87 Engine in 88 Runner (22RE)
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87 Engine in 88 Runner (22RE)
I am installing a known good condition and running 1987 22RE engine into a 1988 4runner. The doner engine ran well, got new timing chain guides and a cam (RV Grind) as part of this install. All else is stock.
The 88 4Runner has the Air Suction (AS) system whereas the 87 did not. I did not install the AS system components into the 87 engine before installing it into the 88 truck.
The AS system consists of an AS reed valve, a resonator (both situated on the intake side of the engine), and a VSV, located on the valve cover.
How bad did I screw up? The engine runs, but idles high and accelerates poorly. It is not timed completely accurately - rather by ear for now. Should not create this big of an issue. The cam is timed properly - for sure. Valve clearance was set (cold) to the new spec so is in the ballpark.
I am fairly sure I'll have to (re)remove the engine to install the AS tubing that routes exhaust vacuum around the back of the engine to the AS Reed valve (Damnit).
The 88 4Runner has the Air Suction (AS) system whereas the 87 did not. I did not install the AS system components into the 87 engine before installing it into the 88 truck.
The AS system consists of an AS reed valve, a resonator (both situated on the intake side of the engine), and a VSV, located on the valve cover.
How bad did I screw up? The engine runs, but idles high and accelerates poorly. It is not timed completely accurately - rather by ear for now. Should not create this big of an issue. The cam is timed properly - for sure. Valve clearance was set (cold) to the new spec so is in the ballpark.
I am fairly sure I'll have to (re)remove the engine to install the AS tubing that routes exhaust vacuum around the back of the engine to the AS Reed valve (Damnit).
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No need to remove the engine (nor the head). The AS tubing is secured by a bolt on the rear of the head. It's a little tight, but doable. A ratchet end wrench helps.
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So for sure go ahead and install all of the AS junk? Wondering if anyone has done this.
For sure gotta remove all the intake stuff to attach the AS Reed valve. Doable, but a pain?
For sure gotta remove all the intake stuff to attach the AS Reed valve. Doable, but a pain?
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I think you're making it harder than it is...
The reed valve can be installed without removing the intake manifold.
It's good to have this stuff installed when comes to smog check time.
The reed valve can be installed without removing the intake manifold.
It's good to have this stuff installed when comes to smog check time.
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The reed valve mounts to 2 mounting tabs cast into the lower side of the intake manifold on the 1988 engine. The intake manifold on the 1987 engine(s) (I have a couple)does not have these mounting tabs. So to install it _right_ I need to replace the intake. Which is work.
Anyone know a way to fake out the ECU? Can I use my ECU from the 87 truck (I have it).
I'm looking for an admitedly lazy way around this. Removing the intake(s) means draining coolant, removing a wheel, etc, etc.
Anyone know a way to fake out the ECU? Can I use my ECU from the 87 truck (I have it).
I'm looking for an admitedly lazy way around this. Removing the intake(s) means draining coolant, removing a wheel, etc, etc.
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Yep, already solved that. Using the (cleaned) 88 injectors in the 87 engine. Could that be my problem? I wouldn't think so since these injectors are original to the truck and ECU.
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OK, so I removed the 87 intake and re-installed the 88 stuff, along with the Air Suction system with reed valve, resonator, etc. Now the thing idles nicely and runs mostly OK. One strange thing...
After the engine warms up it throws a check engine light. If it does this while I'm driving it, I can actually feel a slight loss in power.
If I turn it off and turn it back on, the check engine light is cleared. Will come back on a few moments after re-starting.
Any ideas from anyone?
Again, stock engine except for installation of RV cam. No vacuum leaks that I can find, engine starts right up and idles nicely.
After the engine warms up it throws a check engine light. If it does this while I'm driving it, I can actually feel a slight loss in power.
If I turn it off and turn it back on, the check engine light is cleared. Will come back on a few moments after re-starting.
Any ideas from anyone?
Again, stock engine except for installation of RV cam. No vacuum leaks that I can find, engine starts right up and idles nicely.
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Error code was 52, which indicates knock sensor. Who'da thunk. Replaced the 87 knock sensor with the one from the 88 and viola, no more check engine light and the thing runs nicely.
This is in my back-up (beater) 4runner, so now onto the pretty one. I have a complete spare engine and opportunity knocks (without a sensor).
Wondering about what to do for the most power gains - but will post in a new thread....
This is in my back-up (beater) 4runner, so now onto the pretty one. I have a complete spare engine and opportunity knocks (without a sensor).
Wondering about what to do for the most power gains - but will post in a new thread....
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