DanStew

After searching the threads, i couldnt find a definitive answer to an engine noise I have. I started to discuss it in another thread but watned a seperate post for this.

This is a 22RE

The porblem. Very loud sound when engine is first started. Especially when it is cold. IT sounds like the timing belt is slapping the sides. Only lasts 1-2 seconds then goes completely away. If the engine was shut down and restarted while warm the sound will not happen.

I adjusted the valves. When doing that i checked the timing chain and guides, they are all in excellent shape, the timing chain looks brand new, and there is no looseness. I havent tried the screwdriver to the ear or stethescope. But it is a definate loud sound.

Is there any other possiblities rather than timing chain noise? The pulleys seem to be fine (as found in other posts) everything seems kosher.

But I am curious about what oiling issues there is. Since it seems that it is effected by oil pressure. And it defiantely is not a rod knock.

Thanks

abeaudin1971

What engine is it?

22R/RE - 3.0v6 etc?

DanStew

I edited it. It is a 4 banger

Flash319

That is normal for a 22RE. The timing CHAIN tensioner works under oil presure. It takes a second to get pressure when started. Try running a Toyota oil filter. They have a drain back valve in them (apparently) that could help this.

If it is very loud ( I know hard to explain) one of your chain guides may be broken. If I were you I would pull the valve cover (5 min job) and have a look at the guides. If they are okay then I would not worry. If it starts to sound like a diesel all the time your tensioner is done.

DanStew

Yeah the guides look fine. Everything was new looking for the chain .I cycled the engine by hand and inspected the chain and it was so clean and shiney. I will try the toyota filter. i ahvent changed the oil yet. What weigh oil has been good for these motors? In Florida i would run straight 30 weight in my motors. Now that i am in south carolina i will expereince colder temps.

Thanks

Flash319

I stick with 10W30 but I am in Canada. I run that even at -30C. Just follow the manual and I think 10W30 is probebly fine for you.

abeaudin1971

Mine was making the diesel like sound (tho I didn't know what it was at first)

It would make a clatter at startup and one of the guides was broken (it's on the right hand mid side of the photo and the tensioner was worn out.. see it compared to the new one.

My guide was broken which told me I needed to replace it but it it wasn't broken I would hazard a guess that it was only a matter of time before one of them did break.

Starts right up now, quiet and no rattle.

DanStew

Well good and bad news. I went back out tonight and pulled the valve cover to have another looksy. Still the guides are in great shape. BUT the driver side of the chain was very loose. I knew before it was tight. So i put a socket on the crank and turned it over, and it did get tight, but then loose again. I am not sure what stroke it is on when it tightenes the driver side, but all other parts of the rotation the driver side is loose. BUT the guides are in good shape go figure.
So it looks like i will go ahead and try and knock out a timing chain tomorrow. Bottom line what do i need? Timing chain kit, and head gasket since i will be doing it that way. I am not going to do the water pump as of now, but anything that is necessary to repalce ?

Flash319

I would do it without pulling the head unless you want to. I have done 4 timing chain jobs and have never pulled the head. Makes it much faster and less chance of things going wrong. Just loosen the oil pan and drop the front of it a bit. Be careful not to damage the head gasket when you remove the chain cover.

P.S. being loose on the drivers side does not mean you have a problem. It depends on where the engine stopped. The crank is pulling the cam shaft so without oil pressure in the tensioner ther cam can move ahead a little making the chain slack.

DanStew

From one of the writeups i have seen for the timnig chain it says just to remove the front two bolts, bot even lower the oil pan. I would prefer to do this way, but i get conflicting writeups.

abeaudin1971

I just did mine last weekend - having never done one before.

I did it without removing the head or the oil pan - just the two bolts at the front of the pan - be careful putting the timing cover back on at the head side - my head gasket folded a little (ouch) but there aren't any leaks

I got a timing chain kit, a rocker gasket set and a timing cover gasket set (includes the water pump gasket) a gallon of antifreeze and engine oil and filter.

DanStew

Seems like the worst thing is removing it all. I did the belt on my old samurai abotu 4 months ago and that was pretty easy. Now to wait for the local parts store to open up.

Flash319

You can just do the front 2 bolts but the cover is sandwitched in between the head and the pan. The more slack you have on the pan the better when putting back together. Just loosen the front few maybe, up to you.

It is not that bad of a job if you know all the tricks like drop the oil pan, crack the main pully bolt on the end of the crank before you get to far into it, 2 hidden bolts one comes through the head at the front by the big sprocket and there is one on the drivers side that goes through the cover from the back by the coolent tube. Also remember that the bolt unter the timing tab on the oil pump goes right through the cover and WILL stop the tensioner from working if the bolt it to long. Make sure you mark the one you take out.

DanStew

Thanks guys!! In the process of taking it apart now. i have the radiator out, and am going to loosen the crank nut. No wonder labor is so much, you have to take so much out just to get at it. OH well. Back to surgery i go.

Flash319

Since its your first time it seams long but it is easy, more then I can say for most cars/trucks on the road today. Try changing a timing belt on a RAV4. I would rather be hung by my eyelids. Front wheel drives suck!!!!

Another thing, when you get it back together run it with the rad cap off until the thermostat opends. When you get air in there it will rev up and down and up and down until the air is out. It will seam funny but it will sort itself out.

Oh ya if you are having a hard time with the crank nut use a long bar and jam it under the frame rail and hit the starter for a second.

881stGenRunner

ha try changing the belt on the 3.0, nuff said

DanStew

Well i did have to call it a night, will go at it a bit tomorrow night. It isnt the first timnig belt/chain for me, but this is a new type motor. Right now i am fighting all the gunk and oil that has slathered the engine, so finding what bolts hold what is very interesting. And also finding that toyota makes their bolts out of lead since i have been having a time at not rounding off a few bolts, but fortunately i have gotten them out. As of now i have the dizzy, power steering and alternator off. I have the crank pulley soaking in PB blaster to try and loosen it up.

I do have a few questions. The alternator bracket does it fully come off? it looks like it is part of the driver side motor mount. And i ahve to figure out how to remove the AC compressor, that is next. After that i need to clean off the front of the engine to see where all the bolts are. When i got the rig, the engine looked real clean, but after i got under all the parts, boy is it filthy. hehehehe OH well, i had to walk away i was getting a bit frustrated. but it will get done.