High Output Alternators - Question About wiring

LUV24BY · 06-13-2007, 12:43 PM

Anyone running a 100, 120 or 140 Amp alternator? If so, did you have to run any heavier gauge wire (10 gauge) off the alternator's post in order for the electrical system in your Toyota to handle and utilize the higher amps? The guy I bought the alternator off of said he had to use 10 Gauge wire to get the full 140 Amps. How much validity is in that statement?

I just put in a 140 Amp alternator I bought used from a guy (said the alternator was only 1 year old) and the brushes look great, however the VOLT gauge on my SR5 cluster shows the volts just above the line on the middle of the gauge.

I took a meter and tested the post on the alternator (read 12.33 Volts) and the battery (showed 12.42 volts), so I know the battery is getting a charge from the alternator.

Is there any tech sheets out there oon the web or that you may have that addresses upgrading the alternator?

I do know one thig for sure, since upgrading the steering to IFS bax, it's a ROYAL PITA to get the alternator out of the truck. I have factory Power Steering, so that kept it from coming out topside. I ended up having to unbolt the radiator and moving it over to make room to squeeze the alternator out!

TIA!

John

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notanymore · 06-13-2007, 01:10 PM

when running shouldnt it be putting out closer to 14 volts? when my alt quit working my volt gauge was in the middle till my truck died. if you would ask me the alt is wither not wired up correctly or it is bad. and yes upgrading your wiring will give you more charging power. i believe its called the big 3 upgrade, do a search for it

ewong · 06-13-2007, 01:15 PM

I disconnected the OEM charge cable and installed a 1/0 welding cable
-- alt to battery
-- battery to starter
-- engine block ground to batt neg

LUV24BY · 06-13-2007, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ewong

I disconnected the OEM charge cable and installed a 1/0 welding cable
-- alt to battery
-- battery to starter
-- engine block ground to batt neg

I think I found a good answer to the charge wire issue:

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html

Though I don't think it's a PM alt, I think it's the same regardless.

Can you completely bypass the stock wiring as you stated ewong? Won't this cause the SR5 volt gauge not to work?

John

LUV24BY · 06-13-2007, 02:44 PM

Thanks Notanymore - I did a search and got that information! It's much appreciated! Perhaps we should add this topic to the FAQ's!

John

WATRD · 06-13-2007, 03:08 PM

I am running a 160 amp in my rig. I have the stock harness in place, then an 8 gauge running from the external post directly to the battery.

LUV24BY · 06-13-2007, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WATRD

I am running a 160 amp in my rig. I have the stock harness in place, then an 8 gauge running from the external post directly to the battery.

Does your Volt gauge read the same with the HO Alt as it did with the stock alt?

John

WATRD · 06-13-2007, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUV24BY

Does your Volt gauge read the same with the HO Alt as it did with the stock alt?

John

I won't be much help there. My Tacoma has only an idiot light, no volt gauge.

EvaMonky · 06-13-2007, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUV24BY

Thanks Notanymore - I did a search and got that information! It's much appreciated! Perhaps we should add this topic to the FAQ's!

John

It sounds like you did the voltage test wrong. My stock alt. runs 15-16 volts running.

Plus the voltage you posted shows the battery having more volts than the alt. I don't think an alt can charge a battery unless it's producing more voltage than the battery.

And running heavier gauge wire is ALWAYS a good idea when your talking about transfering power heh. I've got 4 gauge wiring from my battery to starter, ground, and soon my alt.

Elvota · 06-13-2007, 05:35 PM

I got a 150A alternator from these guys:
http://www.mralternator.com/main.shtml

I retained the factory wiring, but added an aux wiring kit from Summit. I believe it was a 2 or 4 gauge wire with inline fuse. This heavy gauge wire runs from the alt to the positive battery post. You can take a look at it on the next run we do if you like, although I ma sure you'd like to get this figured out sooner.

The Summit part number was SUM-890025-1 and their description "ALT WIRE KIT 80-150 AMP". I can no longer find it on their website, but if you call they might be able to help you out. It was $19.95 on 12/05.

You of course can get a heavy gauge wire from NAPA or local welding supply by the foot. You'll have to figure out your inline fuse holder on your own if you go that way.

LUV24BY · 06-13-2007, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvaMonky

It sounds like you did the voltage test wrong. My stock alt. runs 15-16 volts running.

Plus the voltage you posted shows the battery having more volts than the alt. I don't think an alt can charge a battery unless it's producing more voltage than the battery.

And running heavier gauge wire is ALWAYS a good idea when your talking about transfering power heh. I've got 4 gauge wiring from my battery to starter, ground, and soon my alt.

It was late when I checked this stuff. I don't recall which was which honestly! :rolleyes:

I will check again tonight and re-post the #'s!

LUV24BY · 06-13-2007, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

I got a 150A alternator from these guys:
http://www.mralternator.com/main.shtml

I retained the factory wiring, but added an aux wiring kit from Summit. I believe it was a 2 or 4 gauge wire with inline fuse. This heavy gauge wire runs from the alt to the positive battery post. You can take a look at it on the next run we do if you like, although I ma sure you'd like to get this figured out sooner.

The Summit part number was SUM-890025-1 and their description "ALT WIRE KIT 80-150 AMP". I can no longer find it on their website, but if you call they might be able to help you out. It was $19.95 on 12/05.

You of course can get a heavy gauge wire from NAPA or local welding supply by the foot. You'll have to figure out your inline fuse holder on your own if you go that way.

