bj spacer install q's
08-22-2007, 07:56 PM
#21
Registered User
not sure Frank its a refurb from Autozone.
I'll get back under that front end this weekend after the alignment is all done and double check its still the only side binding a bit.
I'll get back under that front end this weekend after the alignment is all done and double check its still the only side binding a bit.
08-22-2007, 07:56 PM
#22
From:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml
Tires on rims with the stock backspacing of 4.75" might have tire rubbing issues with 31" or smaller tires.
* This is dependent on tire geometry, most clear but a few don't.
* This can be often be remedied by filing/trimming the end of the a-arm lip and/or using rim spacers. Rims with 4.5" or less of backspacing clear all tires known so far.
* A 1/4" wheel spacer is also an option for fitting stock wheels with clearance issues.
* This is dependent on tire geometry, most clear but a few don't.
* This can be often be remedied by filing/trimming the end of the a-arm lip and/or using rim spacers. Rims with 4.5" or less of backspacing clear all tires known so far.
* A 1/4" wheel spacer is also an option for fitting stock wheels with clearance issues.
08-22-2007, 09:22 PM
#23
Contributing Member
I have no binding at full droop.
Torsion bar adjustment does NOTHING to affect cv axle angle, only the bumpstops change that.
DO NOT change out your upper bumpstops for anything other than stock. Change your lower bumpstops to whatever you want as long as your shock will allow it.
Torsion bar adjustment does NOTHING to affect cv axle angle, only the bumpstops change that.
DO NOT change out your upper bumpstops for anything other than stock. Change your lower bumpstops to whatever you want as long as your shock will allow it.
08-22-2007, 10:17 PM
#24
Registered User
08-23-2007, 07:23 AM
#26
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Frank
08-23-2007, 02:19 PM
#27
Registered User
I had poly's on with my bracket lify. Switched back with the long travel based on a recomendation.
It makes sense on paper and as far as I can tell in the real world. Just feeling and observing the bumps in your hand, it makes sense.
It makes sense on paper and as far as I can tell in the real world. Just feeling and observing the bumps in your hand, it makes sense.
08-29-2007, 03:20 PM
#28
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well the kit is here, no instructions, but I think you have it on your site eh frank? anyway I can find some on here somewhere. maybe this weekend or next I will be putting it on... i was wrong on the bilsteins, they are ome n98s oh well. umm i hope my tires dont rub, stupid pieces of stock crap. anyone have ideas for my sway bars front and rear, I kinda wanna keep em on for highway use, cause its really windy on the roads here, lotsa curves and whatnot, but they are not reaching in the rear so good, is there an extension i should know about? thanks
08-29-2007, 04:17 PM
#29
Registered User
well the kit is here, no instructions, but I think you have it on your site eh frank? anyway I can find some on here somewhere. maybe this weekend or next I will be putting it on... i was wrong on the bilsteins, they are ome n98s oh well. umm i hope my tires dont rub, stupid pieces of stock crap. anyone have ideas for my sway bars front and rear, I kinda wanna keep em on for highway use, cause its really windy on the roads here, lotsa curves and whatnot, but they are not reaching in the rear so good, is there an extension i should know about? thanks
Frank
08-29-2007, 05:23 PM
#30
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my 0.02 here. since i installed my spacers twice, i have some ideas to share.
1.) fill your balljoint with good grease before your put it back, you can't re-lube it till next time you take the spacers off because the zerks are blocked by the spacers. a $6 grease gun goes a long way.
2.) the reason i had to the second time was because i didn't cut enough metal off the UCA the first time, so there was some contact between them, i found out after i put everthing back on. so don't be shy on cutting.
3.) take the brake caliper off also take the front sway bar off. i had hellava time raising the UCA the first time, because when i just up the UCA, with the sway bar on, the LCA will come up with the UCA. i figured it out during the process but i couldn't find a deep socket to get the sway bar. simple 12mm deep socket will do the job, also, change out the bushings and washers, mine are all crack and rusted. without the sway bar, it's so easy to lift the UCA.
4.) get a 12" bungee cord, double wrap it around the torson bar, use the hooks to hold the brake caliper while you working on the balljoint. don't stretch the brake line.
5.) have a backup car ready just in case you need some parts (i didn't the first time). i had to remove the bj to get one stucked stud, ended up striped the castle nut. spending 1.5 hours just to fix one freaking nut. if i had a backup car, i'd go to the dealer then come back in 30 minutes.
6.) get some assorted cotter pins, change the old ones, don't re-use them.
first time took me 6 hours, second time 1.5 hours easily, including replacing both front shocks with new ones.
1.) fill your balljoint with good grease before your put it back, you can't re-lube it till next time you take the spacers off because the zerks are blocked by the spacers. a $6 grease gun goes a long way.
2.) the reason i had to the second time was because i didn't cut enough metal off the UCA the first time, so there was some contact between them, i found out after i put everthing back on. so don't be shy on cutting.
3.) take the brake caliper off also take the front sway bar off. i had hellava time raising the UCA the first time, because when i just up the UCA, with the sway bar on, the LCA will come up with the UCA. i figured it out during the process but i couldn't find a deep socket to get the sway bar. simple 12mm deep socket will do the job, also, change out the bushings and washers, mine are all crack and rusted. without the sway bar, it's so easy to lift the UCA.
4.) get a 12" bungee cord, double wrap it around the torson bar, use the hooks to hold the brake caliper while you working on the balljoint. don't stretch the brake line.
5.) have a backup car ready just in case you need some parts (i didn't the first time). i had to remove the bj to get one stucked stud, ended up striped the castle nut. spending 1.5 hours just to fix one freaking nut. if i had a backup car, i'd go to the dealer then come back in 30 minutes.
6.) get some assorted cotter pins, change the old ones, don't re-use them.
first time took me 6 hours, second time 1.5 hours easily, including replacing both front shocks with new ones.
08-29-2007, 06:15 PM
#31
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stupid castle nuts.
ok hey
I havent taken the ball joint apart before, and just wondering where the castle nut is and how many there are, I ahve a grease gun, isit the moly grease or lithium in the ball joint? probably lithium. hmmm ... oh frank heres a question. the kit came with 8 regular nuts and 8 nylock nuts... should I just double nut each bolt putting the nylock on last? also anyone got ideas on the longer sway bar links?
I havent taken the ball joint apart before, and just wondering where the castle nut is and how many there are, I ahve a grease gun, isit the moly grease or lithium in the ball joint? probably lithium. hmmm ... oh frank heres a question. the kit came with 8 regular nuts and 8 nylock nuts... should I just double nut each bolt putting the nylock on last? also anyone got ideas on the longer sway bar links?
08-29-2007, 06:19 PM
#32
Castle nut on the end of the ball joint stud, has slots in the sides for the cotter pin.
Yes, install the plain nut, torque it to spec then add the nylock nut to hold things in place:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml
I think I use a moly grease in my ball joints, probably doesn't matter too much, whatever you have used before.
An idea for sway bar end links:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#DisconnectsV2
Yes, install the plain nut, torque it to spec then add the nylock nut to hold things in place:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml
I think I use a moly grease in my ball joints, probably doesn't matter too much, whatever you have used before.
An idea for sway bar end links:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#DisconnectsV2
09-02-2007, 04:30 PM
#33
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anyone have pics of the adjustment cams for alignment? also where do I adjust toe in? i pm'd ya frank with these questions too
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