sandro88l

Ok hello fellow automotive enthusiast. I'm a newbie to this posting stuff so thanks in advance. I have read EXTENSIVELY for months in different forums and I don't find the specific answers, so here I go. I have a 1986 rwd 22re automatic true 6 bolt one ton full floating rear axle pickup motorhome, weighs bout 5000lbs. The front axle is actually the original old 5 bolt pattern and I'm not sure if that front axle is different from the 6 bolt one and if it even matters or makes a difference for it being a motorhome and a diesel engine swap maybe going to make it to heavy for it?? that's another question I have. But it does have the good rear axle that got upgraded just that year and up for these motorhomes. Anyways I want to swap to the 2lt and maybe even the 2lte. The most common option I see and like is buying a 1984-1986 pickup 4x4 5 speed manual sometimes 2lt or just the 2l here in united states in bad to ehh condition. I like this option because I want everything to look like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel. If i get the 2l I'm thinking of buying the turbo kit on ebay maybe with an intercooler upgrading to the 3l head due to the over heating issued cracking 2lt heads and raising turbo to 12psi. I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck. But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what?? Can i remove the 4x4 option from the tranny if i decide to swap the 2l engine with the manual tranny that it comes with if so how?? Will I need to get a different computer one originally for the 2wd auto diesel?? For the motorhome i definitely want to keep it rwd that's not an option to change, less overall weight better economy for me. I can deal with the 5 speed manual, i kind of like the idea of it, but im also very happy with auto trans so which ever scenario is cheaper, works better or both. I've seen the kits to rebuild these engines and trannys on eBay for decent prices. I have a family owned auto sale business equipped with a nice strong at least 20ft hydraulic lift. plus engine lifts compressors and plenty of tools. and my step father is a decent diagnostic pull out put in mechanic but never worked on diesel engines before. What do you guys recommend? Any input would be GREATLY appreciated I've been planning this for over 2 years now saving a decent amount of money and spending a lot doing a restoration to my rv that I bought for 1,200$ I want it to be an icon for economical innovative off the grid living design utilizing solar panels to power home electrical living and the option of using bio-diesel. I personally deal with web management and I'm a project consultant at a Miami online based product development firm. This Toyota motorhome truck is my dream project. Thanks again

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am not trying to run you off but I dont think you are going to get a lot of help on the Toyota Diesel, something I wish I knew more about myself. One day I hope to have a Toyota diesel too.

As far a removing the 4 wheel drive option from your transmission, you would be removing your transfer case and that is how you get power to the rear wheels. You are going to have to get a two wheel transmission or have a 4 wheel transmission with the transfer case attached and not front axle being used.

I am not as familiar with the motor homes but 2 wheel trucks are 5 lug and 4 wheel are 6 lug. I have seen Toyota campers and believe they are more then 6 lugnuts on the rear axle, maybe 8 lugs but I could be wrong on that.

Here is a diesel with wiring for sale https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f107...eld-oh-268566/

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Paragraphs would help.

That said it sounds like you have a hybrid truck. A 2wd back and 4wd front, and a gasoline body.

Also you may be opening a can of worms. I would suggest strongly that you come up with a plan, because I really do believe you have someone else's failed project on your hands.

sandro88l

jdemaris wrote on Toyota motorhome forum:
jdemaris wrote on Toyota motorhome forum:

My opinion on a few of your questions:

A: The trucks with the 6 lug front hubs (to match the FF rear) use the same wheel bearings as the 5 lug hubs. NO difference in weight-carrying capacity. What often IS different is the brake package. Front disk brakes with the six-lug hubs use a larger effective-diamter rotor.

B: The 2L and 2LT use same type transmissions as the 20R and 22R/RE gas engines. Diesels use their own bell-housings though and the starter motors are on the opposite side. The automatic transmission for the diesel though might have a torque-conveter with a different stall-speed. You'd have to double-check that.

Regardless of which diesel you use - I think you are asking for problems - especially if you want to run 12 PSI boost along with an intercooler. Too little of an engine and too much load. A 2LT barely makes the power of a 20R gas engine and makes a lot less then a 22RE gas engine. 20-21 foot high-roof Toyota RVs are already underpowered with the 22REs and it just gets worse with a diesel. Also the diesel is MUCH more prone to crack heads once you turn the fuel delivery up and increase boost - or sneak more air in by cooling and condensing it. If you had a way to install a 4.88 to 1 rear axle ratio and a 6 speed tranmssion - a diesel might be bearable.

C: NO computer needed if you use a 2L or 2LT. Electrical hookups are very simple. One switch hot wire for the injection-pump shut-off solenoid, and a glow-plug circuit that can be as simple as a push-button and a relay with no controller if wanted.

