New Weber 32/36 DGEV and de-smog, oh so niceeee!

oldgold3vze · 07-20-2009, 12:05 PM

So I got my weber 32/36 last Friday, went home and tore into the package to make sure everything was there, and it was. Also, I got some high altitude jets because I live at 5,000 feet, and wheel around 7,000-8,000 feet. The 2 main jets are located in the bowl, very easy to change, just remove 6 flat-head screws from the top of the carburetor and a small e-clip from the choke linkage and the top half of the carb comes off. The stock jets are 140, I went with 130 for my altitude. The idle jet is even easier to change. It is located on the driver's side of the carb behind a brass flat-head screw with a greenish colored o-ring to seal it. There is no dis assembly of the carb to change this jet, simply remove the screw and you will see the jet connected to the screw. Pull it off and clip on the jet you need, I went from a 150 to a 145.

So easy!!!!!

For the install I decided to remove EVERY unnecessary item, charcoal cans, fuel return lines, EGR, etc. This was easy, but took a long time. I just started removing anything that would not connect to the Weber. I had to make 3 block-off plates, one for the EGR on the back of the passenger side of the head, and 2 for the exhaust manifold where the brass tube thing used to be. I just traced the old gaskets onto some 3/16" flat stock and cut them out with my angle grinder using a cut-off wheel, then drilled mounting holes with the harbor freight drill press, no biggie.

Now my 84 22r runs way better than my 89 EFI 22re, has more power, and sounds great. I recommend the 32/36 weber for anyone living at altitude, especially if your olod aisin carb is giving you trouble.

I'll get some pics tonight or tomorrow.

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camo31"10.50" · 07-20-2009, 12:40 PM

good to here some more great news about weber!!!!!

although i dont live at any high altitude..nor do i plan to..lol..i am still goin with the 32/36 weber..my stock carb is in need of a rebuild..and i can get one on here for $175 BRAND NEW

oldgold3vze · 07-21-2009, 09:24 PM

Here are some pics of the install.

EGR block-off plate

Exhaust pipe block-off plate

I had an EFI exhaust heat shield that does't have that hot air pipe thing on it so I installed that to clean up the overall look.

Fuel pressure regulator st to 3psi. I still need to mount it, but now I have lots of room on the firewall!

oldgold3vze · 07-26-2009, 10:12 PM

Got out for my first real trail run with the new weber. All I can say is that I now have no need to worry about an EFI swap, at least not anytime soon. This thing runs great, and I was able to do parts of trails that I have never done before the weber. I ran a trail that starts around 7,000 ft, and goes as high as almost 10,000 ft, and the jets seem to be spot on. I am now looking forward to pulling and rebuilding my engine knowing how easy this all goes back together.

Travisfab · 08-02-2009, 06:02 PM

I am re-wiring my truck at the moment and had a few questions.

#1 I know this is the electric choke. Can I put it on a switch, if not how should I wire it?

#2 I am not sure what that is

oldgold3vze · 08-02-2009, 10:56 PM

Both items with red arrows pictured above require constant power when the keys are turned on. The unknown part is called the cut off solenoid, and it stops the engine from burnin off the gas in the float bowl once you turn the truck off. Just make sure both those connections have power and you'll be fine. You should be able to use wires from the stock choke wiring harness, that's what I did.

4banginRunner · 08-03-2009, 03:44 AM

Is the fuel pressure regulator needed when going from the aisin to weber? I'm only pumping at 4-5psi now with my electric pump.

oldgold3vze · 08-03-2009, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4banginRunner

Is the fuel pressure regulator needed when going from the aisin to weber? I'm only pumping at 4-5psi now with my electric pump.

Everywhere I've read, and everyone I've talked to has told me that the Weber needs a max of 3.5 psi, and some will even run theirs as low as 1.5 psi. I found that with the proper jets I can run smoothly at 3 psi on the street or trail. Sometimes, rarely though, I try 2.5psi on the trails if it starts to get steep to help the typical carburetor flooding issues.

oldgold3vze · 08-03-2009, 07:02 AM

4banginrunner, do you have build threads for your 2 rigs listed in your signature? They look interesting.

