MorphiasX

My truck has a loud clicking noise coming from the front end when in 4x4 with the hubs locked. It started a while ago only when turning, and now it does it no matter if im turning or going straight. If the hubs are locked but the transfer case is in 2WD, it doesnt click, if the hubs are unlocked and the transfer case is in 4WD, it doesnt click... only when hubs are locked and in 4WD. The CV boots are not torn, and there are no signs of grease escaping, so I wouldnt think its the CV joints, I repacked the wheel bearings and that did not help it, I greased the driveshafts and U-joints, that didnt help either. Any ideas? I did search, but could not find an exact answer...

InternetRoadkill

Sounds like a bad u-joint or CV joint. Crawl underneath and give them a good shake to check for play in them.

4banginRunner

check the hubs? maybe time to rip them apart and clean those, mine clicked alot and then i cleaned them..sound went away

Corbit

Shot CV joints , if it's happenning when you turn that is the givaway. You could try greasing them.

tombothetominator

Sounds like either hubs (sounds more like it) or CVs to me (and apparently, most everybody else as well).

Take the hubs off: thiscan probably be done with the wheels still on the truck, just remove the 6 bolts on the top, remove the top part of the hub, loosen the bolts holding on the hub body, use a tiny screwdriver in the conewasher and tap it with a hammer to get them to pop out (if this doesn't work you may want to take the wheel off and give the knuckle a couple of love taps with a hammer to make the cone washers 'pop' out), and give the hubs a solid inspection. Clean out all old grease, put in new grease, gaskets, and inner o-ring (around the hub dial). Also take a quick peak at the end of the cv shaft at this point and make sure there isn't any damage to it.
Then make sure that the clutch is fully engaging/disengaging with the hub dial. See if you are still getting the clicking after this.

If not, then it is probably the CV, at which point you remove wheel, hub, gold bolt in end of shaft, snap ring holding shaft to knuckle, 6 nuts holding cv to differential flange, lower shock mount, and swaybar endlink. Then push down on lower control arm and you should be able pop the CV off of the differential flange and it will slide out of the knuckle. Then install new shaft. Autozone will sell you a new cv with lifetime warranty (which does cover boots) for ~$70.

Of course, i'm no mechanic, so this is just what i would do.

MorphiasX

Ive already had the hubs off, they appear fine. As stated, I repacked the wheel bearings and put new grease and seals in thinking that was why it was clicking, but it still clicks after I did that. I guess it is probably the CV joints. This sucks too because I dont really want to put a bunch of money into the IFS, I have a solid axle sitting in my garage ready to go on, but im nowhere near ready to put it on, I still need the coilovers and links. I really just need it to work fine for now so that I can still wheel it. Do you guys think it is harmful to have it the way it is now?

Yotapup

Sounds like the hubs are not locking in. Are you absolutely sure the hubs are put together correctly?

coldwiz

Someone put a lockright locker in while you were sleeping?

Did you try just locking in one hub and not the other to see it that makes a difference? Could help you narrow it down to a particular side.

tombothetominator

Good call.