3vze complete exhaust
09-29-2009, 12:18 PM
#61
Registered User
Thread Starter
The clamp was made. Andrew, the guy that welded up my system, fabbed it together when I took it in to get it all assembled. so its 100% crafted by him. heh
10-01-2009, 08:05 AM
#63
Registered User
Thread Starter
haha yeah, dude. I spent a fortune but I LOVE every minute of my truck now. 3k+ rpms are exciting... I can hear the motor roar now.
I did a MPG check... didn't put my full effort into it though. im still getting used to the sound and im still not over it yet. I did 253 miles on a tank of nothing but 3.5k+ revs. I was doing that STOCK, but only when I babied it. babying as in 2-2.5k revs. This mod by FAR has a huge change in gas mileage and power differences. just for fun, and not like it matters, but I can hit 100 miles per hour now without going down hill! its so much fun seeinjg the needle move in a fast pace. the truck IS faster, but is STILL slow. So yes, this truck definitely increases MPG ( i'll get a true calculation next tank ) horsepower, throttle response, and sound ( wow ) This is by far the healthiest thing you can do to a 3vze, i'd say. my truck is really opened up now.
EDIT: also! if anyone know any good ISR write ups, i've found a few but feel free to PM them to me, leave them here or on my visitor profile section. Thanks! ( thats the next mod then i'll be done "opening" up my truck)
I did a MPG check... didn't put my full effort into it though. im still getting used to the sound and im still not over it yet. I did 253 miles on a tank of nothing but 3.5k+ revs. I was doing that STOCK, but only when I babied it. babying as in 2-2.5k revs. This mod by FAR has a huge change in gas mileage and power differences. just for fun, and not like it matters, but I can hit 100 miles per hour now without going down hill! its so much fun seeinjg the needle move in a fast pace. the truck IS faster, but is STILL slow. So yes, this truck definitely increases MPG ( i'll get a true calculation next tank ) horsepower, throttle response, and sound ( wow ) This is by far the healthiest thing you can do to a 3vze, i'd say. my truck is really opened up now.
EDIT: also! if anyone know any good ISR write ups, i've found a few but feel free to PM them to me, leave them here or on my visitor profile section. Thanks! ( thats the next mod then i'll be done "opening" up my truck)
Last edited by MaK92-4RnR; 10-01-2009 at 08:11 AM.
10-01-2009, 11:30 AM
#64
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
No real writeup needed mang 
Just get a pipe thats the general size and shape you want (I got the local muffler shop to bend me a peice of 3" pipe with a 44 degree bend in the middle. I cant remember how long the pipe is though.
Drilled two holes for two brass fittings
Got some 3-3" rubber couplers
gave it a coat of paint
Just get a pipe thats the general size and shape you want (I got the local muffler shop to bend me a peice of 3" pipe with a 44 degree bend in the middle. I cant remember how long the pipe is though.
Drilled two holes for two brass fittings
Got some 3-3" rubber couplers
gave it a coat of paint
10-01-2009, 02:54 PM
#66
Registered User
There just isn't as much free power available to grab on the intake side as the exhaust, you may see a little better flow but not too much. Still, it makes sense to do what you can to open it up.
I seriously have header envy now, lol. I do have a magnaflow and that nice Borla sound but wish I had the headers to go with!
I was taking another look at your pics, and it looks like you might have a bit of an issue with your brake lines. They look like they might be close enough to the pipes to get fairly hot, possibly hot enough to boil the fluid and put vapor in your lines. The line to the clutch slave cylinder is worth a look, too, along with the fuel line & return line. I think you might consider some heat shielding - sleeves or tape might be a good idea. Summit carries a ton of heat shielding stuff:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...at-Protection/
I seriously have header envy now, lol. I do have a magnaflow and that nice Borla sound but wish I had the headers to go with!
I was taking another look at your pics, and it looks like you might have a bit of an issue with your brake lines. They look like they might be close enough to the pipes to get fairly hot, possibly hot enough to boil the fluid and put vapor in your lines. The line to the clutch slave cylinder is worth a look, too, along with the fuel line & return line. I think you might consider some heat shielding - sleeves or tape might be a good idea. Summit carries a ton of heat shielding stuff:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...at-Protection/
10-01-2009, 06:15 PM
#67
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
Defantly move those lines. And be carefull about the fuel lines on the other side. They can burn through quickly!
