3vze complete exhaust - Page 4

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 01:40 PM

my idle has been relatively high lately... would could be the cause of that? its idling around 1.2k

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Ric's 91 · 10-04-2009, 02:01 PM

I need a new exhaust

Grunnen · 10-04-2009, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR

my idle has been relatively high lately... would could be the cause of that? its idling around 1.2k

have you done your timing belt recently?

i had a low idle and my neighbor who is a mechanic came over and set my timing forward 10 degrees. dont know how its done but it made my truck run a hell of a lot better.

sb5walker · 10-04-2009, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR

my idle has been relatively high lately... would could be the cause of that? its idling around 1.2k

Have you tried adjusting the idle speed? It's the large, front-facing flathead screw near the top of the throttle body. Just screw it in when motor is hot to reduce idle speed. Spec is 800 rpm but 800-900 is okay - I set mine where it idles smoothest. If the screw bottoms out and it's still running, you have a vacuum leak, or perhaps someone adjusted the throttle stop position (which is factory-set and should never be touched), or something is preventing the throttle from closing fully, or your cold idle bypass valve is stuck open.

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ric's 91

I need a new exhaust

Heh, go for it. if you're willing to make the investment. could always go with a cat back. but I can guarantee the gains are much better with headers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grunnen

have you done your timing belt recently?

i had a low idle and my neighbor who is a mechanic came over and set my timing forward 10 degrees. dont know how its done but it made my truck run a hell of a lot better.

Timing belt is UNKNOWN on my truck. there is no sticker, or anything suggesting that its even been changed...

That probably could be it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sb5walker

Have you tried adjusting the idle speed? It's the large, front-facing flathead screw near the top of the throttle body. Just screw it in when motor is hot to reduce idle speed. Spec is 800 rpm but 800-900 is okay - I set mine where it idles smoothest. If the screw bottoms out and it's still running, you have a vacuum leak, or perhaps someone adjusted the throttle stop position (which is factory-set and should never be touched), or something is preventing the throttle from closing fully, or your cold idle bypass valve is stuck open.

Vacuum leak... hmm I detached the vacuum hoses on the left side of the engine to fit the header in. but I INSURED I put them all back on. I even marked them off to remember where they go. Im 100% confident that that couldn't be it...

This is all a mystery to me right now... its been pretty chilly in NOR CAL lately... so morning starts are always high. but i'll pay more attention to it at a stop light more often. it seems fine. its running exactly how it was before I did the headers, if not better. I'll run a diagnostic on it... never done it before but eh, gotta start somewhere. I'll letcha all know what it is.

sb5walker · 10-04-2009, 04:13 PM

Timing belt sets cam timing, not ignition timing. The 10 degrees mentioned is the base ignition timing spec set by rotating distrib (with jumper set in check connector). (If you think there could be over 70 miles on the timing belt, it needs to be replaced.)

Really, just try adjusting the idle speed screw - any coin will work.

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 04:37 PM

Adjusted the Idle screw... its back to normal /shrug. Like I said before, its running perfect. not too sure what the engine light is on for though. i'll figure it out. I hooked a ground wire back up to where it belonged. Forgot to wire it back up after the installation. but other than that. everything seems fine.

guess we'll find out what the engine code is.

EDIT: Yeah. I need to get the timing belt/water pump and driving belts done. also want to do the CV joints and radiator. lots of mechanical things need to be done. Im plannong on doing the timing belt, water pump, radiator and driving belts all in one. Knock it all out while im working in that general area.

toyotanick · 10-04-2009, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MKtaco_98

0-60 in 10 or 11 seconds idk what is was before *based on video

he doesnt seam to have floored it and shifted high enough to really see the 0-60 time

oh and i love the sound of it!

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyotanick

he doesnt seam to have floored it and shifted high enough to really see the 0-60 time

oh and i love the sound of it!

would you like a 0-60 video? I can make one for whoever would like to see if theres a difference, if I have enough interest in one? /shrug

sb5walker · 10-04-2009, 07:16 PM

Would be great to see what it can really do. Some things you can do to make performance as good as possible:

If your timing belt is old and tired, probably best to replace it beforehand - very high revs are tough on old belts. Let the new belt break in 500 to a thousand miles or so before your run.

