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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 04-23-2009, 08:17 AM   #1
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22RE REALLY hard to start cold

I have been beating my head aginst the wall on this one. I have a '93 22RE that cranks for about 3 mins before comming to life. I do not think the cold start inj is working ( i can not feel it clicking or if I unplug it there is no change). There is not a lot of smoke when it starts like the inj are leaking. The plugs are clean and dry. I have pinned out just about everything on the ECU with no luck. No codes. When it dose start it runs great! Any ideas would be great!!!
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:29 AM   #2
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Have you tried even replacing the cold start inj.???

Edit: or unplug it and put the testor on it and have someone crank it for you and see if theres a signal...
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:30 AM   #3
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test the coolant temperature sensor:
Click the image to open in full size.

Edit: to test the cold start injector pull it out and crank it to see if it sprays. If its good then it is the coolant temperature sensor. I had the same problem.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:03 AM   #4
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If I am understanding you right I remove the cold start inj and turn it around and put the banjo bolt in backwards? The steal line will not allow me to pull it far enough out to see it sparying other wise. I do not think I am getting the signal from to ecu for the cold start. I have pinned out the ecu and ohmed all the wiring and the cold time switch as well. All check good with the expection of no signal from the ecu. I have just about ruled everything out but the ecu. Do these ecus have a problem of going bad? I have been testing and retesting because a new cold start inj is about $130 and the time switch is $80. I think I have a line on a ecu for around $50. What is the process for checking for paulse to that inj? A noid light? Will a test light work? Any more off the wall ideas that I have not tryed yet before I start dumping large amounts of cash into it?
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:06 AM   #5
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P.S. it has a new coolent temp sensor and a new coolent sender for the gauge as well. There was a problem with the harness that runs under the intake where the wires rubbed through and grounded the the fuel rail. I cut out the bad spots and soddered in jumpers then ohmed them to double ckeck my repair......
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:17 AM   #6
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maybe the cold start injector wires did the same thing??
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:26 AM   #7
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The wire from the ecu to the cold inj got torched for sure. That is one that I fixed and rechecked my work on. Has anyone blown a ecu over this? A heads up to all if I did pop my ecu check the harness under the runners on top of the fuel rail!!!!!!! I found out the were shorting when I went to unplug my temp sender for my gauge with the engine running and I died. I blew the ecu fuse. I unplugged all the connectors on the top of the engine and feed them under the manifold and split the loom. I found two that had been worn through so I took out abot a inch and a half and soddered a jumper in.
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Old 04-24-2009, 05:22 PM   #8
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I found my problem!! It truned out to be a wire shorted to ground behind the dash. I will explain so if anyone runs into this it will save you some time..

The cold start injector is powered from the ing stitch from pin ST1 acording to the dealer manual. ST1 is the #6 pin on the ing switch connector. So when the key is turned to the run or crank possion it sends power through the #6 (black w/ white stripe) wire across the back of the dash to the connector (gray) behind the ECU. From that connector it goes through the fire wall and will tee off to both the cold start inj and the cold start time switch (still a black w/ white stripe wire).

You should with the key in the run position have power to the black w/white stripe for the inj and the switch. Power will be there hot or cold it will not matter because the other wire green and red I think is the groung signal from the ECU. The power source from the key all the way to the inj is a 12V so a test light will let you know if there is power.

I have found a easy way to check how the inj. First remove the metal line from the inj. Then remove the two 10mm that hold it in. Pull the inj out of the intake. Turn the inj around ( to face the drivers side ) and put the banjo bold back in from the other side. This will keep you from bending the line..

I really hope this will help someone out if you run into this problem down the road.......
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilgreg46 View Post

You should with the key in the run position have power to the black w/white stripe for the inj and the switch. Power will be there hot or cold it will not matter because the other wire green and red I think is the groung signal from the ECU. The power source from the key all the way to the inj is a 12V so a test light will let you know if there is power. .
I have 2 black wires coming from the ignition and one has white stripe and the other a yellow stripe. The white has no power on it in any position and the one with yellow has it in all positions. You sure its the one with the white stripe
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:14 AM
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22r, 22re, cam, cold, hard, injector, key, problem, rv, source, start, swith, temperature, test, toyota

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