Travisfab · 08-03-2009, 09:03 AM

Hmmm, upon the second look at my carb I guess I dont have the #2 connection, I dont even see anything in that area to hook a wire up to.

oldgold3vze · 08-03-2009, 10:24 AM

Is yours a 34/34? I don't think those have the cut off solenoid.

4banginRunner · 08-03-2009, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgold3vze

4banginrunner, do you have build threads for your 2 rigs listed in your signature? They look interesting.

only the 79, and i've been a slackin on that
http://www.yotatech.com/f114/1979-pi...arning-114938/

the 4runner...i should have started one, but was to focused on the 79 haha i haven't updated my "profile page" recent either
http://www.yotatech.com/f77/4banginr...runner-160331/

one of these days i'll get on the ball

Travisfab · 08-03-2009, 08:58 PM

Here is a picture of mine

Travisfab · 08-05-2009, 01:09 PM

Nada, nothing, zilch?

oldgold3vze · 08-05-2009, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travisfab

Nada, nothing, zilch?

Sorry, I'm really not too familiar with Weber Carbs, I just ordered mine and set it up. I would have to say yours is either a 34/34, or a 38/38. If that connector isn't thee, I wouldn't worry about it. Just set it up the best you can, and go for it.

live4soccer7 · 08-13-2009, 12:22 PM

my carb will be here in a few days. I have a couple questions.

What did you do with the fuel return on the pump?

Also is the PCV valve hose going to the EGR plate adapter that you have shown in the picture? It's tough to tell and it doesn't seem real clear in the installation instructions.

Lastly when you connected you vacuum advance which hose did you connect from the diaphram next to the distributor? There are two hoses there and I'm not sure which is which and I wasn't able to find a clear answer in the FSM.

oldgold3vze · 08-13-2009, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by live4soccer7

my carb will be here in a few days. I have a couple questions.

What did you do with the fuel return on the pump?

Caped it with a rubber cap.

Quote:

Originally Posted by live4soccer7

Also is the PCV valve hose going to the EGR plate adapter that you have shown in the picture? It's tough to tell and it doesn't seem real clear in the installation instructions.

Yes, but I have heard of people plugging the egr plate on the manifold and replacing the PCV valve with a breather/filter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by live4soccer7

Lastly when you connected you vacuum advance which hose did you connect from the diaphram next to the distributor? There are two hoses there and I'm not sure which is which and I wasn't able to find a clear answer in the FSM.

I too never found a clear answer on this question. I have found no difference between the two, but I'm sure one of them is the "correct" one, I just can't tell you which one it is.

One more thing I should add to this install thread is that if you switch the fuel inlet hose, like I did, you also need to rotate the small filter found between the 2 optional inlet ports. I just now found about this filter, and may have to replace my jets due to them clogging up. Oh well, live and learn, right...

live4soccer7 · 08-17-2009, 05:11 PM

I'm not quite sure which small filter you are referring to. Was it originally on the fuel inlet hose and you removed the entire hose and no small filter now, but you do need one? I'm not at my truck now so I can't really look.

oldgold3vze · 08-17-2009, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by live4soccer7

I'm not quite sure which small filter you are referring to. Was it originally on the fuel inlet hose and you removed the entire hose and no small filter now, but you do need one? I'm not at my truck now so I can't really look.

Never mind that. I pulled the filter and it was the same on both sides, so there was no way to turn it. Must have been an older carburetor, or a slightly different design.

live4soccer7 · 08-18-2009, 07:20 PM

how'd you hook up the throttle section on the carb? Pics would be great. I'm tryin to install it right now and have to get it done before the nights done. thanks

live4soccer7 · 08-18-2009, 09:22 PM

there was a piece i didn't see. All is good. I'm sure I may have a question or two about some hoses etc.... I'm removing all the unnecessary stuff right now, have the adapter plates etc... on. I would take some pics but I have to have this thing running tomorrow and it's gettin late.

