Junkers88

pitfallguy72
About the easiest way to test this kind of thing is to take a length of wire, attach one end to the spade connector on the starter and touch the other end to the + side of the battery. Make sure the vehicle is in neutral/park and if you want it to start you'll have to push the clutch cancel switch if your vehicle has one, also need to be sure the key is in the run position. Oh and set the parking brake.

If the rig starts with the above "diagnostic technique" then you have an issue in the wiring somewhere. Could be anything from the ignition switch in the column on out. I know this because before I did that little test I replaced the starter, cleaned all the contacts/connections from the battery on out, checked the grounds and cleaned them, replaced the alternator (unrelated issue but I was hopeful) etc. I even replaced the ignition switch and it worked great for about a week. Finally got tired of jacking with it and installed the hot shot kit. If I'd have done that first I'd have saved a poop pile of money time and headache.

Run the jumper wire, if it starts get a hot shot kit and be done with it.

pitfallguy72

Evileye, it was a brand new starter from napa with a lifetime warranty.

Utah, i have a feeling it may be the starter relay switch so i ordered one off ebay. If that replacement doesnt work then the diagnostic technique will certainly be my next step. I appreciate your help and advice on this and will keep the progress updated

Stinson.mr

I suspect the battery also. Related is the battery cable connection. If there are not enough starting amps the starter will just clik like you mentioned.

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

I just did this a little while back, so I feel your pain. Mine turned out to be a worn ring on the plunger, I hope yours is simple too!

Newf wit a Toy

I think it is the relay, as I also had this problem just last winter with my 86' pick-up. I took the relay apart to see if I could build one myself and water came out. It was freezing up in there and thats when it would click. Is yours half plastic, half metal? If so take it apart and try blowing it out with compressed air. Other than that check all wires for good connection and hopefully that does it. Good luck.

cheers,

Newf wit an 86' Toy

pitfallguy72

okay all, so I have just replaced the relay switch from another I bought off ebay. I have complete faith in this relay switch. However, the problem is still occurring and there is no change in the situation. I have noticed that if I do a quick and constant assession of quick turns/clicks with the ignition key in the ignition switch, it eventually turns over after 5 or so clicks. Could it be the ignition switch? this is the last place I have to check. New battery, starter, another relay, but haven't assessed the ignition yet...

gsharp

I am having the exact same issues. I ordered a hot shot relay this weekend so I will let you know how it goes.

evileyejones

maybe check battery terminals, and the wire from the battery to the starter? try using a jumper cable from battery to starter to boost it while you try starting.

jimnto

I have had two intermittent starter problems - the one where I turn the key and only hear the relays trip - I can reach under the frint tire and slip a wire in behind the solenoid into the back of the spade connector and touch the main power connection on the starter. I could start the truck without the clutch pedal in - weird eh?
My second problem (started this summer) was good cranking but no spark (an no fuel smell). MAN I AM FED UP WITH IT ALL.

I may have solved it this morning by cleaning the ignition contacts (pulled it off the back of the ignition switch).

If so - I want to go offroading near Oshawa (Ontario) next weekendd. Anyone else in???

jimnto

Howdy - I am having a similar kind of perplexing problem. Hope you can read my whole story.
I bought this truck from a guy in Texas three years ago and he had put in his fair shaore of starters. I had intermittent starter problems and I thought it was a wiring harness from a trailer so i cut it out. Eventually it came back. Got stranded and a mechanic put in a new starter. eventually the problem came back. Unrelated but I put a new alternator in. i think much of the power and grounds to under the hood have been looked at.
Interestingly - the main problem (I turn key and hear the relays trip but no cranking) i could still start the truck by putting a 5" wire into the back of the spade connector on the solenoid (get to it behind the front passenger tire) and touching the other end to the main connector on the starter. In effect I was starting the truck while at the front wheel (and not holding in the clutch!! weird eh?)/
Recently i started getting a new problem Great cranking but no spark - no fuel smell and no starting. I couldn't bump start it or anything.

Today I took apart the ignition switch and cleaned those copper disks (careful if you try it - there are ball bearing that can jump out and small springs). and it was a small challenge to get it back together but so far (10 times today) it has started consistently.

I AM SICK OF THE PROBLEM> IF YOU WANT TO STAY IN TOUCH AND SEE IF WE ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS - I am game. I love my truck but whew man it is frustrating.

I am in Toronto and thinking of going offroading near Oshawa if i have solved my problem Where are you.