I didn't notice any peformance gains from my ISR mod, but it really cleaned up the engine bay! Made checking my oil much easier
I didn't notice any peformance gains from my ISR mod, but it really cleaned up the engine bay! Made checking my oil much easier
10-02-2009, 11:02 AM
#68
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've bent the brake lines out of the way, Fuel line is already heat wrapped. I'm gonna buy some wrap for the starter though... that is extremely close to the passenger side header... heh
10-02-2009, 01:05 PM
#71
Registered User
For the starter, there are wraps made specifically for that - with velcro attachments;
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350108/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010402/
Or you could get a bigger piece and cut it:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010462/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-47842/
Or you could use tape:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350104/
I think it all probably would work fine, just pick what fits and is easiest and cheapest. I would not wrap the headers - they would get too hot - just what's near them.
What code did you get?
Prob code 69: excessive driving with pedal floored and big silly grin on face.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350108/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010402/
Or you could get a bigger piece and cut it:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010462/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-47842/
Or you could use tape:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350104/
I think it all probably would work fine, just pick what fits and is easiest and cheapest. I would not wrap the headers - they would get too hot - just what's near them.
What code did you get?
Prob code 69: excessive driving with pedal floored and big silly grin on face.
10-02-2009, 01:48 PM
#72
Registered User
Thread Starter
alrighty, thanks. I was jst going to wrap the brake lines, put more over the fuel line, and some over the starter. and call it good.
I was doing 25 in a 35 when the engine light popped on. How might I check it, do ya know?
I was doing 25 in a 35 when the engine light popped on.
How might I check it, do ya know?
10-02-2009, 05:24 PM
#73
Registered User
For checking codes, refer to the fsm:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf
This post also has some instructions:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...06#post2870806
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf
This post also has some instructions:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...06#post2870806
10-02-2009, 05:40 PM
#74
Registered User
Thread Starter
Alrighty, thanks for the info. I just bent my brake lines and zip tied them ( not like it'll matter, they'll just melt ) but by the time they melt they should be pretty stuck. they are no longer resting against the header... still gonna buy some wrap for it though... esepcially the starter... feel bad for the little guy under there lol
lol
10-03-2009, 06:52 PM
#75
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
your idle seems pretty high too mine usually sits at about 1k.
Last edited by Grunnen; 10-03-2009 at 06:55 PM.
10-04-2009, 02:14 PM
#78
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i had a low idle and my neighbor who is a mechanic came over and set my timing forward 10 degrees. dont know how its done but it made my truck run a hell of a lot better.
10-04-2009, 02:31 PM
#79
Registered User
Have you tried adjusting the idle speed? It's the large, front-facing flathead screw near the top of the throttle body. Just screw it in when motor is hot to reduce idle speed. Spec is 800 rpm but 800-900 is okay - I set mine where it idles smoothest. If the screw bottoms out and it's still running, you have a vacuum leak, or perhaps someone adjusted the throttle stop position (which is factory-set and should never be touched), or something is preventing the throttle from closing fully, or your cold idle bypass valve is stuck open.
10-04-2009, 02:39 PM
#80
Registered User
Thread Starter
Heh, go for it. if you're willing to make the investment. could always go with a cat back. but I can guarantee the gains are much better with headers.
Timing belt is UNKNOWN on my truck. there is no sticker, or anything suggesting that its even been changed... 
That probably could be it.
Vacuum leak... hmm I detached the vacuum hoses on the left side of the engine to fit the header in. but I INSURED I put them all back on. I even marked them off to remember where they go. Im 100% confident that that couldn't be it...
This is all a mystery to me right now... its been pretty chilly in NOR CAL lately... so morning starts are always high. but i'll pay more attention to it at a stop light more often. it seems fine. its running exactly how it was before I did the headers, if not better. I'll run a diagnostic on it... never done it before but eh, gotta start somewhere. I'll letcha all know what it is.
That probably could be it.Have you tried adjusting the idle speed? It's the large, front-facing flathead screw near the top of the throttle body. Just screw it in when motor is hot to reduce idle speed. Spec is 800 rpm but 800-900 is okay - I set mine where it idles smoothest. If the screw bottoms out and it's still running, you have a vacuum leak, or perhaps someone adjusted the throttle stop position (which is factory-set and should never be touched), or something is preventing the throttle from closing fully, or your cold idle bypass valve is stuck open.
This is all a mystery to me right now... its been pretty chilly in NOR CAL lately... so morning starts are always high. but i'll pay more attention to it at a stop light more often. it seems fine. its running exactly how it was before I did the headers, if not better. I'll run a diagnostic on it... never done it before but eh, gotta start somewhere. I'll letcha all know what it is.