oldgold3vze · 08-18-2009, 09:52 PM

It's not too hard. The only hose you really should have is from the distributor to the carburetor. As for the linkage, you need to remove part of the linkage that comes on the carburetor and replace it with the arm designed for the 22r. I used a combination of the supplied bolts, and some stock mounting bolts for the linkage due to my truck being a 4wd and needing to be spaced up. The instructions and a little problem solving will help out a lot. I had mine running in an evening, and I was working in the dark with a head lamp, so you can do it!

live4soccer7 · 08-18-2009, 10:30 PM

yeah, that's what i did. combined everything i had to make the throttle work right. I'm making some block off plates for the egr stuff right now. Just finishing that up. then it's time to put the carb on and see what I can find to hookup and what doesn't need to be there and what needs to be plugged etc. what did you do with the unit that is on the intake manifold directly below the electric choke on the new carb?

I see on yours it's not there anymore, but I still have that thing there with wires going to it etc...

live4soccer7 · 08-19-2009, 09:12 AM

Well, here are my unknowns. This is what I have left in the install and it will be ready to start.

What do I do with this item? There is an open hose on the other end of the hose that the arrow is pointing to.

This is just a pic I took and put an arrow/box to explain what I did. I'm pretty sure this is alright. I took the brass fittings where the fuel inlet is and the one on the other side and switched them to opposite sides. This is the finished result (fuel was on the other side). If this is not ok speak up, but it seems they both feed right into the same spot.

I know oldgold3vze touched on this, but does anyone know which vacuum line should be hooked up to the carb? Also the one that isn't hooked up to the carb, should it be plugged?

What in the world do I do with this thing? I see oldgold3vze doesn't seem to have it on his anymore (or maybe it was never there)?

Lastly, what in the heck do I do with these two items? The bluish thing and the part coming out of the intake?

There is also one more component that I'm unsure of. It's a canister on the passenger side toward the very front of the vehicle, it's below the level of the battery. I don't have a pic at this time, but I can get one this evening.

Thanks for any help. I can post up final pics and everything that I did and add it to this thread for references when I'm finished.

live4soccer7 · 08-20-2009, 08:23 PM

can anyone help? This is the last of what I have to do before I can start it up again.

07-20-2009, 12:40 PM	#2 (permalink)
camo31"10.50" Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Vian, OK Posts: 2,064	good to here some more great news about weber!!!!! although i dont live at any high altitude..nor do i plan to..lol..i am still goin with the 32/36 weber..my stock carb is in need of a rebuild..and i can get one on here for $175 BRAND NEW __________________ FOR SALE 1986 Ext. Cab 4x4, rebuilt 22R, 5spd, 31x10.50 X-Terrains FOR SALE 1992 SR5 FO RUNNA V6, 5 speed, 4in. trail-master lift, 33x12.50 BFG muds, 4.56 gears!!! and an IMMACULATE interior..yes..you should be jealous "Its still a toyota man.. Dont deprive it of its capabilities.." "If you can read english, Thank a teacher...If you can speak it, Thank a soldier!!" Kelli Ruark-2009

07-21-2009, 09:24 PM	#3 (permalink)
oldgold3vze Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Collins, CO Posts: 313	Here are some pics of the install. EGR block-off plate Exhaust pipe block-off plate I had an EFI exhaust heat shield that does't have that hot air pipe thing on it so I installed that to clean up the overall look. Fuel pressure regulator st to 3psi. I still need to mount it, but now I have lots of room on the firewall! __________________ -1984 reg. cab truggy. I HATE SHEET METAL ON TRAIL RIGS!!!! duals, locked f/r 5.29s, hysteer, 63s and RUF springs, 34 x 10.50 Swampers, 1" master, V-6 calipers, dove nosed & street legal (thanks Colorado) -1988 4Runner, daily driver, Downey intake, Headers, rear AAL, Stock, and staying that way! (maybe) Last edited by oldgold3vze; 07-21-2009 at 09:27 PM.