If you can do your ISR before the run, that might help a bit, but won't make a huge difference.

Calibrate your speedometer by maintaining exactly 60 miles per hour on a measured mile - should be 1 minute, if not, calculate correction to find what your speedo reads at 60 miles per hour true speed.

Check your tachometer with a good shop tach/automotive multimeter so you don't overrev the motor.

Clean throttle body if needed. Verify that when pedal is floored, butterfly valve is all the way open.

Make sure cooling system is in good shape.

Fresh oil and filter to protect motor - a full synthetic 5W30 from Red Line or Amsoil would give a little more hp, full synthetic 10W30 would protect the motor a bit better, would still give a bit more hp than a mineral oil of the same weight. Use a Toyota 90915-YZZD3 filter for better flow.

New Denso plugs, cap, rotor (& wires if needed). New air filter and also new Toyota fuel filter if not changed in last 100k miles.

Add a bottle of Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner or CRC "Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula" to your tank and run it through before doing the run to clean your injectors. Those two have polyether amine in them which is about the only effective injector cleaning chem. Then fill tank (only half way - don't want to add weight) with 91-93 octane. Try to find a gas with 0% ethanol (E0, or non oxygenated) as the alcohol will kill your performance. Try Sunoco, maybe Shell.

Set base ignition timing to 14 deg btdc with jumper set. Gives noticeably snappier throttle response - some veezy owners run this timing even using 87 octane, but a higher octane will reduce likelihood of detonation which would cause computer to pull timing back down. After the run, 12 deg is a bit more conservative and runs fine with 87 octane, and is probably a better all-around base time for this motor than the 10 deg spec. But when getting an emissions test, set it back down to 10.

Remove all excess weight from vehicle - for at least one run, go without passenger.

Air up tires to 38 front, 36 rear

Drive it gently before the run - you want it operating temp but not too hot.

Choose a cool or cold day (should be easy this time of year).

Make the run at or near sea level.

Except for first shift, run rpms up to 5100-5200 before shifting (or up to red line if you really want to wring it out). First shift can come @ 4800 - 5000.

Have fun and be safe!

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sb5walker

Would be great to see what it can really do. Some things you can do to make performance as good as possible:

If your timing belt is old and tired, probably best to replace it beforehand - very high revs are tough on old belts. Let the new belt break in 500 to a thousand miles or so before your run.

If you can do your ISR before the run, that might help a bit, but won't make a huge difference.

Calibrate your speedometer by maintaining exactly 60 miles per hour on a measured mile - should be 1 minute, if not, calculate correction to find what your speedo reads at 60 miles per hour true speed.

Check your tachometer with a good shop tach/automotive multimeter so you don't overrev the motor.

Clean throttle body if needed. Verify that when pedal is floored, butterfly valve is all the way open.

Make sure cooling system is in good shape.

Fresh oil and filter to protect motor - a full synthetic 5W30 from Red Line or Amsoil would give a little more hp, full synthetic 10W30 would protect the motor a bit better, would still give a bit more hp than a mineral oil of the same weight. Use a Toyota 90915-YZZD3 filter for better flow.

New Denso plugs, cap, rotor (& wires if needed). New air filter and also new Toyota fuel filter if not changed in last 100k miles.

Add a bottle of Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner or CRC "Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula" to your tank and run it through before doing the run to clean your injectors. Those two have polyether amine in them which is about the only effective injector cleaning chem. Then fill tank (only half way - don't want to add weight) with 91-93 octane. Try to find a gas with 0% ethanol (E0, or non oxygenated) as the alcohol will kill your performance. Try Sunoco, maybe Shell.