Yeah, even if I get it figured out Elvota - I would still like to see your setup on how you got things run. Did you just run a looped connector to the bolt on the positive cable?

John

Elvota · 06-13-2007, 07:47 PM

I am a bit confused on "looped connector"... but my Summit wire had a factory crimped end for the bolt to pass through.

LUV24BY · 06-13-2007, 08:03 PM

Yeah, I have that tendancy to confuse people!

Looped Connector = Eyelet connector with the barrel on the end to crimp.

I tested the ALT, it appears to be just holding. It's 12.25 @ the post of the ALT and 12.46 @ the terminal on the battery. Under load (best i can do, lights on, stereo on and at 2500RPM) the ALT meters 12.14 and 12.31 @ the battery.

John

Elvota · 06-13-2007, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUV24BY

Looped Connector = Eyelet connector with the barrel on the end to crimp.

Actually... that's more than likely the correct term... I just wasn't familiar with it. And that is exactly what I have.

LUV24BY · 06-14-2007, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

Actually... that's more than likely the correct term... I just wasn't familiar with it. And that is exactly what I have.

Is it connected to the post on the battery or the bolt that tightens the terminal to the battery?

John

Elvota · 06-14-2007, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUV24BY

Is it connected to the post on the battery or the bolt that tightens the terminal to the battery?

John

Bolt on the battery terminal, bolt on the alt.

06-13-2007, 01:10 PM	#2 (permalink)
notanymore Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Wenatchee WA Posts: 969	when running shouldnt it be putting out closer to 14 volts? when my alt quit working my volt gauge was in the middle till my truck died. if you would ask me the alt is wither not wired up correctly or it is bad. and yes upgrading your wiring will give you more charging power. i believe its called the big 3 upgrade, do a search for it __________________ my truck: 1987 pickup xtra cab sr5 22re 5 speed 4wd, 31x10.5's eb 261c cam, lce header, 2.25 exhaust 120amp Mr. Alternator rear lockrite, optima yellow top xrc8 winch & AOR bumper coming soon my bikes: 1980 Honda CX500-1997 honda cbr F3

06-13-2007, 02:44 PM	#5 (permalink)
LUV24BY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 444	Thanks Notanymore - I did a search and got that information! It's much appreciated! Perhaps we should add this topic to the FAQ's! John __________________ My Junk: 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX, 22RE, 5 SPD Mods: 4" TG 47" Front Springs w/ 5" Shackles, 3.5" Super Lift Rear Springs w/ 6" Shackles, TG Cross Over, TG Shock Hoops, 15x8 "Outlaw I" rims, 33x12.50 R15 BFG MT KM's, Doestch Tech 12" DT3000 shocks (4 corners), Custom Front Driveshaft w/ 12" Slip yoke & CV joint ground for higher angle, Toyota Fiberglass front fenders, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, SR5 Cluster My World: My 1985 4Runner's Profile My Car Domain Page.

06-13-2007, 03:08 PM	#6 (permalink)
WATRD Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Duvall, WA Posts: 5,109	I am running a 160 amp in my rig. I have the stock harness in place, then an 8 gauge running from the external post directly to the battery. __________________ -Rob Slightly Modified 2001 Tacoma - WATRD.COM WATTORA is becoming NWToys! Tread Lightly! certified Tread Trainer Search 100+ Toyota tech sites, including this one: Toyota Tech Search

06-13-2007, 05:35 PM	#10 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,442	I got a 150A alternator from these guys: http://www.mralternator.com/main.shtml I retained the factory wiring, but added an aux wiring kit from Summit. I believe it was a 2 or 4 gauge wire with inline fuse. This heavy gauge wire runs from the alt to the positive battery post. You can take a look at it on the next run we do if you like, although I ma sure you'd like to get this figured out sooner. The Summit part number was SUM-890025-1 and their description "ALT WIRE KIT 80-150 AMP". I can no longer find it on their website, but if you call they might be able to help you out. It was $19.95 on 12/05. You of course can get a heavy gauge wire from NAPA or local welding supply by the foot. You'll have to figure out your inline fuse holder on your own if you go that way. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

06-13-2007, 07:47 PM	#13 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,442	I am a bit confused on "looped connector"... but my Summit wire had a factory crimped end for the bolt to pass through. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

06-13-2007, 01:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
ewong Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Philly PA Posts: 1,290	I disconnected the OEM charge cable and installed a 1/0 welding cable -- alt to battery -- battery to starter -- engine block ground to batt neg

06-13-2007, 08:03 PM	#14 (permalink)
LUV24BY Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 444	Yeah, I have that tendancy to confuse people! Looped Connector = Eyelet connector with the barrel on the end to crimp. I tested the ALT, it appears to be just holding. It's 12.25 @ the post of the ALT and 12.46 @ the terminal on the battery. Under load (best i can do, lights on, stereo on and at 2500RPM) the ALT meters 12.14 and 12.31 @ the battery. John __________________ My Junk: 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX, 22RE, 5 SPD Mods: 4" TG 47" Front Springs w/ 5" Shackles, 3.5" Super Lift Rear Springs w/ 6" Shackles, TG Cross Over, TG Shock Hoops, 15x8 "Outlaw I" rims, 33x12.50 R15 BFG MT KM's, Doestch Tech 12" DT3000 shocks (4 corners), Custom Front Driveshaft w/ 12" Slip yoke & CV joint ground for higher angle, Toyota Fiberglass front fenders, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, SR5 Cluster My World: My 1985 4Runner's Profile My Car Domain Page.

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