Keener

It comes time to replace the clutch in my 4Runner, and since it is the first clutch i've replaced i am just curious what kind of clutches you guys are running. Should I stay with a OEM clutch, or are aftermarket clutches like centerforce that much better? Its a '88 runner, V6, SAS, 5.29s and 37s. The stock one seemed to do the job but i've never used a fancy aftermarket to compare to. What do you guys think? Thanks.

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superjoe83

IMO stick with an OEM style, there is no need for high performance clutches in stock HP rigs

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- Joe
1984 SR5 4runner, 22re, 5-speed, chevy 63"s, rears up front custom pack, BBCS shocks, 2" BL, 5.29's, welded rear, Detroit in front, Longfields, IFS Rear, 39.5x13.50x15 IROK's, Marlin's High Steer, MC07 with stock cases, Marlin's cross member, tube bumper, Warn XD9000, Allied Beadlocks
1999 Taco 2.7 5-speed, LCE Header, Jardine 2.25 Cat-Back, 3" Downey Coilover, 33x13.5 Toyo MT's, ARB Bull Bar, Retrofitted Acura TL HID Projectors with 50W ballasts and 50W DL50 Philips 3900k bulbs

muddpigg

Their supose to have a high thresh hold before they slip. I can't say if its worth it. I did but really didn't wheel the stock one that much. The OEM is 900ft/lb of pressure I put a 1200ft/lb pressure plate in mine. I think thats what centerforce calls a stage 1, though mine is built by Seco (Japan), they make the OEM stuff. The heavy duty crap is supose to last longer.

Marlin sales it.

notanymore

i cant say how higher end clutches are but i sure know cheap clutches dont work. when i rebuilt my engine i went with a cheap $80 shucks clutch and it sucks. balls. just because it says it meets OEM specs doesnt mean it is as good as OEM.

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my truck: 1987 pickup xtra cab sr5 22re 5 speed 4wd, 31x10.5's eb 261c cam, lce header, 2.25 exhaust 120amp Mr. Alternator rear lockrite, optima yellow top
xrc8 winch & AOR bumper coming soon
my bikes: 1980 Honda CX500-1997 honda cbr F3

Bear80

The Toyota remanufactured units are the best choice for a replacement. Looking at your gears and tires, maybe a heavier flywheel and aggressive disk would be a good upgrade. Take a look at the Downey clutches, otherwise stick with the Toyota units.

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1986 Truck - Monster IFS

1997 FZJ80 - Locked, Lifted, Ready
Range Rover Recovery Vehicle

Red3.slow

Ditto I didn't go 80 buck but I went with one close.

"OEM style"

original equipment 189,000

Cheap clutch 8.000 and acts like the old clutch with 186,000

I'm going to try the marlin HD clutch next just to see.

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-Miles

-Firefighter/EMT

T.E.A
Taxed Enough Already

ovrrdrive

When I had my engine swapped about 20k ago I had them change out the clutch too as they said they would do it for the cost of parts alone. I'm sure they went to the store and bought the cheapest clutch they could get their hands on and I'm proud to say that if I hook up really well I can make it slip like hell. With the tires I'm running and the rear locker I can overcome the clutch just about anytime I want to. And forget trying to pull someone out that gets stuck...

It's on my list to upgrade to a heavy duty clutch...

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'95 xcab - SOLD

'03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock

idanity

i have just installed the OEM. (from the dealer) with my new(er) 88 v6

the one i replaced, didnt need to be, (found out when i was doing the job) but compared to the oem one, it did not look halfway as good.
smaller springs, and not as many.
the flywheel was good too. *but i replaced it all*


the springs and quality of my oem looks (and feels) much better.
cannot go wrong w/any clutch that can ride for over 200k and still hold up.

but, i also cannot say anything about mc (which have a great rep.)
so, do some homework, and maybe even drive a few other trucks around that have other style trucks.

Squeebs

I put an autozone brand clutch in my truck....... $250 or so...



I like it. I guess. I mean, it works.

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"Battle Wagon" 1992 Extended Cab, 3.0 with KN intake, black steelies, procomp xtreme all terrains, XM radio, kicker 12" sub, cobra 25ltd CB- R.I.P. 09-09-09

New Baby: 1994 Extended Cab, 22re, AC, Cruise, ProComp Extreme All-Terrains, stock radio, 4-Runner Buckets, Manual Hub Conversion. NEW WORK IN PROGRESS!!!

tortis

i run marlins HD clutch. i hooks up well when i tow a trailer, and has a better feel than OEM. i don't know how much, if any better than the auto parts house brand, but i guess it is peace of mind knowing i have a good clutch. i don't like pulling the trans, t-case very often.

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89 Truck X-tra Cab
LCE Timing Chain
31'' Maxxis Buckshot
4.88's built by ZUK(the mind reader)
Aussie Locker Front and Rear
63'' Chevy Springs
Marlin HD Clutch
Bilstein HD Shocks
2.5" Exhaust W/Dynomax Muffler
2-50 Watt Backup Lights

dcg9381

Stay away from OEM style - autozone, that sort of thing.
You don't need a high clamping force clutch, don't buy one.
However - doing the clutch is a labor intensive job, you only want to do it once. Surface the flywheel, replace the thrust bearing, replace the throw out bearing. I'd use a nice organic clutch from Marlin. I've used the Centerforce I with reasonable success also...