Set base ignition timing to 14 deg btdc with jumper set. Gives noticeably snappier throttle response - some veezy owners run this timing even using 87 octane, but a higher octane will reduce likelihood of detonation which would cause computer to pull timing back down. After the run, 12 deg is a bit more conservative and runs fine with 87 octane, and is probably a better all-around base time for this motor than the 10 deg spec. But when getting an emissions test, set it back down to 10.

Remove all excess weight from vehicle - for at least one run, go without passenger.

Air up tires to 38 front, 36 rear

Drive it gently before the run - you want it operating temp but not too hot.

Choose a cool or cold day (should be easy this time of year).

Make the run at or near sea level.

Except for first shift, run rpms up to 5100-5200 before shifting (or up to red line if you really want to wring it out). First shift can come @ 4800 - 5000.

Have fun and be safe!

thats alot to think about. but if I were to REALLY do a 0-60 I would do it as is... I really dont want to pull my stereo and such out of the vehicle. I actually use 5W30 from castrol... fully synthetic. but yeah... truck would be ran as is. everything runs perfect on it and haven't had a problem with it yet

i'll do it whenever possible. probably on an on-ramp... at one of the carpool meters or whatever you might want to call it, just so im doing in a 65 miles per hour speed limit range.

pb4ugotobed · 10-04-2009, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR

I had an extremely long weekend, becase as many of you know I have been itching to get involved in installing my exhaust for my 4runner. im in the process of putting it all together. but the headers ARE on. I did them all myself, and have no real mechanic experience. so after 14-16 hours of wrenching, I did it. Im very pleased with it and it was such a sigh of relief. I'll be posting videos, pics... the whole nine yards. But first, I figured i'd post up a part and price list of the entire project. its not entirely done yet ( yes Im running straight pipes, for now. The cross over ends right above the crossmember ) the rest of it gets done tomorrow. so stay tuned

How much I've spent so far:

Doug thorley Headers - $618.00
Borla Turbo muffler - $150.00
Magnaflow hi flow cat - $65.10
Summit exhaust tip - $20.00

More to come:

Pipes welded on - $ 190.00

Total cost - $1043.10

Looks good, but wow... I didn't pay that much for my whole truck. I know my exhaust is in bad shape, muffler/pipes/everything else full of holes, but honestly I've gotten used to the noise. Besides, once I hit about 30mph or faster, Mr. Super Swamper wins that particular noise battle anyways

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 07:49 PM

lol yeah. I paid a butt load for it

but I love every bit of it. And I can guarantee, with this set up... the noise of the exhaust will drown your Mr. Super Swamper noise. I can have my stereo at 30 ( usually what I keep it at, got a ticket for it being at this limit ) and I can hear my exhaust growling. I love it

nowadays I keep the stereo volume at 5 ( just enough to hear it ) and just listen to my exhaust. heh

pb4ugotobed · 10-04-2009, 07:58 PM

Well, basically with my current "set-up" if you can call it that... I'm running open headers. It's LOUD. Bugged me for a while but I got over it pretty quickly. Have plenty of other things to fix on the truck before I worry about little things like exhaust. (we don't have emissions here anyways).

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 08:04 PM

yeah. emissions here suck :/ lol I wish I could run with out a cat... but eh, thats california. Despite the cat, I love the way it sounds... very throaty. I had a guy with a 2wd 4runner at a gas station ask me if I had a boxer motor in it...? I dont think it sounds like a boxer at all... but eh, everyone has their opinion

honestly, it sounds like a 3.4, to me.

MaK92-4RnR · 10-04-2009, 10:13 PM

little update... my truck is idling just above the 1k mark on the tach. but its also 50 degrees out, and this weather isn't normal in roseville lately... is my idle fine...?

MaK92-4RnR · 10-05-2009, 12:21 PM

another update... CEL turned off this morning... heh... mind of its own.

snowshredder555 · 11-01-2009, 01:19 AM

Where's it at? I'll subscribe to this thread till it comes on. BTW..nice job and the feeling that goes behind the tiny cuts and sraped knuckles and multiple hmmms' trying to figure it out as you stand there... is priceless when you have that much enjoyment in the end.

Question though- did you have to lift the engine at all?

