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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 56
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Spring Shackle Bolt HELP!!!!
I am having a hell of a time getting the from spring shackle bolt out on my 88 4Runner. I got the right spring removed already and the left is ready to come out but I CANNOT get the front bolt to come out.
I have hammered on it, impact gun, breaker bar, i can feel it snap with the breaker bar. It feels spongy and then it snaps once each time i put the breaker bar to it. But the son of a bitch won't come out!!! I need this thing out today so I can go and get my springs re-arched and an extra leaf added. HELP!!!!! p.s. the nut is off the bolt, the bolt just won't come out of its hole. The bolt is turning though
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88 4Runner 85 VW Scirocco Last edited by 4RunnerFreedom : 08-26-2008 at 06:36 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Waterloo, Ia
Posts: 212
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Spray it down with some PB Blaster and let it sit a while or if you have new bushings you could try and heat it up as well....
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My Mind Never Stops! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,401
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I would cut it out...
ues a sawzall, grinder or hacksaw if you have power tools its a 30 second job
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 56
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looks like a specialty bolt though. i don't want to wait 2-3 days for the dealer to order one in
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88 4Runner 85 VW Scirocco |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,401
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Quote:
Then torch it out (the bushing) and then u can (maybe) reuse the bolt... I can tell ya that er is seized to the rubber on the bushing....banging on it with a hammer/impact/whatever wont do a thing
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 276
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had the same problem, and PB blaster and patients is the best policy. So I cut mine out, but later I realized the soaking and waiting can be a little faster than ordering parts.
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Tom H Mt Vernon, MO chief designer of the oxy-moron (head moron reporting) http://www.yotatech.com/f151/project-oxy-moron-151018/ |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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i had to cut mine out when the bolt stripped on me. im sure its not a specialty bolt, try your local home depot, lowes, ace hardware, whatever
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-David 2000 Taco TRD Access Cab v6 | 5spd | 33" BFG A/Ts | 33" PC Mud Terrains | OME 882's | Bilstein HD struts front | Rancho shocks rear | Chevy 63" leaf spring swap | Custom sliders | Custom front bumper |3" BL | U-Bolt flip | Flowmaster exhaust | Kenwood Speakers | Grey Wire Mod | Aux. Reverse Lights | Deckplate Mod | Lots of lights Pictures |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 6,255
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What is probably going on is that the shackle pin has rusted inside to the bushing. That is there is a big lump or rust+rubber on the pin in the center of the bushing. What I found that worked on my '85 was to sit the spring on it's side and soak with penetrating oil (petroleum-base to soften the rubber) and then twist the shackle and let it sit for a while then repeat. Took about a half a day to soak enough oil in there to soften the rubber enough to allow the enlarged section of the pin to come out of the bushing, which happened when twisting the shackle and using a pry bar underneath to lever it up. The stock shackle pins are not easily replaced, so it you do have to cut it, plan on buying new shackles. Maybe the spring shop can press the pin out.
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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,401
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Quote:
It does need to be the correct grade and size...no questions
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 6,255
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It is not really a bolt, per se. It has a flat round head that is pressed/welded into the shackle side plate and then has a stepped down shoulder (from 18mm to 14mm diameter) with the threaded portion. Not going to find something like that even at a specialty fastener shop. I doubt even Toyota would see you just that pin, probably need to buy a new shackle or modify the shackle plates to take a regular bolt.
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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 1,229
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Quote:
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86 Runner, BFG 31's, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, Downey 3" lift rear leaf springs, SDORI ball joint spacers, rear Lockright |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 6,255
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I have some tips on removing the spring hanger bolt (if that is what is being referred to) below (see the 4th Q&A):
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TLCA_Tru...ech.04.01.html
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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: St. Geroge, Utah
Posts: 116
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I just did mine and had the sme problem. I cut the old shakle plate, and the top bolt came right out. The bottom wouldn't budge. I put a big pair of channel locs on the end of the bolt and twisted it around. A ton of rut and crap came out, then I was able to get it to come out.
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Trail Truck: 84 regular cab 85 22r -- streetRV head, 261C cam, 2.5" flowmaster, lock-right in rear, 1" Wabfab BL, IFS brakes, rock sliders, diff breathers, Amsoil, dual cases, front rock lights, tube bumper, 33x12.50 BFG MTs, 213k miles ---Currently: 5.29 prescion gears, cryo'd (just need to get them installed) send money ---Next: Front bumper Link to build-up: http://www.yotatech.com/f115/jmazoso...uildup-137611/ DD: 01 Tundra V8, 3" flowmaster, FIPK, 120K miles |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
Posts: 796
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if it's the spring hanger bolt it's easy to get out. grind both ends of it down till they're flush with the hanger on the frame, and then drive a claw hammer in between the spring and the hanger (to spread it out). you'll see the ground ends of the bolt pull into the hanger and you can force them in and down. took me about 15 minutes to do both sides.
once i cut the old bushing out i measured the bolt and went and bought grade 10 replacements. new poly bushings and you're golden.
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1994 Xtracab pickup, 180,000km 1989 4Runner, 300,000km - sold |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 56
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thanks for all of the tips.
a sawzall and few blades later i have cut the bolt. the springs are now at my local spring shop getting re-arched and an extra leaf added. hopefully they have a new front bushings to press in because my old ones are shot. upon further inspection of the bolt from the side that came apart, it is not a specialty bolt at all, just hardend. I thought it had a special shoulder on it but that is not the case.
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88 4Runner 85 VW Scirocco |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 6,255
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Yep, on the '84 and later trucks, the rear spring hanger bolt is plain since it goes through a sleeve in the bushing and thus does not need the shoulder. A Grade 5 or 8 9/16" bolt will work fine, or 8.8 or 10.9/14mm if you want to stay metric.
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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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