Engine won't stay running
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#23
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AFM from Toyota $689.00. AFM for Autozone $179.99 HUH.... What the hell. Is it you get what you pay for. I called Toyota he said buy the one from the Zone. Make sure it has a full refund warranty. If it dosen't work or dosn't work long take it back then call them.
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ok, so the readings fall within range? If so, then it's OK. If not, then go for the cheapie or try a buddies working as a for sure test.
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I still like the idea of swapping a buddies out. I guess I'm skeptical of ohm readings, but it's only one way of testing.
If you get the cheapie, make sure you can take it back. I'm sure it used to be a Toyota part, but who knows the quality. Lifetime warranty should take care of that though.
Last edited by JEBSR5; 04-04-2007 at 03:15 PM.
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Update... I checked the AFM with an OHM meter. On the E2-VS it should read 20-400. Mine was reading from 576-586. Bad AFM? Everything else checked out. E2-VC should be 100-300 read 180, E2-VB should be 200-400 read 280, E2 Tha should be 2K-3K read 2.40 on the 20K setting, so that is 2400 right? Anyway time for a new AFM?
The result should be a smooth resistance change from low to high. When you read the 576, I assume you had the gate fully closed. This is out of spec, if you did what you thought you did.
Check it again, but make sure you can keep the probes on E2-VS. Move gate slowly to fully open, and see if the readings are continuous and smooth as you go towards the fully open position.
AFM's are not cheap, so make sure its bad before you spend the bucks. It seems unlikely that it went bad from the time you started your mod. I assume you had no symptoms before you started the work.
Lastly, like the TPS, think of what the AFM is doing. It is trying to provide two readings back the ECM. One tells the ECM whether the Gate is open or closed. As soon as the gate goes from closed to open, the ECM notes the other value (the one you think might be wrong). From that point, the ECM can tell the angular displacement of the gate, by how much the resistance increases relative to the start point it noted at the transistion from closed to open.
If the AFM is working correctly, you also need to make sure the values get through the connector to the ECM.
Last edited by rdharper; 04-04-2007 at 03:58 PM.
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I thought that was what you meant, but making sure. That would probably cause a problem. Swap it out.
I still like the idea of swapping a buddies out. I guess I'm skeptical of ohm readings, but it's only one way of testing.
If you get the cheapie, make sure you can take it back. I'm sure it used to be a Toyota part, but who knows the quality. Lifetime warranty should take care of that though.
I still like the idea of swapping a buddies out. I guess I'm skeptical of ohm readings, but it's only one way of testing.
If you get the cheapie, make sure you can take it back. I'm sure it used to be a Toyota part, but who knows the quality. Lifetime warranty should take care of that though.
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No problem, also pay close attention what RDHarper says, he has been a big help to me. Just cover all your bases before spending dollars.
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Update #2, new AFM is on and truck is running. Thanks JEB, rdharper, Flash319, and 4runnerX3 for all your help. I went with the AFM from Autozone. It's a genuine re-manufactured NipponDenso, with a 1 year warranty. $245.00 drive out with a $50.00 core so that's $195.00 VS $689.00 from Toyota. I'll take my chances. The truck idles really fast now but that's easily fixed. Well got go, on the Boss's computer. Thanks again!!!!!
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Update #2, new AFM is on and truck is running. Thanks JEB, rdharper, Flash319, and 4runnerX3 for all your help. I went with the AFM from Autozone. It's a genuine re-manufactured NipponDenso, with a 1 year warranty. $245.00 drive out with a $50.00 core so that's $195.00 VS $689.00 from Toyota. I'll take my chances. The truck idles really fast now but that's easily fixed. Well got go, on the Boss's computer. Thanks again!!!!!
Because of the failure mechanism on this part (wear on the conductive plate), it makes sense to give a re-manufactured original part a chance as opposed to purchasing a used part.
Let us know if it fails... normal life on the original is (based on a small sample) upwards of 200k miles.
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