D: I'm not sure what you mean by "bio-diesel." Alternative fuels used in any diesel with a mechanical rotary/distributor injection pump can be a disaster. Some forms of factory made "bio-diesel" made with high-lube sources like "Canada OIl" - "AKS "Canola OIl" have high lube and are OK. Other types are not. Using "deep dryer" oil can ruin a rotary pump pretty fast. For this reason - unless you are sticking to one type of "bio-fuel" known to have good lube - and you REALLY want a diesel - you'd better find one with a mechanical "in-line" pump, or a new non-mechanical electronic type. All the Toyota 2L and 2LT diesels I've seen have rotary/distributor mechanical pumps and cannot tolerate low-lube or "questionable" lube fuels.

I'm not trying to discourage you. Just explaining a few facts as I know them. I've worked in several diesel injection shops and seen a lot of trashed pumps - usually from people trying to run alternative fuels. Diesel engines always ;put out less power and torque then gas engines with equal bore & stroke and aspiration. So - generally speaking - if you want a diesel to have the same "get up and go" as a 22RE gas engine - you need something with 2.8 to 3 liters.

If you already have a chosen fuel source that is known to be high lube - and some how is regarded as "green" - go for it. None of it really is - but that's not the point here, I guess. It takes a lot of good-old petro-oil to make so-called "bio-fuel." So far, it's been a huge waste of time and money.

sandro88l

Just so you know what I'm talking about - with types of mechanical injection pumps.

An "in-line" pump on a diesel has a box with a camshaft in it and each cylinder in the engine has it's own dedicated injection pump. So - with a four cylinder engine like the 3B diesel Toyota put in Dynas and Land Cruisers - each cylinder has its own pump. With the 3B four-banger - four pumps and a VERY rugged setup that is highly tolerant to alternative fuels.

A "rotary/distributor" pump on a diesel uses just small pump mechanism regardless if 3 cylinders or 8 cylinders. One little pump that has an added "distributor" section that routes the fuel charges, one by one, and cylinders are ready for them. Not a lot different then the theory of an ignition distributor with a rotor and cap. A rotary injection pump has a "rotor and head." Very sensitive and prone to failure unless lube in the fuel is perfect. As far as I know, all the Toyota L engines have this type.

If I wanted to put an "old school" indirect-injected diesel into an 80s Toyota 21 foot RV - I'd go with the Toyota 3B from a Land Cruiser. 3.4 liters, a little less HP than a 22RE gas engine, but a bit more low-end torque.

Here are photos comparing an "in-line" to a "rotary-distributor" pump.
Attached Thumbnails

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sandro88l

DanS HJ-45 replied to a thread you are watching
'91 Pickup diesel conversion


The L family of diesel engines are about 150 pounds heavier than the R family of gas engines. Your axle should be fine.

If you ask me, if you put a 2LT-E into a motor home you will be pushing the engine MUCH harder than it really should be, and you will suffer cracked heads regularly.

If I were dead set on an L series engine, I'd suggest you get a 3L (2.8L). You can easily install a 3L (same amount of work as installing a 2L, BTW) and make it look "like original stock upgraded 1986 Toyota diesel" as you say. You can also put the turbo from a 2LT-E setup onto the 3L, if you really need the turbo--and it will all look very stock. Still have concerns about cracking heads, but much less than with a 2LT-E.
You understand that these engines run toasty, and crack heads. Thats good. But realize that more power and more boost isn't exactly going to help that.

I'm thinking to maybe put the other truck back together also to re-sell as a gas truck. Not a bad idea, although it may get you more money if you were to part them out.

But anyways so to begin I'm kind of lost in a few areas here, will the 4x4 diesel bell housing bolt on the auto transmission that i have now then I just need the 2wd auto 2lt computer or what??
The bell housing mates the engine to the transmission. That's it. That's all that matters. You need the bell housing that fits between whatever engine you buy and the transmission you want to run. Engines and transmissions are built in "families." The 2LII/2LII-T/2LT-E and 3L are all the same family, so the forward end of the bell housing will bolt up to all of them. There is a G family of transmissions (G52, G58, etc...) a W family of transmissions (W56, etc...) and an R family of transmissions. I just listed some of the manual transmission families. The automatic flavors are similar. Some of these are 2WD, some of these are 4WD. Some of them are as simple as replacing the T-case with a 2WD output housing, and others that may not be possible no matter what you do. I don't own anything 2WD (and never will) so I have never done this myself.

The auto transmission will rob some power. They simply aren't as efficient as passing the power from the engine through using gears that mesh with one another.

