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1994 4runner no start

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Old 11-19-2015, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ammonhotep
Timing may be correct on ONE side (#1 cylinder), but if the timing is incorrect on the even numbered cylinders, the engine won't run. Checking timing with a timing gun will only give you info on the odd numbered cylinders.

Simple test: Put your hand in the air intake and crank the motor. If the 2-4-6 side is off, you'll feel a push/pull of air, rather than just a pull.

If you feel an alternating push/pull of air, confirm by pulling the belt cover and checking alignment of the timing marks on the cam pulleys.

If it's not that, I have no other idea to help you.

THank you ammonhoptep. I think what you are saying is exactly the problem I have. As I quoted in my previous thread I will be pulling the front cover tom to check the timing marks on the opposite cam. Thanks for the help. I will let you know tomorrow.
Old 11-21-2015, 11:15 AM
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I took the front cover off and the timing marks are lining up perfectly same as i left it the last time. Belt is new and tight. I am a bit lost now as I thought it would have to be the timing as the engine would only start if i advanced the distributor as far as it can go. Start but run rough and would stall if i dont increase the speed gradually. Is there anything else that can cause these symptoms??
Old 11-21-2015, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by scope103
... (have you checked ignition timing?) ...
Originally Posted by TRINI MIKE
... the timing marks are lining up perfectly ... I thought it would have to be the timing as the engine would only start if i advanced the distributor as far as it can go. ...
Is it possible you are confusing VALVE timing (set by the timing belt) with IGNITION timing (set by the distributor)?

Ignition timing is checked (and set) with a timing light. "Setting the timing by ear" is just another name for "blowing a hole in a piston." If the distributor gear is off by one tooth that moves the timing by about 28°. A $20 timing light will tell you if that is your situation, then the fix is easy.
Old 11-23-2015, 03:40 PM
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Thanks Scope103 for getting back to me. I know the difference between Valve timing and Ignition timing. I checked the valve or cam timing 2 or 3 times and all the marks line up perfectly. Distributor or ignition timing I set with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug lead on the distributor with the crankshaft pulley marks on 0 and all cam marks lining up. Engine would only start when I advanced or turned the distributor all the way it could go with the adjuster bolt in place. Engine still ran rough.
Changed the coil and the engine started and ran smooth with the distributor in the normal position. Put a timing light on it and at 10* BTDC it boggs down when I try to throttle up. I have to advance past the scale at I can only guess 35*BTDC for it to run properly.
Question?? Is there something else than can effect the timing in this way? Knock sensor, etc??? Sorry for the long post but I am stumped.
Kind Regards TRINI MIKE
Old 11-23-2015, 09:08 PM
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Did you remember to put the jumper (TE1 to E1) in to lock the ECU into base timing? That should only produce about a 5° difference (if that), but you need to start somewhere.

It is POSSIBLE that the annular rubber ring on the harmonic balancer has failed, rotating the ring with the timing mark. You should be able to see some disturbed rubber (if this has happened, the harmonic balancer is toast). You can check the TDC indication by dropping a plastic straw in the #1 plug hole.
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