bugs1961

I spent about 7 hours today removing, resealing, and reinstalling my 3.0 power steering pump.

Rebuild kit part number is: 04446-20031

Pictures correspond to paragraph numbers.

1. As anyone who has tried to remove the pump pulley can testify, it is a pain to remove. I used the transmission and parking brake to keep the engine from turning and ended up using a thick shirt in between the pulley and belt to tighten the belt enough to prevent the pulley from slipping under the belt and it worked fine. Don't lose the key when you take the pulley off. I put my pulley key into a ziploc bag and placed it with the pulley so it wouldn't get lost. EDIT: I forgot to mention that I use a pickle fork placed right next to the shaft, between the pulley hub and the housing where the seal is located, to get the pulley off. I few taps with a hammer should do the trick.

2. I've only had this truck for a year but it looked like the pump had never been cleaned and rebuilt. It was covered with dirty slime and was seeping from the rear cover, front seal, and the bottom of the reservoir.

3. I used a screwdriver and brake parts cleaner to remove as much of the slime as I could because I didn't want any dirt to get into the inside of the pump. I don't have a bench or many tools in my apartment in Anchorage so I bought a small vice at Lowe's and mounted it on an unused room divider in the bed of my truck. This worked OK.

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bugs1961

4. Use the exploded view of the pump and follow the FSM exactly and disassemble the pump. Getting the large snap ring out was a bit of a challenge for me. If you can get a pointed, tapered punch, tap it under the beveled end of the snap ring to get it out of the groove. Then use a small screwdriver to lever the ring out of the groove. A new ring is included in the rebuild kit so you can see the bevel and this should make sense. When you tap on the shaft to pop out the rear housing, the wave washer will fall out so be ready to catch it. This picture shows how the wave washer and rear plate are positioned. When you remove any o-ring, keep it with the part it came off so you can compare size with the new one in the kit. The kit comes with some extra rings so it can be used with different pumps or years. Make sure you find and replace every o-ring in your pump to prevent leaks after you reinstall it.

5. Here is what the rear plate looks like after taking off the wave washer. Note the position of the mark (stamped dot) on the front of the rear plate so you can reassemble it in the same position.

6. Tap a little more on the shaft and the rear plate will come out, and behind it you can see the cam ring, rotor, and vane plates. Note that the diamond shaped mark on the cam ring is on the outside and in view. The rotor has a small mark (stamped dot) that faces away from the front plate and will be in view after reassembly of the shaft. The FSM talks about an oval shaped hole in the cam ring that the long pin goes into. It is in the 1 O'clock position in this picture.

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bugs1961

7. Tap some more on the shaft and it will come out. Be very careful that the cam ring and vane plates don't fall out and get damaged--they are not attached and will come right off the rotor. Slide the cam ring off the rotor and remove the 10 vane plates. The vane plates have a rounded side and a squared side. It won't matter where they go back into the rotor but do make sure that the rounded side of the vane plates are facing outward and the squared side on the inside. The front plate has two o-rings, one on the outside and one on the inside. When you remove the small snap ring retaining the rotor and front plate to the shaft, you can see and remove the smaller, inner o-ring. There are two types of large o-rings and the rebuild kit has instructions on where they go. Don't mix them up. When you reinstall the rotor make sure the mark is visible.

8. I used a pliers to lever out the old seal and a large socket to tap a new one (came in the kit) back into place. Lightly coat the inside of the seal housing and the outside of the seal with multipurpose grease to help the seal go in easier, and coat the inside of the sealing surface to prevent damage at initial start up. Replace all the o-rings, clean the parts with new ATF and a lint-free cloth, and reassemble. Make sure the parts and the new o-rings are coated with clean ATF during assembly. The long pin goes into the main housing and I didn't actually remove it at all. If you do, make sure you replace it in the correct place. See picture 6 and it's in the 1 o'clock position. The short pin goes into the front plate in the 7 o'clock position of picture 6; and doesn't go all the way through the front plate. Install each part as shown in the FSM, making sure it is seated all the way in. If the large retaining ring at the rear of the pump doesn't fit into it's groove, the shaft isn't all the way into the pump. Push on the rear plate with your fingers or lightly tap with a plastic hammer to fully seat the shaft.

9. Reinstall the pump with the two bolts finger tight. Attach the two fluid hoses and two air hoses. I cut about a half inch off the return hose and about a quarter inch off the air hoses to get a fresh section of the hose over the nipples to help seal better. Be careful when cutting the air hoses as there isn't much slop; so check first if you can cut any off and if so, how much. The return hose is plenty long. The kit will come with new copper gaskets for the pressure hose union. Coat the shaft, key, and inside of the pulley with oil and slide the pulley back into place. Coat the threads and face of the nut with oil and reinstall it. Install and tighten the belt. Torque the pulley nut. I didn't have any trouble torquing the pulley nut with just the transmission holding the crank from turning.

This isn't too hard and only takes normal tools. I didn't need a snap ring pliers to remove either ring. A hook shaped pick makes getting the old o-rings out easy but a small screwdriver can be used. I did this job to my Mother-in-Law's '89 truck years ago and it still is completely dry, so I expect this one will be the same. The rebuild kit can be ordered from the various online Toyota dealers for under $30. Good luck and have fun,

Bugs

bugs1961

If anyone has any other thoughts or techniques please jump right in. I'll bet that most of the trucks out there could use this done to help keep the engine bay clean.

