Engnbldr T chain kit

pruney81 · 11-03-2009, 04:51 PM

This should be a pretty easy question for alot of people on here.
I'm going to do my timing chain soon and I plan on getting the engnbldr kit with driver's side steel rail. So, my question is what comes in the kit? Is it just a new chain and steel rail or tensioner as well?
I ask because $56 seems like a steal and I was wondering if the kit has all I would need or if I need any additional parts, besides a new cover of course.

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olharleyman · 11-03-2009, 04:55 PM

upper and lower gears , chain , tensioner and gasket's

pruney81 · 11-03-2009, 05:04 PM

that's a good deal, did you use his cover as well?
His parts are from RockAuto or am I mistaken?

flyingbrass · 11-03-2009, 05:14 PM

Here's what is in the timing box from my master rebuild kit.

pruney81 · 11-03-2009, 05:21 PM

so, what part of the driver's side guide is steel? it's hard to tell from this pic. It looks to me like where the two bolt holes are is steel but the guide is plastic?

iamsuperbleeder · 11-03-2009, 05:33 PM

the mounting holes are bare steel, and the guide portion is steel as well, but there's a sort of rubberized coating on it

it's a good kit; I run one myself

I also have the Rock Auto cover from engnblder as well; good quality as well

flyingbrass · 11-03-2009, 05:40 PM

Somewhere around half of the thickness of the driver's side guide is rubber/plastic. I thought it would have more and be made of a harder material. I haven't seen any other metal-backed guides up close, so perhaps this is the norm. Personally, I'd feel more comfortable with thicker, denser material on top.

The passenger side guide is all plastic.

Driver's guide:

flyingbrass · 11-03-2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder

it's a good kit; I run one myself

How many miles and years have you run this timing kit?

iamsuperbleeder · 11-03-2009, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyingbrass

How many miles and years have you run this timing kit?

lol, a few months now, about 3500 miles maybe

I installed it with during an entire engine rebuild, at which time I also order from engnbldr a complete engine rebuild kit, .30 over piston set, and Street/RV cyl head with their 261 cam

pruney81 · 11-03-2009, 05:51 PM

that's a good question, how does anyone think the engnbldr kit would hold up as opposed to if I just went with stock Toyota parts. I ask this because my friend works for a Toyota dealer and he gets a discount on parts. He will be helping me with the install as well and he is always knocking "cheap after market parts", so he says.

iamsuperbleeder · 11-03-2009, 06:15 PM

hands down, the aftermarket steel-backed guide is going to outlast even the OEM full plastic guide...

every once in a while, an aftermarket product DOES surpass OEM quality... it doesn't happen often, ESPECIALLY when talking about Toyota parts, but every once in a while...

874runnersr5 · 11-03-2009, 06:18 PM

x3. for my kit

olharleyman · 11-03-2009, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder

hands down, the aftermarket steel-backed guide is going to outlast even the OEM full plastic guide...

I guess there no need for me to add anything more other even I too am running the Master kit 268 cam .020 over with this timing kit from eb and have 7-750 miles on mine and you not find a better person or people(Ted&Tod) to deal with and they stand behind their word and products no questions asked 99% of the time.

pruney81 · 11-03-2009, 06:27 PM

I'm definitely going to get it, I just wanted to look at some nice pics and get some reassurance I guess. And Yotatech delivered as always!

flyingbrass · 11-03-2009, 06:29 PM

I'm no expert, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn.

The positions I've seen are:

OEM, not cheap knock-off, plastic guides are best. They are of good quality (which may also vary over time), not made by some unknown manufacturer using melted crayons or whatever. Good for 100K+ miles. When the plastic wears down enough or whatever happens, they break. You hear the noise and say, "I don't remember feeding spoons into my timing cover." No steel shavings are being ground off and dumped into your oil. Aluminum yes, but at least it's softer.

Metal backed guides are best because even the best plastic ones have a tendency to break. A metal backing plate usually prevents breakage.

