A few fellow Yotatecher's asked if I would post up a series of pics after I finished this 84 SA knuckle rebuild with new wheel bearings.
So, I am.
The rig is an 84 ext cab 22r. The owner is the original owner and swears he has never done a thing to the rear or front. He bought it in 1985
After I got the rotor and hub out I noticed the bearings were Chinese and the seals were from Napa.
Something strange in this trucks past I presume.
I am sure I missed a few tricks and I am certain I could have done things more efficiently but I did my best and I hope this thread helps someone.
The kit is from Trail Gear it is the knuckle rebuild kit with bearings.
The inner axle seals and cone washers are from Marlin.
The rear brake kit is from Kragen as well as the front reman calipers.
I did not plan on doing a thread on this rebuild and as a result I did not take pictures of the tear down.
The entire job back to front took two days. I had to wait for parts. The overall knuckle rebuild took me around 5 hours. It really is pretty straight forward. The most critical thing is setting the bearing preload, getting the seals and rings in order, and torquing all the nuts to FSM specifications.
As for the lack of pictures here is the tear down. Basically put the truck on jack stands, take off the wheels and tires, brake calipers, hubs, rings, bla bla ... follow the FSM. It is pretty straight forward. Just muster up some confidence and start wrenching things off!
Feel free to berate me to no end...
Here is where I started with the pictures-
Knuckle ball with everything off and awaiting a new life.
and below are the parts being reassembled after I got all of them off.
Rotor being greased where my finger is pointing. A good coating is required. Note the old races, bearings and seals out in the right hand side of the picture.
Bearings being saturated with grease...get it in and out and all around.. like SHE said
Rotors out and new races and bearings in as well as a trip to Napa for a turning.
Oil seal in. I used the old race and a BFH to pound the new seal in.
dust covers painted and ready
Spindles cleaned, birfs locked and loaded.
knuckles cleaned and painted
knuckle ball exposed and blowin in the wind.
Races pounded in with brass drift
Inner axle with old jenky seal out and new beefy Marlin seal in
and just for fun my redneck seal driver to drive it home.
After the new Marlin seals are I felt it was important to put these in at this point. I think it would be pretty hard to do it over the knuckle housing.. SO, I put the rockring, felt, rubber seal and split ring in from back to front IN THAT ORDER
I laid out everything in front of me to make sure things would go smooth
Knuckle housing on with the bearings in BEFORE I put it on.
The bearing is all greased up in the middle of the pic. Note the shims... VERY IMPORTANT. I obsessively wrote down the placement of the shims and I used the old shims to make sure I had the correct preload on the steering.
Knuckle arm on and ready to torque to specs. Make sure to put on the dork bearing on the bottom of the knuckle housing and torque it to specs.
After the knuckle arm is on, cone washers, washers, and nuts all torqued down the greased up birf goes back in.. I had to move the diff flange back and forth to get it to seat in nice and snug.
in and ready to rock...I didn't get a pic but after the birf went in and before the spindle went on I packed the kuckle 3/4 full of grease. I couldn't get a pic of that because my hands were all greasy.
at this point I went behind the knuckle and put all 8 of the 10 mm bolts to tighten up the rockring, felt, rubber seal and split ring seal.
now its time for the knuckle spindle to go in. Put the seal on it first and make sure the little notch on the spindle is pointing up and slip it over the axle. Next the dust shield, seal and gold ring with the 14 mm bolts and washers torqued to spec
Now put the hub housing and rotor on, push it in and put the thrust washer, adjusting nut, lock washer and lock nut on. Make sure to follow the FSM for the proper preload specs on the bearings by torquing the adjusting nut.
Make sure to bend down the tabs when you have set the proper pre load
Now its time for the hub body to go on. Gasket on and hub rebuilt with NEW cone washers and ready to go in and torqued to spec. I also put the snap ring back in on the axle with a pair of snap ring pliers. Its hard to see but its in there.
I rebuilt the hubs as well as a fresh paint job and clear coat
Now the free wheeling hub shiny and new!!
New caliper on and the entire side rebuilt and ready to rock
Wheel and tire on looking purdy!
A shot of the underneath after a 30 mile round trip test drive up the coast...
Only a tear drop leaked on to the tire due to the clean beauty of it all
Rear brakes got a new life while I was waiting for big brown.
and the truck in all its glory lol
and for trivia sake..
What is the deal here? These are a pair of 83 SA hubs. If you look closely one is slightly bigger on the inside than the other. I tried to put these on this 84 SA but I couldn't get the snap ring on on the outer edge of the axle. Are these the right hubs for an 83 or is there something strange going on here??
Time involved with this was around 7 hrs to do the right and left side.
Trail Gear knuckle kit with bearings, Kragen reman calipers w/right side metal break line, pads, rear Kragen drum kit with wheel cylinders, Marlin seals, Marlin cone washers all around, gear oil, grease, break fluid, break cleaner, lunch, advil, beer............Total cost $354.00