UKMyers

Great write up! The V6 pumps are notorious for leaking. I've been through 2 of them with my hydro assist so far.

jasonbrink

Great write up, I think between your post and the FSM ANYONE can fix their own pump with confidence now.

I bought a rebuilt one from a semi-local dismantler with a no questions lifetime warranty 10 years ago for my truck. www.donsauto.com It just sprang a leak, so I dug out the paperwork and called them. Had a newly rebuilt one (which looked like new) in 2 days. I paid $50 for the pump back then, and $10 for the lifetime warranty. That was the best $10 I ever spent! I got the replacement, and it STILL is covered by the same lifetime warranty! Wooo-hooo...I'll have a non-leaky pump forever now! If you need a new pump, and don't want to rebuild yours, CALL THEM> They ship everywhere, and you can get that REAL lifetime guarantee- It really is unbeatable.

I just noticed my 4runner that I'm replacing the timing belt etc on, is now leaking from the pump. I'm ordering the repair kit tomorrow & will now have the confidence to do it all myself.

Thanks again Bugs!
Jason

RMA

The one on my 94 is leaking and Im going to have to try this , thanks !!

T4L

Great write-up...this is something I need to do. I'll add it on to my ever growing list.

bugs1961

Thanks all, and I drove the truck around quite a bit today and the pump is dry and silent. This is something anyone with basic tools and ability can do so don't fear. Take care and good luck,

Bugs

89V6

thanks for the write-up BUGS1961. used it to rebuild mine over the weekend. i couldn't stop the pulley from slipping using the "old shirt" method so i removed the front reservoir bolt and put a set of vise grip pliers on the back side of the pulley. the pliers were long enough to rest on the fender wall so I didn't have to hold them as I loosened the pulley nut. everything else went as you described. thanks again.

bugs1961

Update. After nearly 5 months the pump is working perfectly and is completely dry. Don't hesitate to do this. The stock pump seems to last forever but the rubber o-rings will eventually fail.

harrywat

Thanks for the great write up Bugs, its something I need to do for mine and your write up removes my hesitation.
I have a question about the air valve, if that's what it is. One of my prongs broke off and I glued it back with Shoo Goo, a rubber stint and fishing tackle. I need a new one but the dealer said it was part of the pump, is that so?

Also, do you know what it's function is?

How do you think an impact wrench will work on the pully nut?

BTW, thanks for your tip about injectors on another thread, my six are on the way to witchhunter.com as we speak.

Harry

eugenedbrooksiii

The air valve bumps the idle speed up when there is a large load on the power steering pump. The prongs are easy to break off when working around the pump, you can easily do it by bumping into the hoses. I broke mine once and had no problem getting the replacement part from the dealer. Try another dealer, but if your glue job fails and you can't get the part, some threads report replacing the valve with a pipe plug and plugging the air lines has not led to engine stalls when turning hard at idle. <<<This part is available from www.autohausaz.com, part number W0133-1610955, but at the price of about $100 you may prefer the pipe plug. >>>

I rebuilt my PS pump when it started leaking some time ago, in preference to buying a rebuilt pump, because of the possibility of getting a rebuilt pump that had been run dry in its previous life (I have seen this on rebuilt pumps I have bought a few times). When I did mine, I carefully indexed all the vanes so that they went back into the same slots with the same orientation, taking advantage of that 150K mile break-in. It is very doable with normal tools, taking care.

bugs1961

Sorry it took awhile to get back to you. The part number for the air valve is 17630-16040 and Toyota of Dallas has them for $83.63. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214074

Here is a site that allows you to find the Toyota part numbers for anything on the truck: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ Put in your VIN and it will show the exact part for your truck (or any Toyota for that matter).

Take care,
Bugs

harrywat

Thanks Eugene and Bugs
I recorded the P/N for the air valve for in-case later. After Eugene explained it's function, I'll stick with the one I repaired, actually, its a good repair that I think will last for a long time. Shoe Goo is good stuff for repairs all around a vehicle.

I ordered a pump kit today and did the tear down this afternoon, THANKS BUGS, without your write up I would have kept it as was, you made it simple. Its going to be good not to see that spot wherever I park.

Harry

89V6

i replaced my air valve at the cost of $65 back in 1994. that valve was broken (by a dealer mechanic i suspect) during the replacement of the recalled head gasket in 1998. i used super glue and jb weld to make the first repair. it has broken and been repaired two more times using the same glues. the valve still continues to work fine.

ogclew

thanks for such a good write up bugs1961, I was like "this close" to paying some mechanic to do it for me. I bought the toyota books and have been reding the ps dismantle pages, with your write up. I should be ok!

but i been looking..they dont sell the PS rebuild anymore?

bugs1961

The kit part number is: 04446-20031 (supersedes 04446-20030) and can be obtained at the local dealer for about $30 or so or you can order it here: https://www.toyotaoemparts.com/ or several other online Toyota dealers.

Also, download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) here: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html and you'll have the detailed information you need.

Go for it--it's not hard.

ogclew

thank you..

what do you think about seafoam for the 3vze? good idea? I jus gave my truck a tune-up oil plugs, filter, etc..i dont want my plugs to get dirty or anything?

bugs1961

I have never used Seafoam, myself, but a lot of guys here have and generally report good results.