As for long-term wear, I don't know. I'm half-tempted myself to buy an OEM plastic driver side guide after seeing this one. My old original driver guide was broken and chewed to hell, but would the metal backed one with the thin, soft coating I have now fare any better? Will it be worse?

Take a look at http://benmlee.com/index.html in general. http://benmlee.com/Engine2/Engine2_timing.htm in particular offers one perspective on timing components. Note that Engnbldr now supplies OSK tensioners.

iamsuperbleeder · 11-03-2009, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pruney81

I'm definitely going to get it, I just wanted to look at some nice pics and get some reassurance I guess. And Yotatech delivered as always!

good choice

On a side note, MAKE SURE you read the instructions that come with the kit. There's specific instructions on installing the new tenioner; it is only tightened to a specified torque spec, that is a tad lower than OEM spec. I think this was actually brought up very recently in another thread. But anyhow, yeah just make sure you read the paperwork

olharleyman · 11-03-2009, 06:39 PM

As for long-term wear, I don't know. I'm half-tempted myself to buy an OEM plastic driver side guide after seeing this one. My old original driver guide was broken and chewed to hell, but would the metal backed one with the thin, soft coating I have now fare any better? Will it be worse?

make sure to pull your oil pan and get all them chunks of plastic out of it or you could end up with an even worse issue then just a chewed to hell plastic guide.

flyingbrass · 11-03-2009, 06:41 PM

12 ft. lbs. max on the tensioner bolts, and use an accurate torque wrench, preferably 3/8" or 1/4" drive, not some 1/2" monster that goes up to 150 ft/lbs. or more and probably isn't accurate at such low settings.

flyingbrass · 11-03-2009, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olharleyman

make sure to pull your oil pan and get all them chunks of plastic out of it or you could end up with an even worse issue then just a chewed to hell plastic guide.

Definitely. If guides are broken (or may have been in the past), pull the pan and clean it out. Otherwise, chunks can stick on the oil pickup screen, block your oil flow, and cause big problems.

My oil pan went off to the machine shop for cleaning along with the rest of my engine parts several weeks ago.

pruney81 · 11-03-2009, 06:46 PM

flyingbrass, that is some interesting reading. There are two ways I could go with this:
1. Save some money and get the engnbldr kit.
2. Spend a little more and get the OEM Toyota parts which will most likely last another 100K miles which will be the life of the truck anyways.
I know a lot of people on here have rebuilt their motor's recently and used engnbldr part's but I would like a response from people who have been running engnbldr kit's for years and tons of miles....

flyingbrass · 11-03-2009, 07:18 PM

>but I would like a response from people who have been running engnbldr kit's for years and tons of miles....

So would I.

Ted is an extremely nice and helpful guy. No doubt about it. But, that isn't reason to give the parts he sells a blind stamp of approval.

TOYOTA 1 · 11-03-2009, 07:23 PM

just for an fyi, d&j rock products is not affiliated with rock auto.

o.s.k all day, from www.22re.com or the stealership.

pruney81 · 11-03-2009, 07:28 PM

so, engnbldr uses d&j rock products?

TOYOTA 1 · 11-03-2009, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyingbrass

>but I would like a response from people who have been running engnbldr kit's for years and tons of miles....

So would I.

Ted is an extremely nice and helpful guy. No doubt about it. But, that isn't reason to give the parts he sells a blind stamp of approval.

i would never question eb about there great sevice either, but the parts he sells are cheap tiawanese parts.

x3 on getting some feedback from someone that has puts these parts threw the ringer.

TOYOTA 1 · 11-03-2009, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pruney81

so, engnbldr uses d&j rock products?

yes...