-Ted

MaK92-4RnR · 11-01-2009, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowshredder555

Where's it at? I'll subscribe to this thread till it comes on. BTW..nice job and the feeling that goes behind the tiny cuts and sraped knuckles and multiple hmmms' trying to figure it out as you stand there... is priceless when you have that much enjoyment in the end.

Question though- did you have to lift the engine at all?

-Ted

I still haven't gotten around to it yet. I haven't had the video camera in my possession for a couple weeks, so I'll get around to it. I get it tomorrow so i'll see about the video

Yeah, the only problem I have with it now... is that its so loud that stupid ricers like to pull up next to me and act as if im racing them... just like the other day, im doing 65 on I - 80 and a trans am WS6 comes flying up next to me, slows down, gets next to me, looks at me, and floors it... I just turned to my buddy that was in the truck the me and laughed...

lmao

Lift the engine? nope. never moved anything except what was required... intake, vacuum hoses, manifolds and crossover.

EDIT: by the way, CEL is on again. came on two days ago. o2 censor is acting up again... I actually am thinking about going back to my stock Cat. the High flow makes a weird noise until its warmed up, also which is kind of annoying. So yeah, thinking about the stocker.

90-3vzeslug · 11-01-2009, 03:42 PM

subscribed

MaK92-4RnR · 11-01-2009, 04:55 PM

making a 1-5k rev video, fly by, and a 0-60 video here in a few. Just keeping everything updated.

MaK92-4RnR · 11-01-2009, 06:18 PM

Sorry for all the videos being dark... but its an exhaust video. So i guess its not really meant for visual

Here's my 0-60

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<a href="

MaK92-4RnR · 11-01-2009, 06:22 PM

what it sounds like inside the cab 1-5k

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MaK92-4RnR · 11-01-2009, 06:22 PM

outside the truck 1-5k

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<a href="

MaK92-4RnR · 11-01-2009, 06:22 PM

and I did this for the heck of it... this is what I hear all day, everyday

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<a href="

10-04-2009, 04:13 PM	#81 (permalink)
sb5walker Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Connecticut Posts: 354	Timing belt sets cam timing, not ignition timing. The 10 degrees mentioned is the base ignition timing spec set by rotating distrib (with jumper set in check connector). (If you think there could be over 70 miles on the timing belt, it needs to be replaced.) Really, just try adjusting the idle speed screw - any coin will work. __________________ 1989 V6 4x4 X-Cab 5spd 281k miles, Borla cat-back, K&N Filtercharger, 30x9.5 Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVOs

10-04-2009, 04:37 PM	#82 (permalink)
MaK92-4RnR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roseville, California ( NOR CAL ) Posts: 344	Adjusted the Idle screw... its back to normal /shrug. Like I said before, its running perfect. not too sure what the engine light is on for though. i'll figure it out. I hooked a ground wire back up to where it belonged. Forgot to wire it back up after the installation. but other than that. everything seems fine. guess we'll find out what the engine code is. EDIT: Yeah. I need to get the timing belt/water pump and driving belts done. also want to do the CV joints and radiator. lots of mechanical things need to be done. Im plannong on doing the timing belt, water pump, radiator and driving belts all in one. Knock it all out while im working in that general area. __________________ 1992 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0 V6 5 Speed - Completely stock with 136k Miles. Modifications: Exhaust: Doug thorley headers, magnaflow hi flow cat, borla turbo muffler, 2.25 piping with a 3" tip Stereo: Pioneer Premier Deck, 2 12" Subwoofers, Brand new speakers all around, 1 450w 4 channel amp, 1 1000w 2 channel amp. CB Radio: Cobra 19 DX IV 40-Channel Compact CB Radio Last edited by MaK92-4RnR; 10-04-2009 at 04:39 PM.