It's a cool idea, no doubt. If it was me though, I'd branch out from the L series of Toyota diesels. 1KZ-TE (which still has some head cracking issues, but not as many), or even newer Toyota diesels. If you can weld and fabricate (or have access to people who can) you can make them look very stock.

Dan

sandro88l

Posted 17 May 2015 - 03:55 PM Sandro L, on 17 May 2015 - 09:45 AM, said:I was a "diesel nut" going back to the 1960s when diesel wasn't "cool" in the USA. My german boss in a bakery I worked at has a Mercedes diesel car and used to dump deep-fryer oil right into the tank through a cheesecloth filter. I also got to drive in a Jeep CJ that had the factory option of a Perkins four-cylinder diesel in the middle 60s. I built a few diesel pickup trucks in the early 70s. One with a John Deere diesel and another with a very loud Detroit 3-53. Dodge sort of did the same in 1977 or 1978 when they offered a Mitsubishi 6 cylinder diesel (a farm equipment engine) in their full-size trucks. Was NOT a big seller and was dropped fast. In the 80s - I was fascinated by all the little mini-trucks and cars with odd-ball foreign diesels. Dodge used Mitsubishi or Perkins in their MiniRam trucks. Chevy just rebadged Isuzu PUP diesel trucks as LUVs and Opels with Isuzu diesels as "diesel Chevettes." Chevy also offered S10 mid-sized trucks with Isuzu diesels. Ford used Mazda, Perkins, and BMW diesels. All those really neat and small diesel vehicles and none were great sellers. And that was when diesel fuel was a lot cheaper then regulare gas AND had more BTU energy in it then it has now. Now with diesel sometimes being a full dollar more per gallon then regular gas, and having less energy in it, and needing a lube-additive when used in some older mechanical pumps - I'm not so fascinated anymore. Much of the "diesel advantage" has been lost.

If you really want to build one - nothing wrong with that. Just as long as you do not set your expectations too high and don't base what your results may be based on Internet posts that are often BS - especially when it comes to power or fuel mileage. I've also got to laugh when I see people claim that diesels are simpler. A gas engine is MUCH simpler. A gas engine from the 70s-80s has fuel system most any mechanic can work on. Same with the ignition system. But - try bringing a diesel to your average repair shop and see if anyone there has even a clue how an injection pump works or how to fix one. Most will just remove it if suspect and send it away to get fixed with a very high price-tag. If you have a shop you think is good with old-school diesels - ask a few questions. Like - do they have an injector tester? Do they have a diesel timing light adapter? Can they work on a fuel injection pump in-house? Most places will answer "no" to all those questions. Unlike a gas engine - with a separate fuel system and ignition system - a diesel has both as one system. So with a diesel - you've got both a fuel system and an ignition system that few people have a clue how to diagnose problems or repair, in-house.

I'm pretty much giving up on messing with any more diesels. I still have a few diesel tractors. Also still have my 1985 Isuzu 4WD diesel PUP mini-truck and my 1994 diesel 445 cubic inche Ford F250. I ran my PUP for years on heating oil - but cannot even do that anymore. My Ford F250? Great truck to ride in but at a best of 17.5 MPG when empty? My 1995 F150 with a 300 cube gas-six also gets 17.5 MPG and does so with regular gas that is just about always cheaper.

One other factor that diesels used to have as a nice advantage over gas engines. Since all diesels are fuel-injected - they have always run steady and smooth (although not a lot of fun when starting out cold). Gas engines did not have that luxury back in the 60s to early 80s. Now with newer gas engines being fuel injected - they run just as well if not better.

One neat thing you can do with the right diesel - is run it on waste deep-fryer oil. But - you can also run a gas engine on wood-smoke and that wood-smoke is a renewable resource - whereas the deep-fryer oil probably is not.

sandro88l

• *READ THIS 1ST* Toyota diesel conversions FAQ *updated 1/22/13*
05-11-2004, 01:55 PM
Ok, I get so many emails concerning this subject that I thought it appropriate to take the time to right up a little FAQ on toyota diesels and converting USA/Canada trucks.

Q: Which years were they originally available in the USA/Canada?
A: The toyota trucks were available in 2wd for in 1981-1986. The engines themselves changed but they all share a similar design (IDI inline 4cylinder). You could get the 4wd models in 1985-86 in a turbo diesel form (2L-T). Although some of these 4wd versions I have seen with a 2L non turbo.