11-03-2009, 04:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
olharleyman Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: maryland Posts: 3,291	upper and lower gears , chain , tensioner and gasket's __________________ 1990 4 runner 5 Speed Pro Comp Stage II 4" Lift 6" coils rear Aussie Locker front 5.29's Front And Rear 35 x 12.5 x 15 MT's Micky Thompson Classic II Wheels Super Charged 3.4 on the way 1993 SAS 4runner 22re 5 speed 4" front 5"rear 5.29's 35 x 12.5 BFG KM'S Dick cepek DC 1's 88 stock 4runner 3.0 auto for now 1955 Harley Davidson Springer Stock 1955 Hardtail Frame 4 Speed Kick Start Only 1998 Harley Custom Dresser 107 rwhp 139 ft.lbs.trq.

11-03-2009, 05:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
pruney81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 828	that's a good deal, did you use his cover as well? His parts are from RockAuto or am I mistaken? __________________ 90 22RE 4WD stick 97K miles stock, except for Bilsteins Last edited by pruney81; 11-03-2009 at 05:07 PM.

11-03-2009, 05:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 190	Here's what is in the timing box from my master rebuild kit. __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Currently rebuilding the engine.

11-03-2009, 05:21 PM	#5 (permalink)
pruney81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 828	so, what part of the driver's side guide is steel? it's hard to tell from this pic. It looks to me like where the two bolt holes are is steel but the guide is plastic? __________________ 90 22RE 4WD stick 97K miles stock, except for Bilsteins Last edited by pruney81; 11-03-2009 at 05:26 PM.

11-03-2009, 05:33 PM	#6 (permalink)
iamsuperbleeder Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Casselberry, Fl Posts: 5,259	the mounting holes are bare steel, and the guide portion is steel as well, but there's a sort of rubberized coating on it it's a good kit; I run one myself I also have the Rock Auto cover from engnblder as well; good quality as well __________________ 91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system MySpace

11-03-2009, 05:40 PM	#7 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 190	Somewhere around half of the thickness of the driver's side guide is rubber/plastic. I thought it would have more and be made of a harder material. I haven't seen any other metal-backed guides up close, so perhaps this is the norm. Personally, I'd feel more comfortable with thicker, denser material on top. The passenger side guide is all plastic. Driver's guide: __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Currently rebuilding the engine. Last edited by flyingbrass; 11-03-2009 at 05:41 PM.

11-03-2009, 05:51 PM	#10 (permalink)
pruney81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 828	that's a good question, how does anyone think the engnbldr kit would hold up as opposed to if I just went with stock Toyota parts. I ask this because my friend works for a Toyota dealer and he gets a discount on parts. He will be helping me with the install as well and he is always knocking "cheap after market parts", so he says. __________________ 90 22RE 4WD stick 97K miles stock, except for Bilsteins

11-03-2009, 06:15 PM	#11 (permalink)
iamsuperbleeder Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Casselberry, Fl Posts: 5,259	hands down, the aftermarket steel-backed guide is going to outlast even the OEM full plastic guide... every once in a while, an aftermarket product DOES surpass OEM quality... it doesn't happen often, ESPECIALLY when talking about Toyota parts, but every once in a while... __________________ 91 PU, 4wd, manual, 22re, .30-over, engnbldr RV head and 261 cam, MC 1200lbs clutch, misc LCE, engnbldr, and MC parts and HW, Pacesetter header and exhaust kit, Rancho UCA's , 4Crawler 1" diff and sway bar drop and 1.5" BJ spacers, WabFab 3.5" shackles, 31x10.5 pavement-pounding ATs on ProComp Extreme Alloys, misc SR5 interior goodies swapped in, 1000watt stereo system MySpace Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 11-03-2009 at 06:20 PM.

