4RunnerFreedom

I am having a hell of a time getting the from spring shackle bolt out on my 88 4Runner. I got the right spring removed already and the left is ready to come out but I CANNOT get the front bolt to come out.

I have hammered on it, impact gun, breaker bar, i can feel it snap with the breaker bar. It feels spongy and then it snaps once each time i put the breaker bar to it. But the son of a bitch won't come out!!! I need this thing out today so I can go and get my springs re-arched and an extra leaf added.

HELP!!!!!


p.s. the nut is off the bolt, the bolt just won't come out of its hole. The bolt is turning though

20twinz

Spray it down with some PB Blaster and let it sit a while or if you have new bushings you could try and heat it up as well....

dirtoyboy

I would cut it out...

ues a sawzall, grinder or hacksaw

if you have power tools its a 30 second job

4RunnerFreedom

looks like a specialty bolt though. i don't want to wait 2-3 days for the dealer to order one in

dirtoyboy

Then torch it out (the bushing) and then u can (maybe) reuse the bolt...

I can tell ya that er is seized to the rubber on the bushing....banging on it with a hammer/impact/whatever wont do a thing

trbizwiz

had the same problem, and PB blaster and patients is the best policy. So I cut mine out, but later I realized the soaking and waiting can be a little faster than ordering parts.

drguitarum2005

i had to cut mine out when the bolt stripped on me. im sure its not a specialty bolt, try your local home depot, lowes, ace hardware, whatever

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

What is probably going on is that the shackle pin has rusted inside to the bushing. That is there is a big lump or rust+rubber on the pin in the center of the bushing. What I found that worked on my '85 was to sit the spring on it's side and soak with penetrating oil (petroleum-base to soften the rubber) and then twist the shackle and let it sit for a while then repeat. Took about a half a day to soak enough oil in there to soften the rubber enough to allow the enlarged section of the pin to come out of the bushing, which happened when twisting the shackle and using a pry bar underneath to lever it up. The stock shackle pins are not easily replaced, so it you do have to cut it, plan on buying new shackles. Maybe the spring shop can press the pin out.

dirtoyboy

well they are somewhat of a specialty bolt.....your entire truck is riding on that bolt.......if it fails...so does your truck...

It does need to be the correct grade and size...no questions

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

It is not really a bolt, per se. It has a flat round head that is pressed/welded into the shackle side plate and then has a stepped down shoulder (from 18mm to 14mm diameter) with the threaded portion. Not going to find something like that even at a specialty fastener shop. I doubt even Toyota would see you just that pin, probably need to buy a new shackle or modify the shackle plates to take a regular bolt.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

I think he might be talking about the front hanger bolt frome his descriptio of "front bolt". How about the old c-clamp and deep socket to press it out trick? Definately lets get clear on what we're working on here.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I have some tips on removing the spring hanger bolt (if that is what is being referred to) below (see the 4th Q&A):
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TLCA_Tru...ech.04.01.html

jmazoso

I just did mine and had the sme problem. I cut the old shakle plate, and the top bolt came right out. The bottom wouldn't budge. I put a big pair of channel locs on the end of the bolt and twisted it around. A ton of rut and crap came out, then I was able to get it to come out.

isaac338

if it's the spring hanger bolt it's easy to get out. grind both ends of it down till they're flush with the hanger on the frame, and then drive a claw hammer in between the spring and the hanger (to spread it out). you'll see the ground ends of the bolt pull into the hanger and you can force them in and down. took me about 15 minutes to do both sides.

once i cut the old bushing out i measured the bolt and went and bought grade 10 replacements. new poly bushings and you're golden.

4RunnerFreedom

thanks for all of the tips.

a sawzall and few blades later i have cut the bolt. the springs are now at my local spring shop getting re-arched and an extra leaf added. hopefully they have a new front bushings to press in because my old ones are shot.


upon further inspection of the bolt from the side that came apart, it is not a specialty bolt at all, just hardend. I thought it had a special shoulder on it but that is not the case.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yep, on the '84 and later trucks, the rear spring hanger bolt is plain since it goes through a sleeve in the bushing and thus does not need the shoulder. A Grade 5 or 8 9/16" bolt will work fine, or 8.8 or 10.9/14mm if you want to stay metric.

4RunnerFreedom

i couldn't find a 14mm that was long enough in 10.9 so i went 9/16 grade 8