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Yes. Tre = tie rod end. Just make sure to count the amount of turns it takes to remove them so you know how far the old ones go on. I also replaced my steering stabilizer and shocks while I was at it.
I'm working on my first SA/Knuckle rebuild. I bought an 85 ex-cab EFI, and the knuckles were leaking, so I knew I needed to do new seals. The bearings and races appear to be in good condition, so I had decided not to replace the wheel bearings. The top/bottom knuckle bearings/races also look good, but they were included with the knuckle set.
Should I take back the knuckle rebuild kit, and just buy what I think I need, or should I just go ahead and replace the knuckle top/bottom bearings as a matter of principle on a 29 year old truck?????
From: I ship from New London Connecticut I PriceMatch
Originally Posted by toyospearo
Thats funny Wabbit because those two hubs came off my 83 SA. I distinctly remember the snap ring having no issue on either side when I pulled them off.
has anyone else put ifs hubs on sfa with snap rings?
The first or second time I did one of these SA rebuilds I did read about the hub and the spring and ball but in all the confusion of the rebuild I sorta forgot about it. As a result when I pulled the dial off the spring sent the ball flying into oblivion. I thought oh well how important can that stupid little ball be? After I got it all back together I turned the hub dial and nothing! I had to order a new spring and ball from Wabfab. That stupid tiny little ball kept my rig in the driveway for 3 days.
Yea it sucks but that thing is absolutely required to make that hub function.
ok now I have taken mine all apart and everything do any of ya'll have a picture or where that spring and ball goes? I have no idea. I need new everything I know my inter seals have been leaking for pass few years lol
Why you have it open I would just replace it all. I would even do the wheel bearings if you pla. On driving it a lot
Totally agree!
&
Totally dedicated fan of the Marlin kit with backing plate eliminator kit, but subbing in the TG Wipers.... 2 yrs nearly of some hard crawling and lots of dd'ing, and not a peep of grease or fluid seepage!
Dirty 30's and ARP studs have held up really well to some hard wheeling and the stuff not even budged a smidgen! ;-)
I did not enjoy rebuilding the front axle but, I had the best help I could get and it is almost done.
Now I have a V-6 diff with a limited slip locker.
I have to wait for the back pain to let up some so I can go finish putting her together so I can move her in to and close the garage door for the night.
Hey man I'm rebuilding a 84 axel for my runner that I'm building and I'm stumped on the shims for the steering knuckle preload. It came half ripped apart without the shims how would I go about figuring out how many to put in the top and bottom?
Just wanted to make a point about shims and bearing preload . When you replace bearings and races on anything where the preload is set by shims , using the old shims does not guarantee correct preload . This is due to differences in bearing manufacture as well as how well you set the race. The smallest bit of debris in the race seat or a burr on the face of the seat , etc will effect preload as will using new bearings in old races. ... it's good practice to check preload if you have removed the bearing race even if you plan on reusing the same race .... just saying
Last edited by Xlr8r13; Aug 5, 2019 at 08:33 AM.
Reason: Left something out
Feb 17, 2014 | 07:14 PM
I distinctly remember the snap ring having no issue on either side when I pulled them off.