11-03-2009, 06:18 PM	#12 (permalink)
874runnersr5 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Calgary, AB Canaduh Posts: 2,786	x3. for my kit __________________ 87' 4runner Sr5 : 22re : 5spd : 32x11.5 BGF Km2 : Cragar 15x8 soft 8s : TG Rock Defense Front Bumper : Sirius radio : Optima Red Top : Pioneer system : Engnbldr tchain kit : Downey 3" leafs : Diff breather : Tube doors : Bikini Top Calgary Toyota Association I <3 my Toyota

11-03-2009, 06:27 PM	#14 (permalink)
pruney81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 828	I'm definitely going to get it, I just wanted to look at some nice pics and get some reassurance I guess. And Yotatech delivered as always! __________________ 90 22RE 4WD stick 97K miles stock, except for Bilsteins

11-03-2009, 06:29 PM	#15 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 190	I'm no expert, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn. The positions I've seen are: OEM, not cheap knock-off, plastic guides are best. They are of good quality (which may also vary over time), not made by some unknown manufacturer using melted crayons or whatever. Good for 100K+ miles. When the plastic wears down enough or whatever happens, they break. You hear the noise and say, "I don't remember feeding spoons into my timing cover." No steel shavings are being ground off and dumped into your oil. Aluminum yes, but at least it's softer. Metal backed guides are best because even the best plastic ones have a tendency to break. A metal backing plate usually prevents breakage. As for long-term wear, I don't know. I'm half-tempted myself to buy an OEM plastic driver side guide after seeing this one. My old original driver guide was broken and chewed to hell, but would the metal backed one with the thin, soft coating I have now fare any better? Will it be worse? Take a look at http://benmlee.com/index.html in general. http://benmlee.com/Engine2/Engine2_timing.htm in particular offers one perspective on timing components. Note that Engnbldr now supplies OSK tensioners. __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Currently rebuilding the engine. Last edited by flyingbrass; 11-03-2009 at 07:45 PM.

11-03-2009, 06:39 PM	#17 (permalink)
olharleyman Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: maryland Posts: 3,291	As for long-term wear, I don't know. I'm half-tempted myself to buy an OEM plastic driver side guide after seeing this one. My old original driver guide was broken and chewed to hell, but would the metal backed one with the thin, soft coating I have now fare any better? Will it be worse? make sure to pull your oil pan and get all them chunks of plastic out of it or you could end up with an even worse issue then just a chewed to hell plastic guide. __________________ 1990 4 runner 5 Speed Pro Comp Stage II 4" Lift 6" coils rear Aussie Locker front 5.29's Front And Rear 35 x 12.5 x 15 MT's Micky Thompson Classic II Wheels Super Charged 3.4 on the way 1993 SAS 4runner 22re 5 speed 4" front 5"rear 5.29's 35 x 12.5 BFG KM'S Dick cepek DC 1's 88 stock 4runner 3.0 auto for now 1955 Harley Davidson Springer Stock 1955 Hardtail Frame 4 Speed Kick Start Only 1998 Harley Custom Dresser 107 rwhp 139 ft.lbs.trq.

11-03-2009, 06:41 PM	#18 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 190	12 ft. lbs. max on the tensioner bolts, and use an accurate torque wrench, preferably 3/8" or 1/4" drive, not some 1/2" monster that goes up to 150 ft/lbs. or more and probably isn't accurate at such low settings. __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Currently rebuilding the engine.

11-03-2009, 06:46 PM	#20 (permalink)
pruney81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 828	flyingbrass, that is some interesting reading. There are two ways I could go with this: 1. Save some money and get the engnbldr kit. 2. Spend a little more and get the OEM Toyota parts which will most likely last another 100K miles which will be the life of the truck anyways. I know a lot of people on here have rebuilt their motor's recently and used engnbldr part's but I would like a response from people who have been running engnbldr kit's for years and tons of miles.... __________________ 90 22RE 4WD stick 97K miles stock, except for Bilsteins

11-03-2009, 07:18 PM	#21 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 190	>but I would like a response from people who have been running engnbldr kit's for years and tons of miles.... So would I. Ted is an extremely nice and helpful guy. No doubt about it. But, that isn't reason to give the parts he sells a blind stamp of approval. __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Currently rebuilding the engine.

11-03-2009, 07:28 PM	#23 (permalink)
pruney81 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 828	so, engnbldr uses d&j rock products? __________________ 90 22RE 4WD stick 97K miles stock, except for Bilsteins

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