Tiny22

After recently rebuilding my '94 22-RE, it seems like the timing is off. I thought the distributor was possibly a tooth off, but I fidgeted with it and i have the rotor poiting directly at #1 at TDC. I did use the jumper when setting the timing. I even pulled the valve cover back off and checked the camshaft sprocket to make sure no teeth were jumped there...nope. Everything seems like its where it supposed to be, yet when the truck runs, theres no power and it backfires through the intake. Im sure theres something i possibly looked over, but any suggestions would be great!!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You might find this post helpful and informative. It's a well done video.

You're likely 180* off, or have the plugs hooked up in the wrong order.

Tiny22

Ok great, ill watch that vid and give my truck another look ovet. Thanks and ill keep posted on what i find.

Tiny22

Sorry i wasnt able to work on the truck yesterday.. Ok so i checked the plugs and they are wired correctly. With the crankshaft turned to 5° BTDC, the dizzy rotor is poiting dead at #1 spark plug. And the truck will run, but with the timing set this way (which nearly drives me crazy because im almost positive its right) the motor is VERY sluggish, and backfires through the intake. Its like its starving for more advanced timing, yet, if i advance it the valves start ticking. I positive as well that its not 180° off because both rocker arms on #1 cylinder are loose at TDC. I apologize this is super long, just trying to fit all the details!

Redneck_Yota7

How far are you advancing it when it gets the tick? I run mine at 12 degrees BTDC

Tiny22

I think the valves were ticking past 12° BTDC, but when the timing is that far off is the only time it has substantial power. But maybe i can check it out again this morning and let you know tonight after work. Was yours sluggish at 5° BTDC too? Oh, and just to mention, at 5°, the truck idles at like 1,000. But any more advanced sends the idle higher.

Tiny22

I just read another thread about a problem with the TPS. could it be a factor?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You may have valve or head damage. eg. blow-by, could be a sticking or mis-adjusted valve. A cam problem like stretched head bolts or worn bearing surfaces, allowing the cam to flop around.

Verify the valve adjustment. FSM Page MA-11

Could be ECU learned behavior.

Reset the ECU, pull the EFI main fuse located in the engine fuse box.

The important point is the transition, it's covered in the video. Also remeber it is a four stroke engine.

Performing the test and adjustments are only a bad thing if they are done wrong. I don't see how it effects the timing to the degree it would fire with the intake valve open, but I guess it could. The throttle position sensor, the air flow meter, and the crank position sensor all help the computer with the timing and fuel mixture.


Does the intake fire happen when you have the jumper in for setting the timing? If no intake fire and resetting the ECU didn't stop it from happening, it narrows down the problem areas.

Also I forget if it's mentioned above or not. Perform the AFM test. The tps afm and crank sensor all are critical parts of the ignition timing. If it's not one of those out of spec, it may be the ECU or wireing.

scope103

Not to be presumptuous: are you using a timing light to measure the ignition timing? Setting timing "by ear" is an invitation to blow a hole in a piston (pre-detonation).

PismoJoe

If you're 180* off, it won't run at all.

Tiny22

Thanks for the info!! I dont think i can swing anything tonite, but hopefully tomorrow. Ill keep posted with what i find. That certainly gave me much more to narrow down And another thing i noticed is when i put the jumper in, it hardly affects the rpms?.. And yes, ive used a timing a light, definitely dont want a hole in the head of a brand new piston!!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

RPM arent supposed to change, it's already supposed to be warmed up so it'll be using the hot/low idle. While in "test mode"/jumpered (partly documented in the 3z section of the FSM, but not the 22r) it tells the computer to use the fixed ignition timing so it doesn't fluctuate.

But i've been wrong before.. And will again

Tiny22

So i was finally able to tinker with it some more tonight. But the only thing i had time to do was reset the ecu. Annnddd nothing changed...yippee i pulled the efi fuse for about ten minutes. so that would rule out the ecu right? i really wanted to test the tps tonite but couldnt. I started the truck, used the jumper and revved the engine, with the same result of backfire through the intake..UNLESS you give it about 10% throttle and let it climb its way through rpm's. It idles good right at 800, but the valves sound like marbles in a tin can. I figure you cant really narrow it down a whole lot since i didnt do much with it tonite, but i really appreciate the help you have given so far!!

Tiny22

I revved the truck with the jumper in, and with it out, and it does the same thing. I know its gotta be somethin simple here.

z31freakify

your timing is off simple trick: Take sparkplug #1 off, grab a piece of toilet paper stuff it in the sparkplug hole, turn the engine manualy with a ratchet untill you see that piece of paper fly off (be carefull as it comes out like a bullet) once thats done grab your oil dip stick put it in the sparkplug hole then turn it again untill you fill the piston is all the way up you will feal it right away as it has some slack make sure your at TDC check your cam too see if it aligns with the mark if it does check your dizzy and put it pointing directly too cylinder #1 on the dizzy cap and it should solve your problem if not you got some other issue

snobdds

There are 2 types of timing; cam and ignition.

Check cam timing first by making sure the dimple on the cam sprocket is at about 11:45 while centered in the odd color chain, and while at TDC. If that is good then you have to be a tooth off in timing.

Search youtube, there are tons of great videos on how to set timing.

scope103

"one tooth off" is about 27 degrees. If you're able to get it to 5 and 12 BTDC, you are not off a tooth on the distributor.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Here are a couple of videos that I like that might help. One of the toughest problems i ran into was new plug wires out of the box, I had a defective coil wire. Run a resistance check on them. One video is already posted. Sometimes when you are stuck in the same area, try checking other areas. How is the coils measurements, vacuum lines routed properly, good electrical connections...? Just something to get you out of your rut and get a different view of it. Sometimes having to start back at the basics will get you out of something you may have overlooked.


A Timing Video I like Better. Set Crankshaft pulley to 5 degrees.
Timing Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qEQM...ature=youtu.be

Easy way to install distributor on Youtube.

Tiny22

Thanks guys definitely a few more things to double check here. Im human and definitely could be wrong, but ive checked my timing so many times, the bright link in the chain lines up with the dot on the camshaft sprocket. At 5BTDC, camshaft sprocket sits at 11:55, and rotor in the dizzy points at #1. Ill definitely check everything again, and also perform some of these other tests for tps, afm, and cps.

88toy4wd

I am having the same issues, and would like to know what you find out. Mine is a 88 22re