10-04-2009, 07:16 PM	#85 (permalink)
sb5walker Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Connecticut Posts: 354	Would be great to see what it can really do. Some things you can do to make performance as good as possible: If your timing belt is old and tired, probably best to replace it beforehand - very high revs are tough on old belts. Let the new belt break in 500 to a thousand miles or so before your run. If you can do your ISR before the run, that might help a bit, but won't make a huge difference. Calibrate your speedometer by maintaining exactly 60 miles per hour on a measured mile - should be 1 minute, if not, calculate correction to find what your speedo reads at 60 miles per hour true speed. Check your tachometer with a good shop tach/automotive multimeter so you don't overrev the motor. Clean throttle body if needed. Verify that when pedal is floored, butterfly valve is all the way open. Make sure cooling system is in good shape. Fresh oil and filter to protect motor - a full synthetic 5W30 from Red Line or Amsoil would give a little more hp, full synthetic 10W30 would protect the motor a bit better, would still give a bit more hp than a mineral oil of the same weight. Use a Toyota 90915-YZZD3 filter for better flow. New Denso plugs, cap, rotor (& wires if needed). New air filter and also new Toyota fuel filter if not changed in last 100k miles. Add a bottle of Red Line SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner or CRC "Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula" to your tank and run it through before doing the run to clean your injectors. Those two have polyether amine in them which is about the only effective injector cleaning chem. Then fill tank (only half way - don't want to add weight) with 91-93 octane. Try to find a gas with 0% ethanol (E0, or non oxygenated) as the alcohol will kill your performance. Try Sunoco, maybe Shell. Set base ignition timing to 14 deg btdc with jumper set. Gives noticeably snappier throttle response - some veezy owners run this timing even using 87 octane, but a higher octane will reduce likelihood of detonation which would cause computer to pull timing back down. After the run, 12 deg is a bit more conservative and runs fine with 87 octane, and is probably a better all-around base time for this motor than the 10 deg spec. But when getting an emissions test, set it back down to 10. Remove all excess weight from vehicle - for at least one run, go without passenger. Air up tires to 38 front, 36 rear Drive it gently before the run - you want it operating temp but not too hot. Choose a cool or cold day (should be easy this time of year). Make the run at or near sea level. Except for first shift, run rpms up to 5100-5200 before shifting (or up to red line if you really want to wring it out). First shift can come @ 4800 - 5000. Have fun and be safe! __________________ 1989 V6 4x4 X-Cab 5spd 281k miles, Borla cat-back, K&N Filtercharger, 30x9.5 Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVOs

10-04-2009, 07:49 PM	#88 (permalink)
MaK92-4RnR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roseville, California ( NOR CAL ) Posts: 344	lol yeah. I paid a butt load for it but I love every bit of it. And I can guarantee, with this set up... the noise of the exhaust will drown your Mr. Super Swamper noise. I can have my stereo at 30 ( usually what I keep it at, got a ticket for it being at this limit ) and I can hear my exhaust growling. I love it nowadays I keep the stereo volume at 5 ( just enough to hear it ) and just listen to my exhaust. heh __________________ 1992 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0 V6 5 Speed - Completely stock with 136k Miles. Modifications: Exhaust: Doug thorley headers, magnaflow hi flow cat, borla turbo muffler, 2.25 piping with a 3" tip Stereo: Pioneer Premier Deck, 2 12" Subwoofers, Brand new speakers all around, 1 450w 4 channel amp, 1 1000w 2 channel amp. CB Radio: Cobra 19 DX IV 40-Channel Compact CB Radio

10-04-2009, 08:04 PM	#90 (permalink)
MaK92-4RnR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roseville, California ( NOR CAL ) Posts: 344	yeah. emissions here suck :/ lol I wish I could run with out a cat... but eh, thats california. Despite the cat, I love the way it sounds... very throaty. I had a guy with a 2wd 4runner at a gas station ask me if I had a boxer motor in it...? I dont think it sounds like a boxer at all... but eh, everyone has their opinion honestly, it sounds like a 3.4, to me. __________________ 1992 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0 V6 5 Speed - Completely stock with 136k Miles. Modifications: Exhaust: Doug thorley headers, magnaflow hi flow cat, borla turbo muffler, 2.25 piping with a 3" tip Stereo: Pioneer Premier Deck, 2 12" Subwoofers, Brand new speakers all around, 1 450w 4 channel amp, 1 1000w 2 channel amp. CB Radio: Cobra 19 DX IV 40-Channel Compact CB Radio