Cheers

Jim Nielsen

gsharp

I installed a hot shot relay kit today and my truck will start on the first turn of the key every time now. I started it 10+ times today and not a single problem. Pretty good fix for $28

jclar2003

Ok, so I have an 85 runner and it has a very similar issue if not the very same one.
I had to rebuild the top end and also put a new clutch on it when I bought it.. ever since then it's had this problem. I try to start it and it just clicks once while turning the key.. if I try to start it really quickly in succession it will sometimes help.
I noticed the clutch cancel button does nothing and a clicking coming from under the dashboard on the passenger side. I first changed the starter thinking it was that for sure... it worked for maybe a month and then the same thing.... I changed the battery because it was old and seemed to be a problem.. it fixed it for about 3 months and then the issue came back.... since I had been thinking about it a lot during the day I fell asleep and dreamed about the problem and realized I never hooked up the negative ground cable... I went out and sure enough it was not connected... weird, but I thought that was it for sure it fixed it for a few days and then the problem came back. If i can get rolling at all and "bump" the engine just the slightest amount while having this problem it will make it start. So I think it's a problem with the voltage getting from the battery. If I get a jumpstart on my truck it will fix it. If I put the charger on my battery overnight it will work for a few more months again.. I know my battery is perfect, but I think if it's not at a perfect charge then it will not start. I have one of those jumper packs and I thought that would get me by, but it doesn't fix the problem because it doesn't have enough amps or something... so on an unrelated problem I've determined that the mass air flow sensor is bad and that it will cause the engine to crank and not fire, I'm not positive, but when I was messing with the MAF it would make the same relay clicks that I get when it just wont start. I"m replacing the battery terminal for the positive and also getting a better ground for it while replacing the MAF... I'll let you know if that fixes this weird problem, but has anyone that's had this problem that bought the painless wiring kit had any recurrences?
Thanks for reading....

evileyejones

In my humble opinion, I think you are correct in thinking that it is electrical.

I would check the power at the ignition switch, to make sure those conections aren't worn.

Then the check the relay (or if you have a relay), and if not; maybe look into adding in a relay ($30ish).

from what I have read, on some years, all the power for the starter comes from the ignition switch. other years, the ignition switch activates a relay, which then opens a circuit between the battery and the starter. I think it was on the 4crawler website that has all that and a bunch of step-by-steps on tracking down each problem.

P.s. I would also check both ends of the power conector on the starter, make sure it's not worn out at the starter, or elsewhere.

jclar2003

So, I think I resolved my issue with the Clicks but won't start.
I replaced the fusible link wire from the battery to the fuse panel with a solid 10ga wire.
I did that three months ago and haven't had an issue since.
I think it's the fusible link guys...

Ahbustae86

Is the fuseable link designed to fail as a protection device? Maybe you should put a fuse on that 10awg wire if you haven't already?

jclar2003

I'm wanting to put one in, but I am afraid I have no idea exactly how big of a fuse to put in, since it's going to be my fuse for everything electrical, I think the biggest one i've seen is a 40A.
Does anyone know what the typical draw should be?
Also it's just good to know that the wire SEEMS to be the problem, however I remember this issue being worse in the summer.

westcoastwheeler

I have a 88 4runner it is doing the same thing.... I tried the lead wire and always keep it in the truck just in case, it starts every time with that lead wire, no hesitation at all. I was gonna change my ignition but i saw on here earlier, a (hot shot kit) what exactly is that? I was thinking about putting a pussh button for the starter, turn the ignition on and push the button.

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

The HotShot does the same thing your lead wire does, without you having to get out of the truck. I made my own, it's easier and cheaper than buying the Painless one. I put a Ford relay on the fender, ran wire to one side from the battery and from the other side to the starter crank wire, and took my ignition wire off the crank wire and tied it down to the signal post on the relay. Now when I turn the key, the weak voltage through the ignition just needs to energize the Ford relay instead of trying to activate the solenoid itself.

I used spade connectors into the harness on the connections to the relay, so if I ever need to bypass the relay and go back to factory I'll just unplug the ignition wire from the relay and plug it into the crank wire.

ETA: just noticed you have an '88. You may already have a factory starter relay. My '86 doesn't, but I know they started putting them in at some point. If you install your own HotShot, make sure you bypass that factory relay.

RAD4Runner

Hi guys,

The clicking under the dashboard is from the circuit opening relay behind the right front speaker (behind glove comp) and next to Blower Fan.





When ignition switch is in momentary "Start" position, it energizes first coil of the circuit opening relay, regardless of the state of the clutch safety switch or the safety cancel switch. (Once engine starts and there's already airflow MAF circuit energizes the second coil of the C.O. Relay. That's the reason jclar2003 said "messing with MAF made that relay click").

The Hotshot is definitely a good work-around. Also IF your Runner really does not have a starter relay, installing a relay like Utah4Runner86 did, is the electrically -sound thing to do. This time your ignition switch will only handle current to actuate the relay- Lower than that needed to actuate the starter solenoid.

However, a cleaner fix would be to troubleshoot and ascertain if the starter relay or the starter solenoid is really bad and fix that. The 1986 Runner and possibly other years has the starter relay in the engine compartment.


You probably will not hear that click from the driver seat.

We already know from previous posts on "Click Only" (from under dashboard) that the ignition switch is good because it sends power to the circ opening relay when in "start" position.

I suspect the starter relay on mine. It is located in engine compartment near wiper motor and charcoal canister:


I'm monitoring and I have a "lead" wire to directly connect starter solenoid to battery positive via the spade connector (bypassing starter relay similar to what the HotShot does).
An old relay could have pitted/corroded contacts (like that on old rotor & points) that may not always make good connection. I suggest:
1) You have the "lead wire handy
2) When the "Clicking Only" problem happens, ask someone to put the ignition key in "Start" while you feel & listen for the starter relay click. If relay clicks but starter solenoid does not "Thunk!",