Q: What are the engines that were available with these trucks?
A: There were 3 truck diesel engines available here in the states.
1L-the first diesel engine available here in the US. A slow but rugged engine. It only was available NA
2L- A larger displacement 2.2L overhead cam inline 4 cylinder. A little better power than the 1L but no powerhouse.
2L-T- A turbo charged version of the 2L which in later models featured a roller rocker valve train and lower compression to compensate for the extra heat created by forced induction. The final version available from Toyota sold here in the USA and Canada.

Q: Are parts hard to find for these engines?
A: Not too bad. Some stuff can be found at NAPA and dealerships. It really depends what you are looking for. Some parts are no longer available so finding them requires a creative thinker. Since Toyota built these things in a modular fashion, most parts can be had from your local dealership. It helps to find the part number in the Toyota EPC here:
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...load_links.htm

Q: I want to convert my USA/Canada truck to diesel. What engine/combo is the easiest to convert and cheapest?
A: All three engines share the same bolt pattern. So you can really use any of them.

Q: What is the ideal truck to convert?
A: 4x4 trucks/4runners from 1985-1995 with the 22re gas engine and w56 transmission should bolt right up. The electrical will be a little more involved but nothing too difficult.

Q: Which transmission should I use for my conversion?
A: The w56 transmission is what you will need for any L series toyota diesel conversion. This is a 5-speed overdrive 4x4 transmission with a removable bellhousing. You will need to purchase a diesel bellhousing and swap out the gas bellhousing for the diesel one in order to mate the engine trans up sucessfully. The reason for this is that on the 22re the starter is on the passenger's side of the car. On the diesel, the starter is on the driver's side of the car. If you were to try and get around this, the turbo would basically be touching the starter and it wouldn't fit. The W56 was standard on 4x4 trucks and 4 runners from 1985-1995.

Q: Which engine would you recommend from your experiences?
A: The 1L and the 2L are not really worth the time. They are painfully slow and in a 4x4 setting, they are greatly underpowered. Pretty good for a little 2wd truck though. To convert a 2wd truck just buy the 2wd diesel trans complete with bellhousing and install. There are 3 more engine available only in Europe that are highly recommended for anyone doing a diesel conversion. They are:

2L-TE- Same block as the 2L and 2L-T but has an electronically controlled timing advance module in the injection pump which gives is much better response time under load. It controls mroe finely the fuel delivery and has a larger advance curve giving it a slight Hp increase of 10hp from the 2LT. The bad news with this engine is that; due to a casting flaw from Toyota, they are highly prone to cracking between the exhaust valves requiring a replacement head. Toyota issued a TSB (technical service bulletin) regarding the casting issue and ultimately redesigned the head with a new casting to alleviate the problem with cracking. The new cylinder casting is identical to the cylinder heads used on the 3L engines and can be purchased through Toyota USA for approx $600 usd. This coupled with the fact that they are not exactly powerhouses make them a suitable but not ideal candidate for conversion. Additionally, wiring is comparable to a 1kzte conversion.

3L- A 2.8 liter sharing the same block as the 2L and 2L-T/2L-TE. A manually controlled injection pump so they are not too complicated to wire up. Since they are not turbocharged, they are not as powerful as the 2LTE's but for a small 2WD truck, they're great.

Q:How difficult are these things to wire up?
A: Depends on which engine you're dealing with. For the 1L. 2L. 2LT's, and 3L's there is really one wire to hook up for the fuel cut solenoid. This basically allows fuel to reach the inector lines. Wiring up the temp sending unit etc requires a bit of reading but nothing too difficult.

Q:What all needs to be swapped out with my gas truck if I were to buy a half cut?
A:You will need to take out the following:
engine
trans
fuel tank
dash
wiring harness
driveshafts
I'm sure theres more but if these dont deter you then go ahead.

Q: I cant get my a/c system to cycle on and off like it should. It was working fine before the conversion. What's the problem?
A: All toyota trucks and 4 runners from 1990-1995 use what's called an a/c amplifier. This basically is a logic circuit that takes 3 different signals and then decides if your system is ready to operate.
1 signal is the tachometer signal. Even if the truck is not equipped with a factory tachometer, it still gets this signal from the factory. This tells the a/c amp that the engine is running. Then it needs an idle up signal which it basically sends a +12v to increase the engine RPM. To use this feature, you can use an idle up solenoid from an 85-88 celica or truck with te 22re engine. it's got 2 wires, 1 12v and other is ground. When energised is pulls and not, it retracts.Last is the switch in the dash. This is the sending unit which sends the power to the a/c amp which tells it to turn on. If you have all of these signals, your a/c will function flawlessly. This info took me 2 months of reading schematics to learn.

Q: there's not much info regarding Toyota diesels on the internet. Where is a good place to start reading?
A: Right here as well as http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/ which is an Australian Toyota board. Very helpful bunch over there!

