acicomp

I am planning on installing AC on my 84 Pickup with a 22R. Mine has no air installed at all. I have located a donor vehicle and the price for the complete AC is almost too good to pass by. The donor vehicle is an 87 4Runner with a 22RE.

Does anyone know if or what the variations are between the two AC systems? Is there a difference between carb and FI setups for the AC? I have searched on here and couldn't find any information on this. If it has been discussed before, maybe I just missed it somehow.

Thanks

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Well they both run R12 which is going to be really expensive as they don't make it anymore and unless you have a epa certification card, you cannot buy it. You might want to look into retrofitting an R134 system which is the stuff you can go and buy at the store to fill it up. Other than that, I cant see why it wouldnt interchange.

acicomp

I couldn't find it, but I thought I had read somewhere that the compressor bracket and wiring was different between the 22R and 22RE. I'll keep searching...

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I think there is a difference. I once tried to sell my old A/C ('85/22RE) compressor to a guy with an '85/22R and it did not fit the 22R bracket on his engine, so had to take it back. But maybe if you had the 22RE brackets and a, it may fit the 22R engine.

And on the 22RE, you have a vacuum switching valve that the A/C computer turns on to bump up the engine idle speed, not sure how that is done on the 22R.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Exactly the problem my buddy w/an 84 4wd was having. He split vacuum somehow and ran the switching valve on top of the valve cover to idle up. I'll try to reach him, but not sure he'll remember, lol(been 15 years, ....and he 'smokes' too much, if you kwimean? haha)

acicomp

It's looking like they are different enough that I may just keep up the search for the 22R setup.

Thanks!

abeD85flatbed

I put AC onto my 22R from a 22RE and it bolted up just fine. In my case the bracket to hold the compressor bolted low on the passenger side of the block and incorporated the idler pulley into it. I had to remove several bolts on the chain case to mount it, but it went in fine. the larger problem is going to be mounting everything else. If you find the right donor vehicle even the wiring under the dash is plug and play, but you will still have to run a lead wire out to the compressor as the stock wire terminates somewhere inside the harness on vehicles that were not originally equipped. Retrofitting to the R134 refrigerant is a easy as screwing on two fittings. I would suggest you have a shop charge the system though as they will be able to check for leaks as well as create a vacuum in the system to allow for more refrigerant.

acicomp

Thanks abeD85... What did you do with the vac and idle up? There was a post earlier that there were some differences there with the 22R and 22RE.

abeD85flatbed

That is the one thing I could never figure out. The vehicle is my trailrig and I just put up with the idle being really low when it was running. Everything else I can help with.

acicomp

After seeing your post, if i can figure out how to retro the idle up, I may go ahead and get the system. Thanks!

XtraSlow_XtraCab

The A/C idle up diaphragm is located on the passenger "back corner" of the 22R Aisin carburetor. the retracting arm conencts to the throttle cam on the rear of the carburetor. There is a stop screw that allows adjustment of the idle-up RPM. It took me a long time to find it in the FSM, because I didn't look under the AC section.

Anyway, I believe its hooked up to an electric "Vacuum Switching Valve" on the passenger side fender and the feed line of the electric VSV is hooked up to a port on the intake manifold right below the passenger side of the carburetor. A drawing of this component is at the end of the A/C section of the 1985 FSM... available in my signature. The electric valve can be powered either:

A. by the A/C switch in the climate control area.

B. The positive lead to the compressor.

So worst case scenario, you'l have to make a trip to the junkyard for a diaphragm and vacuum switch. All gravy. Those should both be on the same circuit... its just a matter of where you want to splice your wire in. If you decide to go with the 22RE setup, I will try and assist you as much as possible as well as others here

acicomp

Nothing like the world of Yotatech and the great help that this community is. I think I'll go ahead and get the setup so I can get ready to get cold in my cab.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

R134 systems also use different oil for lubrication then R12 systems and the R134 is made up of smaller molecules so it will "seep" out of the system. Also if the system is not put into vacuum you will have moisture in the system which is not a good thing. Any reputable shop will not fill an R12 system with R134 because it will contaminate the machine that they use and is against federal law and huge fines for not only the shop but also the tech.

acicomp

I'll have to double check once I get the system to make sure that it wasn't already changed over to 134 at some point. Either way, I think we can get it to work in the long run.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Good luck, and make sure to post pics.

acicomp

I will get some pics once I get everything.

The MAN

that isn't really true... where I worked, we used to do retrofits on some cars... in order to do it legally, you must remove R12 from the system using a recovery machine (the only legal method), and then do all your necessary retrofitting work (only legal requirement per EPA are the service ports, they don't care how well the system works due to wrong parts). Once that's done, you fill the system with 134a. However, what's true though is most shops refuse to work on questionable or unknown systems. That is their right and also a legal obligation to prevent cross contamination in their machines. It may take a bit of convincing to let them know that the system is empty, has been retrofitted, and ready to be charged (it helps if you sound like you know what you're talking about to get them on their good side ).

