knock in top end/ valve clearance??
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knock in top end/ valve clearance??
Hey all today I did some work on my truck and pulled the valve cover and was going to attempt to change my valve seal, well I pulled the head bolts and made spacers to bolt it back down to put compressed air to hold the cylinder up well it didn't hold pressure so I pulled out and bolted everything back up. I also added the LC spiral adapter to my weber today but when I got everything back togethwr and started her up she had a pretty bad knock in the top end coming from the valves I'm guessing could this.be that my valve clearance is off now making it sound like that or what I didn't ajust the valves at all so any info would be great and it did not sound like this at all before I did this job thanks
1982 Toyota pickup 4x4
1982 Toyota pickup 4x4
#2
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You pulled the head bolts?...
If you overtightened the valve cover bolts, the rocker arms may be hitting the top of the valve cover. They don't need to be very tight at all.
If you overtightened the valve cover bolts, the rocker arms may be hitting the top of the valve cover. They don't need to be very tight at all.
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Yeah you have to pull the head bolts to get the rocker arm assembly off so I made spacers to bolts the head back down to try and change the valve seals by pitting compressed air in the spark plug hole well it didn't hold pressure so I just bolted everything back up now it has a valve knock its in the top end for sure I'm just trying to find out what this is I guess I'm gonna try tomorrow and adjust the valves could that be the issue or what and like you said it mite be the cover to tight I don't know thanks for the help and any info will be great I hate this knock now
#4
FYI, the compressed air valve seal trick NEVER works on a 30+ year old truck. Typically the spring keepers are seized to the valve and impossible to remove on the truck or the valve seats are worn so it doesn't seal enough to hold the valve up with compressed air. IF you do manage to get the spring and old seal out then the chances of getting the new seal, spring and keepers back on without hearing the "clink" of the valve hitting your piston because you lost the compression that was holding it up are slim to none! Buy a head gasket and do it the right way.
As far as your knock, loosen the bolts on your valve cover. You most likely torqued it down too far and your rocker arms are tapping your valve cover.
As far as your knock, loosen the bolts on your valve cover. You most likely torqued it down too far and your rocker arms are tapping your valve cover.
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Well today I'm gonna warm the truck up and pull the valve cover and adjust the valves and I want pit the valve cover back on so tight and I will have an update thanks for the info
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Well I want to say thanks again everyone Yall are the best at knowing these ol yotas I let her warm up pulled the cover adjusted my valves to spec and just snugged the cover up and she is running like a dream now no oil leak or nothing and the new spiral adapter I put on for my weber is awesome thanks again everyone the yota rides on
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Ok so a new question again today I noticed when I started it it knocked in the top end for like three seconds and went away and it does it if I turn it off and wait 16 minutes and start it again it does it again for just a second then runs fine. It sounds like when you change your oil and you start it for the first time till the oil circulates then goes away, it hasn't done this before so I'm hoping it don't have anything to do with when I tried to change the seals, what do you guys think this is and is all that bad or what I mean it is 32 years old but any info would be helpfull
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I have a Toyota oil filter and Toyota oil and changed it when I did that work to it I just hope this isn't something bad coming on, now I did do something different and put a quart of Lucas in it but I don't think that would be the reason but I have no clue
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