If you have any other questions that are not convered in this FAQ feel free to PM me through this board. I will help in any way I can. Todd

sandro88l

ok so my new idea is get a 1984-85 in usa for cheap Toyota diesel manual 4x4. and work on that truck by it self alone for along time and basically prep it for my motorhome when the time comes years down the road. as I said my folks own a whole car lot plenty of space to park a lil truck in the back .My step pops has access to Mitchell on demand btw. and supposedly that's one of the most expensive mechanic programs that has everything in detail for every component. my only concern now is finding a 2wd transfer case for the diesel truck or maybe replace the whole transmission with a 2wd manual 5speed tranny with diesel bell housing. eventually swap out the 2l or 2lt engine with a 3l 2.8 litre diesel and eventually get the 2lte turbo kit for it and add a intercooler. any input?

millball

Enough money makes all things possible.

sandro88l

okay so the easiest truck for me to get for cheap and so I can do this project is a 84-86 4x4 manual 5spd manual either a 2l or 2lt. I see them a lot in bad condition as far as cosmetics. and for cheap 1000-3500. I plan on working on this truck over years prepping it for 2wd and 3lt. that's the final mission

my truck I want to swap is a 86 2wd auto 4spd 22re.

I was wondering how difficult it would be to remove the 4x4 and prep the truck to make it 2wd and I would love to keep the 5spd manual.

im wondering if its worth getting the 3l and putting a turbo on it or just getting the 2lte. which would be more feasible for the application I want?

the Toyota motorhome with the 22re engine runs perfectly fine and is not a power house but can move around fine and does top 65-75. SO LETS NOT ARGUE ABOUT POWER AND TORQUE. if I can get the diesel to be as strong as the 22re then im perfectly fine.

thanks for the input any critics is encouraged im not a mechanic my step pops is and I lack the knowledge Im just tryin to figure out the problems hell face and have the questions answered for him once we begin this project

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Buy a 2wd truck and save yourself a lot of issues. removing the 4x4 drive system is probably more difficult than going the other way. Sounds like you need a couple of donor trucks to make what you want.

sandro88l

your right but the problem is I after a couple years looking ive only ever seen them 4x4/awd manual between 84-86 here in the states for cheap. on craigslist


maybe ill get the 3l with the manual 2wd tranny. I saw it go for 2500-3000 on ebay already here in the states.

my belief is having a donor diesel truck of the same model as my motorhome will make this project a lot easier plus on the up side the work can be done patiently and calmly while im using up the long life the 22re motor has

another concern I was thinking now is my motorhome is a Toyota truck dually 1 ton rear axle. is it also built on the extended cab chassis? does it matter?


any input as always greatly appreciated

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The only duallys I have seen have been motor homes and U-haul like chasis trucks. Those frame are considerably longer. I am guessing the gear ratio is going to be 3.90, maybe this will help. Not sure how hard it would be to swap gears and if they are interchangeable from 2 wheel to 4 wheel.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I actually have a one of those creatures, a 1 ton 5 lug rear axle but with only one wheel. Bizarre the way it necks down the housing.

Contact pyrojoe22 (this board)who is making diesel conversion kits. He does have plates for R150 and w56 transmissions. Some people have already used his kits. Give it a look see.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am just curious and dont know but wonder if it is just a matter of getting the dual rims that you could convert that axle to a dually? There is a dually camper in the yards where I live and will take a look at it next time I am there.

sandro88l

Sandro L, on 22 May 2015 - 12:40 AM, said:jdemaris said
Why are you seeking a 4WD diesel truck if you don't want 4WD? Also - I don't think there is any such thing as a "2WD" transfercase. You just want a transmission made for a 2WD truck. The W56 that is cited in all that info you posted is the bolt-in choice for gas or diesel trucks from the late 70s to early 80s. Note it has a very high 1st gear and would likely be miserable in a heavy motor home unless you change the rear-axle ratio. The four speed manual transmissions that came OEM in 70s and early 80s motorhomes have a lower 1st gear and are more "user freindly" in a heavy motorhome with a 4.10 or 4.11 to 1 rear-axle ratio.

sandro88l

This is the truck/motorhome btw




dining turns into single bed. bathroom and shower in the back. couch turns into a twin and over the cab is another twin. fridge and freezer 4 burner stove and oven a/c running water ect.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I wonder myself, I keep just due to the novelty of it. I wonder if the dually's had longer wheel studs? Would a kind of mad max thing to have a dually 4runner.

megan1141

Did you ever go through with the swap? I'm looking into doing the same here soon and am trying to find some more info. Thanks!