky and grab an entire harness for cheap. But no such luck - the harness was cut, the engine was gone. Sunday was supposed to be sunny and nice - but it was cloudy and cold. I did a couple of checks, verified that I was getting fuel but no spark and started toning out the ignition (thanks for the wiring harness schematic - it looks to be dead on) when I decided I'd rather go ahead and call the guy parting out the 93 on craigslist. Drove 50 miles and met up with him, started taking apart the harness - when I found out the truck was actually a 92 and the harness was different. So much for that.
If the weather is nicer this weekend, I'll probably have more patience to tone out wires. The schematic makes things alot easier, especially on the wire color repeats - it looks like a majority of them are connected together. I'm going to keep an eye out for a wiring harness as well, but for intents of getting the truck smogged, I'll continue with crimping and splicing. I was able to yank all the ECU wires out through the firewall, so that'll make things a ton easier in toning them out.
I'm still not sure if it's an SR5 or not - it doesn't have power windows or a sunroof. Sounds like a trim level, similar to my old "outback" impreza.
So from what I understand there's a pretty big debate on soldering vs. crimping in automotive applications. A solder joint, being more perfectionist, won't necessarily stand up to vibration and other environmental problems with automobiles. Solder, especially ROHS stuff you get now, corrodes. A good crimp - with the wires properly stripped and a good $35 crimper - with a 1/4in crimp face and ratcheting action - is easier to troubleshoot, holds up to vibration better when covered properly, faster.
Either way - I'm lazy and went with the crimp route to speed things up.
Saturday it decided to rain, so armed with an umbrella and a few hand tools in my pocket I went to pull-a-part to scout things out. They had a 94 that had been in the yard for just a week, so I thought I might get lucky and grab an entire harness for cheap. But no such luck - the harness was cut, the engine was gone. Sunday was supposed to be sunny and nice - but it was cloudy and cold. I did a couple of checks, verified that I was getting fuel but no spark and started toning out the ignition (thanks for the wiring harness schematic - it looks to be dead on) when I decided I'd rather go ahead and call the guy parting out the 93 on craigslist. Drove 50 miles and met up with him, started taking apart the harness - when I found out the truck was actually a 92 and the harness was different. So much for that.
If the weather is nicer this weekend, I'll probably have more patience to tone out wires. The schematic makes things alot easier, especially on the wire color repeats - it looks like a majority of them are connected together. I'm going to keep an eye out for a wiring harness as well, but for intents of getting the truck smogged, I'll continue with crimping and splicing. I was able to yank all the ECU wires out through the firewall, so that'll make things a ton easier in toning them out.
I'm still not sure if it's an SR5 or not - it doesn't have power windows or a sunroof. Sounds like a trim level, similar to my old "outback" impreza.
04-13-2009, 12:16 PM
#31
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Well, the weather has conspired against me somewhat - but here's what 41 spliced wires looks like:
The good news: It runs. Purged the fuel tank, swapped the filter, new plugs and wires, changed the oil. Drove it 2 miles.
The bad: Doesn't run right. Idles fine, power is good, but at cruise it bucks - so I'm thinking EGR. Flooring it reveals clutch is slipping, and the oil leak I have might be from the rear main seal. I decided if I was going to have to tone out every wire, I might as well grab a new harness and get it done right.
But that's put me into a corner now. Trying to find a harness is being ... annoying. yotayard.com said they had one, then I called, and they don't. Anyone else have good resources? Thanks.
The good news: It runs. Purged the fuel tank, swapped the filter, new plugs and wires, changed the oil. Drove it 2 miles.
The bad: Doesn't run right. Idles fine, power is good, but at cruise it bucks - so I'm thinking EGR. Flooring it reveals clutch is slipping, and the oil leak I have might be from the rear main seal. I decided if I was going to have to tone out every wire, I might as well grab a new harness and get it done right.
But that's put me into a corner now. Trying to find a harness is being ... annoying. yotayard.com said they had one, then I called, and they don't. Anyone else have good resources? Thanks.
Last edited by iscariot; 04-13-2009 at 12:25 PM.
