84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

saggy springs on an 84 pickup

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Old 12-14-2007, 11:58 AM
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saggy springs on an 84 pickup

So, this has been discussed to death a bunch of times, but here it is again.

I recently picked up an 84 pickup. 250k (150k miles)

The springs are all saggy, and need replacement. The truck doesn't sit level, it's leaning to one side. Current tires are BFG a/t something something in a stock-ish size with decent tread.

Intended use: mostly DD but some trail use. Occasional hauling of stuff in the 3-500# range.

Intended tires: 34x9.5 swampers or similar (not purchased yet)

I realize I'll have to trim the sheetmetal to fit the tires. The truck is pretty clean, and I'd like to keep the tires inside the wheel wells and keep it stock-ish looking as much as possible, as this is going to be a daily driver, and I don't need a daily heat-score.

Intended mods: rear selectable locker, 4.7 xfer case, regearing, other misc armour etc.

So, what do y'all recommend? I'm not interested in a 'rear up front' swap because the current springs are dead. I just want to buy a set of springs to restore factory height, perhaps with a SMALL lift for low cg and to fit larger tires.

I don't mind relocating spring eyes etc. There's some rust on the frame that needs patching anyways. The chevy/ford rear spring swap sounds interesting, seems like a lot of junkyard cruising. It's wet outside, I don't really wanna crawl around in a junkyard :o

Sorry to

TIA for the tips!

Last edited by 86tuning; 12-14-2007 at 11:59 AM.
Old 12-14-2007, 12:20 PM
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OME suspension kit (shocks, springs, shackles, etc.) and 33" tires.
Old 12-14-2007, 01:03 PM
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You'll need around 4" of lift to fit those tires, I had rubbing issues with 33x9.50 BFGs with a 3.5" lift on my '85:


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml

Could probably do a Superlift Soft Ride 4" kit or something like that. And don't discount sagging rear springs up front, I am running the ones off my '85 along with a worn out set from an '83 and they work awesome:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...II.shtml#Front

Rather than "sagging" I prefer to call them "already broken in"
Old 12-14-2007, 11:29 PM
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I think you're right about the 4" and that's about what I got when I put the OME kit on. I am sure it is quite a bit more than their advertised 2.5". In fact, I had to install a Procomp drop draglink in order to make my draglink clear the ubolts (even though I used OME "special" flattened Ubolts).

It's possible that I could have rubbing issues with 33's but you can see from this photo that it doesn't look like an additional 1" on the diameter would be a major problem. I installed heavy springs up front with mediums in the rear, firm shocks all around. That's an ARB bull bar with Warn 8000 on the front. Unloaded in the rear.
Attached Thumbnails saggy springs on an 84 pickup-side-view-9-07-small.jpg  
Old 12-15-2007, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 86tuning
I realize I'll have to trim the sheetmetal to fit the tires.

F that! That'll look tacky as Hell unless you're going to be a pro-rock crawler lookin dude. I understand you want to kee the "stockness", but for 33's you might as well go with some lift. You don't have to be out of control about it, just enough to do the job. That way you won't have humungo space between the fender well and tire.

Sorry for the "F that." My favorite part about the 84-88 generation are the fenders ... totally 80's.
Old 12-20-2007, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 86tuning
The springs are all saggy, and need replacement. The truck doesn't sit level, it's leaning to one side.

Well the news is that the reason for the above isn't just the flat front springs, but rather a rusty frame and detached left rear spring eye mount.

Funnay things happen when you buy a truck sight unseen and get it towed because the steering seperated (draglink) on the previous owner and scared the $!@! out of him.

So, I get the thing towed here and ignore it for a week because it's pouring rain outside (some wet snow) and I don't feel like working in the freezing rain, and because it's not driveable (and therefore I don't feel like pushing it inside).

When the rain lets up one afternoon, I drag out the propane heater, jack 'er up and pull the LF tire off, and repair the draglink. After that, I drive it inside to do an 'after purchase inspection' and crawl underneath and inspect the frame, etc.

It's rotted out a fair bit and will need a LOT of welding. The fuel-tank crossmember is dust. The left spring mount is not attached to anything, the frame is missing in that area. The right spring mount is still secure, for now. I guess the PO must've used the truck to pull a boat out of the ocean a few times

Good thing I know a guy who welds for a living

The truck is pretty clean
Haha... on closer inspection, only the exterior sheetmetal is 'fairly clean' and the rest of the truck needs a lot of work. At least the price was good.


Thanks everyone for all the suggestions! So far, it looks like I'm just going to repair the frame and drive it before any lifts or tires. I'll prolly stick a locker in the front very soon though. It also needs a clutch, so that's a good excuse for some 4.7 transfer gears and a nice high clearance crossmember

Last edited by 86tuning; 12-20-2007 at 11:27 PM.
Old 12-21-2007, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 86tuning
Well the news is that the reason for the above isn't just the flat front springs, but rather a rusty frame and detached left rear spring eye mount.

Funnay things happen when you buy a truck sight unseen and get it towed because the steering seperated (draglink) on the previous owner and scared the $!@! out of him.

So, I get the thing towed here and ignore it for a week because it's pouring rain outside (some wet snow) and I don't feel like working in the freezing rain, and because it's not driveable (and therefore I don't feel like pushing it inside).

When the rain lets up one afternoon, I drag out the propane heater, jack 'er up and pull the LF tire off, and repair the draglink. After that, I drive it inside to do an 'after purchase inspection' and crawl underneath and inspect the frame, etc.

It's rotted out a fair bit and will need a LOT of welding. The fuel-tank crossmember is dust. The left spring mount is not attached to anything, the frame is missing in that area. The right spring mount is still secure, for now. I guess the PO must've used the truck to pull a boat out of the ocean a few times

Good thing I know a guy who welds for a living



Haha... on closer inspection, only the exterior sheetmetal is 'fairly clean' and the rest of the truck needs a lot of work. At least the price was good.


Thanks everyone for all the suggestions! So far, it looks like I'm just going to repair the frame and drive it before any lifts or tires. I'll prolly stick a locker in the front very soon though. It also needs a clutch, so that's a good excuse for some 4.7 transfer gears and a nice high clearance crossmember
you might be better off just finding a whole new frame, saves time, you could even prep and paint the new frame while its off

just my .02
Old 12-21-2007, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 85_yota
you might be better off just finding a whole new frame, saves time, you could even prep and paint the new frame while its off

just my .02

Perhaps. Hopefully things won't get out of hand, or I'll end up with a truggy

For now, simply replacing the fuel tank crossmember like the 4xInnovations one ($35) plus a few pieces of 1/8" plate or some 14 ga sheet and it should be safe for some moderate wheeling.

The temptation is to spend too much at a time. Right now, the rear bumper is some diamond plate step bumper that hangs down really low. Shopping for a bumper. If I don't see something I like for the price I like, I may fab one up.

Marlin's hilux bumper is tempting me right now. As is the 4xInnovations transmission crossmember, amongst other stuff.

Oh well. At least the thing steers now. It will be on jackstands as soon as I pick up some 1/8" plate.
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