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http://www.22REturbo.net

1990Runner

I put a Centerforce Dual Friction in my old Mustang and it only slightly improved the feel and it was twice the price of OEM, my .02

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1990 SR5 4-Runner 5spd 4X4 stock trim for now Aisin manual hubs

CoedNaked

It always makes me wonder why some guys ask what a good clutch is when their OEM stock clutch just went 150,000+ miles with no issues.

Stick with OEM or Aisin clutches as replacements.

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1993 Xtra Cab Pickup | 4x4 | 3.0 - V6 | R150F | Silver-Grey | Amsoil 10w30 synthetic oil | Amsoil Synthetic Drivetrain fluids|
Borla Cat-back Exhaust | OME HD Leaf Springs | Bilstein HD Shocks | Downey Idler Arm Brace | Grey Husky Liners | SR5 Bucket Seat Swap | Color matched Canopy | Yakima racks | Line-X OTR | Michelin LTX A/T 31 x 10.5 x 15 | 323,600 KM's (202,250 miles) | Made in Japan - Vin starts with "J"| Fish on

FullXTR

For the same reason that people ask what a good tire is when they are looking to replace their worn out BFG all-terrains that lasted them 50000 miles....because we are always wondering if we can get even better value and performance for our money.

I think it's a great question and one that I was also curious as to what people thought. BTW, my two cents is OEM replacement unless you are running big tires with big power. Considering your rig I'd say an upgraded clutch might not be a bad investment (depending on how much of a lead foot you have and what terrain you off-road in).

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'96 4Runner Ltd. Stock for now. 5" Tuff Country lift on order and rear leaf conversion - in progress.

CoedNaked

So you got 150,000+ miiles out of an OEM clutch as an example. What is going to go more than that? How many guys are going to chime in and say "well my OEM clutch went 150,000 miles, but I switched to xxx brand clutch and it went 200,000 miles, so it's better." You're probably not going to find too many people with that story. More likely is you're going to find guys who went 150,000+ miles with a clutch, switched to something other than OEM or Aisin, and got 50,000 or 100,000, or maybe it performed just as well potentially? What do people expect? It's a clutch, it is designed to wear to do it's job. It's the quality of the clutch that determines it's life and useability. The stock clutches are quite user friendly and heavy duty for what they are. I like improvements too but you aren't going to improve over a stock clutch for most appliations - EVEN with bigger tires.

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1993 Xtra Cab Pickup | 4x4 | 3.0 - V6 | R150F | Silver-Grey | Amsoil 10w30 synthetic oil | Amsoil Synthetic Drivetrain fluids|
Borla Cat-back Exhaust | OME HD Leaf Springs | Bilstein HD Shocks | Downey Idler Arm Brace | Grey Husky Liners | SR5 Bucket Seat Swap | Color matched Canopy | Yakima racks | Line-X OTR | Michelin LTX A/T 31 x 10.5 x 15 | 323,600 KM's (202,250 miles) | Made in Japan - Vin starts with "J"| Fish on

Keener

i'm less concerned with the milage i'll get out of it, but rather the performance of it, when i'm stopped on a steep hill and need it to hook up good, or when i need to feather it over some rocks.

thanks for the opinions/ideas guys

Bear80

Hey, only 150k. I got nearly 220k on my ORIGINAL clutch in my '94 3vze 4Runner. Guess what? It wasn't the disk that wore out!! One of the forks on the pressure plate finally fatigued and broke. Infact the disk still had enough material left on it.

Today I just pulled a 6x10 FULLY loaded trailer 200 miles at freeway speeds between 4th and 5th gear, some 3rd. I would never worry about my Toyota rebuilt unit. It didn't even sweet getting off the line, not to mention with my 33" tires. On top of that, I wheel hard and stress the clutch crawling. Genuine Toyota parts can't be beat and go 22re powa

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1986 Truck - Monster IFS

1997 FZJ80 - Locked, Lifted, Ready
Range Rover Recovery Vehicle

WCorbett

Go with the Marlin HD clutch. Great value, Great quality. made for crawling and the tourqe it involves.

Jay351

I love my marlin! Oem feel with tons more force!! I love that it has the stock pedal feel. I will defantly do with this kit again when I eventually wear my current one out.

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91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 250k |2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack | Weasy2k cams | Aisin manual hubs | Diff breather mod| Marlin HD clutch |3" BL | es3000's |2" AAL |1.5" bj spacers | ISR | Alpine headunit | 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears | 4.88's |Rear lockright | 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies |Hella 500's |4" reverse lights| Grant GT |idler arm brace|hella E-codes| Marlin armor |SS IFS brace | %100 Amsoil synthetic


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

pennywize

i got the cheapest i could get at the local napa. clutch kit and new flywheel for $130 total. seems to work great. no slippage yet. a couple times i was stuck in the snow and mud. locked front and back. full throttle, dump the clutch to get some traction and get out, the clutch held and i was finally able to get unstuck.
for crawling, i have 4.7's so i dont have to slip the clutch when taking off.