10-04-2009, 02:01 PM	#77 (permalink)
Ric's 91 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 5	I need a new exhaust

10-04-2009, 07:58 PM	#89 (permalink)
pb4ugotobed Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 111	Well, basically with my current "set-up" if you can call it that... I'm running open headers. It's LOUD. Bugged me for a while but I got over it pretty quickly. Have plenty of other things to fix on the truck before I worry about little things like exhaust. (we don't have emissions here anyways).

10-04-2009, 10:13 PM	#91 (permalink)
MaK92-4RnR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roseville, California ( NOR CAL ) Posts: 344	little update... my truck is idling just above the 1k mark on the tach. but its also 50 degrees out, and this weather isn't normal in roseville lately... is my idle fine...? __________________ 1992 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0 V6 5 Speed - Completely stock with 136k Miles. Modifications: Exhaust: Doug thorley headers, magnaflow hi flow cat, borla turbo muffler, 2.25 piping with a 3" tip Stereo: Pioneer Premier Deck, 2 12" Subwoofers, Brand new speakers all around, 1 450w 4 channel amp, 1 1000w 2 channel amp. CB Radio: Cobra 19 DX IV 40-Channel Compact CB Radio

10-05-2009, 12:21 PM	#92 (permalink)
MaK92-4RnR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roseville, California ( NOR CAL ) Posts: 344	another update... CEL turned off this morning... heh... mind of its own. __________________ 1992 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0 V6 5 Speed - Completely stock with 136k Miles. Modifications: Exhaust: Doug thorley headers, magnaflow hi flow cat, borla turbo muffler, 2.25 piping with a 3" tip Stereo: Pioneer Premier Deck, 2 12" Subwoofers, Brand new speakers all around, 1 450w 4 channel amp, 1 1000w 2 channel amp. CB Radio: Cobra 19 DX IV 40-Channel Compact CB Radio

11-01-2009, 01:19 AM	#93 (permalink)
snowshredder555 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rancho Cucamonga, So.Cal Posts: 28	0 - 60 miles per hour video... Where's it at? I'll subscribe to this thread till it comes on. BTW..nice job and the feeling that goes behind the tiny cuts and sraped knuckles and multiple hmmms' trying to figure it out as you stand there... is priceless when you have that much enjoyment in the end. Question though- did you have to lift the engine at all? -Ted __________________ MODS: OME901 rear <--(gained 3" on the worn stock coils), BJ spacers 1.5", Diff Drop kit, lowered front sway bar brackets, ALLPROOFFROAD rear extended brake line, drilled air cleaner, R/C shocks, RB track bar bracket, lockright'd, Hankook DynaPro M/T 35's, cranked T-Bars....and the list goes on.

11-01-2009, 03:42 PM	#95 (permalink)
90-3vzeslug Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: RI Posts: 129	subscribed __________________ 90 3vze 4x4 runner mostly stock. custom isr mod, cherry bomb turbo muffler 31x10.5 Coursers with stock 4.10s hehe. custom 4runner a$$ sag :( and 1 extremely dirty lebra. (no hood scoops)

11-01-2009, 04:55 PM	#96 (permalink)
MaK92-4RnR Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roseville, California ( NOR CAL ) Posts: 344	making a 1-5k rev video, fly by, and a 0-60 video here in a few. Just keeping everything updated. __________________ 1992 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0 V6 5 Speed - Completely stock with 136k Miles. Modifications: Exhaust: Doug thorley headers, magnaflow hi flow cat, borla turbo muffler, 2.25 piping with a 3" tip Stereo: Pioneer Premier Deck, 2 12" Subwoofers, Brand new speakers all around, 1 450w 4 channel amp, 1 1000w 2 channel amp. CB Radio: Cobra 19 DX IV 40-Channel Compact CB Radio

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