04-13-2009, 02:54 PM
#32
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Try these places, they specialize in Toyota parts:
http://www.nix99.com/
http://www.alltoyotatrucksuvparts.com/
http://www.nix99.com/
http://www.alltoyotatrucksuvparts.com/
04-25-2009, 12:11 PM
#33
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You guys should've told me it was this easy. 
I found the junkyard post ( https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...-yards-149035/ ) and started calling around a few weeks ago. Wasn't as easy I had hoped, I ended up calling about 20 places all told.
First though, a big shout out to Victor's Off Road Engineering - he was the only yard I called that kept me on the line while he checked through his stock, and when he found a candidate we would read thru the wire colors on the plugs - but we couldn't find a direct match. If I need something else, I'll definitely be giving him a call.
All Toyota Auto Recycling grabbed one off a 93 4x4 5spd. $210 after shipping - probably not the cheapest if I wanted to search more, but all in all not too bad. I got it Thursday, spent Friday night removing the old harness and installing the new one. All told, probably about 4 hours. New intake manifold gaskets, cleaned the runners a little, stripped one of the egr threads, breaking torque on one of the threads slammed my hand into the egr valve and took a chunk out of my thumb - but not too bad.
Took it for a quick test drive - it doesn't want to idle correctly, but it's not bucking at cruise anymore. Clutch is most definitely unhealthy, and I've got clean oil spotting the ground - rear main seal. Doesn't want to idle either - but I missed plugging in the coolant temperature sensor. So I'm hopeful that's my problem, about to go check that out and swap in some plats to replace the coppers I put in there while troubleshooting. Messed up and didn't call insurance till today - so now I have to wait till Monday to drive it and get title + emissions + tag.
Ohya - I'm up here in Grayson. Keep forgetting to mention that.
But, final tally is still < $500. Not too bad.
I found the junkyard post ( https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...-yards-149035/ ) and started calling around a few weeks ago. Wasn't as easy I had hoped, I ended up calling about 20 places all told.
First though, a big shout out to Victor's Off Road Engineering - he was the only yard I called that kept me on the line while he checked through his stock, and when he found a candidate we would read thru the wire colors on the plugs - but we couldn't find a direct match. If I need something else, I'll definitely be giving him a call.
All Toyota Auto Recycling grabbed one off a 93 4x4 5spd. $210 after shipping - probably not the cheapest if I wanted to search more, but all in all not too bad. I got it Thursday, spent Friday night removing the old harness and installing the new one. All told, probably about 4 hours. New intake manifold gaskets, cleaned the runners a little, stripped one of the egr threads, breaking torque on one of the threads slammed my hand into the egr valve and took a chunk out of my thumb - but not too bad.
Took it for a quick test drive - it doesn't want to idle correctly, but it's not bucking at cruise anymore. Clutch is most definitely unhealthy, and I've got clean oil spotting the ground - rear main seal. Doesn't want to idle either - but I missed plugging in the coolant temperature sensor. So I'm hopeful that's my problem, about to go check that out and swap in some plats to replace the coppers I put in there while troubleshooting. Messed up and didn't call insurance till today - so now I have to wait till Monday to drive it and get title + emissions + tag.
Ohya - I'm up here in Grayson. Keep forgetting to mention that.
But, final tally is still < $500. Not too bad.
04-25-2009, 01:00 PM
#34
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Toyota wiring harnesses are a nightmare. I went thru something like this with my 4R. The PO decided to hack the harness in a botched effort to convert it to a turbo model. What a mess. I found 3 harnesses at the junkyard and combined all three to get one good harness. The problem is that Toyota seems to change their harnesses every week it seems. Even the same make and year can have a dozen different harnesses. Bleh.
I'd solder, heat shrink, and re-tape the harness for reliability.
I'd solder, heat shrink, and re-tape the harness for reliability.
04-25-2009, 01:03 PM
#35
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I did clean up and retape a bit of the shielding that was looking crummy. But everything was drop in. Yay.
But good news - 2 vacuum hoses, 1 vacuum leak, and 1 sensor plugged in - purring like a kitten now. Enhanced by the rusty muffler.
But good news - 2 vacuum hoses, 1 vacuum leak, and 1 sensor plugged in - purring like a kitten now. Enhanced by the rusty muffler.
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