07-26-2009, 10:12 PM	#4 (permalink)
oldgold3vze Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Collins, CO Posts: 313	Got out for my first real trail run with the new weber. All I can say is that I now have no need to worry about an EFI swap, at least not anytime soon. This thing runs great, and I was able to do parts of trails that I have never done before the weber. I ran a trail that starts around 7,000 ft, and goes as high as almost 10,000 ft, and the jets seem to be spot on. I am now looking forward to pulling and rebuilding my engine knowing how easy this all goes back together. __________________ -1984 reg. cab truggy. I HATE SHEET METAL ON TRAIL RIGS!!!! duals, locked f/r 5.29s, hysteer, 63s and RUF springs, 34 x 10.50 Swampers, 1" master, V-6 calipers, dove nosed & street legal (thanks Colorado) -1988 4Runner, daily driver, Downey intake, Headers, rear AAL, Stock, and staying that way! (maybe)

08-02-2009, 06:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
Travisfab Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 236	I am re-wiring my truck at the moment and had a few questions. #1 I know this is the electric choke. Can I put it on a switch, if not how should I wire it? #2 I am not sure what that is __________________ American Trailers

08-02-2009, 10:56 PM	#6 (permalink)
oldgold3vze Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Collins, CO Posts: 313	Both items with red arrows pictured above require constant power when the keys are turned on. The unknown part is called the cut off solenoid, and it stops the engine from burnin off the gas in the float bowl once you turn the truck off. Just make sure both those connections have power and you'll be fine. You should be able to use wires from the stock choke wiring harness, that's what I did. __________________ -1984 reg. cab truggy. I HATE SHEET METAL ON TRAIL RIGS!!!! duals, locked f/r 5.29s, hysteer, 63s and RUF springs, 34 x 10.50 Swampers, 1" master, V-6 calipers, dove nosed & street legal (thanks Colorado) -1988 4Runner, daily driver, Downey intake, Headers, rear AAL, Stock, and staying that way! (maybe)

08-03-2009, 03:44 AM	#7 (permalink)
4banginRunner Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: With all the Ho Butts in Mount Carmel, PA Posts: 1,706	Is the fuel pressure regulator needed when going from the aisin to weber? I'm only pumping at 4-5psi now with my electric pump. __________________ 87 Toyota 4Runner 22RE--5spd swap (W56)--4.56s--BJ spacers--Pro Comp Stage II 4" bracket lift--63" Chevys w/2" blocks--40 series--late style steering box swap--BudBuilt Dual Case X-member--V6 calipers--32s--MC rear bumper--SAS parts collecting time... *79 Toyota Longbed 4x4* Frame-off Resto time. *04 GMC Sierra 1500* the DD

08-03-2009, 07:02 AM	#9 (permalink)
oldgold3vze Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Collins, CO Posts: 313	4banginrunner, do you have build threads for your 2 rigs listed in your signature? They look interesting. __________________ -1984 reg. cab truggy. I HATE SHEET METAL ON TRAIL RIGS!!!! duals, locked f/r 5.29s, hysteer, 63s and RUF springs, 34 x 10.50 Swampers, 1" master, V-6 calipers, dove nosed & street legal (thanks Colorado) -1988 4Runner, daily driver, Downey intake, Headers, rear AAL, Stock, and staying that way! (maybe)

08-03-2009, 09:03 AM	#10 (permalink)
Travisfab Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 236	Hmmm, upon the second look at my carb I guess I dont have the #2 connection, I dont even see anything in that area to hook a wire up to. __________________ American Trailers

08-03-2009, 10:24 AM	#11 (permalink)
oldgold3vze Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Collins, CO Posts: 313	Is yours a 34/34? I don't think those have the cut off solenoid. __________________ -1984 reg. cab truggy. I HATE SHEET METAL ON TRAIL RIGS!!!! duals, locked f/r 5.29s, hysteer, 63s and RUF springs, 34 x 10.50 Swampers, 1" master, V-6 calipers, dove nosed & street legal (thanks Colorado) -1988 4Runner, daily driver, Downey intake, Headers, rear AAL, Stock, and staying that way! (maybe)

08-03-2009, 08:58 PM	#13 (permalink)
Travisfab Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 236	Here is a picture of mine __________________ American Trailers

