boneychi

I have a '94 pickup with the 3vze engine. I basically have 2 questions. I stripped the top-frontmost camshaft cap bolt hole on the Passenger Side (RH). It is one of the ones with the dowel pin surrounding it.

1) Should I attempt to drill it and helicoil it myself? (I'm good with tools. 20 years a carpenter). This is my first time tearing down the top end of an engine.

2) If i attempt to do it myself, do I have to take the head off and do it with a drill press, or would it be possible to do it with the head still on. (I just replaced the headgaskets. Not sure if I would have to replace the headgasket again or not).

I also have seen that people suggest putting a threaded stud in the hole, and place a washer and lock nut to torque on top. Because there are still some good threads left at the bottom of the hole. But I'm not sure I like that idea.
Just needing some guidance and suggestions.
Thanks for any help.

Boney

GDR

I just lost 2 myself recently. Just use a longer bolt. Studs are better if you can get them. Helicoil is the last resort. You should take the head off for this and use a drill press or mill.That means getting new head gaskets and head bolts.Might as well get new hollow dowels too. i'm sure they'll get messed up trying to get them out unless you have a slide hammer with the right size collet for them.

GeeVee

Take the head off and chase the threads, then try the longer bolt with a torque wrench to see if it will take up. If not, tap and stud it.

Wrenchinjoe

You shouldn't have to pull the head back off to make this repair. Here is a thread where is was done (it may even be the same bolt as yours).

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...22/index7.html

Looks like a messy job but pack the area with shop rags to keep the metal shavings from getting into the engine.

This is a pretty common problem, hopefully it is the only one you have to deal with.

boneychi

Thanks everyone for you replies.

So I went to Toyota, guy was of no help, of course. On the way home, I drove by Orchard Supply Hardware and decided to stop and see what they had in stock. I looked all over their bolt selection. Everything was Standard, just as I thought it would be. But at the end of the aisle was an automotive clip/fastener section with alot of different stuff. Lo and behold I actually found an M8 1.25 threaded stud. (woohoo!!!) They had about 8 different lengths. From 48mm to I think about 80mm in length. They had M10 studs also for anyone looking for that size by chance. Unfortunately, they didnt have any metric nuts or cut washers. The 1/4 inch cut washer seems a tad bit big.

When I am done with this part of the project, I will specify the exact length of the stud I used. The threaded stud needs to be a head longer than the full length of the stock bolt (as far as I can tell). That way, it will seat all the way down to the bottom of the hole where there are still good threads to work with. That along with retapping the full length of the whole makes this seem like a very good fix.

I will keep all of you posted. Thank you very much for your inputs.

Boney

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

You might want to clean that hole out well and throw some threadlock on that stud too. Every little bit of holding power will help. I stripped the same one and just JBwelded the bolt in ... probably not the best solution but working for now. I figured if it didn't hold I would retap for a larger bolt.

boneychi

So yes,

I found a stud that will work at Orchard Supply. I also went back and realized there was a whole aisle that had metric sizes. So I found washers and nuts.

My new question is should i use a regular hex nut with a cut washer or a nylon lock nut with a regular washer, on the top of the threaded stud? Because i'm nervous of the clearance to the valve cover, I think hex nut and lock washer would be best. Does that sound right?

Thanks again
Boney

fierohink

Screw clearence, I'd be more worried about the heat the nyloc nut would be exposed to.

boneychi

Ah!! Heh. Just a little more brain power and i swear I would have thought of that. Anyways. Thanks for the help. I'm going to put the camshaft on again later today. I'll keep you all posted

Thanks
Jim

phjohnso

so i came across this thread after a google search last weekend and I was surprised to find that you had the exact problem i had only a week earlier! I picked up a longer bolt and was able to get 12 lbs torque out of it. Looks like it's going to work fine. Thanks for the advice!

phjohnso

question for you in the know: I'm reinstalling the timing belt after replacing the head gaskets and i'm not sure if i should rotate the passenger side cam pulley by hand so that the factory tic marks line up. Will this risk bending valve stems??? Maybe an obvious question, but I'm learning as i go. Thanks!

Wrenchinjoe

You can rotate the cam pulley without harm, this is a non-interferance engine so the valves will not come in contact with the pistons. The timing marks have to line up in order to make sure your cams are in time with the crank shaft. I would rotate it clockwise though... that is the direction the cams & crank shaft rotate when the engine is running.

TiCain

Just did a head gasket job my 3vze, you can turn your cam with no problems, valves will not contact piston on this motor, which is nice if ya ever break a belt.

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

Just make sure you got everything all lubed up!!

phjohnso

thanks for the help! I rotated it last night, everything is synced up now and i will be installing the timing belt this weekend.