ArrizX

http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/1283209289.html

I'm looking to get that bad boy to put a D44 front and Corp 14 FF rear w/ 4.10s and 38"x15.50" Dick Cepek tires on.

Now when getting something like that that needs work, what do I need to watch out for? How tough is it to get these running(I know thats vague, but im a Jeep guy not a Yota guy.......)? Are the heads easily blown on this particular model?

Anything I need to look for in particular?

Plumbrbob

if its the 20r motor is a beast and loves to keep on ticking but if its the original motor it may be tired youll find a lack in power tryin to turn 38's on 4.10 with a tired 20r

if its a early 22r thats been swapped in thats a peice of poo and loves to quit

HG are cake I can swap mine out in a couple hours

it says 5speed so i assume they tossed the crappy L52 tranny

check the inside frame right behind the cab for rust common failure poin

other than that what else is there?

old suspension

electrical

cab

interoir

1979 is a basic truck i should know i own one

good luck man

ArrizX

Hey man thanks great things to know. Drop is on the passenger side in the front right?

So its a modded 5 speed from an auto....... is that something to watch out for? I guess done right it wont matter and I gotta look into it.

Only thing I worry about witht he HG is the fact if run long with it blown it can warp the head and ruin the entire block.


How do I differentiate the 20r from the 22r?

Plumbrbob

yup passenger drop

toyota autos shift ratios suck IMO nothing to watch out for on install pretty simple swap just look to see how they mounted the crossmember the L-series tranny was shorter than the other styles of trans.

If you ran it with a blown HG and it got real hot I would suspect the alum.head is warped the block should be good unless it got really really hot.

You may be wanting to go 4.3 or 5.7 swap if the motor is toast it will compliment your d44 and 14 bolt nicely stock 20r came out with 90hp

there is a sticker on the valve cover 20r or 22r if that is missing look at the on the side of the block on the driver side by the motor mount towards the front it should be stamped 22r or 20r.

but if it has a 22r stamped on the block and a 20r sticker on the valve cover you could have a hybrid motor a 20r/22r combo you can tell by the 22r block stamp and round intake holes on the head (20r) the 22r has sqaure intake holes on the head.

ArrizX

Sounds like this truck is a possible total cluster ...

I wonder if it would be worth it for a non runner just to work on and swap in other engine and such later. I really want a runner to go beat up before winter... and have this as a winter project.


So these did not come with a standard transmission? What makes you think its been swapped?

83

The early 22R were crap? Really? Didn't know that. L52 IS a 5 speed, and 79's didn't come with 5 speeds. Did you mean to say they tossed in the L52 tranny?

Auto trannies are not common on these trucks, not sure where you're getting the idea that it could be an auto from. Plus if someone says 5 speed, it means manual. Every time.

That ad says nothing what-so-ever about the truck. Call and find out what the deal is. It looks to me like probably everything mechanical could need to be replaced. If that's the case, you better not pay more than $500. You can find these trucks running, and in decent shape, for $1-2,000. If it needs an engine, unless you're rebuilding it yourself, you're going to spend that much on just the engine. The early 5 speeds were crap, so I'd find out if it's an L series tranny or a later model. Study up! You'll learn it all soon enough if you buy it...

Toyotas are so much more mechanically sound than Jeeps. But a '79 will have issues, and will be a money pit. But they are awesome trucks and are easy to work on.

Not trying to talk you out of it, but you've got to go into something like this with your eyes open. For what I've put into my '83, just to get it in good running condition for road trips etc., I could have bought a used Tacoma. But that's not what I want. My truck is worth it to me, BUT, I could have found one in way better shape for the same price and not had to put all this extra work and money into it.

The 22R is an awesome engine. Underpowered but goes forever, if treated right. Same with 20R's, they just have even less power. A '79 willl have a 20R unless somebody swapped a later model engine in. It will be a 20R and a 4 speed if it's been un touched, but since it says 5 speed, obviously somebody swapped some stuff. Give the guy a call, go check it out, find out the deal.

Good luck! Welcome to Yotatech!

refried

looks like a nice parts truck. If it spent most of it's life on that side of the pass rust wouldn't be a problem, It might be a good floor donor for my truck but there's several around here that are just as good and I wouldn't have drive 200 miles to get, They just wont die.

ArrizX

Interesting stuff, thanks guys I guess I just have to call now.

From the sounds of it this might not be worth getting.

Plumbrbob

ok sorry I meant L43 a 79 4 speed

L52 is a 5 speed that came out of a 1983

I meant to explain if they swapped in a G series or later model tranny they are longer and require crossmember mounting modification, make sure they did a decent job

The ad specified $250 I would say thats a good deal if the frame and cab not rotten with cancer you can sell the SFA for around that much and start with a free truck to begin your d44 and 14 bolt conversion.

And yes the early dome top piston 81-84 is a crap 22r in comparison to its better brother the flat top piston 85-95 22R/RE. You can rev a late block much higher than a early block.

BUT i can rev my 20r/22r hybrid far higher than a 85-95 22r would ever dream and my little hybrid 4 banger does well enough to clean my 36" TSL lugs



I say go for it if you plan on replacing everything you will replace everything anyways I thought i was set with my 79 and it had 33's a running motor and a locked up rear
I WAS WRONG

I am running differnet tires, drivelines, doors, fenders, suspension, shocks, front and rear axles, motor, gears, transfer, and transmission the only thing left on my truck that is original from when i bought it is the cab and frame NO JOKE!

CL AD 2 years ago:



TODAY

ArrizX

Whats the SFA? Yota thing?

slacker

iTrader: (1)

SFA= solid front axle .



.

ArrizX

Oh.. yeah good point Toyota people want those. Hell my friend wants one but he sold his that had IFS.

Plumbrbob

yup solid front axle

they go for $250 to $500 complete hub to hub around here

Scooby098

yah around here its 350 for a complete front and back.