08-05-2009, 01:09 PM	#14 (permalink)
Travisfab Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 236	Nada, nothing, zilch? __________________ American Trailers

08-13-2009, 12:22 PM	#16 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	my carb will be here in a few days. I have a couple questions. What did you do with the fuel return on the pump? Also is the PCV valve hose going to the EGR plate adapter that you have shown in the picture? It's tough to tell and it doesn't seem real clear in the installation instructions. Lastly when you connected you vacuum advance which hose did you connect from the diaphram next to the distributor? There are two hoses there and I'm not sure which is which and I wasn't able to find a clear answer in the FSM.

08-17-2009, 05:11 PM	#18 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	I'm not quite sure which small filter you are referring to. Was it originally on the fuel inlet hose and you removed the entire hose and no small filter now, but you do need one? I'm not at my truck now so I can't really look.

08-18-2009, 07:20 PM	#20 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	how'd you hook up the throttle section on the carb? Pics would be great. I'm tryin to install it right now and have to get it done before the nights done. thanks

08-18-2009, 09:22 PM	#21 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	there was a piece i didn't see. All is good. I'm sure I may have a question or two about some hoses etc.... I'm removing all the unnecessary stuff right now, have the adapter plates etc... on. I would take some pics but I have to have this thing running tomorrow and it's gettin late.

08-18-2009, 09:52 PM	#22 (permalink)
oldgold3vze Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft. Collins, CO Posts: 313	It's not too hard. The only hose you really should have is from the distributor to the carburetor. As for the linkage, you need to remove part of the linkage that comes on the carburetor and replace it with the arm designed for the 22r. I used a combination of the supplied bolts, and some stock mounting bolts for the linkage due to my truck being a 4wd and needing to be spaced up. The instructions and a little problem solving will help out a lot. I had mine running in an evening, and I was working in the dark with a head lamp, so you can do it! __________________ -1984 reg. cab truggy. I HATE SHEET METAL ON TRAIL RIGS!!!! duals, locked f/r 5.29s, hysteer, 63s and RUF springs, 34 x 10.50 Swampers, 1" master, V-6 calipers, dove nosed & street legal (thanks Colorado) -1988 4Runner, daily driver, Downey intake, Headers, rear AAL, Stock, and staying that way! (maybe)

08-18-2009, 10:30 PM	#23 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	yeah, that's what i did. combined everything i had to make the throttle work right. I'm making some block off plates for the egr stuff right now. Just finishing that up. then it's time to put the carb on and see what I can find to hookup and what doesn't need to be there and what needs to be plugged etc. what did you do with the unit that is on the intake manifold directly below the electric choke on the new carb? I see on yours it's not there anymore, but I still have that thing there with wires going to it etc...

08-19-2009, 09:12 AM	#24 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	Well, here are my unknowns. This is what I have left in the install and it will be ready to start. What do I do with this item? There is an open hose on the other end of the hose that the arrow is pointing to. This is just a pic I took and put an arrow/box to explain what I did. I'm pretty sure this is alright. I took the brass fittings where the fuel inlet is and the one on the other side and switched them to opposite sides. This is the finished result (fuel was on the other side). If this is not ok speak up, but it seems they both feed right into the same spot. I know oldgold3vze touched on this, but does anyone know which vacuum line should be hooked up to the carb? Also the one that isn't hooked up to the carb, should it be plugged? What in the world do I do with this thing? I see oldgold3vze doesn't seem to have it on his anymore (or maybe it was never there)? Lastly, what in the heck do I do with these two items? The bluish thing and the part coming out of the intake? There is also one more component that I'm unsure of. It's a canister on the passenger side toward the very front of the vehicle, it's below the level of the battery. I don't have a pic at this time, but I can get one this evening. Thanks for any help. I can post up final pics and everything that I did and add it to this thread for references when I'm finished. Last edited by live4soccer7; 08-19-2009 at 09:14 AM.

08-20-2009, 08:23 PM	#25 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	can anyone help? This is the last of what I have to do before I can start it up again.

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