On many cars older than late 80s (some even early 90s) though, you need to change the hoses to a barrier type because as stated, they will leak once you put in 134a.

The best retrofit is always draining as much of the mineral oil as possible, then refilling it with the proper amount of PAG oil. There are at least 3 different viscosities of PAG oil (apparently not common knowledge to many mechanics). You must replace the drier/accumulator with a XH7 or XH9 type one (most of the ones you buy now are this type, it's hard to find an XH5 anymore) as the desiccants are compatible with PAG or ester oil and of course 134a. Complete oil removal isn't necessary nor is flushing. This used to be the belief and common procedure, but it was later found unnecessary. The mineral oil will just be "inert" and just collect at the lowest parts of the system. The mineral oil doesn't mix with 134a, so it won't do anything for lubrication; this is why you need PAG or ester oil. I have done no oil removal in my beater 93 corolla (paid $500 for it), and even with the wrong PAG oil (Toyota calls for PAG 46, but I have 100 in it... because I'm cheap) it works fine. I removed most oil in my 93 previa and filled it with the expensive Denso ND-8 oil (basically a PAG 46) and it blows as cold as when it was new. Both cars had their driers replaced of course.

I do recommend getting a copy of the AC-002-98 TSB... it not only covers specifics of retrofit, it'll give you crucial information such as oil amount and how much 134a to put in. 134a is very picky about having the correct weight, just slightly too much or slightly too little and your system works like crap. This is one of the reasons why retrofits got such a bad rap, because many A/C techs work in their old ways by charging based on pressure alone. This worked fine with R12 because it was quite forgiving, but not anymore!

EDIT: TSB here:
http://www.ccar-greenlink.org/docume...t_ac002t98.pdf
Google is your friend! was not available online a few years ago... had to make many phone calls to get it!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sweet PDF, man! I guess YOU ARE 'The MAN' after all! hahaha.

I'm planning on refilling with R12, as my buddy is still licensed to do so, and gets the R12 from Poland for 15$ a pound(his cost is my cost). I am trying to get my buddy in 'parts' at the stealership to get me ALL the o-rings I'll need to redo my system, ...but I have a question, Mr. MAN, ....

*** If I order a drier from dealerdirectparts.com(best prices I've found on OEM Toy-parts, so far)....could I get them to find me an R12 Friendly Drier? OR, is it best to fish around with aftermarket dealers to find one?***

Thanks,

Mark

The MAN

hard for them to find any specific spec part you want because all they can do is look in the parts catalog... any special parts not listed (there's hundreds of them for all cars, believe me) will come from TSBs or recalls...

I just noticed that the TSB is for 86 and up, so if you have an 85 or older, it's a toss up if you get an OEM drier from the dealer... for 86 and up, get the drier part # specifically listed in the TSB... it is NOT found in the parts catalog! As for refrigerant charge on the 85 or older, use the 80% rule... but more oil than the original spec.... how much oil I'm not sure

like I said already though, most driers are now XH7 or XH9.... they are backwards compatible with the R12 stuff... in otherwords, I doubt anything manufactured recently will still use XH5, even if it's the OEM part... but never assume of course... you know how that old saying goes

one thing you should do to save a LOT of money is to buy denso aftermarket parts.... they sell compressors and driers, at least for my van... I can't imagine they won't have anything for the trucks... they're the same exact thing as what the dealer will sell you except it's a different box! Rock auto sells this stuff and so does other places... There's a link on the densoaftermarket.com site that points to their authorized dealers... some of the prices there are cheaper than rock auto. Denso aftermarket doesn't sell the special retrofit driers though like the TSB shows, but I'm using one on my van now and no problems.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, my rig is an 87 4Runner SR5/4WD, 22RE,.....and if I'm getting you right(not sure what TSB is), you're saying to check my actual drier for a number? Or, have they updated inventory and now they're computers, when they punch in the number I give them, will refer them to a new part # or (retro-graded #) ?

Sorry for highjackin, not really my common practice, hahaha. I'll check into the densoaftermaket.com site, etc., and thanks again, MAN! I just figured that I'd be best suited finding out, from an actual toyota employee, "this is the drier you need if you're gonna run R12" type answer. Just to be clear, ...."backward compatible with R12", .....are you saying that whatever they have WILL work with R12, as well as 134A? Or are you saying I need to do some fishing to be sure I get the right one to run R12? Again, sorry, just like to be 'certain' kind of person, am I! lol.