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reason I started this thread was for the issue of the wheel wells - cannot fit a standard L shape transfer tank in the bed box of my LN 67 - so trying to figure if the long bed would be a solution - and then of course - the next question would be - is a long bed longer where ?- in front ( behind the cabin ) or aft of the wheel wells - are the frame rails longer ( behind the rear axle ) on the 2wh dr extra cab long bed option - or is axle wheelbase different - logic would suggest the bed is longer at rear behind wheel wells- but not certain with all of the comments posted here -
As I understand it, you have short and long wheel base frames in a given generation. The there are short and extra cabs, with the xcab being lengthened behind the seats, therefore it pushes into the bed, but the frame is the LWB version and the bed is std. length. On a long bed, you have a short cab and LWB frame, with the added bed length in the front. So essentially, from the rear wheel wells back, all are the same, from the front seats forward all the same. Only difference is the size of the cab and the length of bed between the cab and the rear wheel wells.
Gotcha- but what of the extra cab 2 whl drive long bed option? if it the std long bed - rear axle mount / wheelbase would be different /longer - unless Toyota made 3 beds
Gotcha- but what of the extra cab 2 whl drive long bed option? if it the std long bed - rear axle mount / wheelbase would be different /longer - unless Toyota made 3 beds
cheers:
Never looked at one of those up close, the wheel base information should tell you a lot. On the early 4WD turcks (up to '88) I think the numbers were ~103" on the SWB and ~112" on the LWB models and 9" was the difference, the '89" models were ~122" on the LWB so about 19" difference. If the 2WD xcab/long bed is a longer wheel base then you can probably figure out the difference.
the box of the long bed on the ext.cab of 2wd is the same as the 4x4 longbed. the 2wd long bed frame is 18 inches longer at the rear of the cab and the front of the bed. I see one of these ext.cab 2wd everyday at work and ive seen many on the road, they are not all that rare. for you to have both an ext.cab and a longbed on the same frame for a 4x4 will require custom fab. You will either have to lengthen the frame or move the fender wells on the box of the bed its self. hopefully the points you in the direction of info. you are looking for.
So now the question changes to - ( what) is there difference in a 4wd drive shaft as to a 2wd ? Or because of the transfer gearbox I would have to get a new shaft made..... Should I find a suitable 2wd Xtracab longbed I wish to make a 4wd-
Would be great if Toyota made an Xtracab longbed 1 ton model
Aside from length, the 2WD shafts are a slip yoke into the back of the transmission. The 4WD shafts have a (companion) flange at the back of the transfer case.
of course ...... already knew it would not be an easy endeavor
and dark_faireytales : cheers ya for the info - I am thinking more to get a decent shape long bed extra cab and just swap my current drive train into it - of course a new rear drive shaft - its more about the extra cab long bed frame and long bed box - and of course if I am gonna dream big - a rear end from a turbo truck
Easiest way I can think of is to find a cheap, broke-down, parts, or wrecked beater long bed for the bed and rear frame section (2wd should be OK, is OK for the early (1979-1983) (up to the under-side of the cab, on the straight-section of the 4" tall frame, before it narrows for the front wheels. Cut Rear Section Frame as far forward, at the non-tapered section, preferably on a 45 degree angle. (gives you more weld length, and a stronger weld).
Cut second frame Front Section at matching angle (either / or \ ), as far back as possible on the straight section of the frame (just before the frame kick-up and the front spring perch/bracket for the rear axle
Locate some 4" Box, channel or two pieces of 1"x2" angle steel, such that it will fit tightly inside the frame section, for a good ways ( 1 foot or more each side of the join is good). Secure to the frame section. Bolts, rivets are good, and can be left in after the welding.
Slide both pieces together.
Check for identical mearsurements to reference points. You don't want to ˟˟˟˟˟ up the alignment, and be dog-tracking all over the place. Double Check. Triple Check.
Secure 2nd section, once in place.
Weld (or have Welded) the joint. Fishplate on the outside, if desired, for aditional strength.
Have a local driveline shop build a Front Drive-Line Section (of the stock 2-piece drive-line) to your specs (It might be cheaper to have them transfer the center carier bearing end to a sourced short-bed driveline of sufficient length)
You should be good for a maximum of ~ 2' increase in wheelbase with a Long-wheelbase rear, short Wheel-base front, or a maximum of ~ 3' increase in wheelbase with a long rear, long front combination.
This should allow you the full stock 7' Long-Bed, Stock Rear-Driveline Section, the Extended Cab, 4wd, extra stock cab & bed mounts(optional), and (optional) space between the bed & cab (usefull for storage, tool-boxes, sleeper, etc)
Check with your local DMV for applicable regulations regarding registration, title, vin information, etc.
Anyone know if a long bed is possible on an extra cab
i want to say no - well not REALLY - I'de rather say yes
But want to ask if anyone know it can be done and done righth
Cheers thanks
Yes, I had a 1986 long bed xtra cab. It had the second longest wheelbase of all pick ups for that year. Only the flatbed was longer. The turning circle was ridiculously large. I got a good deal. I think the dealer was eager to dump it.
i took a regular cab long bed frame and shortened it to fit a regular cab short bed, you could do the same thing but rather than making it shorter you would make it longer by adding a section in.
12-02-2009, 07:50 PM
